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Pentair Ic20 Chlorine Generator


gmbird

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I have a pentair ic20 generator and can't keep chlorine in the pool. I had the cell replaced two weeks ago but can't seem to get it to work right, or at all. my pool is 16000 gal in ground, marcite. current readings

fc-.7

tc-.7

cc-0

ph-7.4

cal hard-240

alk-100

cya-8o

phos-300

salt-3700

can somebody give me any direction on whats going on.

I'm running the pump 9 hrs a day with generator on 100%

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I have a pentair ic20 generator and can't keep chlorine in the pool. I had the cell replaced two weeks ago but can't seem to get it to work right, or at all. my pool is 16000 gal in ground, marcite. current readings

fc-.7

tc-.7

can somebody give me any direction on whats going on.

I'm running the pump 9 hrs a day with generator on 100%

How are you testing the chlorine? If you are using DPD testing (test turnd red) there is a possibility that your chlorine is actually very high and the test is bleaching out. Try testing with an OTO test kit (one of those cheap two way test kits for chlorine and pH where the chlorine test turns shades of yellow). If it turns deep yellow, orange, or brown then your chlorine is actually very high and bleaching out the DPD test. If the color stays clear or only goes to a very pale yellow then you have a problem with the chlorine generation.

BTW, test strips can also bleach out at high chlorine levels.

A reading of .7 ppm indicates that you are using some sort of photometer or strip reader for testing. All photometers use DPD testing and do bleach out. Strip readers are not to be trusted, period.

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I have a pentair ic20 generator and can't keep chlorine in the pool. I had the cell replaced two weeks ago but can't seem to get it to work right, or at all. my pool is 16000 gal in ground, marcite. current readings

fc-.7

tc-.7

can somebody give me any direction on whats going on.

I'm running the pump 9 hrs a day with generator on 100%

How are you testing the chlorine? If you are using DPD testing (test turnd red) there is a possibility that your chlorine is actually very high and the test is bleaching out. Try testing with an OTO test kit (one of those cheap two way test kits for chlorine and pH where the chlorine test turns shades of yellow). If it turns deep yellow, orange, or brown then your chlorine is actually very high and bleaching out the DPD test. If the color stays clear or only goes to a very pale yellow then you have a problem with the chlorine generation.

BTW, test strips can also bleach out at high chlorine levels.

A reading of .7 ppm indicates that you are using some sort of photometer or strip reader for testing. All photometers use DPD testing and do bleach out. Strip readers are not to be trusted, period.

You should listen to Waterbear. My 16,500 gallon inground is equipped w/ an IC40, which has exactly twice the output/generating capacity (1.4 lbs chlorine/24 hours) as the IC20 (.7 lbs/24 hours). I do find myself adjusting the output incrementally every few days (I can adjust in 1% increments w/ my EasyTouch control panel), mainly due to varying water temperatures and CYA levels (the latter drops when I have to drain excess after heavy rains - which I've done several times this season in the StL area). That said, with an average CYA level of 60-70ppm I generally run my unit at 15-20% output on a 12 hour pump cycle (yes, I plan to invest in a variable speed pump next year) to maintain FC at 6-7ppm (higher than most but my kids spend alot of time in the pool, and the youngest isn't potty trained and - well, let's just say I've learned to check him every 15 mins after discovering soiled swim diapers more times than I care to tell this season). Anyway, based upon my notes you should be aiming for ~ 40% output on a 9-hour pump cycle to maintain FC at approximately 4-5 ppm (4 being 5% of your CYA level of 80). Given your CYA level of 80 (within the recommended range) minimizing your FC loss due to ultraviolet radiation, and a 9 hour pump cycle at 100% output, it's entirely possible that your FC has risen over time to levels sufficiently high to bleach out a DPD test (since you're producing some 250% of the chlorine your pool needs).

Of course, it could be something else, but try an OTO kit and report back.

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I have a pentair ic20 generator and can't keep chlorine in the pool. I had the cell replaced two weeks ago but can't seem to get it to work right, or at all. my pool is 16000 gal in ground, marcite. current readings

fc-.7

tc-.7

cc-0

ph-7.4

cal hard-240

alk-100

cya-8o

phos-300

salt-3700

can somebody give me any direction on whats going on.

