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Master Spa {Down East} Throwing Dr Code And Wont Prime


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I have a down east spa that has stopped heating. I thought this was due to a flow problem so I replaced the filter, drained the water and figured I'd start from scatch. When starting up the spa it goes through its start up functions and when it gets to the Pr function nothing happens. then the heat light comes on for about 30 seconds goes off and the dr code comes up. I took the filter out and tried again and the same thing happened . I was wondering if anyone could help me with this problem before I call a tech .This is the windsor model. Any help would be greatly appreciated .

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Does it incorporate a seperate circ pump, just for the heater?

I'm guessing yes as the heater always went off when the jets were running

That an indicator you have it wired 120v, not an indicator of a seperate pump. Do the jets come on "low speed" when the heat comes on, or does it heat in obscurity?

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Pretty sure The Down east uses Balboa system, and a circ pump.

DR means a flow issue. if water is moving through the retun jet then likely issues are dirty filters (try running with no filter and see if this helps), or a circ pump issue (likely debris in the pump head) take the head apart and see if it is clogged with hair or debris. this can happen if it is run with the filter not correctly seated.

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thanks I will take a look at the pump tomorrow if I can find it . My spa is sunken into my deck so it will take a bit to get to it . I had some filter issues in the past so hopefully that will be the problem thanks again I'll let you know how i make out.

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Pretty sure The Down east uses Balboa system, and a circ pump.

DR means a flow issue. if water is moving through the retun jet then likely issues are dirty filters (try running with no filter and see if this helps), or a circ pump issue (likely debris in the pump head) take the head apart and see if it is clogged with hair or debris. this can happen if it is run with the filter not correctly seated.

Yes my spa does have a Balboa system. I took the head of the circulation pump apart and found no debris and it seems to be spinning fine . So much for an easy fix . Is there anything else you think I could check ? Thanks in advance for any ideas.
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I too am experiencing the same issue with my Down East Exeter. It has the Balboa board 2008. I have determined that the circulation pump is not coming on at all and does usually run 24/7. I replaced the circulation pump (bought as new off ebay - didn't really look new but I installed it anyway). Still got the same problem. I checked across fuse F7 20A 250V and had no power. I am waiting for the hardware store to open to see if I can get a replacement.

I just noticed another fuse on the diagram that is marked F1 3A 250V. I'm going to go check for current across this fuse as well. I will report what I find out later.

Bill

It's now later........Replaced the fuse F1 and still now power across it and the circulation pump is still not coming on. If F1 has anything to do with the circ pump then a sensor or something is not allowing power to it. I went through start up and the unit cycled twice. Even the heater came on both times. The first time the heater shut off without a "dr" code. The second cycle I got the "dr" code after the heater tried to stay on. The circulation pump never came on. This makes me think that the two sensors located at either end of the heater have something to do with the circulation pump coming on. If this is the case then I have to assume it's the sensor on the right end of the heating tube because the circulation pump runs 24/7 and isn't dependent on the temp of the water to run but without the circ pump running the heater trips off. No circulation no heat. Also, the jets circulate the water in the tub but not through the filter. I wish I had a way of testing the circulation pump out of the unit to confirm if it's good are bad. I took the end off the motor and it's another circuit board. I'm stumped.

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I just checked the same fuse , it doesn't look right ( the glass is clouded so you can't see the element inside ) Could this be the problem ? It looks like I have the same board as you do Bill. On my way to the hardware store also I'll post results later

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after moving the dip switches, you have to power down then back up for the change to be recognized. the two m-7 sensors dont directly control the pump, they control whether the heater comes on, and stays on, or not. Check the voltage rating of your circ pump, and if one of the other pumps in the machine has the same rating, plug one of them into the circ receptacle on the board, this will verify if power is going out to the pump. If this runs ok, then the circ has a problem, they are tough to work on but it may be as simple as a capacitor change, or cleaning the stator and winding tunnel. SN codes are for the sensors on the heater tube.

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I just checked the same fuse , it doesn't look right ( the glass is clouded so you can't see the element inside ) Could this be the problem ? It looks like I have the same board as you do Bill. On my way to the hardware store also I'll post results later

My fuse was good. If I'm not mistaken this fuse is for the light.

