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Pump Issue ?


jeffr72

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I have a HS Jetsetter and when I power it on, the jets/pumps pulse. Full force for a second, then dies down to almost nothing for about a second. This 2 second cycle repeats regardless of jet settings. I removed the filters and nothing changed.

Anyone ever experienced this?

thanks in advance.

jeff

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What's the serial number?

Fist few things that come to mind- it's losing it's prime, possibly from a defective air intake check valve that uses a bleedline running to a jet pump intake using the vacuum created by the jet pump to open and close the valve. It looks like a Tee- with two 3/4 inch lines, and a small 1/8" line on one end.

Or... a low voltage due to an electrical run that too long, uses wire that's too small, or has a failure in the run, either a bad breaker or poor connection somewhere, where the voltage drops below the threshold that the jet pump relay will tolerate, causing the pump to intermittantly turn on/off.

Or... something is stuck in the impeller.

When the pump energizes, does it reach full power, or cycle off/onn before it reached full power?

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What's the serial number?

Fist few things that come to mind- it's losing it's prime, possibly from a defective air intake check valve that uses a bleedline running to a jet pump intake using the vacuum created by the jet pump to open and close the valve. It looks like a Tee- with two 3/4 inch lines, and a small 1/8" line on one end.

Or... a low voltage due to an electrical run that too long, uses wire that's too small, or has a failure in the run, either a bad breaker or poor connection somewhere, where the voltage drops below the threshold that the jet pump relay will tolerate, causing the pump to intermittantly turn on/off.

Or... something is stuck in the impeller.

When the pump energizes, does it reach full power, or cycle off/onn before it reached full power?

One more thing- did you put the caps back on after removing the filters to ensure no air is getting sucked down a standpipe?

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Serial Number is J2D1014 I believe it was purchased 11/02, I've owned it for 3 1/2 years.

I opened the panel and on the left side looks like the lines your talking about. That's where all the "noise" is.

I know the electrician that installed the tub, will ask him about the size of the wire. He's always been top notch so I expect it will be of decent size.

Not sure how to check the impeller.

When the pump energizes, it just about reaches full power, but spends more time building up pressure. My times are off a bit, probably a second-.and a half to cycle.

I tried with caps on and off. They are always completely submerged.

One thing to add. This problem began when the water level was low, flush with the top of the 4 neck jets. The water has been this low before without a problem.

thanks,

jeff

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It's never letting go of the starting capacitor.

If it's running 20 amp, 110v, check voltage with the heater energized at the main terminal block, then check voltage with the heater off (You might have to disconnect the heater if the water is too cold).

I suspect you're losing over roughly 10% line voltage. You should only be losing 2-3%

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The wire size is adequate.

Can you take voltage readings on the 20 amp 120v circuit at the terminal block while the pump is acting up? (should be terminals 2 and 4)

Have you tried adding a little water? Is the wier door getting hung up, and the pump is just sucking in air?

Also, as Dan suggested, try crimping the 1/8" air line on that little afc valve?

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Sorry for the slow reply.....hard to follow things on here with all of the spam. Yes, it's ok to run it like that. There is actually a retrofit part that replaces that air-intake valve which looks totally different. The new part is called a Hartford Loop and sells for around $40. In the new kit there is actually a plug included which blocks off that 1/8" line altogether.

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