I've Been Using Coloidal Silver Since June '10.

[silver-ado]

in June I bought a tub and a coloidal silver generator, $139.00.

My tub holds 390 gal. So based on some very shaky math with

the guy that I bought the silver generator from, I used a recipe

of 1 oz of coloidal silver to 1 gallon of tub water. Eventally I

found that 1/2 oz is sufficient. The concentration of

coloidal Silver is 7ppm. I now make 1 gal worth and dump it in.

introducing the remaining 1/2 gallon a week later.

I can't stress enough that if you introduce any other chemical into

the system; ph, shock, bright and clear, stain and scale... You will have

a huge waste zone. See the heavy silver bonds with everything.

My current test is 8 weeks old. Crystal clear water. There is a tan colored bio

residue that I'm going try to eradicate with enzyme from my local spa dealer.

This residue gathers like sand.

No this will not turn you blue. The Mayo clinic is currently studying the effects

of CS. I ran past what I was doing with the head of the study. He thinks it is pretty

smart and safe. As long as I'm not investing the CS by the gallon per

week. There is no smell to my water. My total spa expense since

June have been $139 for the generator and maybe $12 for distilled water and I'm

trying it a $19 bottle of enzyme. Hopefully that will breakdown the bio fluff.

If not it's not that tough to mac out the residue.f anybody has already gone before

me I would love hear your experiences.

[chem geek]

Mayo Clinic, eh? Read the Mayo Clinic article Colloidal silver: Is it safe or effective? where the answer is No.

Also, why use colloidal silver where the ppm amount is pretty much irrelevant since it is the size of the particles that matters in terms of any benefits to disinfection. Silver ions are far more effective than colloidal silver in terms of needing very small amounts. The problem is that to get enough silver in the water to be reasonably effective, you are at great risk for staining. As shown in this post, silver ions alone at levels below that which would cause staining are not fast killers of bacteria, have absolutely no effect on viruses, and are probably ineffective against protozoan oocysts as well.

The silver does not provide any oxidation of bather waste, hence your need to use enzymes or some form of oxidizer.

Your costs seem pretty high. If you were to use the Dichlor-then-bleach method for your 390 gallon spa, then this would require about 3 ounces weight of Dichlor added during the first week which at around $6 per pound is $1.12, and then probably around 4 fluid ounces of 6% bleach added every day if you use the spa regularly (assuming one person soaking for around a half-hour) which at around $2.50 for 96 ounces of Clorox Regular (that's conservative and you can find bleach for less) would be $9.38 for 90 days. You would probably use 15 ounces weight of boric acid from Proteam Gentle Spa to get to 50 ppm Borates on your fill which at around $15 for 2 pounds would be $7. So total cost for 3 months would be around $17 or so. There's also some cost for acid that may be needed, but by keeping the TA low one can minimize this. There may also be some calcium hardness (CH) added initially if the fill water is low in CH and one wants to prevent foaming.

[silver-ado]

Mayo Clinic, eh? Read the Mayo Clinic article Colloidal silver: Is it safe or effective? where the answer is No.

Also, why use colloidal silver where the ppm amount is pretty much irrelevant since it is the size of the particles that matters in terms of any benefits to disinfection. Silver ions are far more effective than colloidal silver in terms of needing very small amounts. The problem is that to get enough silver in the water to be reasonably effective, you are at great risk for staining. As shown in this post, silver ions alone at levels below that which would cause staining are not fast killers of bacteria, have absolutely no effect on viruses, and are probably ineffective against protozoan oocysts as well.

The silver does not provide any oxidation of bather waste, hence your need to use enzymes or some form of oxidizer.

Your costs seem pretty high. If you were to use the Dichlor-then-bleach method for your 390 gallon spa, then this would require about 3 ounces weight of Dichlor added during the first week which at around $6 per pound is $1.12, and then probably around 4 fluid ounces of 6% bleach added every day if you use the spa regularly (assuming one person soaking for around a half-hour) which at around $2.50 for 96 ounces of Clorox Regular (that's conservative and you can find bleach for less) would be $9.38 for 90 days. You would probably use 15 ounces weight of boric acid from Proteam Gentle Spa to get to 50 ppm Borates on your fill which at around $15 for 2 pounds would be $7. So total cost for 3 months would be around $17 or so. There's also some cost for acid that may be needed, but by keeping the TA low one can minimize this. There may also be some calcium hardness (CH) added initially if the fill water is low in CH and one wants to prevent foaming.

Thank you for you response.

The article you site is written by the same person that gave my solution a thumbs up. The article states that CS is not proven effective for treating ailments. But he says that it would be highly effective in killing bacteria. That's why many medical devices are tipped with silver.

I believe our costs are comparable after the initial purchase of the $139 generator which comes with a 4 year supply of silver rods. $1 worth enzyme a month. $0.50 a month for distilled water. The tub regulates its hardness with deposits bonding to the silver and being vac up. The ph seems to regulate itself as well. The reports on discolorization are due to too high of a concentration.

The point that I failed to emphasize has nothing to do with cost. I ONLY have to maintain my tub once every 3 months once a week I vacuum the tub, which should be soon replaced by the enzyme. A

I test the water for bacteria for peace of mind. I have no daily or even weekly maintainence. It is an extreme no brainer. And in Minnesota the less outdoor work I do in the winter is the better. Brrrr very cold .

