dmcclenny Posted October 10, 2014 Report Share Posted October 10, 2014 A couple years ago I found the information from Waterbear about bromine and used it for a new to us hot tub. Never having been the owner of a hot tub in the past, I didn't know what to expect. I didn't like the smell that lingered on my skin and hair after a shower, even though folks were saying that it didn't smell as much as chlorine. The bromine levels were all over the place. Fast forward to now and I'm getting ready to start up another new to us hot tub. The tub has been cleaned and decontaminated. I'm trying to decide between chlorine and bromine. I have most of what I need for bromine including the Taylor test kit but it sounds like chlorine might be easier and won't let people know where I spent time the evening before. The tub is plumbed for an ozonator but after reading the forums, it seems that it shouldn't be used with chlorine. I'm on the fence and need help deciding. Thanks in advance! Darlene Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PreservedSwine Posted October 10, 2014 Report Share Posted October 10, 2014 You can use an ozone generator and chlorine. Waterbear seems to prefer bromine, and that's great. He's probably forgotten more than I'll ever know in the water chemistry dept That being said, I happen to prefer sodium dichlor granulated chlorine- just keep an eye on your CYA level, and drain when it gets too high. Among other things, I can't stand the smell, and, "fizziness", of brominated water. I service roughly 2,000 spas/year, and seeing everything in the wild makes it an easy choice, imo. You can always switch back and forth if you're not happy with one or the other- unlike biguanides Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spanky Posted October 11, 2014 Report Share Posted October 11, 2014 Each sanitizer method has it's individual pro's and con's I used Waterbear's bromine method for years with NO problems whatsoever. I later changed to Dichlor/Bleach when we installed a swimming pool. Honestly never had any "smell" issues with either system. Loved the longer change interval of the chlorine but missed the low maintenance of the bromine floater. I believe I have found the ultimate solution, for me anyway. This season I installed a SWCG in the pool and a Chlormaker IL in the tub. Now I have the best of both worlds, long water life and "set it" and "forget it" convenience The only minor issue is that there is an obvious chlorine smell when the cover is first opened, but is gone in a couple of minuets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrwrick Posted October 14, 2014 Report Share Posted October 14, 2014 I am still waiting to solidify a water supply issue before filling, flushing, draining and refiling my older spa for use with either chlorine or bromine. It is in a vacation property, so it will neither be used nor maintained for 2 weeks at a time most of the time. I have used a dichlor system in another older tub that also goes a week or longer without attention with no problems between testing or water changes. I tend to lean toward converting that one to bromine and starting the other on bromine for the longer interval available without adding sanitizer. Given the draught conditions in California this year what I like about the chlorine method is the longer water interval between changes. Then, in comparison, what I like about the bromine system is the longer service life of bromine due to the slow addition with a floater and its relatively higher resistance to depletion with the higher temp of a spa. We will be dropping the temp setting to near 90 in both while away. Please give me the list of pros and cons for both chlorine (bleach as well as dichlor) and bromine. And another question that has occurred to me. Since we can switch between bromine and chlorine, can we choose to do just that to extend water life? What I am thinking of is starting with dichlor to sanitize a fresh water fill, using it while present to test and adjust, then switching to bromine for a period of dormancy when no one will be able to test or adjust water chemistry, then gong back to chlorine when present to use and test and adjust, and so forth over time, bridging the periods away with bromine while using chlorine for actual use periods. Sound like it makes sense or does it have pitfalls? As always, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spanky Posted October 15, 2014 Report Share Posted October 15, 2014 Switching fom chlorine to bromine is no problem, just add enough soduim bromode to build a bromine "Bank" , energize with some chlorine (bleach) or MPS then insert the floater. Going the other way is not as simple!! You have to drain to remove the Bromide. As for pro's & con's, its quite simple. Chlorine (Dichlor/Bleach) is hands down the most economical and tbe longest life between changes but requires constant maintenance. Leaving for more than a week is iffy at best. Even if you lower the temp, if your tub is not perfectly clean and has higher Chlorine Demand, your FC will reach 0!! Bromine floater can easily go 2 + weeks but the compsition of the tabs, binders etc.., increase the TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) in the water thus shortening the service life. I've only found 1 way of getting both long life & unattended maintenance - SWCG (Salt Water Chlorine Generator) such as Chlormaker. They're available in several models , inline & drape over. Looking at your situation I would recommend you consider that option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrwrick Posted October 15, 2014 Report Share Posted October 15, 2014 Thanks for the concise comparison. SWCG is an Interesting idea I was aware of but did not consider because I thought it was more than i needed and too exotic for my needs, but maybe not. Can you give me an idea of the pump compartment space needs and cost of a SWCG system for a 20 year old 350 gallon Hot Spring Classic F spa? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spanky Posted October 16, 2014 Report Share Posted October 16, 2014 Here's the website. I use the INLINE model but it requires modifying the internal plumbing. The "Drape Over" model doesn't require any modification. http://www.controlomatic.com/chlormaker.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrwrick Posted October 16, 2014 Report Share Posted October 16, 2014 Thanks Spanky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrwrick Posted October 16, 2014 Report Share Posted October 16, 2014 I have the small 24 hour circulation pump they refer to for the inline, so that is what i am looking at. Thanks AGAIN. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spanky Posted October 16, 2014 Report Share Posted October 16, 2014 If you have a 24hr circulation pump then you can use the IL version but you need to install it in the plumbing after the heater. It's not difficult. It took me an afternoon to do but l used solid PVC pipe with disconnect unions instesd of the hose/barb fittings supplied. The inline unit makes a nice clean installation. The Drape over works just as well, many fourm members use them. They don't need any modifications to the. plumbing but I personally don't like the chord and unit hanging over the side of the tub. If you don't have a 24hr. pump, then you have no option but since you have one then you have to decide based on how handy you (or whoever you can rope into helping) are with basic plumbing. Like I said, it.s not hard just takes some careful planning an a few trips to Home Depot / Lowes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrwrick Posted October 17, 2014 Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 Thanks Spanky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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