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after moving the dip switches, you have to power down then back up for the change to be recognized. the two m-7 sensors dont directly control the pump, they control whether the heater comes on, and stays on, or not. Check the voltage rating of your circ pump, and if one of the other pumps in the machine has the same rating, plug one of them into the circ receptacle on the board, this will verify if power is going out to the pump. If this runs ok, then the circ has a problem, they are tough to work on but it may be as simple as a capacitor change, or cleaning the stator and winding tunnel. SN codes are for the sensors on the heater tube.

Thanks for the info!!

I'm going to have to read up some more because I don't know what are where the dip switches are. Seems like I did see something about them somewhere in the 4 days of reading I've been doing. Sure was glad to find this forum.

I'll check tomorrow to see if I have another motor with the same voltage that I can try the circuit out with. Sometimes I over look the obvious.

Can anyone confirm that the circ pump has a dry detection sensor built into it. I think that was part of the description of the pump I bought off ebay. If the thing will work, I got a heck of a good deal. If not, I got the shaft again.

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I located the the switch bank. I Turned # 9 off and back on, then turned the breaker back on. PR came up on the screen but the circ. pump still is not coming on. Both blower pumps worked so I unplugged blower #2 and plugged the circ. pump into this location, nothing happened. I then hit the switch for blower #2 and still no circ. pump. I then put everything back like it was and every thing works except the circ. pump.

I have yet to find anything marked m7, the sensors on the heater or marked sensor A and sensor B and seem to be working because the heater comes on and shuts off. I assume the heater shuts down because of lack of water flow.

I'm now thinking that the low water (dr.) sensor is located in the circulation pump itself and I am now the proud owner of two of these bad boys that don't sense or move water.

Guess it's time to open one of the 2 circ. pumps and see what I find there.

Thanks for all the input everyone! Have a great Memorial Day!

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I located the the switch bank. I Turned # 9 off and back on, then turned the breaker back on. PR came up on the screen but the circ. pump still is not coming on. Both blower pumps worked so I unplugged blower #2 and plugged the circ. pump into this location, nothing happened. I then hit the switch for blower #2 and still no circ. pump. I then put everything back like it was and every thing works except the circ. pump.

I have yet to find anything marked m7, the sensors on the heater or marked sensor A and sensor B and seem to be working because the heater comes on and shuts off. I assume the heater shuts down because of lack of water flow.

I'm now thinking that the low water (dr.) sensor is located in the circulation pump itself and I am now the proud owner of two of these bad boys that don't sense or move water.

Guess it's time to open one of the 2 circ. pumps and see what I find there.

Thanks for all the input everyone! Have a great Memorial Day!

Well Bill we seem to have the same problem I sure would like to know how you make out .
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I located the the switch bank. I Turned # 9 off and back on, then turned the breaker back on. PR came up on the screen but the circ. pump still is not coming on. Both blower pumps worked so I unplugged blower #2 and plugged the circ. pump into this location, nothing happened. I then hit the switch for blower #2 and still no circ. pump. I then put everything back like it was and every thing works except the circ. pump.

I have yet to find anything marked m7, the sensors on the heater or marked sensor A and sensor B and seem to be working because the heater comes on and shuts off. I assume the heater shuts down because of lack of water flow.

I'm now thinking that the low water (dr.) sensor is located in the circulation pump itself and I am now the proud owner of two of these bad boys that don't sense or move water.

Guess it's time to open one of the 2 circ. pumps and see what I find there.

Thanks for all the input everyone! Have a great Memorial Day!

Well Bill we seem to have the same problem I sure would like to know how you make out .

Yeah, I'm getting pretty upset with the whole situation. The closest Master Spa/Down East service tech is in Houston, TX. 100 miles away and they want $197.00 just to show up over here. I would much rather put that money towards parts if I could just find out where the dry code is coming from. No one seems to know. I am about ready to throw some Southern Engineering at it, get the water back to circulating through the filter and call it good. If I find out anything, I will sure let you know.

Bill

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