Replacing 1980's Heater Element

[Steve19]

I moved into a house with an '80's style hot tub. It had no heat, and I traced the problem to a shorted heater. I like the tub, and the older electro-mechanical control box seems rock solid even if it doesn't have the features of today's digital controls. Unfortunately, the heater does not seem to screw in and out. Attached is a picture of the end of it. There are no screws and the end does not seem to rotate. It's like the legendary sword in the stone. There is no pulling it out. Anybody have a suggestion, and do they even make elements like this anymore? For what it's worth, the brand was Fountain Valley Spas, and the control box was a "Len Gordon" type -- Model FF-30-1AL. I was hoping to find a $50 element somewhere. Not sure I would want to try to adapt a modern tube-style element. The pump is below the current element, and there is very little room to maneuver.

[Cusser]

I have a 1988 CalSpa.  Mine uses a screw in element (screws into a stainless steel housing), very much like one in a home water heater, but doesn't look that much different from yours.

If mine - figuring nothing to lose - I would try unscrewing the plastic plug on the end, the big white hex.  To me, it looks like the element is simply epoxied into a plastic cap that was drilled out to fit.  Then improvise from there with a new element and new hex plug (likely Home Depot stocks both). 

These manufacturers typically used readily-available stuff back then.  On mine, my daughter recommended I cut (with a hole saw) into the inner plastic lining of the spa so I could unscrew the element, shove it sideways into that hole, then pull it out without taking apart the whole stainless steel assembly and potential leaks.  I removed the safety electrical box as that was simply epoxied on, and was leak-prone.

[Dr. Spa]

DON'T TRY TO UNSCREW the plastic plug on the end. It doesn't unscrew as it's glued in.

[Cusser]

If that white hex won't unscrew, and the element itself won't unscrew, and a new assembly is not available, I think I'd make my own assembly myself (or have a repairman/plumber make one).  What fitting is on the end not shown in the photo?  The black fitting is readily available, so is the white PVC stuff.

I'd make a new fitting where the element could be R&R'd readily if mine.  Or cut off the hex plug and fit something onto there with a place for the element to screw into.  There's ALWAYS a way.

[Dr. Spa]

The brass "nut" WILL unscrew...it just takes some effort after all these years. A replacement can be found here;

http://www.spadepot.com/Screwplug-Heater-Elements-C710.aspx

 

PEOPLE! PLEASE do not post advise if you don't know the actual correct answer. There are plenty of professionals here that DO, and the advise you post could very well not only be wrong, but also DANGEROUS!

[Cusser]

Try a 1/2" drive deep socket to remove that element.  Don't worry if you break the tabs, the element is broken already, and you already have a photo of it intact.

On my spa and water heater, the size is 1.5 inches; the cheapie 1.5 inch sockets at hardware stores are not as strong as one might think, why I advise the correct size deep socket for these, under $10 at places like auto parts stores; I recommend 6-point socket for this, not 12-point.