Technichlor (After-Market Salt Water Chlorine Generator)

[Mark SC]

Thought I would update my experience with Technichlor now that it's been a couple of months. I have the Technichlor 220, which is actually a 110 volt unit. It cost me around $300. I have it connected to an extension cord in a dry spot under my house since my spa runs on a dedicated circuit and I needed a few more yards to reach another GFCI outlet (the unit is very low voltage). I have a 250 gallon Dreammaker spa. Previously, I've used CleanWater Blue (copper) and 3-step bromine for my sanitation.

The bottom line is that I highly recommend this unit. It couldn't be simpler to set up and use, and the water quality is sparkling--much better than the other methods I have used. One "off label" step I did take based on recommendations here is to add 30 ppm of CYA stabalizer prior to use in order to help buffer the chlorine. Then I just added 6 cups of salt, balanced the water to a pH of 7.4 and alkalinity of 70, and plugged the unit in. I also disconnected my ozonator, since I do not believe it would add any benefits and would simply waste energy.

The Technichlor unit has a setting ranging form 1-10 to regulate the amount of chlorine produced. I started with 4, but found that too high so eventually settled on 3. That has been perfect for over a month now based on my spa usage (approx. 1 person-hour every other day). It maintains a steady 3-5 ppm of chlorine.

Cons? There are no buttons on the unit so you have to tap it to make any changes. Kind of annoying if it is dark and you can't see which way is up! Also, you need to let the unit know by tapping it after you have used the spa so that it will go into chlorine "boost mode" (3x normal chlorine production to oxidize bather waste). Finally, there is a bit of trial and error to determine the best chlorine setting based on your spa volume.

I would recommend this unit to anyone looking for a simple way to keep the spa sanitized. Ongoing maintenance is the same as the dichlor then bleach method: simply check chemical balance once or twice weekly and clean the filters every two weeks. There has been no deterioration in water quality after 2 months, so I'm hopeful that I can go 5-6 months between refilling. The unit would be especially useful for anyone who goes on vacation for extended periods and wants a method to automatically add chlorine. An additional benefit is the salt water--it feels great on the skin and has greatly helped with dry skin issues I had when using bromine.

[Itchy and Scratchy]

Thanks for the details. $300 is a bargain compared to "alternative sanitizers". What do you notice with the smell of the water. What was your salt ppm again??? Thanks for the post and please let us know if you run into problems. Maybee I will pick one up in the future.

[yzoldman]

I too have been using the Technichlor SWG for about the same time and could not be happier with the results. My tub is a bit larger (400 gals.) and my usage is about the same (one person aprox. every other day for 45 mins.) I was going to use the dichlor then bleach method until I saw some info on the Techniclor. I did some research and spoke to someone at the company that makes it and I was convinced. Maintenance could not be easier. I initially would check the water every day but things remained constant. I now do spot checks using test strips, and more thurough test once a week. I also have mine set at three and just leave it there even after a soak. Water is clear no chlorine smell and as mentioned above skin does not seem to dry out as much. My salt level is a little high (3300 ppm). I added 10 cups of pool salt. When I do my next refill I will only use 8 and see how that does.

[zulueta69]

Hello. I'm a newbie in this great pool site and I'm happy that I joined.

To Mark Sc, I've read your info on Techniclor 220, and it's interesting to know your experience and recommendations shared. Thank you for this. Now I'm thinking on having one of this Techniclor.

Looking forward to share my experience soon....

[gman]

To those using the Technichlor SWCG...

I'm interested in a SWCG. I'm curious as to the effects of your SWCG on any stainless steel parts in the hot tub. I have stainless steel jet covers in my tub. I know salt can have an effect on metal, including stainless steel. What kind of effect will depend on the concentration of the salt and the quality of the stainless steel. Unfortunately, I do not know whether the quality of stainless steel used for jet covers. I'm assuming that it is low grade stainless steel to keep the cost down.

I realize you may not have any stainless steel in your hot tub and therefore may not be able to provide any anecdotal information on the matter. Even if you do have stainless steel parts, no effects may be evident at this time since you have only been using your SWCG for a short time and perhaps not at high enough salt concentrations to be detrimental.

If you do have stainless steel parts in your hot tub, would you keep us posted of the effects, if any, of salt on the tubs metal components? I'd also like to know what salt concentration, in ppm, you generally maintain in your tub. Thanks.

narukami

[spatech (the unreal one)]

To those using the Technichlor SWCG...

