Jasper44 Posted April 8, 2013 Report Share Posted April 8, 2013 I have a 2002 Tiger River Bengal spa. The spa is having a problem where the ready light flashes and then it stops heating. Unplugging it and plugging it back in will make it heat again, but eventually the ready light will begin flashing again and the heating will stop. I have replaced the 2 thermostat pieces and removed the filter so far so those aren't the issue. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PreservedSwine Posted April 17, 2013 Report Share Posted April 17, 2013 Iis the 24 hour circ pump working? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spokanespas Posted April 18, 2013 Report Share Posted April 18, 2013 The circulation pumps in these spas wear out - effectively decreasing the volume of water flow through the heater. This causes calcification on the surface of the heater element which builds up like plaque in an artery. The eventual water restriction causes a differential of temperature between the two temperature sensors and the computer shuts the heater off and turns on the fault indicator. You likely have a worn out circulation pump, calcified heater, or both. I have had some success with running "Jet Clean" or similar spa system flush product through the spa. This helps to break down some of the heater deposits and may get you going at least temporarily. If you end up having to replacing the heater, using a 4kW element instead of higher wattage alternative may prolong the life of the heater. BB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasper44 Posted April 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2013 Okay thanks. I will try the Jet Clean first. If that doesn't work, how do I go about figuring out if it's a worn out circulation pump or a heater issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spokanespas Posted April 20, 2013 Report Share Posted April 20, 2013 The circulation pump in these spas should produce at least 10GPM. To calculate the GPM you must capture the water from the discharge of the circ. pump after it exits the heater. Connect a vinyl tube from the discharge line of the heater and bring it up and over the edge of the spa. Use a one gallon jug - time how many seconds it takes to fill the jug. Divide the number 60 by the number of seconds it takes to fill the 1gal jug, this is the GPM of the circ pump. This and the test for the for the circ pump's GPM by itself require special knowledge and tools to prevent equipment damage. I recommend that you hire or contact a professional spa technician for further instruction. BB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasper44 Posted June 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2014 Okay, a year later, a few parts later, still a no go. Here's the deal again; The spa is hooked up via 115. It will heat to 100 degrees exactly every single time I unplug it and plug it back in then stop and the green light will flash. If I plug it in at 75, heats to 100. If I plug it in at 92, heats to 100. Ran jet clean. The thermistors have been replaced...twice. The circulation pump has been replaced. It has a new filter. The circuit board and heater relay board have been replaced, unrelated, but new anyway. Even had a spa tech come out and he said straight up, I'll be honest with you, I don't know. I could throw parts at it but I don't really want to because I don't know what's wrong with it. So he was no help. Basically the only thing that isn't new on this spa is the control panel and the heater. But from what I have read, if it was the control panel, it would just flash right when I plugged it in, not heat to 100 first, but I don't know. I've replaced everything myself, which is significantly cheaper (like 80% cheaper) than having a tech do it after parts markup and labor. I'm not out all that much all things considered, so I don't mind replacing the heater, $300 on backyard plus or the control panel, but I dont really want to do both just guessing. Does anyone have any idea which one could be the culprit, or whatever other voodoo could be going on with it? I really don't get it at this point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hottubdan Posted June 21, 2014 Report Share Posted June 21, 2014 A year later now. Spa Tech suggested you hire a pro. Had you done so, you probably would have spent less money and the problem would have been resolved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasper44 Posted June 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2014 Oh, umm, thanks for the rude and inaccurate response. I don't know what that was about. I guess I should apologize to you for draining my broken spa and now trying to get it fixed again. Also, I'm glad you read that one part where I wrote, "Even had a spa tech come out and he said straight up, I'll be honest with you, I don't know. I could throw parts at it but I don't really want to because I don't know what's wrong with it. So he was no help." Maybe I should have wrote "pro" instead of spa tech. Anything else you would like to be a *** about for no reason? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PreservedSwine Posted June 23, 2014 Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 The thermostat logic is in the control head on that model... But you don't want top throw one at it unless you're 100% sure it need replacement. Since you have an extra set of thermistors, unplug the *control thermistor only* from the IQ2020, and plug in the spare *without* installing the spare in the heater. OHM out the one that's still in the heater, but not plugged into the control box. This way, you can manipulate the temp of the water simply by placing the thermistor plugged into the IQ2020 control into a glass of water (at whatever temp you need during testing) while OHM-ing out the thermistor that's actually in the heater. This will reveal if the problem is a logic problem, mechanical, or a flow problem. In other words- have a glass of water at 100F, or 102, or 120... or whatever, and dip the thermistor into that water so the spa logic believes the temp of the water is THAT temp, until you get the green light to flash. You can see what the thermistor in the heater is actually reading when that green light flashes in this fashion, and this will reveal where the problem is, and what to do next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasper44 Posted June 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 Okay, I will give that a try when I can get to it. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasper44 Posted July 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2014 The thermostat logic is in the control head on that model... But you don't want top throw one at it unless you're 100% sure it need replacement. Since you have an extra set of thermistors, unplug the *control thermistor only* from the IQ2020, and plug in the spare *without* installing the spare in the heater. OHM out the one that's still in the heater, but not plugged into the control box. This way, you can manipulate the temp of the water simply by placing the thermistor plugged into the IQ2020 control into a glass of water (at whatever temp you need during testing) while OHM-ing out the thermistor that's actually in the heater. This will reveal if the problem is a logic problem, mechanical, or a flow problem. In other words- have a glass of water at 100F, or 102, or 120... or whatever, and dip the thermistor into that water so the spa logic believes the temp of the water is THAT temp, until you get the green light to flash. You can see what the thermistor in the heater is actually reading when that green light flashes in this fashion, and this will reveal where the problem is, and what to do next. Alright, so I did all of that and it was causing the ready light to flash so I went ahead and got a new control panel and all is well now. I don't quite get it because you would think if it was a faulty control panel then it would heat to say 101 and think it's at 104 or something but not freak out and turn off when the spa hits 100 because that's the hi limit thermistors job. But oh well, it works now so that is good enough for me. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tps777 Posted March 15, 2019 Report Share Posted March 15, 2019 When you say new control board are you talking about the logic board inside the spa or the control panel that you use to control the spa? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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