Match Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 Hi Guys, I stumbled upon this site with a google search, and I'm hoping someone can help me narrow down my problem (or confirm my assessment). I have a Jandy LXi series natural gas heater, which up until today worked just fine. We had not used the heater in about 2 months, and when we fired it up today we got no heat. Upon diagnosing the heater.... The pool RS system requests heat from the heater, it clicks a few times, then about 60 second after a request for heat I get 1 red light flashing on the Fenwel Ignition Module. It was flashing once, which indicated a problem with the air sensor. I cleaned out the air sensor, and the tubing. No luck. So then I just bypassed the sensor to see if it was the problem. (I just moved the wire to the other side of the air sensor, which is normally closed...completing the circuit) Now, the start-up process gets farther along with the air sensor bypassed. The gas comes on, and fires once (I feel a burst of heat from the top of the unit, and you can hear the combustion starting). But then everything stops, gas turns off, and the Ignition control unit starts blinking two times... which means something like "Flame, No Heat Requested". Heat IS being requested from the RS control unit. It's like the Ignition module is confused and screams "WTF, Flames? NO, Stop!" Perhaps it's had a good life (4 years) and it's time to get it replaced? Any ideas or similar situations? In addition to this problem, I had a few questions come up.... 1.) For the Air Sensor, is it normal for the switch to receive pressure to start up the heater? If so, what gives it the pressure required? A pump? The blower only seems to come on when it's hot. 2.) How does the blower turn on? With everything hooked up, I get 120v reading from all 5 wires coming off the blower. I see some "oil" thing attached below the blower, with some wires coming off it. Is this a heat activated switch? Thank you! mm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PoolsRMyLife Posted October 12, 2010 Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 The blower is two-stage. First stage is pre-ignition. Second stage is post-ignition. Keep in mind on this heater there is a delay after lighting before the second stage of the blower kicks in. Do not confuse this for not lighting and turn it off. Also, if heater hasn't been used in awhile, the heater will stop trying to ignite after three tries. You will need to turn it off, then on again to reset it. The symptom you are describing could be a flame sensor too. It will light, then shut right off. The flame sensor is not sending a signal that it senses flame for the gas valve to open all the way-which then sends a signal to the blower to start stage two. You need to check all controls (one at a time) before you blame the blower. Error codes (especially on this heater) are not always accurate. If you see evidence of water damage (calcium) on any of the controls, that control will be suspect. The switch you are describing in your number 2 sounds like a vacuum sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Match Posted October 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2010 For the blower, when should it come on (pre-ignition phase)? Should this happen once heat is requested? I'm starting to think my blower isn't working. Any way to confirm this is the problem? When it's all hooked up, I see 120v going to all 5 wires to the blower. This seems odd, not sour how the blower "turns on". If all 5 wires are hot and it's not working. Thanks for helping me troubleshoot this! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Match Posted December 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2010 Hi All, Hoping someone sees this and can answer my question... pretty please When does the blower turn on during the request for heat process? I see all 5 wires to my blower are hot, but the blower does not turn on. Help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Clown Posted December 13, 2010 Report Share Posted December 13, 2010 Once the heater gets a call for heat the blower should start within a few seconds. when the blower starts, the fan blowing air through the fire box, then out the flue, is creating a little pressure, and that is what satisfies the air switch. If your fan wont come on unless you jump the air switch, something is backward there. It's supposed to work the other way around, blower first then conformation to keep running after the blower satisfies the switch. Is it the air switch you had to jump? Or did i read it wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Match Posted December 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2010 Once the heater gets a call for heat the blower should start within a few seconds. when the blower starts, the fan blowing air through the fire box, then out the flue, is creating a little pressure, and that is what satisfies the air switch. If your fan wont come on unless you jump the air switch, something is backward there. It's supposed to work the other way around, blower first then conformation to keep running after the blower satisfies the switch. Is it the air switch you had to jump? Or did i read it wrong? I did more testing today, here is what happens. Heater is on, call for heat comes in, the unit clicks a few times (nothing more) then displays an error about airflow problems. The blower does not appear to be turning on. Taking a multimeter to the blower's wiring, I see 120v to all (5?) wires coming out of the circuit board that the blower connects to. all wires hot at 120v, and nothing turning...sounds like the blower died. Any ideas, or should I suck it up and buy a $400 blower? