Master Spa Down East Dr Code, Wont Heat?

[spanoob9]

So i recently have taken over care of my spa and it hasn't treated with chlorine or anything in 2 months. When i first opened the cover it read OHH which means overheated, but the water was cool. The water looked pretty dirty, slightly greenish. I reset the breaker and it went into priming mode (PR). After that i set it to standard mode and 98 F. Then eventually it always goes to DR which means:

"Possible inadequate water, poor flow, or air bubbles are detected in the heater."

It says to check water level which was a little low, so i filled it to an inch above the filter like it recommends. Reset, still shows DR. Then it says if the water level is okay, make sure pumps have been primed (which i have no idea what that means).

So the error codes i've been getting are DR, LF, HFL, and OHH (when i get OHH the water is cool..). The spa is completely silent, won't heat, i don't hear any water flowing. The jets work when i turn them on.

Any help is greatly appreciated! What does it mean to make sure pumps have been primed??

[Spa God]

Great Tub,

Likely somthing simple...

It is flow related...

first determine if the circ pump is coming on and moving any water... there should be water coming out of the little return jet in the footwell

If the tub was really manky and full of algae it is likely one of the following...

1. Dirty filters... make sure nothing is in the tub that can get sucked into the filter hole and try running it without the filter

2. Low water level

3. something plugging the circ pump...

[htfc06]

Hi

I am having the exact same problem and was just about to start a new thread. Except mine has been running with no problems...... I am 100% its the circ pump either blocked or faulty

Can anyone please advise how to remove the circulation pump. on the discharge end there is a nut which I have undone with no problems. then on the inlet end there is some kind of clamp with a approx. 4" nut which I can not get my hand on to remove. Also adding to the problem is a timber support right in front of the pump.

please see pics, any help is very much appreciated.

[spanoob9]

Great Tub,

Likely somthing simple...

It is flow related...

first determine if the circ pump is coming on and moving any water... there should be water coming out of the little return jet in the footwell

If the tub was really manky and full of algae it is likely one of the following...

1. Dirty filters... make sure nothing is in the tub that can get sucked into the filter hole and try running it without the filter

2. Low water level

3. something plugging the circ pump...

I just cleaned the filter.. Water levels fine. I tested the water with test strips and I'm seeing next to 0 ppm chlorine. Will that cause the heater to fail?

If I try to run it without the filter and it still won't heat does that mean I need a new circ pump? I haven't tried that yet. But there's definitely no circulation happening. I remember seeing bubbles coming from the bottom whenit was working and right now iI see nothing.

[Dr. Spa]

No

No, it simply mean the problem in NOT the filter being clogged.

No bubbles doesn't necessarily indicate a water flow or circ pump problem. It's more likely to be an ozone injector problem.

[spanoob9]

No

No, it simply mean the problem in NOT the filter being clogged.

No bubbles doesn't necessarily indicate a water flow or circ pump problem. It's more likely to be an ozone injector problem.

Well I just ran it without the filter and got the Dr code. Is there anything else you can reccomend me to try?

[spanoob9]

Thanks for your help thus far.

Could you expain what it means to make sure the pumps have been primed? that is what the manual says to do with the dr diagnostic code.

There's a procedure in the manual to relieve pumps that have become air locked. Are you familiar with airlocking? Could that be what happened?

[spanoob9]

So I got a reply from customer service, figured I'd share in case anyone else has this problem.

Sounds like the circulation pump has either lost prime or seized up for some reason. It could be debris related. The codes Dr means that your heater may be dry, most likely the seized up pump. The OHH reading is overheat, the heater heats the water inside the heater tube. Since we dont have any flow through the heater it heats the water to 110 degrees rather quickly.

I would locate the circulation pump, turn off the unit, close your slice/gate valves, and open up the circulation pump at the unions. Look for debris, see if the impeller is jammed by something, etc. If you just recently refilled the spa, then it is most likely the circulation pump wasnt primed properly. You could turn off the unit, remove the filter and stand pipe completely. Stick garden hose down into filter bulkhead, and force feed water into through the plumbing. Let the water run for about 30 seconds, then power the spa on (water still running), Pr will appear, then press the WARM temperature button (this should activate the circ pump), turn off water about 20 seconds after circulation pump runs.

[htfc06]

Thanks for the update,

If only I could get the pump off...... !!!! I am waiting on a tool to arrive from amazon to try and remove the large platic nut.

So I got a reply from customer service, figured I'd share in case anyone else has this problem.

Sounds like the circulation pump has either lost prime or seized up for some reason. It could be debris related. The codes Dr means that your heater may be dry, most likely the seized up pump. The OHH reading is overheat, the heater heats the water inside the heater tube. Since we dont have any flow through the heater it heats the water to 110 degrees rather quickly.


