drobson2 Posted May 10, 2013 Report Share Posted May 10, 2013 Hi everyone, I have a 95 Hot Springs Soverign that recently stopped heating. I found the first problem to be a clogged filter. To be sure, I removed the filter completely overnight and checked it in the morning and all was fine. A few days later I went to get in it and found the dreaded blinking red light. The tub is completely dead and I have NO FLOW from the circulation pump so I don't think it is a limit switch issue. I did disconnect and test both limit switches anyway. I get 14 ohms on one a 4 on the other. Should they be zero, or is this OK? (I don't mind replacing while I have it all apart as they are getting old anyway). Now on to the circulation pump. In testing voltage, I have 120 volts coming into the control box. Inside the box are several (what I believe to be) relays. These are black modules (Potter & Brumfield manufacturer name on the side) about the size of a few stacked domino's. The one that feeds power to the circulation pump shows 120 volts across the black and white wires going to it, but on the output side going to the circ pump, I get nothing. So I'm thinking this is the problem, but I'm wondering if there is more to the story. There are two additional brown wires going to the unit and I don't know their purpose so I'm not sure if the relay is open and not sending voltage to the pump for a reason or not. One thing I did not do, but can, is to bridge the wires across the relay just to verify that sending voltage to the pump will turn it on. I'm not exactly sure what that would tell me other than the pump works however. Any help would be appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PreservedSwine Posted May 10, 2013 Report Share Posted May 10, 2013 If it's a 95 that still uses a flow switch, you just have a bad hi-limit thermistor. They should OHM out the same. There was a wiring recall way back that turned the circ pump on in case the high limit tripped, but it doesn't sound like yours has it. However, if you had the heater replaced in the past with a PDR heater (Power Down Reset), and there's no longer a flow switch, and you tested after the red light flashing, it's possible the heater had energized, and warmed up the high limit thermistor when you were OHMING it out,leading to the discrepancy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sman4444 Posted May 10, 2013 Report Share Posted May 10, 2013 Try removing the filter and reserting the breakers leave the filters out push the breakers back in and see if the jets work, if they do work then your filters are not clean enough. I had to clean my filters really well to get everything working again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drobson2 Posted May 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2013 Thanks guys, I have an update - I do believe it is limit switch problem. Now that the water has cooled off a bit, the ohm differences between the two switches are WAY different (9 and 49 ohms). I was able to bridge the wires at the relay to verify that the pump does work. With the pump on I was also able to verify that the flow switch ohm'd to 0 with the pump on. While I'm in there, I'm going to replace both switches, the hoses and the ozonator. I'll post an update after I get the new parts in! Thanks for the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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