I'm running the pump 9 hrs a day with generator on 100%

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I have a pentair ic20 generator and can't keep chlorine in the pool. I had the cell replaced two weeks ago but can't seem to get it to work right, or at all. my pool is 16000 gal in ground, marcite. current readings

fc-.7

tc-.7

cc-0

ph-7.4

cal hard-240

alk-100

cya-8o

phos-300

salt-3700

can somebody give me any direction on whats going on.

I'm running the pump 9 hrs a day with generator on 100%

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I have a pentair ic20 generator and can't keep chlorine in the pool. I had the cell replaced two weeks ago but can't seem to get it to work right, or at all. my pool is 16000 gal in ground, marcite. current readings

fc-.7

tc-.7

cc-0

ph-7.4

cal hard-240

alk-100

cya-8o

phos-300

salt-3700

can somebody give me any direction on whats going on.

I'm running the pump 9 hrs a day with generator on 100%

I had the water tested at two places, ace and leslies. I have both test dpd and oto, same results. I have put a chlorine puck in the skimmer and the level seems to be coming up. Do I have to use pucks all the time?

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I have a pentair ic20 generator and can't keep chlorine in the pool. I had the cell replaced two weeks ago but can't seem to get it to work right, or at all. my pool is 16000 gal in ground, marcite. current readings

fc-.7

tc-.7

cc-0

ph-7.4

cal hard-240

alk-100

cya-8o

phos-300

salt-3700

can somebody give me any direction on whats going on.

I'm running the pump 9 hrs a day with generator on 100%

I had the water tested at two places, ace and leslies. I have both test dpd and oto, same results. I have put a chlorine puck in the skimmer and the level seems to be coming up. Do I have to use pucks all the time?

There is no way an OTO test can give you a reading of .7 ppm and OTO ONLY tests TC so you would not get FC or CC readings from an OTO test. Most Leslie's use Taylor testing and most Ace use LaMotte Waterlink Express testing. Your number are from a Waterlink test and that is a DPD test. Leslie's also uses DPD testing, usually Taylor waterlabs. Both LaMotte and Taylor DPD tests bleach out.

What color did the OTO test turn? Numbers don't matter, I just want to know if it was clear, pale yellow, yellow, deep yellow orange, or brown. We are first trying to determine if your cell is generating chlorine.

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If you don't remember the color of the strip, try this - go out to your pool at night, turn on your pump and pool light, wait a minute and confirm that the salt, power, cell and flow lights on the IC20 are all green. If the cell light is off then the cell is either resting (the cell never rests if the output is set to 100%) or the cell is in a normal, periodic self-cleaning mode. If all 4 lights are green, go to the pool's edge and you should see a cloudy stream coming from your returns. If you see that stream then your cell is working and producing chlorine (along w/ the tiny bubbles of hydrogen gas coming from your returns).

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What do your LEDs indicate?

Salt: Solid green, flashing green or red?

Power: Green or red?

Cell: Solid green, flashing green or no light?

Flow: Green or red?

I have put a chlorine puck in the skimmer and the level seems to be coming up. Do I have to use pucks all the time?

Don't put chlorine tabs in your skimmer. Use liquid chlorine if you need to add additional chlorine beyond what your unit will do.

I had the cell replaced two weeks ago but can't seem to get it to work right, or at all.

Why did the cell need to be replaced?

How old is your pool? How many hours has the cell been used?

IECG Usage Hours Meter

The IECG provides a built-in cell “usage hours” meter that reports how many hours IntelliChlor has been operating. The IECG is designed to operate for approximately 10,000 hours before replacement is needed or roughly five (5) years of average use.

To access the system status mode:

1. Press and hold the MORE button for three (3) seconds until the lights scroll across the unit.

2. One (1) of the five (5) Sanitizer Output LED indicators (20%, 40%, 60%, 80% and 100%) will be lit, indicating the hours of usage. The Output LEDs are as follows:

• 2000 hours (20% LED on)

• 4000 hours (40% LED on)

• 6000 hours (60% LED on)

• 8000 hours (80% LED on)

• 10,000 hours (100% LED on)

http://www.pentairpool.com/pdfs/IntelliChlorIG.pdf

Pull the cell and inspect for scaling.

http://www.pentairpool.com/pdfs/IntelliChlorOM.pdf

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Just a simple note from a pool professional, you might consider asking your pool store to test for Phosphates in your pool water. For whatever reason, phosphates play havoc with salt generators when it comes to pool chlorination. If you have no reading and your cell seems to be working fine, then their is likely a phosphate problem. Are you having any algae growth on the walls of the pool before the floor? This is another indication of phosphates in your pool. Just some thoughts for the discussion. Thanks

