tbrooks Posted September 28, 2011 Report Share Posted September 28, 2011 I have a Sta-Rite SR400NA pool and spa heater that is approximately 12 years old and it will not fire, nor will the fan come on. The Pool light and temp display work as normal (or appear to), and the Service Heater light comes on as soon as the heater is turned on to the Pool or Spa setting. The AFS error light is lit on the control board, but as I stated before, the fan won't even start. I've had a "pool guy" come out and take a look at it, and he thinks it is a faulty Ignition control module, but I'm not convinced. He did something to make the fan come on, but I don't know what that was. I think it may the the control board or the membrane, as I've followed the trouble shooting flowchart in the owner's manual and that is what it suggests the problem to be. I can hear the small relay on the control board click when I turn the heater on, but I don't think it is sending any voltage to the ignition control module. Can anyone help me figure out exactly where the problem lies? I don't want to just throw parts at it until it works. Oh, and one more thing. The plastic cover over the membrane itself (not the plastic cover connected to the housing, that's been long gone) delaminated over the summer exposing the membrane to the elements, I'm not sure how long or if it got wet. Any guidance will be greatly appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Clown Posted September 29, 2011 Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 It could help if we knew what the tech did to start the fan. See if he will tell you. If he has a shred of honesty, he will tell you. Also, tell him to replace the board(if he wants) but you aren't going to pay for it, unless it fixes the problem. If he replies with, "I can't return it if its been used" tell him HE is the tech, not you... Anyone can replace parts, its his job to know what parts need to be replaced. In business talk it's called "taking a loss". If he wont do it, it's time for a new tech! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbrooks Posted September 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 Thanks, I appreciate the reply. However, I'd rather not call the gentleman back as he wasn't that nice to begin with, not to mention he charges $100 an hour. I don't mind paying to have the heater fixed, but he was going to charge for two hours of work to replace the module, which I find to be a bit steep considering how easy the job is. I'm pretty sure he used a jumper wire to start the fan as he had me turn the breaker off for a minute, he fiddled around by the module, I turned it back on and the fan started. In the manual, it says that once I've checked for voltage at the fan connector and find none, to test for 24 VAC between the 24VAC and IND terminals on ignition try. When I check that, I get 24 VAC when the heater is off, but it goes to 0 when I turn it on. I appreciate any help you can offer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bugman1400 Posted September 29, 2011 Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 What model ignition module is it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbrooks Posted September 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 What model ignition module is it? Fenwall Series 05-33 HSI is what it says on the module itself. The Sta-Rite part number is 4200-0052S. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bugman1400 Posted September 30, 2011 Report Share Posted September 30, 2011 What model ignition module is it? Fenwall Series 05-33 HSI is what it says on the module itself. The Sta-Rite part number is 4200-0052S. It is very possible that the exhaust fan relay on the module (that supplies the F1 to F2) is toast. If you are handy with a voltmeter then, measure F1 to ground during startup to ensure that there is voltage on F1. The relay inside the Fenwal module is responsible for transferring the voltage on F1 to F2. The F2 wire is what goes to the exhaust fan and applies the full 240VAC. I'm sure what the technician did is jumper the 240VAC straight to the fan (bypassing the module relay) to see if the fan motor was working. If you have voltage on F1 then, check F2 during startup. If F2 has no voltage to ground then the relay is toast. I should also mention that when checking the F1 to ground or the F2 to ground you will get 120VAC not 240VAC. Another important note, since most pool heater live outside, it is not uncommon for contacts to get oxidation on them. I would also suggest disconnecting every quick-disconnect plug or contact and re-seating. This will promote wiping of the contact. I have an extra module if you need it. However, try everything else first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delliott165 Posted October 2, 2011 Report Share Posted October 2, 2011 TBrooks- Were you able to get your pool heater running. I am having pretty much the same problem with my Sta-Rite SR333NA. I'd be interested to hear how you solved this problem or additional steps you are taking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbrooks Posted October 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2011 What model ignition module is it? Fenwall Series 05-33 HSI is what it says on the module itself. The Sta-Rite part number is 4200-0052S. It is very possible that the exhaust fan relay on the module (that supplies the F1 to F2) is toast. If you are handy with a voltmeter then, measure F1 to ground during startup to ensure that there is voltage on F1. The relay inside the Fenwal module is responsible for transferring the voltage on F1 to F2. The F2 wire is what goes to the exhaust fan and applies the full 240VAC. I'm sure what the technician did is jumper the 240VAC straight to the fan (bypassing the module relay) to see if the fan motor was working. If you have voltage on F1 then, check F2 during startup. If F2 has no voltage to ground then the relay is toast. I should also mention that when checking the F1 to ground or the F2 to ground you will get 120VAC not 240VAC. Another important note, since most pool heater live outside, it is not uncommon for contacts to get oxidation on them. I would also suggest disconnecting every quick-disconnect plug or contact and re-seating. This will promote wiping of the contact. I have an extra module if you need it. However, try everything else first. Bugman, thanks for the help! I've removed and replaced all connectors that I could find. Also, I've checked as instructed and there is 120v at F1, but no voltage at F2 on startup so am assuming that the module is bad. How much do you want for your module? BTW, found the jumper wire that my tech used and confirmed fan operation by removing F1 and F2 and jumping them. Thanks again for the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bugman1400 Posted October 4, 2011 Report Share Posted October 4, 2011 I think there are a few other items to check first, hence, my extra module. I bought a module without checking everything else first so, the new module did not fix things. I think there are several safety switches to check first. Seems like I also had an issue with a HI-TEMP LIMIT switch. Use a jumper to bypass those or visually check them to see if they are rusted out from the water. The next thing is to see if your Fenwal has an IND terminal. If it does, you should check that to ground and see if it has 24VAC during the startup. I believe the IND is the terminal that calls for the Inducer (Exhaust Fan) to come on. If you have 24VAC, then the module may be bad. Let me know what you find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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