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Jandy Lrz Heater Issue-Could Use Some Help Please!


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Hello! Sorry for the lengthy description that follows.

Suddenly my 2 year old heater says: Fault Fuse link/field. It will not heat. The red heat light will not go on for either the pool or the spa.

Last year this happened and I changed the fusible link and it worked fine after that. I tried that again first and it didn't work.

I then followed the trouble shooting guide/flow chart with my volt meter. A,B,1,2, & 3 all were fine. (power supply & Transformer)

Then it took me to test point 4 & 5 (water pressure switch). There were proper volts there.

Next were points 6 & 7 (lopress fuse link). 6 had no volts (orange wire) but 7 did (blue wire).

Next were 8 & 9 (highpressure limit). Neither had volts. I replaced both high limit switches completely. This did not help.

A side issue was BOTH switches were in the outbound flow side. The instructions said to place the 108* red dot switch in the inlet side, so I moved it there. I then installed the 126* switch in the outlet side in the tube furthest from the heater, out of the two possible tubes to screw it into.

At points 10 & 11 (ignition control) I got no volts. When I unplug one of the red power wires in to the left side of the ignition control and plug it back in, the red diagnostic light flashes once.

When I test on the right side an open spot for a connector to plug into, I do get voltage, but quite low.

I did NOT get volts at test point C (coming from the ignition control), but I DID get volts from D (coming from the power supply).

SO I'm thinking it may be the ignition control, the power interface board (universal controller power interface), or maybe both?

It seems like too many points on the power board have issues:6,8,9,10 & 11 (on the ignition control but connected to the power board).

I'm handy and can replace either easily, but I don't want to buy both if 1 is not needed, and I don't want to call a pool guy because they're $180 to show up, they'll upcharge the part by 100%, and then charge another $180 (possibly) to install the new part once they get it.

Any one have any idea to help? I'd appreciate it from those in the know on here!

Thanks!

Ron

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Does it have a fusible link/rollout sensor? Either the ignition control is bad, ignitor, or something in the safety circuit is telling it to not heat. If your fusible link is bad, it either prematurely failed or it'a time to clean out your heat exchanger.

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Thanks for the reply.

I replaced the fusible link.

How can I tell if it's the ignitor OR the ignition control?

You don't think it's the power board due to all of those no voltage test points?

Any tips on how to further narrow this down would be appreciated!

Edited: I see how to get to the heat exchanger by taking off the top parts.

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So as long as your safety circuit is completing and it's sending 24v to the ignition control module, it should be trying to heat. I'd also test the resistance of your hot surface ignitor, and if it is sending 24v up to the ICM (ignition control module), when you tell it to heat it should also be opening up the gas valve on one leg for flame rectification. ICM's USUALLY do not go bad in two years, so my gut would be to point towards the power control interface board (big board all safety sensors go back to) or the HSI being bad. IF the hot surface ignitor is in fact bad already, there may be a chance your air to fuel ratio is too lean and it's burning hotter than it should. This would be tested with a manometer on the gas valve. I'm on a phone and wold give you exact points to test voltage for, but I'm lazy and that'll have to wait til later tonight lol

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Did you say that you replaced this part "Next were points 6 & 7 (lopress fuse link). 6 had no volts (orange wire) but 7 did (blue wire)."

For diagnostics, most folks use a set of jumpers to detect a defective sensor. You can bypass all the safety switches to see if one of them is the culprit.

I don't think the HSI uses 24V, I think it is typically 120VAC or 240VAC...so, be careful with that one. Usually, you can see the HSI glow. If it does, its good. If see a gap in the middle of it, it is bad.

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Did you say that you replaced this part "Next were points 6 & 7 (lopress fuse link). 6 had no volts (orange wire) but 7 did (blue wire)."

For diagnostics, most folks use a set of jumpers to detect a defective sensor. You can bypass all the safety switches to see if one of them is the culprit.

I don't think the HSI uses 24V, I think it is typically 120VAC or 240VAC...so, be careful with that one. Usually, you can see the HSI glow. If it does, its good. If see a gap in the middle of it, it is bad.

I did not replace the lopress fuse link as the troubleshooting directions did not say to. I followed the flow chart and volt meter test spots as per the troubleshooting instructions for the results in my original post.

As it sits now, when I call for heat nothing happens and the display shows the fault-fuselink/field still.. NOTHING else, no sounds, nothing.

I'd appreciate any tips!