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Just a simple note from a pool professional, you might consider asking your pool store to test for Phosphates in your pool water. For whatever reason, phosphates play havoc with salt generators when it comes to pool chlorination. If you have no reading and your cell seems to be working fine, then their is likely a phosphate problem. Are you having any algae growth on the walls of the pool before the floor? This is another indication of phosphates in your pool. Just some thoughts for the discussion. Thanks

It's not phosphates per se that are causing the problem but the nascent algae bloom that is easily corrected by shocking and then keeping the fc a bit higher! Phosphate removers are an unnecessary expense and bother BUT are a great money maker for pool stores and pool sevice companies--another tip from a pool professional!

Along with phosphates, nitrates are also a problem and they go hand in hand since both are algae food BUT we normally do not test for nitrates BECAUSE there is no product you can be sold to lower or remove them. Only by replacing water with nitrate free water can then be removed! NO profit in that for product manufacturers and pool stores, is there? Interesting, no?rolleyes.gif

How in the world did we ever keep our pools algae free before all the lanthanum based 'phosphate removers' hit the market a few years back and phosphates in the water became a 'problem'?huh.gifrolleyes.gif We used chlorine!wink.gif

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I have a pentair ic20 generator and can't keep chlorine in the pool. I had the cell replaced two weeks ago but can't seem to get it to work right, or at all. my pool is 16000 gal in ground, marcite. current readings

fc-.7

tc-.7

cc-0

ph-7.4

cal hard-240

alk-100

cya-8o

phos-300

salt-3700

can somebody give me any direction on whats going on.

I'm running the pump 9 hrs a day with generator on 100%

I had the water tested at two places, ace and leslies. I have both test dpd and oto, same results. I have put a chlorine puck in the skimmer and the level seems to be coming up. Do I have to use pucks all the time?

There is no way an OTO test can give you a reading of .7 ppm and OTO ONLY tests TC so you would not get FC or CC readings from an OTO test. Most Leslie's use Taylor testing and most Ace use LaMotte Waterlink Express testing. Your number are from a Waterlink test and that is a DPD test. Leslie's also uses DPD testing, usually Taylor waterlabs. Both LaMotte and Taylor DPD tests bleach out.

What color did the OTO test turn? Numbers don't matter, I just want to know if it was clear, pale yellow, yellow, deep yellow orange, or brown. We are first trying to determine if your cell is generating chlorine.

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I have a pentair ic20 generator and can't keep chlorine in the pool. I had the cell replaced two weeks ago but can't seem to get it to work right, or at all. my pool is 16000 gal in ground, marcite. current readings

fc-.7

tc-.7

cc-0

ph-7.4

cal hard-240

alk-100

cya-8o

phos-300

salt-3700

can somebody give me any direction on whats going on.

I'm running the pump 9 hrs a day with generator on 100%

I had the water tested at two places, ace and leslies. I have both test dpd and oto, same results. I have put a chlorine puck in the skimmer and the level seems to be coming up. Do I have to use pucks all the time?

There is no way an OTO test can give you a reading of .7 ppm and OTO ONLY tests TC so you would not get FC or CC readings from an OTO test. Most Leslie's use Taylor testing and most Ace use LaMotte Waterlink Express testing. Your number are from a Waterlink test and that is a DPD test. Leslie's also uses DPD testing, usually Taylor waterlabs. Both LaMotte and Taylor DPD tests bleach out.

What color did the OTO test turn? Numbers don't matter, I just want to know if it was clear, pale yellow, yellow, deep yellow orange, or brown. We are first trying to determine if your cell is generating chlorine.

The water turned a very,very light yellow

I tested the water right out of the return,OTO, and it turned brite yellow.

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What do your LEDs indicate?

Salt: Solid green, flashing green or red?

Power: Green or red?

Cell: Solid green, flashing green or no light?

Flow: Green or red?

I have put a chlorine puck in the skimmer and the level seems to be coming up. Do I have to use pucks all the time?

Don't put chlorine tabs in your skimmer. Use liquid chlorine if you need to add additional chlorine beyond what your unit will do.

I had the cell replaced two weeks ago but can't seem to get it to work right, or at all.

Why did the cell need to be replaced?

How old is your pool? How many hours has the cell been used?

IECG Usage Hours Meter

The IECG provides a built-in cell “usage hours” meter that reports how many hours IntelliChlor has been operating. The IECG is designed to operate for approximately 10,000 hours before replacement is needed or roughly five (5) years of average use.