I would locate the circulation pump, turn off the unit, close your slice/gate valves, and open up the circulation pump at the unions. Look for debris, see if the impeller is jammed by something, etc. If you just recently refilled the spa, then it is most likely the circulation pump wasnt primed properly. You could turn off the unit, remove the filter and stand pipe completely. Stick garden hose down into filter bulkhead, and force feed water into through the plumbing. Let the water run for about 30 seconds, then power the spa on (water still running), Pr will appear, then press the WARM temperature button (this should activate the circ pump), turn off water about 20 seconds after circulation pump runs.

[Spa God]

Tubs are always tight environments to work on, thats why us service techs have so many unique little tools for getting at things

This is flow related... if the unit was working and after refill its not determine if you have water flow... turn it on, put your hand in front of the return jet and see if there is pressure.

If not make sure circ pump is running... feel it it should be warm and vibrating...

If its running and no flow, try the garden hose down the filter hole trick, or alternatively loosen the top pipe on the circ pump while its running and bleed any air out...

If all else fails get the pump out, the best thing usually is those little ratcheting wrenches... worth their weight in gold ;-)

[htfc06]

Further update, got my pump off and attached to a seperate power supply and stil nothing.

ordered a new pump. lets hope that sorts it.

[htfc06]

New pump fitted and working like a dream...... =)

just to add. if like mine you are getting overheating code OHH but water is cool and also DR, LFL, HFL which are low flow codes its then a case of removing your side panel and feeling pump while priming and if its not running. next step is to remove the pump and connect it to a seperate power supply and if still nothing then it will be your circ pump thats dead. Bite the bullet and order a new one. Mine was a Laing E14.

Not sure what is wrong with my old pump, but as they cost so much ££££ I am going to see if a pump repair specialist can fix it for a decent price at least then I will have a spare should this happen again.

[spanoob9]

New pump fitted and working like a dream...... =)

just to add. if like mine you are getting overheating code OHH but water is cool and also DR, LFL, HFL which are low flow codes its then a case of removing your side panel and feeling pump while priming and if its not running. next step is to remove the pump and connect it to a seperate power supply and if still nothing then it will be your circ pump thats dead. Bite the bullet and order a new one. Mine was a Laing E14.

Not sure what is wrong with my old pump, but as they cost so much ££££ I am going to see if a pump repair specialist can fix it for a decent price at least then I will have a spare should this happen again.

Good to know. I had to leave my spa, shut it down and went on vacation lol.

How old was your spa? Mines a 2008 and I've never had any problems like this but obviously there's a certain point when parts need to be replaced.

My side panel is so damn hard to get off cuz I have it outside surrounded by a brick padio which is a little too close to the panels... So I wanted to avoid opening it up until I was 100% sure I had to. But I know what I need to do now, just hoping the pump is jammed with debris at this point and isn't dead.

[htfc06]

Mine was ruuning fine then we went away for a week came back and it wasnt running.

Its a 2009 model....... read the circ pumps can fail anywhere between 2-5 years,,,,,,, shocking really

Lol mine is surrounded by wood decking..... oh the joys..... but still saved big ££ if I had of called someone out to do it.

[spanoob9]

Further update, got my pump off and attached to a seperate power supply and stil nothing.

ordered a new pump. lets hope that sorts it.

Any tips for getting the pump off?

[htfc06]

if yours is the same as mine in the picture above and you have not drained the tub.

isolate the slice valve above the pump, isolate the quater turn valve to the left of the pump (Slightly hidden) and uncrew the union above the pump by hand (quite easy to do) then for the big union i ordered some of these from amazon and worked a treat.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00C3DU3GI/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Good luck.

[n1oty]

I am seeing high failure rates on those Master Spa/Down East circ pumps. I have one customer alone who has gone through four of them (the original and three replacements) in approximately four years. It was not chemistry related either. The dealer changed the first two under warranty. The last warranty replacement circ pump lasted approximately nine months, then died out of warranty. I asked Master if they would at least consider offering a new pump to the customer as a courtesy, but they refused.

I think the problem with these particular pumps is that they are a modification of the typical Laing Thermotech circ pumps. The motor amperage seems to comport with circ pumps in the 12 to 18 GPM range, yet master has enlarged the ports and installed an impeller to deliver approximately 25 GPM or so, as the Balboa packs require. Although any electric motor can theoretically be "over-driven", such a practice is not conducive to motor longevity. These motors also have PWM technology that senses amp draw to determine if the pump has primed. This additional technology is another potential failure point.

