Opinions On Temporary Location For Hot Tub

[superskid]

I just purchased a beachcomber 540 and am excited to have it in place before the cold winters of Northern Alberta hit. I am looking for some advice on how to get my yard ready for the install. I know exactly where I would like it to go permanently, but the desired location requires me to cut into my deck, make some modifications, and just a bunch of work that won't get done until the snow flies.

I do have a nice location picked out on my lawn where the stairs from my deck come down that would work as a good location to place it for the winter until I can move it in the spring. The lawn is a little slanted, and I am wondering what I should put down on the lawn keeping in mind it is a temporary location. I have 2 ideas in my head.

1.) I simply lay down 2x2 paving tiles and get the surface as level as possible by stacking them on the lower end. This would let me get it level to withing the height of the paving tiles and would be pretty quick.

2.) I have large sheets of the solid insulation foam. I was thinking I could lay that down and shave off sheets where needed to get a fairly level surface. Then on top of that I could either put down plywood or the same paving tiles.

Do either of these to methods make sense? If now what is recommended.

Thanks for the help, excited to finally be a spa owner and a part of the forum.

[Spa_Guru]

Never block a spa up, always give it full support all the way across the bottom, or you can destroy your tub.

Resist the urge to put the tub partially into a deck, all that does is make servicing it a total pain in the @$$.

[superskid]

I wasn't going to just block the tub up on the edges. Definitely full support across the bottom, different heights of paving stones would only be to level out the uneven ground.

[Dnepr Dave]

You could make a temporary pad with leveled out tamped gravel. Use treated wood around the gravel to keep it in place.

Dave

[gman]

I understand your desire not to invest time, money and labor to construct a temporary structure to support your new hot tub for a relatively short time, but... your tub needs to be placed on a solid, level, firm foundation that can structurally support its weight when full of water. If you don't place it on a structurally sound, level foundation, then your warranty will probably not cover any resulting damage of malfunction.

Depending on the size of the hot tub, a tub can weigh from 1,500 lbs to 5,000 lbs when full of water and people. I believe the Beachcomber 540 will weigh in the vicinity of about 3,500 lbs when fully loaded. The less solid and stable your foundation, the greater the chance for your tub to torque and twist, stressing the frame, supports, plumbing and acrylic layer. Personally, I would build the temporary structure just as soundly and securely as if it were to be the tub's permanent location. Check your local building and electrical codes for hot tub installation.

BTW, most decks conforming to local building codes for "normal" use (i.e., no hot tub) will not be adequate for supporting a hot tub containing 3,000 to 5,000 lbs of moving water in a 7' x 7' area. Therefore, unless the permanent location you've chosen was specifically constructed to support a hot tub, you will probably need to reinforce the deck joists and framing. Additional footings may even be necessary depending on the size of your beams.

You mention cutting into the deck. I can't tell from your post whether or not you intend to build the hot tub into the deck or whether you're cutting into the deck for some other purpose. If you intend to place the tub into the deck, be sure to design the area immediately surrounding all four sides of the tub with easily removable deck panels/sections so you can clear the area at least 3 feet from each side of the tub from any and all impediments that may block access to and removal of the tub side panels (for servicing).

My $0.02.

gman

[superskid]

I definitely don't plan on making the temporary location not as solid as the permanent spot. I am thinking if I lay down a level base of solid foam, then cover the complete area in paving stones I should have a solid base to put the tub on. The idea of an above grade gravel pad is tempting to as I can reuse all the gravel for its future location and just frame it in with pressure treated wood.

As for building it into the deck next year, there will definitely be removable access panels for service and plenty of room to work.

[Spa_Guru]

The best gravel to use as a base is referred to as 3/4 minus crushed rock, do not use gravel that is smooth, like pea gravel.

[Even Further]

Same as mentioned above.

Box in an area with treated wood, to frame, support and outline the base.

Lay gravel base (paver base or crushed granite).

Level and tamp it / compact the base.

Lay a EZpad over that.

[superskid]

Same as mentioned above.

Box in an area with treated wood, to frame, support and outline the base.

Lay gravel base (paver base or crushed granite).

Level and tamp it / compact the base.

Lay a EZpad over that.

Instead of an easy pad is there something else I can use? I was hoping to just put 2foot by 2foot pavers on top of the gravel. How thick should my gravel base be?

[Spa_Guru]

Same as mentioned above.

Box in an area with treated wood, to frame, support and outline the base.

Lay gravel base (paver base or crushed granite).

Level and tamp it / compact the base.

Lay a EZpad over that.

Instead of an easy pad is there something else I can use? I was hoping to just put 2foot by 2foot pavers on top of the gravel. How thick should my gravel base be?

Read your warranty carefully, you may void your shell warranty using pavers.

[superskid]

Same as mentioned above.

Box in an area with treated wood, to frame, support and outline the base.

Lay gravel base (paver base or crushed granite).

Level and tamp it / compact the base.

Lay a EZpad over that.

Instead of an easy pad is there something else I can use? I was hoping to just put 2foot by 2foot pavers on top of the gravel. How thick should my gravel base be?

Read your warranty carefully, you may void your shell warranty using pavers.

The beachcomber website lists paving stones as an option.

http://www.beachcomberhottubs.com/customer-care/hot-tub-installations/steps-to-install.asp

[Spa_Guru]

If the center of your spa sinks because the pavers were not able to hold the weight evenly, your spa will not be warranteed.

Why people spend thousands on a tub and then suddenly get too cheap to put down a smart deck or similar item is beyond me.

Kinda like putting retreaded junk yard tires on a new BMW.

[hjames710]

I have already put my pavers down for my '94 Jetsetter, but the ground beneath it is clay because they scraped all of the topsoil from the lots when they were building our homes. I put in a redwood frame, as our ground slopes away a little bit, and then laid 1-2 inches of large gravel, and 2-3 inches of crushed rock as my base. It seems to be very very sturdy, but I will not know until I try. My neighbor has his spa on pavers, and doesn't have any problems, but I think it just depends on how well your pavers are put in, your base, and the soil underneath them.

I do agree with you Spa_Guru, but in my case, I have a $300 Hot Tub, so I am not as worried. If I were however, getting a brand new tub, I would probably have concrete poured, or at least get a fiberglass pad.

[hjames710]

I suppose he could use this, since it is a temporary spot, it would probably be ok.

http://www.samsclub.com/sams/shop/product.jsp?productId=148118

[gman]

Instead of an easy pad is there something else I can use? I was hoping to just put 2foot by 2foot pavers on top of the gravel. How thick should my gravel base be?

The usual method for installing pavers is to place them on a layered foundation. The first layer is gravel (leveled, of course, for your tub) usually at least 4" deep after tamping. The next layer is leveled sand, also about 4" deep after tamping. The pavers are then laid on top of the tamped leveled sand. Once the pavers are laid in place, tamped and leveled, more sand is poured over the pavers and brushed to fill the spaces between the pavers to insure they don't shift.

If you want the bottom of your tub to rest approximately at ground level, then you need to dig a pit for your base approximately 10 - 14" deep, depending on the height of your pavers. I recommend you frame the perimeter of your pit with treated 2" x 6"s or 2" x 8"s to help maintain a solid perimeter (less susceptible to migration).

The danger with not using sand and putting your pavers directly on the gravel is this...heavy rains and freezing temperatures will move the gravel, up, down, sideways. Individual pavers placed directly on the gravel without the intervening layer of sand are effected much more significantly to shifting than when the pavers are placed on sand on top of gravel. Without sand, you will have a higher risk of distortion of the tub when the gravel shifts, which it will. The greater distortion, the greater the risk of damage to your tub.

gman