To access the system status mode:

1. Press and hold the MORE button for three (3) seconds until the lights scroll across the unit.

2. One (1) of the five (5) Sanitizer Output LED indicators (20%, 40%, 60%, 80% and 100%) will be lit, indicating the hours of usage. The Output LEDs are as follows:

• 2000 hours (20% LED on)

• 4000 hours (40% LED on)

• 6000 hours (60% LED on)

• 8000 hours (80% LED on)

• 10,000 hours (100% LED on)

http://www.pentairpool.com/pdfs/IntelliChlorIG.pdf

Pull the cell and inspect for scaling.

http://www.pentairpool.com/pdfs/IntelliChlorOM.pdf

The cell was replaced because the cell light wasn't coming on at all. Now all the lights are solid green.

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The water turned a very,very light yellow

which means the chlorine is low so look for a cell malfunction

The cell was replaced because the cell light wasn't coming on at all. Now all the lights are solid green.

this does not mean there is not a malfunction in your unit.

to check this run the system so it is generating chlorine and collect a sample from withing one of your returns and test it with OTO, color shold be deep yellow. Even better, collect a sample from the cell itself IMMEDIATELY after shutting off the pump by removing the cell. It should be deep yellow to brown if everything is working.

Once we determine if the system is working or not we can continue from there.

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I have a pentair ic20 generator and can't keep chlorine in the pool. I had the cell replaced two weeks ago but can't seem to get it to work right, or at all. my pool is 16000 gal in ground, marcite. current readings

fc-.7

tc-.7

can somebody give me any direction on whats going on.

I'm running the pump 9 hrs a day with generator on 100%

How are you testing the chlorine? If you are using DPD testing (test turnd red) there is a possibility that your chlorine is actually very high and the test is bleaching out. Try testing with an OTO test kit (one of those cheap two way test kits for chlorine and pH where the chlorine test turns shades of yellow). If it turns deep yellow, orange, or brown then your chlorine is actually very high and bleaching out the DPD test. If the color stays clear or only goes to a very pale yellow then you have a problem with the chlorine generation.

BTW, test strips can also bleach out at high chlorine levels.

A reading of .7 ppm indicates that you are using some sort of photometer or strip reader for testing. All photometers use DPD testing and do bleach out. Strip readers are not to be trusted, period.

You should listen to Waterbear. My 16,500 gallon inground is equipped w/ an IC40, which has exactly twice the output/generating capacity (1.4 lbs chlorine/24 hours) as the IC20 (.7 lbs/24 hours). I do find myself adjusting the output incrementally every few days (I can adjust in 1% increments w/ my EasyTouch control panel), mainly due to varying water temperatures and CYA levels (the latter drops when I have to drain excess after heavy rains - which I've done several times this season in the StL area). That said, with an average CYA level of 60-70ppm I generally run my unit at 15-20% output on a 12 hour pump cycle (yes, I plan to invest in a variable speed pump next year) to maintain FC at 6-7ppm (higher than most but my kids spend alot of time in the pool, and the youngest isn't potty trained and - well, let's just say I've learned to check him every 15 mins after discovering soiled swim diapers more times than I care to tell this season). Anyway, based upon my notes you should be aiming for ~ 40% output on a 9-hour pump cycle to maintain FC at approximately 4-5 ppm (4 being 5% of your CYA level of 80). Given your CYA level of 80 (within the recommended range) minimizing your FC loss due to ultraviolet radiation, and a 9 hour pump cycle at 100% output, it's entirely possible that your FC has risen over time to levels sufficiently high to bleach out a DPD test (since you're producing some 250% of the chlorine your pool needs).

Of course, it could be something else, but try an OTO kit and report back.

OTO turned the water a very light yellow,almost clear.

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I have a pentair ic20 generator and can't keep chlorine in the pool. I had the cell replaced two weeks ago but can't seem to get it to work right, or at all. my pool is 16000 gal in ground, marcite. current readings

fc-.7

tc-.7

can somebody give me any direction on whats going on.

I'm running the pump 9 hrs a day with generator on 100%

How are you testing the chlorine? If you are using DPD testing (test turnd red) there is a possibility that your chlorine is actually very high and the test is bleaching out. Try testing with an OTO test kit (one of those cheap two way test kits for chlorine and pH where the chlorine test turns shades of yellow). If it turns deep yellow, orange, or brown then your chlorine is actually very high and bleaching out the DPD test. If the color stays clear or only goes to a very pale yellow then you have a problem with the chlorine generation.

