Jump to content

Hotspring Vanguard Heater Problem


erabago

Recommended Posts

He ya'll, its my first post altough i've been following the forum for a few years now.

I have A HOTSPRING VANGUARD, serial VV3M2392, which I bought used, I'm not sure what year is it, and I have been using it for maybe 18 months, but recently it began to shut off itself more often, a message on the screen says "protection mode" or something like that because is in spanish, and says to check filters for cleanliness, to reset main switch or to call service. At first I fixed it temporarily by cleanning filters more often, but then I began to shut down more and more often.

on the manual says that when spa does not heat, green logo and blue logo blinking only two probable causes can be: Integrated pressure switch open or circulation pump overheating, since filters are clean, I would think the pressure switch is not working properly. I removed the filter from the circulation pump to be sure and still have same problem

I live down in Mexico right now and its not easy to get proper spa service here, I have a friend that was helping me, but he has not answer for quite a few weeks now, he told me to first change the temperature sensors on the heater, there's two, one for the high limit and one for control, and to try this before changing the whole heater. I sent him money for the sensors but he still has not send them to me, its been 8 weeks since that and the spa its losing the best season for use.

Since its not easy either to get parts over here, I took the heater off the spa this morning and I am checking it on my work table for cleanliness and to see if I can take it apart to change or clean more thoroughly.

From what I've read, I think the pressure switch its not working properly, I'm trying everything before having to replace the whole heater which I think its about 400 bucks and I have to get someone to bring it down to me here in Mexico.

Can the pressure switch be replaced?, How can I test it? or can it be jumped? I saw some replacement heaters that doesnt have pressure switch and come with a jumper.

Can the temperature sensors do this?

BTW I tried to remove the pressure switch from the heater and broke it from the thread, I think I can fix this with some glue but may be I should just replace the whole heater.

I forgot to tell that the circuit breaker for the heater some times tripped its the 30 amp I think.

Please Advice

Eugene

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks PreservedSwine for your reply, at the beginning of the problem, I could solve it for a few days with cleaning or changing the filter of the circ pump, then even without a filter the problem persists, I've reading a lot about it and will make individual tests of the thermistors and pressure switch with an ohm meter.

Its not like every time its the same error, sometimes just the green light blinks, sometimes the 30 amp braker of the heater trips, but most of the time goes to protection mode in which blue and green light blink, if you leave it like alone, ocasionally will heat again and the go to the error again.

please advice... I'm losing the best of the season... LOL

Eugene

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The issues are separate.

Tripping of the 30 Amp breaker is not related to tripping the high limit (going into protection mode). The heater is on a completely different circuit, and the two types of failres are unrelated as well. One is simply a temp sensor being out of range, the other is electrical leakage leading to a tripping breaker.

Let's tackle them one at a time.

First, how is the circ pump flow?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks again for the reply, I'm putting everything together right now to test again, the circ pump flow looks ok when watched at the water feature, before when filters were clogged, I used to put my finger in the water feature outlet and it will go into protection mode inmediatedly, that's how I know the flow now looks normal. I'm creating a photobucket account to upload some pictures.

Will be helpful to know what other tests I can do to corroborate which item is causing the problem.

THX

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, here is what I've done today so far:

1.- put everything together and put glue on the pressure switch

2.- clean pressure switch and thermistors, tested thermistors and both came 11.3 and 11.4 K Ohm, pressure switch was a little hard to press but gives 0 Ohm reading (close) when pushed.

3.- assemble everything, clean interior and fill it up again.

4.- Put power, inmediatedly goes to error ready and power leds blinking

5.- then power off, jump pressure switch which BTW has a leak where the glue is.

6.- power on, everything works, heater turns on and starts heating, after about 10-13 min. goes to protection mode.

7.- reset again, everything works again, left it heating and left for work, i'll comeback later to check if it still heating.

Circ pump runs ok, or at least that's how it looks, on the water feature runs enough water, right now for testing without filter.

I was sure the pressure switch is the problem, but going into protection mode a few minutes later look that something else can be wrong. the jumper right now makes a difference at starup.

If also the pressure switch is wrong, can I buy it somehow? I looked part number on ebay with no luck, may I can adapt a different switch or bypass it with jumper, I also need to try to glue again to see if I can correct leaking, or maybe cancel this out with silicone and install it somewhere else?

THX

Eugene

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Went back and it went to protection Mode again, probably within same timeframe since water did not heat up at all. Reset GFCI again and it worked for about 10 minutes before it went to protection mode again in which ready logo turns and remains on, and power (blue) led is blinking, manual says heater high limit thermostat is tripping.

What do you recommend to do?

THX

Eugene

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, I've been reading more and from another post you recommended to shut off water feature, with that and the pressure switch jumped I got the heater to work at least has been working for more than two hours now, which before was very difficult to get that far.

i see now that I can get the pressure switch, but there is still the matter of the circ pump, I also read that might be clogged or something in it that's preventing the correct flow to pass through.

So tomorrow I will take the circ pump apart (if I can find something to close the hoses with) and will order a new pressure switch. If you have any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated

thx

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi, I've using it for a couple days now, but again the problem is back, after a few minutes 5-12, its goes to protection mode... water feature is off and pressure switch is jumped, today I receive the thermistor replacements, I will try that now but still need help and would be greatly appreciated.

THX

Eugene...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

update for today: replaced the two thermistors with new ones, watkins original, the problem was apparently fixed, but still the pressure switch is jumped since try to have a reading with the pump off and the with the circ pump on, and it doesn't close the circuit, so jumped, it worked for a few hours until reached temperature, but the next morning went to protection mode again.

It does have a hot spot on the middle, I don't have the pic yet, but its to hot to touch in the center of the heater, the edges are warm.

thx

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

PreservedSwine, I'm still looking forward to your comments, now I cant get it to work for longer than a minute when reseting, It goes to protection mode immediately, I still have the pressure switch jumped or it would go directly to blue light power led blinking, I know for sure the pressure switch doesn't work anymore, thats why I have it jumped, I took all the water off this morning so I can check all hoses to and from the circulation pump to see if there is any obstruction, since I'm testing without filter on the gray stand pipe.

Is there any way to test the circulation pump for correct flow or pressure? amp meter perhaps? looks to have good flow, but the error it sends its because the temperature difference between input and output of the heater is big, and this can be caused by low flow, isn't it?

I still have the water feature cancelled, but now it does not make any difference, my guess is that circ pump is failing but I'm not totally sure and don't want to buy it unless I'm sure.

your help would be greatly appreciated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are some things you just know from experience, that are difficult to explain on a troubleshooting forum. If the heater is indeed overheating, it will be VERY hot to the touch when it goes into protection mode. Is it VERY hot to the touch when it goes into protection mode? If so, there is a physical lack of water flow through the heater. If not, there is an electronic issue. Solving the problems are approached very differently, and I'm leaning on you to narrow it down.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Unfortunately, your content contains terms that we do not allow. Please edit your content to remove the highlighted words below.
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...