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Hello. I am new to this forum. I am a homeowner that installed an inground pool on my own. It is a 20x41 double roman with 8 ft deep end. I have 3 1.5 inch suction lines 2 from skimmer and 1 from spill over spa, and 4 1.5 inch returns 2 returns, 1 step return and 1 to spill over spa. . My puymp is a hayward 2 hp superpump and filter is a 24 inch sand filter. I plumbed all lines with 1.5 inch schedule 40 pvc. I also havbe a 140,000 btu hayward heat pump which is what sparked my problem. My heater is setting off error that there is to much pressure. I have called hayward twice and am getting 2 different responces. The last call I was told that the pump was not intended for 1.5 inch plumbing and there is to much pressure. The other guy told me 1.5 inch is fine. My question is would it be ok to convert everything above ground to 2 inch plumbing. If I do this I will need to get a new filter because it only has 1.5 inch fittings. I know downsizing to a 1.5 hp pump would be the easiest solution, but I like the flow especially to the spill over spa. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

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Downsize the pump. I would expect a 1 HP motor, impeller. seal set, and diffuser would do it. A 2 HP pump pushes more water than the system can handle with the plumbing that size. You'll need to run the system a little longer but you also be saving yourself substantially on the electricity the motor uses, even with the slightly extended on time.

Scott

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Plumbing is actually really important and significant. Just think of how things are going to work out right. You just have to ensure that you will get the proper components to go with you just so the support would be more intricate than ever.

A very important component, quite frankly. You should really take time and effort in devising the best method to work with you.

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This is a very common problem in new pool installs by non professionals. did you forget to install the HEATER bypas with control valve? Yes you did! plumb in a straight heater bypass with a control valve. regulate the flow to the heater, ,Mark the posistion of the bypass valve and tell everyon not to mess with this valve. The water coming out of the heater should be only 10 degrees hotter than the water going in. you adjust the pressure to the heatrer by watching the gauge on the filter. wide open is normal pressure to the filter; crank the bypass valve open closed untill the filter pressure drops 1 PSI. you now have estrablished the correct flow to the heater. "All" swimming pool residintial require a bypass in order to regulate the flow through the heater. Install the bypass.. look it up on line, common mistake Pool heaters because of thermostats, and governers, can only handel so much flow, otherwise you get " water slam" cold water rushing to meet a freshly opened governer. slamslam slam,sounds like it's going to fly apart. or full of rocks You forgot the bypass This is a very easy fix.

Plumb the return straight to the pool. Install a valve in the return line to the pool. Install the heater input on one side of the valve, Install the heater return on the oppisite side of the valve. use this valve to control the flow through your heater. You are done, there you have it. you can even turn the heater competly off if you desire. understand?

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In a Hayward heat pump, the high pressure error "HI" is due to high coolant pressure and not high water pressure (see manual). This error is usually caused by either low flow rate or high water termperature through the heater so having a bypass actually makes the problem worse. This can be caused by several factors, pump basket full of debris, dirty filter, incorrect valve settings. What is the current filter pressure? Have you tried to clean the filter?

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OK, my turn to learn something. The customer says he is getting too much pressure to the heat pump. A heater bypass rather than downsizing the pump, would be my suggestion. In the owners manual there should be a diagram for a heater bypass; "Required" if the Flow, GPM is above a certain number, An easy way to determin this, is to install a simple flo-meter on the line going to the heater. If you have a flo-meter, and a bypass valve installed, which is easy, and inexpensive, this eliminates any question of pressure or flo issues to the heater. Once you have determined that the flo rate through the heater is correct, anything else would be an issue with the heater itself. Am I wrong?

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Pool Clown is very likely correct in that the HI error is a problem with the coolant in the compressor.

My point about downsizing the pump is also valid in that the 24" sand filter is both only 1.5" internally and the velocity and volume of the water through a 2 HP Super Pump is too much. An external heater bypass and flow meter wouldn't be needed if this system were properly sized to begin with. Inch and a half pipes can't move enough water to overcome the the internal bypass of a heater or heat pump with a residential pool pump.

Scott

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Well lets do some (rough) math:

gpm = Gallons Per Minute

head loss = measurement of flow resistance due to restrictions from plumbing/internal system pressure

2HP Super Pump flow rate = 84gpm (that's assuming only 50ft of head loss in your system)

Max flow rate of S244T Hayward sand filter = 62gpm

Max flow rate of 1.5" pipe = 60gpm

sooooo, yeah. Downsize your pump! You aren't able to move water at the rate your system can handle, so you have to reduce your pumps output to meet what your pool can handle. For comparison:

1HP Super Pump flow rate = 54gpm (assuming the same head loss as before)

So you can go as low as a 1HP without fear of lossing the flow rate that you currently have. At the very least you should drop to a 1.5hp (64 gpm) but I doubt you will need even that much HP.

That all being said, I have no idea what your system looks like or how it's installed, so this is a rough estimate based soley on numbers pulled directly out of Zues's Head. I'm confident, though, that they are accurate enough to suit your purposes.

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