I'm interested in a SWCG. I'm curious as to the effects of your SWCG on any stainless steel parts in the hot tub. I have stainless steel jet covers in my tub. I know salt can have an effect on metal, including stainless steel. What kind of effect will depend on the concentration of the salt and the quality of the stainless steel. Unfortunately, I do not know whether the quality of stainless steel used for jet covers. I'm assuming that it is low grade stainless steel to keep the cost down.

As you noted the key is the quality (or type) of stainless used. Unless they're using this SWCG on the same type spa you have you really can't conclude much from their experience.

[Mark SC]

To answer a question raised earlier, the Technichlor unit uses 2,000 ppm of salt. There is no smell except perhaps a slight whiff of chlorine when opening the cover. I can't speak to the effect on stainless steel. I would call your spa manufacturer and ask them. That's what I did to get the ok that it would not affect my warranty.

I would really like to see more spas come standard with a SWCG rather than an ozonator. The cost is not much higher. It is such an easy sanitation method and could help a lot of novices avoid problems. My local Hot Springs dealer told me that they now include Technichlor with most of the spas they sell. Maybe it will catch on.

[bdubya200]

Are there aftermarket 'in line' and integrated SWCG systems that can be installed? Im interested in the concept, but not the unit being draped over the side of the tub with a power cord running to an outlet.

[Mark SC]

Yes, according to its web site the Technichlor manufacturer makes a couple of different in-line versions that are dealer installed.

[Mark SC]

Thought I'd post another update. It's now been nearly 5 months since I switched to the Technichlor. I still haven't had to change my water, which remains extremely clear with no chlorine smell. I still keep the unit set at level 3 and put it into "boost mode" whenever I exit the spa. Other than that, I check the pH weekly and usually have to add a little acid to bring it down. I also add 5 ppm CYA monthly per chemgeek's recommendation. The process couldn't be simpler. One problem I did have is the SWCG unit was moving when my filter cycles came on (I have a one speed pump), and it's gyroscope would occasionally put it into boost mode, gradually driving up the chlorine level. I solved that by placing the unit in a glass bowl in the middle of the spa (easy to remove when I use the spa) so it can no longer move around the spa and make contact with the spa walls. This likely would not be a problem for anyone with a low speed circulation pump. I still highly recommend the product and won't post again unless I run into an issue.

[spawn]

Thought I'd post another update. It's now been nearly 5 months since I switched to the Technichlor. I still haven't had to change my water, which remains extremely clear with no chlorine smell. I still keep the unit set at level 3 and put it into "boost mode" whenever I exit the spa. Other than that, I check the pH weekly and usually have to add a little acid to bring it down. I also add 5 ppm CYA monthly per chemgeek's recommendation. The process couldn't be simpler. One problem I did have is the SWCG unit was moving when my filter cycles came on (I have a one speed pump), and it's gyroscope would occasionally put it into boost mode, gradually driving up the chlorine level. I solved that by placing the unit in a glass bowl in the middle of the spa (easy to remove when I use the spa) so it can no longer move around the spa and make contact with the spa walls. This likely would not be a problem for anyone with a low speed circulation pump. I still highly recommend the product and won't post again unless I run into an issue.

Mark SC - Have you tried adding 50 ppm borates to see if it would reduce the need to add acid on a weekly basis? I use dichlor then bleach method and most of the year we average about 1 person hr per day of use - pretty high. In the past I would have to add acid periodically because of climbing pH but once I started adding borates at the time of filling the need for the acid was greatly reduced. I don't think I've read of borates being used in tubs with SWCG so I don't know if this is an option. FWIW, the borates also effect the feel of the water in my tub - many report that they like the effect but personally I am satisfied with the feel of the water either way.

The major appeal of SWCG for me would be when out of town for an extended trip the tub would not need to have sanitizer added since the SWCG would handle this, assuming salt level was sufficient. For day to day use, I personally would rather add a little bleach when I get out of the tub rather than have a cord running to the tub with a SWCG sitting in a glass bowl in the bottom - I understand it is removed when the tub is in use. Adding bleach in proportion to actual use - use by my kids varies wildly - is very straight forward as they know to add 1 oz per person per 10 minutes.

