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60 Amp Gfci/disconnect Help, Also Where To Purchase


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I found a 60A GFCI on ebay cheap! Turns out the store that was selling them on ebay was local to me, so I was able to buy it online and then just go pick it up.

Not sure how this forum works with stuff like this - so someone let me know if I can post the link or not.

Ok, sorry for joining late, but first of all, you can't base the breaker size on the number of pumps or any of that. The motor spec (i.e., 5 hp) is a nominal rating - an AC induction motor can produce, for short periods of time, 300% or more of the namplate rated output power, the actual value depending on the specific motor. The motor actually does this, albeit for a very short period while the motor is spining up every time you start the pump. During this period the current draw is far more than you might conclude from looking at the power rating of the motor. On top of that, electrical motor power ratings are more or less completely unreliable anyway - manufacturers rate these things differently (that shop vac in the garage doesn't actually produce 6 HP continuously!). Even if you did sum up all the peak current draws for the spa equipment, and convinced yourself that the total number was under 50 amps, you should NOT use a 50 amp breaker!! Generally, the max load should be 80% of the breaker rating. In other words, you should use a 50 amp breaker for loads that are less than 80% of 50 amps, or 40 amps. Bigger then that requires a 60 amp breaker, which is good for up to 48 amps. Unless you know more about the engineering of your tub than the manufacturer, using a smaller breaker is likely not a great idea.

For your length of 60 amp circuit you should run #6 AWG for the two hots (red & black) and I recommend a #6 for the neutral (white). However, if your local codes permit, you could get away with a #8 white. The reason for this is that the white wire is only used for relatively light loads in a spa - the pumps and heaters are running off the 240VAC lines, and the white carries none of the current from the "heavy machinery" at all.

2002 NEC only requires the disconnect for other than single family dwellings, but I think in general most local codes DO require the disconnect for all spa installations. There's a lot of good reasons to have a disconnect.... just don't get it closer than 5 feet to the water - this requirement is so that people can't reach the electrical disconnect while they are actually in the spa. Now that would take a special brand of dumb but I bet it's happened.

As for the second ground to the water pipe, I don't see that it would hurt, but I personally wouldn't bother. Your water system is not really a ground per se, although there are some very good reasons why code requires the house water supply to be bonded to the electrical ground. The water pipes aren't really grounding anything, what's really happening is that the bond wire from the water pipe is really providing a good path back to the REAL ground at the panelboard. Better the current go there than through you! As long as your main panelboard ground is bonded to the water pipes per your local codes, your subpanel ground is in good order (and conected to the ground bus at the main panelboard), , and your wiring to the spa is good, I think you're good to go. You DO want to make sure that your spa is grounded and that all the bonds inside the spa (the bare wires running from pump motors to ground bus bar at controller) are connected. Bad grounding and bonding has killed people, so if you aren't sure of what you're doing, call someone who is.

Most local code will specify that your sub panel has to be a certain distance above grade. This is to keep it dry. In my area it's 12 inches. As for the conduit runs, again you have to check your codes. In my area, PVC has to be 24 inches below grade but rigid or EMT only needs to be 6 inches. No way to guess what code is in your area but your inspector friend will know for sure. Most people use a short length of liquidtite to connect up to the spa. The NEC limits this liquidtite run to 6 feet max.

Too bad you couldn't get the 60A GFCI from Lowe's. It's a Midwest Electric box, very good quality. The Midwest breaker is actually a Siemens ITE, which is a good part. The replacement breaker, which you CAN'T get at Lowe's or Home Depot, costs more than the entire Midwest disconect box, which is only $94! That box is a great deal. You should test your GFI as a ritual, because they do go bad... and after all, you're sitting in a tub of water proximal to several pieces of 240VAC electricity.

Good luck to you!

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  • 2 years later...

I got mine at Home Depot about 7 years ago, maybe longer. I am having problems now. The GFI Breaker keeps kicking off.

Here is the link to the same unit that is currently offered for $69.99. I think I'll buy the same unit again and just pop in the new GFI breaker.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&productId=100567181&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&cm_sp=d27-_-Breaker_Panels_Conduits-_-Subcats-_-featured_products1

Bruce

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