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So as long as your safety circuit is completing and it's sending 24v to the ignition control module, it should be trying to heat. I'd also test the resistance of your hot surface ignitor, and if it is sending 24v up to the ICM (ignition control module), when you tell it to heat it should also be opening up the gas valve on one leg for flame rectification. ICM's USUALLY do not go bad in two years, so my gut would be to point towards the power control interface board (big board all safety sensors go back to) or the HSI being bad. IF the hot surface ignitor is in fact bad already, there may be a chance your air to fuel ratio is too lean and it's burning hotter than it should. This would be tested with a manometer on the gas valve. I'm on a phone and wold give you exact points to test voltage for, but I'm lazy and that'll have to wait til later tonight lol

I'd appreciate ANY and all help. I'd rather not call a pool guy if possible.

The ignitor has power going to it, but not coming out of it. But as I mentioned, when I call for heat, NOTHING happens in the unit. I just have that fault displayed. It's like the heater is dead right now.

Ron

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OK you've told me the ignitor has power going through it but not out of it.. that makes no sense. If it's sending it the 120v/240 but not igniting, then you have a bad ignitor... which I covered by telling you to test the resistance of it. Put your leads on the two wires from the ignitor with the power to the heater off, and you should be getting 30-50 ohms. This number varies between manufacturers, but if you'received getting an open circuit - boom, you found the issue. Or take the two nuts holding the ignitor in off, put some gloves on, and ensure the heater has a call for heat.. if the ICM is truly sending it voltage, it will begin to look cherry red from the extreme heat it is generating. Turn it off quickly before it gets too hot.

I don't like jandy heaters personally, so that's why I don't bother to memorize the fine details with them.

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So I tested across the ignitor and I DID in fact get about 50-60 ohms with the heater off. Does that mean the ignitor is good?
So where does that leave me? Replace the Power Controller board?
What else would explain no volts for the limit sensors ?

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I discovered a 2nd fusible link in the top of the unit. Could THAT ONE be causing this?? Although I did get a voltage reading at the power board from one of the wires coming from that (not the other one though), so I guess it's still good?

The instructions say to look under and see if there is a glow from the ignitor. I did not see this fyi.

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Oooh, yes - I forgot on some of those models there's a spare high limit/link under or near the exhaust vent.. I got stumped one time by this well. Right now it's sounding like a board or that sensor, but I can't be there to diagnose it with you and am only working on the information you'requested giving me so take that with a grain of salt

Your ignitor sounds good.

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Yes, thank you for the help regardless..

Well I ordered the fusible link, ignitor, power board and ignition control module. i ]'ll just return what I don't need. Still way cheaper than having the pool people come out. They want between $140-180 just to show up for the hour, and that's before they'd rape me on the parts.

I'll throw in the fusible link ($10) regardless and then I'll try the power board. Hopefully that's as far as I'll need to go.

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UPDATE!!


So I received and installed the upper fusible link and without closing the front panel I turned the heater on. She fired!! I waited 1-2 min & then started to put the front panel back on. It gave me a problem going back on and I felt like there was a lot of heat being generated. I'm not sure if this is normal or not, but I lightly pounded on the top of the front panel to get it down all the way and on the 3rd pound the heater conked out again.


I doubt my pounding did that, so then I assume she was possibly just getting too hot in there based on the heat I felt and the fact that the fuse link blew again (or I got that fault again).

Yesterday I had removed the top to expose the heat exchanger and it was 99% clean and clear.


Any suggestions at this point? I feel like I'm close to solving this and it's something simple, but I don't know what the answer is.


Thanks a million...AGAIN!!


Ron

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UPDATE:

I figure this may help others out with the same issue.

So I ended up having a pool company come out. I figured my problem was something simple that I just couldn't figure out after all of the trouble shooting I did based on tips here and from the Jandy manual.

The tech found my upper fusible link was bad, which I figured. I just wasn't sure why it would go bad again. he said that Jandy had a number of complaints about this in the past so the made a better made fusiblelink for the upper, AND one with a higher trip temperature! (244* vs. 155*-don't quote me exactly on those numbers)

He had the higher temp fusible link on his truck so he threw it in and VOILA, the heater is fixed!!! He checked with a mirror under the burners, down by the heat exchanger, etc and said it looked great!

The problem is that NO WHERE in the Jandy manuals in print or online made ANY mention of this upgraded part! Had it been listed I'd have fixed the damn heater myself in 10 minutes!!! Uggh!

Ron

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