I generally advise those customers who are out of warranty to consider replacing these failed pumps with 1725 RPM, 48 frame circulation pumps of the appropriate voltage, similar to what Jacuzzi/Sundance is now using in their higher tier tubs. These are robust motors that are specifically designed to move the flows required of Balboa M7 technology packs. The only problem with trying this change on the Master/Down East tubs is that there may or may not be sufficient room for the larger body of the 48 frame circ pumps, depending on the specific model of tub. If you have the room for the change though, avoid these Master/Down East circ pumps like the plague.

John

[spanoob9]

if yours is the same as mine in the picture above and you have not drained the tub.

isolate the slice valve above the pump, isolate the quater turn valve to the left of the pump (Slightly hidden) and uncrew the union above the pump by hand (quite easy to do) then for the big union i ordered some of these from amazon and worked a treat.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00C3DU3GI/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Good luck.

Was it just the one slice valve above the circ pump you closed? I'm trying to get the pump off without draining the spa, i closed the slice valve and when i loosened the top union water came pouring out and i quickly re-tightened it... Were there any other valves that need to be closed?

Edit: found the other valve. Wasn't a slice valve just a red gate I turned 90deg to close it. Let's just say good thing my spa is outside cuz I had a lot of gushing water lol

[spanoob9]

So I got the circ pump off, I don't see anything jamming it up. Its connected to the circuit board and I don't really have any equipment to try and run it on another power source.. But when its in the spa I'm fairly certain its not running at all.

I plan to order a new circ pump tomorrow, but I want to be sure its necessary first.

I tried putting the pump back in and priming it, when I stuck the hose in the filter hole I got a lot of debrees (wood chips/lawn mulch) coming out of the return jet. Not sure if that's the sign of a blockage somewhere or from the circ pump not running for a while.

[htfc06]

I meant just put a plug on the pump and attach to local power source.

[amber-monalisa]

Signal Diagnosis on Display:

SIGNAL

SIGNIFICATION

REQUIRE OPERATION

No signal on display, and the power of spa is off

Do not use the control panel before the power is on. The setting will be reserved until the next power supply comes.

- -

Unknown on Temperature

Will show the current temperature after the pump work for 2 minutes.

0HH

“Over-heated”-Spa is shut down

.*one sensor has tested out the temperature by heater at 118°F/47.8℃

Do not input any water. Remove the cover and cool the water. Then press any key to restore the SPA. Please cut off the power supply and contact your distributor or service group if the SPA could not be restored.

0H5

“Over-heated”-Spa is shut down

.*one sensor has tested out the temperature by heater at 110°F /43.5℃.

Do not input any water. Remove the cover and cool the water. When the temperature reaches 107°/41.7°,the spa will be restored automatically. Please cut off the power supply and contact your distributor or service group if the SPA could not be restored.

5nA

Spa is shut down. *The “A” Jack in the sensor is not working.

If the problem still exists, please contact your distributor or service group (This might temporarily appear when over-heating.

5nb

Spa is shut down. *The “B” Jack in the sensor is not working.

If the problem still exists, please contact your distributor or service group (This might temporarily appear when over-heating.

5n5

Unsteadiness on sensor. If this show up interactively with the temperature, it might be the temporary status. If it flashes, Spa is shut down.*

If the problem still exists, please contact your distributor or service group.

HFL

Detected that there exists noticeable differences on temperature sense. There exists the water flowing problem.

If the water level is normal, please assure all the pumps are working. If the problem still exists, please contact your distributor or service group.

LF

Continuous low flowing problem. (The fifth time within 24 hours for “HFL” signal) The heater is shut down, but other functions on SPA keep running.

The operation for this “HFL” signal. The heating will not be restored automatically, press any key to make it restore.

dr

There might exist the problems of water shortage, bad water flow or air bubble etc. The Spa will stop for 15 minutes.

If the water level is normal, please assure all the pumps are working. Press any key to make it restore. The SPA will be restored within 15 minutes. If the problem still exists, please contact your distributor or service group.

dry

Detected the water shortage on heater. (The third time for “dr” signal.)Spa is shut down.*

The operation for this “dry” signal. The SPA will not be restored automatically, press any key to make it restore.

1CE

Detected there exists some possible frozen status. Even the SPA is shut down, some equipment still requests to start for the anti-frozen protection.

Not need any operation. No matter what status the SPA is, all the equipments will be automatically activated. When the sensor tests the temperature has reached 45°F/7.2℃ or higher, the equipments will keep working for 4 minutes. Probably it requests spare sensor to prevent exceptional frozen status. It is greatly recommended to use the spare anti-frozen sensor under much colder atmosphere, please contact your distributor for more detail information.

For all reference if needed.