wastedthelight Posted November 18, 2014 Report Share Posted November 18, 2014 Brand: Sundance Model: Optima 850 After months I finally decided to get a new circulation pump since it's getting cold now. After installing the new circulation pump, the hot tub will turn on and heat up just fine and have no issues for 6 or 9 hours. After this time, I now get a SOLID FLO error. While most everyone says it's the Flow Switch, no one has posted a similar issue to mine. Everyone has said that within seconds or minutes of turning the hot tub on that they get the error. Mine will go for hours though, through multiple cycles (cycles are 12am, 6am, 12pm, 6pm). Could it still be the flow switch even though it operates fine for hours and then will consistently go to solid FLO? Once this happens, the panel is completely non responsive, I must turn the power off and back on to gain control to it again. I've never seen the exact time that the error comes back. I have turned it on around 6pm before and it's been fine when I checked it around 11pm but when I get up at 6:30, the error is back. I've also used it with all jets running and the error didn't come back at that time. Thanks everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spanky Posted November 19, 2014 Report Share Posted November 19, 2014 You mentioned that you changed the circulation pump. It's possible you may have some air trapped in the line which can cause the pump to cavitate and loose flow. Many models have an air bleeder line for this reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HomePC Posted November 21, 2014 Report Share Posted November 21, 2014 I was thinking along the same line. Sounds like the water flow pressure through the switch isn't consistent. I have a Sundance 850 series. My circ pump went out, during the cold weather. So until I get the new one back in place, I programmed my filter cycles to run 24/7. You could try the same to see if that stronger 2-speed jet pump keeps the FLO error from reoccurring. You could also try taking out the filter to see if the FLO goes away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wastedthelight Posted December 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2014 Is the gold screw on the top of this image the bleed valve? http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/71vuBttdtiL._SL1500_.jpg If so, I was looking at it and it was unscrewed a bit so I tightened it up. But other wise, just unscrew it all the way while the system is running and then tighten it again? Thanks for the reply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Spa Posted December 7, 2014 Report Share Posted December 7, 2014 That's a bonding lug (secondary grounding point) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wastedthelight Posted December 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2014 Thank you Dr. Spa! So I checked the flow switch with a multimeter. When the spa is off, i get no readings. When I turn it on, I get 0.00 and when I use sound mode, it does beep. So I take it that means the flow switch is good? Any chance it can be flaky? I'm going to pick up a new water hose and run water through the system as suggested in other posts to get rid of airlocks. I also removed the filter and solid FLO still happened. Seriously hope it's just an airlock, spent a lot of money on the spa and only used it a couple of times. I'm off work for 2 weeks so hoping to finally resolve this issue and enjoy some hot tub time! Thanks everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Spa Posted December 21, 2014 Report Share Posted December 21, 2014 The flow switch sounds to be good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wastedthelight Posted December 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2014 Thanks. To confirm it's not a bad board, could I loop a single wire into the lume to make it think the flow switch is closed so if the FLO still appears, I know it has nothing to do with the flow switch or an airlock, but the issue has to be with the board? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Spa Posted December 21, 2014 Report Share Posted December 21, 2014 " When I turn it on, I get 0.00" The flow switch IS closed, and your reading confirms it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wastedthelight Posted January 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2015 Well, after putting off, yet again, I've come back to working on the hot tub. So here's where I'm at. - I drained the tub and cleaned the build up off of the flow switch. - Bought new filters - Filled it back up by placing the hose in the filter intake and let it heat up. The hot tub was on for hours while it heated up, as soon as it reached it's set temp, solid flo error. So, the flow switch is good and it errors shortly after reaching the set heat. Would this have anything to do with the relay or some other motherboard issue? Since it doesn't happen until it's heated up, I don't see this as being an airlock issue, correct me if I may be wrong. To recap, the original problem was that the circulation pump died. I replaced it and also removed the connector for the ozone, taking out the T and joining the hoses instead. I've seen a couple posts that said "move the black wire over one" but no one pointed on the photo what wire they were talking about. The people in the post figured it out and said it worked for them, but I'm clueless on which one, if this makes any sense. These links are photos of the board and layout https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bw73lMoov6qMeENjYVBuVnBtTmFfUEtxZjg1RHRDeWMybW1n/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bw73lMoov6qMdnhWVUtCc1BrUFFYdV9FVXBQR3NvNVNycUpn/view?usp=sharing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Spa Posted January 21, 2015 Report Share Posted January 21, 2015 When a pump is air locked, there's NO water flowing through it. You have water flowing. Hence, no air lock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wastedthelight Posted January 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2015 Right, just as I thought. Any suggestions? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PreservedSwine Posted January 21, 2015 Report Share Posted January 21, 2015 It's still a flow switch- it is still closed when it should be open. In other words, the flow switch is reporting there is flow when, there's no power to the pump. The logic on the circuit board recognizes this is a problem, and will display the error code. If you have a meter, disconect the flow switch, let the pump run for a few minutes, then turn it off, and OHM out the pressure switch. I should read O/L, but yours will have continuity. It would be best to test this when the failure occurs- as the flow switch may take some time to become physically stuck. Either that, or the pump is continuing to run when it shouldn't- a stuck relay, or two wires burned together, etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wastedthelight Posted January 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2015 It's a 24/7 circulation pump, there's always flow and the flow switch should always be closed as long as the hot tub is being supplied power, no? Maybe I'm confused. When the solid FLO came on last night, I unplugged the harness from the board and plugged it back in. I heard a couple clicks and looked at the screen and solid FLO came back after just a few seconds. During this time I also tested it and my tester displayed 0.00 when I tested it when it had the error. Thanks everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PreservedSwine Posted January 21, 2015 Report Share Posted January 21, 2015 Let's get a few basics- Have you ohm'd out the flow switch while it is showing, "FLO?" Is the circ pump energized and running while it is showing, "FLO?" You've mentioned several times, the error occurs right after it reaches temp. Is it possible a small dip switch was moved, or program jumper moved, that has the spa logic thinking it has a two speed jet pump, and not a 24/hour circ pump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wastedthelight Posted January 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2015 PreservedSwine, When the spa is off, flow switch tests as "1." (same as if I don't put the meter probes on anything). When the spa is turned on, it reads "0.00" so there is change between on and off. If the spa is on and the solid FLO comes on, if I remove the harness and the wires for the flow switch, the flow switch tests "0.00". The two pumps turn on when not in an error state, and the circulation pump is working as water is coming out into the spa (when not in error state) I checked the jumpers and while there is no documentation for the jumper settings that I could find, they have not changed since it last worked. No dip switches on this unit. You can see the board in the photos I linked to above. At one time, I did move the jumper to show the error log while trouble shooting the original flashing flow, when it turned out my circ pump went out. Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wastedthelight Posted January 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2015 Also, during the solid FLO error, the circ pump never stops, still keeps going but of course I'm locked out of all controls. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PreservedSwine Posted January 24, 2015 Report Share Posted January 24, 2015 Does low speed on the main pump also run while it's heating? (in addition to the 24 hr circ pump) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wastedthelight Posted January 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2015 Nope, control panel is locked out. Only thing running is the circ pump.thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wastedthelight Posted January 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 Every post I've seen with this EXACT issue, it's never been the flow switch (though few every report the issue has been resolved either way) It simply doesn't make sense to be the flow switch given the issues. However...I may have finally found the issue. The 24/hr circ pump is programmable as you stated. The time starts at midnight. The circ pump will run no matter what if it hasn't reached the set temperature. When you lose power for a long time, the settings reset, mine go back to 12am start time with a duration of 1hr vs 24hr. So if the tub reaches the set temp before 12am, it trys to shut itself off, but it's a constant on pump, it can't be shut off without turning off power to the spa, there for, it freaks out and gives a solid flo error. I found two other posts stating this same thing when they had the EXACT problem. To test, I turned on my hot tub at 2:50pm and the temp was 88, I set the target to 98. I also adjusted the circ pump time to start at 3pm instead of 12am, and changed the duration to 24hr. At 5pm, it reached 98 degree's shut off the heater but the circ pump continued to run and for once DID NOT give a solid flo as it previously did every time. At 6pm the scheduled cycle kicked on. This is all a great sign that the issue is a bug with the programming of the spa's board. Once it passes the first circ time, it's fine after that according to the other posts...we shall see!! So far so good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekmccrea Posted March 14, 2021 Report Share Posted March 14, 2021 I have the exact same problem. My FLO error comes on once the spa reaches temperature. I replaced the FLO s we itch twice. No luck. I also tried the trick above about setting the cycle to start before my spa reaches temp. Still no luck. I have a 99 Sundance Optima with a 2 cycle pump. Can I do a similar work around for a 2 cycle pump that someone uses with a 24 hour pump? I tried and it didn't work. I have searched for months and see no way to ID the problem. My pump runs fine and so does my heater. Any ideas?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted March 14, 2021 Report Share Posted March 14, 2021 Several ideas. First, start your own thread, this one is 6 years dead. Include a pic of your equipment area, circuit board, and wiring diagram. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle88 Posted April 27, 2021 Report Share Posted April 27, 2021 Hey all. I’m new here. I have a jacuzzi-470, older model with the 850 LCD. It’s been sitting for about 4 years as I got it for free from a friend. Had to fix a few leaks and get things going. I was told it was a brand new circuit board. So here’s where I’m at right now. as soon as I power on the spa, with new cold water-(55*). The jet pump 1 runs constant, and I have no power to TB2 which runs the circ pump. If I jump over and run the circ pump on the ozone ports, circ pump runs fine but throws the solid FLO code. I’ve cut the wires and bypassed the flow switch. But it throws FLO2 code. will a bad flow switch, not allow power to the circ pump? I’ve also tried unlocking my control panel, to make sure it’s not a programming issue, but with it being cold water, it should power no matter what, right? And I am unable to unlock the topside panel. So with everything wired properly, I have a COOL AND ICE code; but no power to my TB2 ports. Any help would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted April 28, 2021 Report Share Posted April 28, 2021 On 3/13/2021 at 8:37 PM, RDspaguy said: start your own thread, this one is 6 years dead. Include a pic of your equipment area, circuit board, and wiring diagram. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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