As for what to do when I am out of town - so far that has not been a problem. I have gone away for a week and added a high dose of bleach before leaving and all was well (I currently have an ozonator but don't know if I will replace when it dies). For a longer trip I could have a neighbor stop by and add bleach. However, I definitely see the appeal of using the SWCG if one is frequently out of town for long periods.

[Mark SC]

Update: Controlomatic has updated the software in the Technichlor generator so that the cell no longer goes into boost mode until it is removed from the spa and tapped by the user. That's a great change, as accidental movement of the cell from jet action in filter cycles will no longer be an issue.

Spawn, I do plan to try adding borates soon, perhaps a couple of weeks before the next water change to see how I like it. Thanks for the tip.

[gman]

Thought I would update my experience with Technichlor now that it's been a couple of months. I have the Technichlor 220, which is actually a 110 volt unit. It cost me around $300. I have it connected to an extension cord in a dry spot under my house since my spa runs on a dedicated circuit and I needed a few more yards to reach another GFCI outlet (the unit is very low voltage). I have a 250 gallon Dreammaker spa. Previously, I've used CleanWater Blue (copper) and 3-step bromine for my sanitation.

The bottom line is that I highly recommend this unit. It couldn't be simpler to set up and use, and the water quality is sparkling--much better than the other methods I have used. One "off label" step I did take based on recommendations here is to add 30 ppm of CYA stabalizer prior to use in order to help buffer the chlorine. Then I just added 6 cups of salt, balanced the water to a pH of 7.4 and alkalinity of 70, and plugged the unit in. I also disconnected my ozonator, since I do not believe it would add any benefits and would simply waste energy.

The Technichlor unit has a setting ranging form 1-10 to regulate the amount of chlorine produced. I started with 4, but found that too high so eventually settled on 3. That has been perfect for over a month now based on my spa usage (approx. 1 person-hour every other day). It maintains a steady 3-5 ppm of chlorine.

Cons? There are no buttons on the unit so you have to tap it to make any changes. Kind of annoying if it is dark and you can't see which way is up! Also, you need to let the unit know by tapping it after you have used the spa so that it will go into chlorine "boost mode" (3x normal chlorine production to oxidize bather waste). Finally, there is a bit of trial and error to determine the best chlorine setting based on your spa volume.

I would recommend this unit to anyone looking for a simple way to keep the spa sanitized. Ongoing maintenance is the same as the dichlor then bleach method: simply check chemical balance once or twice weekly and clean the filters every two weeks. There has been no deterioration in water quality after 2 months, so I'm hopeful that I can go 5-6 months between refilling. The unit would be especially useful for anyone who goes on vacation for extended periods and wants a method to automatically add chlorine. An additional benefit is the salt water--it feels great on the skin and has greatly helped with dry skin issues I had when using bromine.

I, too, am interested in a SWCG system for my hot tub. The after market products have attracted my attention. I'm not looking to replace my current tub (2009 Sundance Optima) anytime soon. But when the time comes, I will be considering a SWCG as an option. It seems the newer systems from Hot Springs and Arctic are better than the older designs. But from the mixed reviews of these newer systems, it also seems that there are still bugs in these systems. I hope the technology continues to improve for hot tubs.

That being said, I just wanted to add this cautionary note to anyone who is inspired or prompted to purchase an after market SWCG for their hot tub. And this cautionary note is not intended in any way to disparage a SWCG system, but...

Anyone interested in an after market SWCG should first contact their hot tub manufacturer to see if the SWCG will void their warranty. I was advised by Sundance, through the local dealer, that Sundance has not tested their tubs for SWCG and therefore using such a system would VOID the warranty. For those with older tubs whose warranty has already expired or who are the tub's second owner (warranty is not transferable), this may not be an issue. But those owners whose tub is still under warranty should check with their tub manufacturer. My guess would be that tub manufacturers who do not offer a SWCG or who have not tested for SWCG, particularly those with proprietary parts, will NOT cover the cost of failing parts or systems if you install an after market SWCG in your hot tub. Just something to keep in mind when considering the pros and cons of this system.

Happy tubbing!

narukami

[walleye]

I have read all I can find on the Technichlor where I am pretty convinced it causes no trouble. Sure wish a few more people would chime in on this.