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Clown Posted December 23, 2010 Report Share Posted December 23, 2010 It does appear to be a blower. As long as your sure your'e getting voltage to the correct wires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Match Posted December 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2010 Thanks you for your help! Can anyone confirm that all 5 wires from the blower to the circuit board should be hot @ 120v? I'll try calling Jandy support too, it would be nice to confirm before buying the blower. Pools falling apart this month! First the heater, then the booster pump, now my chlorinator is complaining! It's going to be an expensive winter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Clown Posted December 23, 2010 Report Share Posted December 23, 2010 Jandy should be able to give you "voltage per pin" on the plug. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Match Posted December 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2010 Might have found the problem. Turns out the "voltage selector card" and corresponding slot were fried. This card was held down with a zip-tie, so it wasn't obvious without disassembling the card. I just ordered up a replacement card and power converter board, should be here by end-of-week. I'll update everyone if this is the issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Clown Posted December 28, 2010 Report Share Posted December 28, 2010 Keep in mind that the board in the picture could be the result of the problem, and not the problem itself. This board plugs into a slot, and i.e., creates a resistance or "pinch point" where excessive current draw, by maybe the blower motor will result in this. If you simply replace the board and socket, it may, or may not resolve this. Or may fix it until it burns through again. If you have an inductive amp meter, i would use it to check current draw (on the blower), when you first try to start it up again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Match Posted January 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2011 OK! Another week of troubleshooting and I found a new problem! The blower turns on OK when I apply power to it directly, and it operates within the normal AMP specs. Now, I've discovered the Fenwal is fried. The circuit board between F1 and F2 is totally gone, and the back of the Tstat is burnt. Time for a new Thermostat now! I currently have a E0264800. However, I don't see any online vendors selling this part number. I see a lot of R0456900, R0386800, R0408100 which claim to be for a Jandy LX heater. Does anyone know if these alternative part numbers will work OK? From my research, it looks like the R0386800 might be identical. Thanks for the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Clown Posted January 9, 2011 Report Share Posted January 9, 2011 A, (dare i say) quick call to Jandy should get you the right part number. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Match Posted January 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2011 Yep, that's on my agenda for Monday! Actually their email support has been very good, I'm impressed. Last week they provided me with a complete troubleshooting guide to the LXI system. If anyone else needs this, I posed it on Scribd. http://www.scribd.com/doc/46535982/Jandy-LXi-Troubleshooting-Guide Thanks Pool Clown! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Match Posted January 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2011 To help anyone else, the proper replacement part number is R0456900. Per Jandy Support, "While the E0264800 may be printed on the unit somewhere, this is not a valid part number for ordering purposes." They sent me the Installation and Operation manual for the heater, which lists all the part numbers. Let's see if this fixed it! Sigh.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Match Posted February 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2011 OK! This saga continues! Blower Working = Check Power Distro Board Replaced = Check Thermostat Working = Check (Found some fried bug guts burnt on the board, I think this is what fried everything) System now powers on, blower comes on...BUT the pressure switch isn't tripping now. I can get heat working if I jump it to 24v after the initial "startup"check process...so it's the pressure switch. I checked all tubes to make sure they are free and clear of bugs and webs...looks good. If I blow air into the pressure switch I can make it "work" (tested using a multimeter) So, any ideas? I may just buy a new switch, they arn't too much money on ebay. Thanks all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Clown Posted February 14, 2011 Report Share Posted February 14, 2011 I have had failed blowers that come on and, for the most part, sound OK, yet they weren't moving enough air to trip the air flow switch. If you can get an air switch inexpensively on e-bay, try that. But if it doesn't fix it, you may want to take a look at the blower again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert frank Posted November 29, 2019 Report Share Posted November 29, 2019 Hi all, I am having trouble with my ignition control. I enjoyed this posting, learned a bit, and became very hopeful a fix is around the corner. i tried the link to scribed but the manual is deleted. I know I come too late to the party but if anyone’s following this thread could you post a link for the heater diagnostics. ‘also if there Is manual/troubleshooting article I need that more than anything.thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baconator Posted July 3, 2020 Report Share Posted July 3, 2020 Jandy LXI heater. Board shows “remote tstat enabled”. thus the heater won’t come on. tried holding Menu and pool/spa buttons down -doesn’t allow me to reset or change anything but temp up/down. I can usually control the heater From inside wall panel or at the unit itself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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