[waterbear]

With no oxidation of organics introduced into the water by bathers you would need to be doing water changes about monthly or you would be getting excessive foaming and 'murky' water. You do realize the amount of sweat, urine and feces that each bather introduces? I am not talking about bacterial count here, only the organics added to the water. FWIW, chemically there is really little difference between sweat and urine.

Is that what you really want to be soaking in? IMHO, you need some form of oxidation also. Enzymes do not take the place of oxidizers.

[chem geek]

But he says that it would be highly effective in killing bacteria. That's why many medical devices are tipped with silver.

There is a huge difference between having medical instruments or containers made of silver, or even copper for that matter, as the concentration of metal is very high at and very near the surface which is what kills or prevents uncontrolled bacterial growth near/at the surface. That is not at all the same thing as killing bacteria in the bulk spa water. Your spa does not contain a fast-acting sanitizer, period, and there is continual introduction of new bacteria from your body into the water. Metal ions (silver or copper) do not pass EPA DIS/TSS-12 and I already gave you a link to a post listing numerous scientific peer-reviewed studies in respected journals demonstrating how silver at concentrations allowed in spas (below the limit of staining surfaces) is slow to kill bacteria and effectively doesn't control some of them, is completely ineffective against most viruses, and probably not effective against protozoan oocysts.

I have also contacted Dr. Bauer at the Mayo Clinic to see what he has to say about this.

[silver-ado]

But he says that it would be highly effective in killing bacteria. That's why many medical devices are tipped with silver.

There is a huge difference between having medical instruments or containers made of silver, or even copper for that matter, as the concentration of metal is very high at and very near the surface which is what kills or prevents uncontrolled bacterial growth near/at the surface. That is not at all the same thing as killing bacteria in the bulk spa water. Your spa does not contain a fast-acting sanitizer, period, and there is continual introduction of new bacteria from your body into the water. Metal ions (silver or copper) do not pass EPA DIS/TSS-12 and I already gave you a link to a post listing numerous scientific peer-reviewed studies in respected journals demonstrating how silver at concentrations allowed in spas (below the limit of staining surfaces) is slow to kill bacteria and effectively doesn't control some of them, is completely ineffective against most viruses, and probably not effective against protozoan oocysts.

I have also contacted Dr. Bauer at the Mayo Clinic to see what he has to say about this.

His response should be interesting. Other than a bacteria test, how should I test my water? The human waste componants described don't get oxidized, and can't be due to the weight of the silver. They do turn into a tan colored fluff in the water and and a tan colored sludge out of the water. This I just suck up in the vac every 3-5 days. How can I tell if I'm putting myself in danger?

[Mark SC]

Unless your silver is more effective than silver ions at killing bacteria, you must use MPS or a residual of chlorine. Chemgeek has gathered research showing that MPS is essential for silver ions to kill e.Coli, as well as to oxidize organic waste. I'm a proponent of silver or copper ion systems as "good enough" for home spa use where person-to-person transmission is not a big concern (while recognizing that they are not as effective as chlorine), but I would never take the risk without regular MPS use and periodic dichlor to oxidize and provide some backup sanitation.

[silver-ado]

Unless your silver is more effective than silver ions at killing bacteria, you must use MPS or a residual of chlorine. Chemgeek has gathered research showing that MPS is essential for silver ions to kill e.Coli, as well as to oxidize organic waste. I'm a proponent of silver or copper ion systems as "good enough" for home spa use where person-to-person transmission is not a big concern (while recognizing that they are not as effective as chlorine), but I would never take the risk without regular MPS use and periodic dichlor to oxidize and provide some backup sanitation.

Silver coloids are beTter at killing bacteria. No bacteria of any kind for 6 months running. I check the water monthly.

[chem geek]

Do you do your monthly water test immediately after you have just finished a soak? If not, try that next time you do a test. Also, to make sure your bacteria test kit is actually doing something valid, take a tiny amount of fecal matter (sorry to gross anyone out) and put it in some warm distilled water (not tap water as that has chlorine or monochoramine in it) and do your bacteria test on that water. If it doesn't show anything, then the test you are using is useless. Alternatively, you could take a moist swab (again, with distilled water, not tap water) to your skin and use that as your test sample, though that has far lower concentrations of bacteria that your test might not catch (though it really should). Even using some of your saliva should register bacteria.

[Visions]

https://www.purestcolloids.com/hottubsilver.php

[Ed kesner]

I started using collidol silver in my jacuzzi I have a brown ring around my jacuzzi that won't go away. Do you still use increaser and decreaser in the tub

[Ahhsomeguy]

Hi Ed:  A brown ring is typically indicative of a biofilm issue in the plumbing infrastructure.  If the ring seems to be sticky, it probably is biofilms.  Biofilms occur in all closed loop water systems.  Hot tubs and Swim Spas need their plumbing and jets “purged” periodically to eradicate this slime forming mass that shields and protects fungi, bacteria and protozoas from oxidation from sanitizers.  Every 4-6 months or so it is recommended to clean the internal plumbing with an effective purge product.  You must drain the water after purging.  Now, you have a fresh start period where you balance the chemistries and enjoy the cleanest water ever.  However, biofilms will retrench and the need to purge will be an ongoing maintenance protocol.  It is easy to do and it is so beneficial to those soaking and enjoying what a hot tub can do  for the mind, soul and body.

[michalsz2]

Hello,

It is a old post but maybe you guys can share some more if you still are using Colloidal Silver.

I cleaned my tub and added fresh water and CI, worked great for a week, and then started smelling baddly, any advice? will Enzymes help, or is there anything else I could use to be able using it chemicall free?

 

regards

 

Mike