Coming Through Shock Process; Time To Turn On Salt Water System?

[damianhaarhoff]

Hi, We have a 20' above-ground Intex pool with a salt water system in Houston, Tx. About 2 weeks ago, we were filling it up for the first time and were almost to the top when we dumped 6 bags of salt in it... and then our breaker box crashed... which crashed our well... and we couldn't fill it up to the top. The pump outlet was not covered with water so we could not run it.

It took about a week for us to get the well and breaker box fixed. In the meantime, the pool water just sat there -- no pump, no chemicals, no nothing. After we got it fixed, we were able to fully fill the pool at that time, and turn the pump on. The pool at that time had started turning lightly green with slimey walls and what I suspected was the start of a tiny bit of black algae growing on the floor.

We were advised via another site to not start the salt water system yet, but rather to wait until our pool was through the needed shock process and our chemicals were balanced. So, we shocked it, per their suggestion, with clorine bleach -- one bottle a night, 2 nights in a row. The pool has looked great since that first bottle -- perfectly clear and blue. Our chlorine levels fell immediately after we added that first bottle of bleach, so that's why the other forum I was on had us add another container the next night. We also added 4 lbs. of expensive stabilizer -- all while keeping the salt water system off.

After that second time we added the bleach, raised the alkalinity, and added the conditioner, the pool numbers looked good via our test strips. However, the forum I was on (via another site) would not continue to help me through the shock process until I bought a fancier test kit. We went to Leslie's for this kit, and were shocked to see that it was $70 -- totally out of our budget right now. Leslie's said no problem, they test with that same kit so we could just bring our water to them. We did that, and everything tested perfectly at Leslie's with the exception of the ph being 7.1 -- not a huge problem to me, as I figured it would quickly go up with some swimmers. The pool remained clear, and the chlorine levels seemed to hold well for several days.

Those perfect numbers were on Saturday. Now, I just re-tested today (Monday). Our numbers are:

TH: 100

FC: 0/0

PH -- 7.2

TA -- 0

CA -- 0

I have so many questions I don't even know where to begin. We haven't added any chlorine to the pool since about 5 days ago when we were shocking. Now, it's at 0 -- do we start the salt water system now or go get more bleach to add in? Our CA is at 0, do I have to go buy more of that expensive stuff for the salt water system to hold good chlorine levels or is that only for straight chlorine pools? And does it sound like we were through the shock process enough to even be considering turning on the salt water system? And why does my alkalinity keep dropping? HELLLLLLP (pretty please!).

[waterbear]

To answer a few of your question, ANY outdoor pool running chlorine needs CYA to prevent loss from sunlight. Period. You need 50 to 80 ppm in your pool. I would shoot for 80 ppm. IF you nave not added any do so! If you have the test results are off, another reason to get a good test kit (I would recommend the Taylor K-2006 over the private label Leslie's version (which they do not carry in most of their stores--only online, the stores have their version of the lesser K-2005, which you do NOT want!.) or the repackaged TF-100 since you can get a REAL Taylor K-2006 from Amato Industries for $49.95 and shipping. Best investment you can make in your pool!

Second, don't worry about calcium in a vinyl pool (total hardness is a bogus measurement that is useless for pools). Your Calcium hardness is low if the TH is only 100 but that is a non issue. It is only an issue if the Calcium hardness is high since that can lead to scaling conditions. Strips only test total hardness.

Third, get bleach in there! You MUSt have chlorine in the pool at all times. Get your FC to about 4 ppm and then turn on the salt system. Be aware that Intex salt systems do not produce a lot of chlorine and cannot bring the pool up to proper level from 0 ppm! They also have a copper electrode to add copper to the water. NOT a good thing since copper turns hair green and can stain pool liners. It is an algaecide BUT if you test your water and maintain the chlorine and CYA you do not need it at all. The copper electrode can be disconnected and I would recommend that.

pH of 7.2-7.2 and a TA of 0 is IMPOSSIBLE.. We need some GOOD test results here to advise you. Bottom line.for a salt pool you want the TA around 60-80 or you will be constantly fighing pH rise and go through a lot of acid.

After that second time we added the bleach, raised the alkalinity, and added the conditioner, the pool numbers looked good via our test strips.

Those perfect numbers were on Saturday.

What were these so called 'perfect numbers' ?

Now, I just re-tested today (Monday). Our numbers are:

TH: 100

FC: 0/0

PH -- 7.2

TA -- 0

CA -- 0

AS I said abolve a pH of 7.2 and a TA of 0 is IMPOSSIBLE! Either you pH is MUCH LOWER than 7.2 and you are running the risk of damaging the liner or you are getting bogus test results from the strips (very likely).

IF you added baking soda (this is what alkalinity increaser is BTW, and conditioner (cyanuric acid or CYA, no CA) then they should not be testing 0ppm! You need a decent test kit and some trustable test results. Period! Get a good kit!