[Mark SC]

Update after 1 1/2 years of use: I definitely still recommend it. I add 30 ppm of CYA upon a fresh fill so that the chlorine is not so destructive of swim suits. I've also found that a few tablespoons of borax on start up is useful to help regulate the pH. Other than that, I don't add anything. I measure chlorine 2x per week and pH weekly. With borax, the pH rarely moves much, but without it has a tendency to rise, so you will likely need to add acid every week or two to bring it back down. Also, the Technichlor allows you to adjust the chlorine output. My spa is 240 gallons, and I've found that level 3 (the default) is best in the summer when the spa isn't used much, but level 4 is needed during periods of heavy use. For a larger spa, I would imagine that levels 4 and 5 are needed.

Really, it is a very simple process, and the unit does a great job of keeping the chlorine at good levels. You will add pool salt upon a fresh fill, but you shouldn't need to add it thereafter.

[walleye]

Will mineral salt work? I bought certified " Pure Dead Sea Mineral Salt" as I read it has benefits to the skin. Is this true or should I just use normal pool salt?

THX

[BravoRomeo]

I understand you can also use Canning and Pickling Salt, which is pure granular NaCl without any anti-caking agents or iodine. Pool Calculator shows I need 3.6 lbs for my HS Jetsetter. Conveniently, Walmart sells a 4-lb box of Canning/Pickling Salt for a buck-fifty or so.

As far as corrosion goes, the Control-o-Matic SWCG units require 2000 ppm sodium-chloride. Much of what I've read indicates 6000 ppm is where corrosion starts to be a problem (35,000 ppm for seawater). From my calculations, spas can reach a 1000-2000 ppm level of salt over time just from adding chlorine and most other chems, as they are all based on salts, let alone salt in sweat from bathers. The bigger issue is run-away chlorine levels, which is far more corrosive... so you still need to test and keep an eye on the water.

I will also report in when I install mine.

[BravoRomeo]

Will mineral salt work? I bought certified " Pure Dead Sea Mineral Salt" as I read it has benefits to the skin. Is this true or should I just use normal pool salt?

THX

I'd take any such claims with a... <drumroll>... grain of salt. It would be fascinating in a double-blind test to see if subjects could feel the difference between conditioned spa water: straight-up, hard water, soft water, borated, salted, dead-sea salted, etc. How much is real, and how much is perceptual bias?

As the saying goes, extraordinary claims require extraordinary proof.

[Chas]

I'd take any such claims with a... <drumroll>... grain of salt.

Funny!! :D :D :lol:

[spawn]

I understand you can also use Canning and Pickling Salt, which is pure granular NaCl without any anti-caking agents or iodine. Pool Calculator shows I need 3.6 lbs for my HS Jetsetter. Conveniently, Walmart sells a 4-lb box of Canning/Pickling Salt for a buck-fifty or so.

The only down side is that you get out of the tub smelling like a gerkin...

[BravoRomeo]

The only down side is that you get out of the tub smelling like a gerkin...

I've heard of spas using cucumber masks; do you suppose there is a connection there? Now, if in a pickle, I do have a box of Kosher Salt, but that would probably be more appropriate for making pretzels.

Hmmm.. baking soda, salt, borax, cyanuric acid, mmm, just like Grandma use to cook.

[walleye]

Laugh all you want, this thing has been worth its weight in gold. Basically no maintainence at all for sanitizer. I was gone for 8 days on a MC trip and got back a week ago, left it on #2 setting, come back to a 2 ppm Cl. I leave it set at 4 and I use it nightly, have mainted a 3 ppm for a week. I NEVER worry about no sanitizer and after figuring out how my tub reacts, this thing makes it a breeze. I highly recommend and have ZERO interst in ANY company. I am bleach, borax, baking soda and technichlor...period. Best thing I bought for my tub no doubt.

[dc_350]

First post...very nice forum here!

After doing a lot of research I installed a Techniclor unit about 6 weeks (after struggling all last year with BaquaSpa). Very happy with the results so far but I do have a question. I'm noticing a fairly significant white residue buildup in the unit which is dropping out and has to be vacuumed up. Is this normal in the operation of this unit? Water hardness is within the normal range as are the alkalinity and ph levels. Salt is at 2,100 ppm. Tub is 375 gallons fwiw...

Many thanks!

[chem geek]

What you describe sounds like scaling. Are you using a good test kit such as the Taylor K-2006? If you are using test strips, they can be next to useless. I suspect that some combination of your pH, Total Alkalinity (TA) and Calcium Hardness (CH) are too high.

[dc_350]

Just using test strips...I'll check out the Taylor kit.

Thanks for the quick response...