BTW, test strips can also bleach out at high chlorine levels.

A reading of .7 ppm indicates that you are using some sort of photometer or strip reader for testing. All photometers use DPD testing and do bleach out. Strip readers are not to be trusted, period.

You should listen to Waterbear. My 16,500 gallon inground is equipped w/ an IC40, which has exactly twice the output/generating capacity (1.4 lbs chlorine/24 hours) as the IC20 (.7 lbs/24 hours). I do find myself adjusting the output incrementally every few days (I can adjust in 1% increments w/ my EasyTouch control panel), mainly due to varying water temperatures and CYA levels (the latter drops when I have to drain excess after heavy rains - which I've done several times this season in the StL area). That said, with an average CYA level of 60-70ppm I generally run my unit at 15-20% output on a 12 hour pump cycle (yes, I plan to invest in a variable speed pump next year) to maintain FC at 6-7ppm (higher than most but my kids spend alot of time in the pool, and the youngest isn't potty trained and - well, let's just say I've learned to check him every 15 mins after discovering soiled swim diapers more times than I care to tell this season). Anyway, based upon my notes you should be aiming for ~ 40% output on a 9-hour pump cycle to maintain FC at approximately 4-5 ppm (4 being 5% of your CYA level of 80). Given your CYA level of 80 (within the recommended range) minimizing your FC loss due to ultraviolet radiation, and a 9 hour pump cycle at 100% output, it's entirely possible that your FC has risen over time to levels sufficiently high to bleach out a DPD test (since you're producing some 250% of the chlorine your pool needs).

Of course, it could be something else, but try an OTO kit and report back.

OTO turned the water a very light yellow,almost clear.

This is water from the cell? Are they any calcium deposits in the cell? Have you tried cleaning the cell with acid? If these don't work then it seems we have confirmed you have a malfuntioning unit. It could be the cell , the flow switch, or it could be the control unit, which is integrated into the cell, or the power supply. I would call back whoever replaced the unit for you. Did you originally have the IC20 or is that what they replaced your defecive unit with? On a pool your size (16k) I would have used an IC40.

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I have a pentair ic20 generator and can't keep chlorine in the pool. I had the cell replaced two weeks ago but can't seem to get it to work right, or at all. my pool is 16000 gal in ground, marcite. current readings

fc-.7

tc-.7

can somebody give me any direction on whats going on.

I'm running the pump 9 hrs a day with generator on 100%

How are you testing the chlorine? If you are using DPD testing (test turnd red) there is a possibility that your chlorine is actually very high and the test is bleaching out. Try testing with an OTO test kit (one of those cheap two way test kits for chlorine and pH where the chlorine test turns shades of yellow). If it turns deep yellow, orange, or brown then your chlorine is actually very high and bleaching out the DPD test. If the color stays clear or only goes to a very pale yellow then you have a problem with the chlorine generation.

BTW, test strips can also bleach out at high chlorine levels.

A reading of .7 ppm indicates that you are using some sort of photometer or strip reader for testing. All photometers use DPD testing and do bleach out. Strip readers are not to be trusted, period.

You should listen to Waterbear. My 16,500 gallon inground is equipped w/ an IC40, which has exactly twice the output/generating capacity (1.4 lbs chlorine/24 hours) as the IC20 (.7 lbs/24 hours). I do find myself adjusting the output incrementally every few days (I can adjust in 1% increments w/ my EasyTouch control panel), mainly due to varying water temperatures and CYA levels (the latter drops when I have to drain excess after heavy rains - which I've done several times this season in the StL area). That said, with an average CYA level of 60-70ppm I generally run my unit at 15-20% output on a 12 hour pump cycle (yes, I plan to invest in a variable speed pump next year) to maintain FC at 6-7ppm (higher than most but my kids spend alot of time in the pool, and the youngest isn't potty trained and - well, let's just say I've learned to check him every 15 mins after discovering soiled swim diapers more times than I care to tell this season). Anyway, based upon my notes you should be aiming for ~ 40% output on a 9-hour pump cycle to maintain FC at approximately 4-5 ppm (4 being 5% of your CYA level of 80). Given your CYA level of 80 (within the recommended range) minimizing your FC loss due to ultraviolet radiation, and a 9 hour pump cycle at 100% output, it's entirely possible that your FC has risen over time to levels sufficiently high to bleach out a DPD test (since you're producing some 250% of the chlorine your pool needs).

