imintrouble Posted April 26, 2011 Report Share Posted April 26, 2011 I have a question that has been troubling me a little bit. I'm running into a problem trying to replace my light niche on my inground pool, my pool is 8" concrete walls and has a vinyl liner. The liner is about to be replaced and the pool is drained. The patio surrounding the pool has also not yet been put down so i have access to all of the lines and the junction box. I removed the light and have placed it on the top of the pool. I removed the liner and foam surrounding the light housing and attempted to remove the niche with no success. I dug out behind the light to expose the conduit and see that there is only one hole coming out from the concrete wall which is where the conduit for the electric line comes through. I would like to replace the housing because the copper ring that the wire goes through looks as if it is wearing a little bit. I have a stainless steel american products model 5 housing. can anyone tell me how to remove the light niche/housing? Im certain it is cemented or caulked in place, but i don't want to pry it out without knowing for certain. any help would be appreciated. i would hate to spend 800 bucks on the replacement that the liner company wants to charge. Thank you, Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PoolGuyNJ Posted April 27, 2011 Report Share Posted April 27, 2011 I doubt it's copper. More Likely brass. If it isn't leaking, leave it alone. Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beelzy Posted April 27, 2011 Report Share Posted April 27, 2011 Light niches are usually embedded into the surrounding concrete......no easy way to remove without demolishing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Clown Posted April 27, 2011 Report Share Posted April 27, 2011 Do you feel you have to replace the niche if you are replacing the light fixture? You probably may not need to. What light do you want to replace with? and what is the diameter of the existing niche? Can you post a pic of it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imintrouble Posted April 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2011 I doubt it's copper. More Likely brass. If it isn't leaking, leave it alone. Scott Scott: Do you suggest i epoxy where the stainless meets the brass while i have the chance because the pool is empty? I think this would be a wise idea as a preventative measure. If yes, what type of epoxy or material do you suggest i use? links to pics: http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll273/sigmachibri/pool%20light/photo.jpg http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll273/sigmachibri/pool%20light/photo3.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imintrouble Posted April 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2011 I doubt it's copper. More Likely brass. If it isn't leaking, leave it alone. Scott Scott: Do you suggest i epoxy where the stainless meets the brass while i have the chance because the pool is empty? I think this would be a wise idea as a preventative measure. If yes, what type of epoxy or material do you suggest i use? links to pics: http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll273/sigmachibri/pool%20light/photo.jpg http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll273/sigmachibri/pool%20light/photo3.jpg @pool clown: I actually had no intention of replacing the light right now. I just so happen to have the liner off and the conduit int eh back of the light housing looks like it may be wearing a little bit because there is a little bit of a gap on one side of what appears to be threads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PoolGuyNJ Posted April 28, 2011 Report Share Posted April 28, 2011 Screw the screws back in. When the screws have a 1/4 left, hit them with a little RTV silicone. I use clear GE, not the DAP brand. Then screw them in flush. Wipe away any excess. Where is the conduit's pressure nut that is normally on the inside for the niche? All I see there is bare metal. I usually use butyl tape wrapped around the cord where it enters the conduit and potting compound on the bond wire that I don't see either but may be attached on the outside of the niche shell. Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imintrouble Posted April 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2011 Screw the screws back in. When the screws have a 1/4 left, hit them with a little RTV silicone. I use clear GE, not the DAP brand. Then screw them in flush. Wipe away any excess. Where is the conduit's pressure nut that is normally on the inside for the niche? All I see there is bare metal. I usually use butyl tape wrapped around the cord where it enters the conduit and potting compound on the bond wire that I don't see either but may be attached on the outside of the niche shell. Scott It didn't look as if there was a pressure nut inside. It looked as if the conduit itself screwed into the housing. You're suggesting that i don't replace this light housing, correct? Do you believe it's cemented into place or can it be removed easily? I'm assuming the butyl tape around the cord is to prevent water from entering the conduit? I believe the bond wire is on the back side of the shell event though i didn't find it when digging around but then again i wasn't really looking. I guess i have to assume the bond wire connects to the smaller brass object in the housing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Clown Posted April 28, 2011 Report Share Posted April 28, 2011 If everything works, then i would pack some A+B epoxy putty in the conduit at the niche. Maybe pack is the wrong word. All you need to do is seal up the conduit(where the cord comes into the niche) so IF you have a leaking conduit, this will seal it, and will no longer leak. IMO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PoolGuyNJ Posted April 28, 2011 Report Share Posted April 28, 2011 Don't use epoxy. If the fixture ever needs replacing, getting the epoxy to let go is a major PITA. That's why I use butyl tape. Wear latex or nitrile gloves when forming the wad. The stuff is a bit gooey. Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imintrouble Posted April 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2011 Don't use epoxy. If the fixture ever needs replacing, getting the epoxy to let go is a major PITA. That's why I use butyl tape. Wear latex or nitrile gloves when forming the wad. The stuff is a bit gooey. Scott Am I using the butyl tap between the stainless and the brass or inside the brass pipe around the wire? My primary concern was around the outside of the brass where it meets the stainless because it seemed like a gap was beginning to form in a small portion of eBay looked like the threads. How long would you expect the butyl tape to hold? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imintrouble Posted April 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2011 http://www.aqua-man.com/row_num.asp?ic=56266&froogle=1 I believe this is what you mean, correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Clown Posted April 28, 2011 Report Share Posted April 28, 2011 Hmm. I use the epoxy all the time with no problems. As long as you don't pack two or three inches into the conduit. If you just seal the opening, getting the epoxy out is not a problem. You wiggle or pull on the cord a little, the epoxy plug pops out. I don't know, if you gotta put gloves on to deal with that mess(the tape), almost seems like that is the PITA. I'm sure either way will seal the conduit. Good Luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PoolGuyNJ Posted April 28, 2011 Report Share Posted April 28, 2011 Its less mess than playing with epoxy bro. The tape should last about 10 to 20 years if its undisturbed. Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Clown Posted April 28, 2011 Report Share Posted April 28, 2011 Have you used A+B epoxy putty before? No hassles, molds like clay, and water cleanup! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PoolGuyNJ Posted April 28, 2011 Report Share Posted April 28, 2011 I'm very familiar with it. I use it on skimmers at least 2X a year. I still get better results with butyl tape on niche conduit ports. Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imintrouble Posted April 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2011 ok so regardless of which one i choose, im only putting it around the conduit port where i think there may be a future leak developing, correct? im not going to put it inside the conduit with the wire, right? that area is normally filled with water and shouldnt need to be plugged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Clown Posted April 29, 2011 Report Share Posted April 29, 2011 I would do it from the inside. You want your sealer to be on the inside being pushed into the crack, or area in question by waters weight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PoolGuyNJ Posted April 29, 2011 Report Share Posted April 29, 2011 Absolutely on the inside! Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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