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Sundance Marin Heating Problem


tikigonewild

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Hi all, I have a sundance Marin (1995) with sentry 800 box (but a sentry 850 circuit board~!). We just replaced the heater, thermostat and wet-end on one of the two pumps. We cannot seem to get the heater to operate. The controller does not display any error faults, so we are fairly certain that it is not a flow issue. looking straight on at the tub sentry panel, the pump to the right cuts on as soon as "Jets" is pressed, the pump to the left, does not. If "Jets" is pressed again, the pump to the right goes to its second speed. The left side pump still does nothing. When "Jets 2" is pressed, the pump to the left energizes and functions normally, but at what seems to be the 2nd speed setting for the pump on the right. Correct me if I am wrong, but on the 1995 Marin 800, arent both pumps 2-speed? or is the pump to the left only one speed? Anyway, I brought that up because I was wondering if the "low" setting on the left pump is also on the same circuit as the heater. The thermostat is operating properly and displays the correct water temperature.

Onto the Heater problem, at first, we thought everything was operating at normal, the tub heater the water from 45 degrees to 66 degrees in about 3 hours. Then it just stopped at 66F. So, out came the trusty Voltmeter... we started at the heater leads and worked our way back. At the heater, we get power to the top (red) lead, but, the ground (bottom, black) lead read open. The only way we got power to read on the meter was to put the positive prod on the positive terminal of the heater, and the negative prod on the ground bar (or any ground). So, figuring we had an open circuit, we traced it back to where the ground cable for the heater connects on the circuit board. We tried putting the positive lead on the volt meter on the positive lead for the heater again, and then placing the negative lead on the terminal where the negative wire for the heater connected to the circuit board, and again, open circuit. Then moved the negative prod to the next set of ground wires on the circuit board and were able to complete the cirucit. This leads us to believe that the culprit of the open-circuit to the heater ( and possibly the low-speed of the left circ pump) is the relay above the spot where the negative wires connect that are yielding the open circuit.

That being said, what possible resolutions are there? I cant imagine replacing the entire circuit board if just the one relay is bad. Could we use one of the other relays to trigger some sort of two pole off-board relay? can the relay on the board be replaced? thanks for quick responses... in rare form, its 70 Degrees outside today, and we'd like to get this bad-boy up and running ASAP! here is a picture of the circuit board with what we -THINK- is the problem component circled in red...

28qw6bp.jpg

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the second pump (one on the left) is a single speed pump, so that is ok.

the 3 relays on the bottom of the board are all for the heater, no pumps connect there.

are you sure the spa is calling for heat? is the little icon on the screen lit up?

make sure that the spa is in "standard mode" then and that icon is lit. if so, test for 240 combined volts (NOT FOR POWER TO GROUND ON EACH WIRE)on the red and black at the heater. if no 240 the relays are probally bad. if 240 is there the heater is bad.

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