Of course, it could be something else, but try an OTO kit and report back.

OTO turned the water a very light yellow,almost clear.

This is water from the cell? Are they any calcium deposits in the cell? Have you tried cleaning the cell with acid? If these don't work then it seems we have confirmed you have a malfuntioning unit. It could be the cell , the flow switch, or it could be the control unit, which is integrated into the cell, or the power supply. I would call back whoever replaced the unit for you. Did you originally have the IC20 or is that what they replaced your defecive unit with? On a pool your size (16k) I would have used an IC40.

I check the cell,clean, tested the water from the return, bright yellow.

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I have a pentair ic20 generator and can't keep chlorine in the pool. I had the cell replaced two weeks ago but can't seem to get it to work right, or at all. my pool is 16000 gal in ground, marcite. current readings

fc-.7

tc-.7

can somebody give me any direction on whats going on.

I'm running the pump 9 hrs a day with generator on 100%

How are you testing the chlorine? If you are using DPD testing (test turnd red) there is a possibility that your chlorine is actually very high and the test is bleaching out. Try testing with an OTO test kit (one of those cheap two way test kits for chlorine and pH where the chlorine test turns shades of yellow). If it turns deep yellow, orange, or brown then your chlorine is actually very high and bleaching out the DPD test. If the color stays clear or only goes to a very pale yellow then you have a problem with the chlorine generation.

BTW, test strips can also bleach out at high chlorine levels.

A reading of .7 ppm indicates that you are using some sort of photometer or strip reader for testing. All photometers use DPD testing and do bleach out. Strip readers are not to be trusted, period.

You should listen to Waterbear. My 16,500 gallon inground is equipped w/ an IC40, which has exactly twice the output/generating capacity (1.4 lbs chlorine/24 hours) as the IC20 (.7 lbs/24 hours). I do find myself adjusting the output incrementally every few days (I can adjust in 1% increments w/ my EasyTouch control panel), mainly due to varying water temperatures and CYA levels (the latter drops when I have to drain excess after heavy rains - which I've done several times this season in the StL area). That said, with an average CYA level of 60-70ppm I generally run my unit at 15-20% output on a 12 hour pump cycle (yes, I plan to invest in a variable speed pump next year) to maintain FC at 6-7ppm (higher than most but my kids spend alot of time in the pool, and the youngest isn't potty trained and - well, let's just say I've learned to check him every 15 mins after discovering soiled swim diapers more times than I care to tell this season). Anyway, based upon my notes you should be aiming for ~ 40% output on a 9-hour pump cycle to maintain FC at approximately 4-5 ppm (4 being 5% of your CYA level of 80). Given your CYA level of 80 (within the recommended range) minimizing your FC loss due to ultraviolet radiation, and a 9 hour pump cycle at 100% output, it's entirely possible that your FC has risen over time to levels sufficiently high to bleach out a DPD test (since you're producing some 250% of the chlorine your pool needs).

Of course, it could be something else, but try an OTO kit and report back.

OTO turned the water a very light yellow,almost clear.

This is water from the cell? Are they any calcium deposits in the cell? Have you tried cleaning the cell with acid? If these don't work then it seems we have confirmed you have a malfuntioning unit. It could be the cell , the flow switch, or it could be the control unit, which is integrated into the cell, or the power supply. I would call back whoever replaced the unit for you. Did you originally have the IC20 or is that what they replaced your defecive unit with? On a pool your size (16k) I would have used an IC40.

I check the cell,clean, tested the water from the return, bright yellow.

Your cell was just scaled. It should be working now. Shock the pool with bleach to get a jump on the chlorine so the SWG can catch up and post a new full set of test results as soon as the shock drops to 5 ppm FC.

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Waterbear, A trick i use is to loosen the down stream union of the cell, just enough to make it dribble, and take your water sample from that. It pretty much rules out anything that might dilute your test sample (taking from return, or trying to take a sample from the cell just after you turn it off). You just have to remember to take into consideration of any Cl already in the pool.

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Waterbear, A trick i use is to loosen the down stream union of the cell, just enough to make it dribble, and take your water sample from that. It pretty much rules out anything that might dilute your test sample (taking from return, or trying to take a sample from the cell just after you turn it off). You just have to remember to take into consideration of any Cl already in the pool.

Excellent tip!

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