Pool Clown Posted August 1, 2010 Report Share Posted August 1, 2010 by mistake I turned the shut the water completely then the service light came on Huh? Say that again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryon Posted August 1, 2010 Report Share Posted August 1, 2010 Please note that running the unit at a higher percent,and 8 hours pump run time, uses up more "life" of the cell than if you ran it at lower percent for the same 8 hour run time. So if you are running high percent with high(pump)run times, death will occur sooner to the cell. The cell does not "wear" while its on the shelf. As long as you don't store chems on the shelf with it. I believe the cell life is like 10,000 hrs. That number could be wrong. I Don't remember. I don't pour over manuals to remember those kinds of specs. i just try and repair these things. Pool Clown, I would like to thank you for your time providing input to my problem. I plumbed in the new generator cell yesterday and everything is working fine now. I read through this thread again and you provided some info on cell life that brought a couple questions to my mind. It looks like I may be causing accelerated wear of my cell by the way I am running it. I run the pool 12 hours a day, at 70% for about a 5ppm test reading. I keep a close eye on water quality with full tests at the store twice a month and test strips for the critical readings a couple of times a week. I worry about green pools so my question is, am I over doing the chlorine reading and causing accelerated cell wear? I am being told that I need to run my pool 12 hours a day in the summer, is that really necessary? I do not shut my pool down in the winter, I maintain water quality and run the pool 2 hours a night through the winter. Water temps fall to the mid 40's during the coldest part of winter. Do you see any problem with this and at what water temp should I not be concerned about algae growth (i.e. turn the generator off)? Off topic. I have a Paramount ClearO3 ozone generator that has a bad transformer in it. Replacement ballast is almost the same price as sending it in for a full rebuild/upgrade (paramount tells me that there are 20 upgrades from the unit I have). I already bought a new bulb, verified the bad ballast (secondary windings are open and ballast case is burnt). Before I throw down $200to paramount, my question is are these ozone generators for real of just a bunch of BS marketing crap? For others info. I purchased my Aqua pure 1400 chlorine generator cell for $497 through pool supply world Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Clown Posted August 1, 2010 Report Share Posted August 1, 2010 It looks like I may be causing accelerated wear of my cell by the way I am running it. I run the pool 12 hours a day, at 70% for about a 5ppm test reading. I keep a close eye on water quality with full tests at the store twice a month and test strips for the critical readings a couple of times a week. Test strips should not be used for your "critical" readings. They are not always accurate (too many environmental variables). Drop test kits are more accurate, take the time to pinch the bottle... I worry about green pools so my question is, am I over doing the chlorine reading and causing accelerated cell wear? I am being told that I need to run my pool 12 hours a day in the summer, is that really necessary? There is the recommended turn over (run time), and then there is what actually works for your specific pool. There are people here that swear by the recommended, and there are the ones that experiment with how short of run time they can get, and maintain a crystal pool. Since every pool is different, light, heat, wind, plumbing, etc. You should know (in time) what works best for your pool. I do not shut my pool down in the winter, I maintain water quality and run the pool 2 hours a night through the winter. Water temps fall to the mid 40's during the coldest part of winter. Do you see any problem with this and at what water temp should I not be concerned about algae growth (i.e. turn the generator off)? When the temp drops that low, typically, the unit will shut itself off. Off topic. I have a Paramount ClearO3 ozone generator that has a bad transformer in it. Replacement ballast is almost the same price as sending it in for a full rebuild/upgrade (paramount tells me that there are 20 upgrades from the unit I have). I already bought a new bulb, verified the bad ballast (secondary windings are open and ballast case is burnt). Before I throw down $200to paramount, my question is are these ozone generators for real of just a bunch of BS marketing crap? Honestly? (Sorry Paramount) I haven't seen the blue light on any of those units that have been out there for any reasonable amount of time, say longer than several months. For others info. I purchased my Aqua pure 1400 chlorine generator cell for $497 through pool supply world Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dmaster Posted August 1, 2010 Report Share Posted August 1, 2010 In my pool I have the option of having a spill over the spa into the pool or I can turn the valve and the spill will stop and only the water will circulate to the pool. I only stop the spill when I want to use the spa so that the water from the pool will not mix with the spa water. When I was turning the valve, instead of turning the spa off I turned it where shut both the pool and spa, that is when the service light came on. Sos far I removed the sensor I cleaned it, I removed the cell, cleaned it with a hose and the light still on. The flow light is off and I'm still getting the 172 and 181 error Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Clown Posted August 1, 2010 Report Share Posted August 1, 2010 181 is a failure code. Unfortunately you will need a new sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbosco7 Posted September 9, 2010 Report Share Posted September 9, 2010 Hi All, I also have a jandy aquapure 1400. It's about 4 years old. I am getting error codes 172 and 185 which I know are related to the flow sensor. My question is this: will a faulty sensor prevent all production of chlorine? And , is there any way to bypass the sensor altogether? I have been struggling with green algae on the bottom and side walls for about 12 days now. I have shocked it twice in that span. The water is still clear and that is why I am questioning the chlorine production of a faulty sensor. Thanks in advance for your advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Clown Posted September 9, 2010 Report Share Posted September 9, 2010 My question is this: will a faulty sensor prevent all production of chlorine? And , is there any way to bypass the sensor altogether? Yes, and No respectively. Sorry, you will need a new sensor to begin production again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbosco7 Posted September 9, 2010 Report Share Posted September 9, 2010 Thanks, Pool Clown. I'll let you know how it plays out after I install the new sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socaljoe Posted September 9, 2010 Report Share Posted September 9, 2010 He tried the new flow sensor and it didnt help. Did it work for a day and then quit? Or it never worked? He assumed it was the front board but after testing the motherboard Did you mean the front board? as per the manual, it seems to check out. I called Zodiac and they confirmed that the numbers I got from the test were ok. Thanks, Joe Hello Pool Clown, thank you for being so helpful to everyone. I'm sorry for the delayed reply but for some reason I did not get an email informing me of a reply, however, i did get one on your first post. So not sure what happened. Anyway, he said that it did not change anything immediately when he installed it. It never worked. So he took it out and put back the old one. He thought for sure it was the sensor. Maybe the new sensor was defective? I guess it's possible. Sorry, I meant to say front board. I guess I'm working on computers too much here at work. I emailed Zodiac again and I asked them given the situation, what they thought could be wrong. They said if we replaced the flow sensor and i still get no flow that it must be the front board. Strange that the front board passed the diagnostic tests. Anyway, the pool guy is going to come back and try another flow sensor just to make sure. Thanks again for all the help, I'll update you next week after he tries another flow sensor. Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socaljoe Posted September 9, 2010 Report Share Posted September 9, 2010 He tried the new flow sensor and it didnt help. Did it work for a day and then quit? Or it never worked? He assumed it was the front board but after testing the motherboard Did you mean the front board? as per the manual, it seems to check out. I called Zodiac and they confirmed that the numbers I got from the test were ok. Thanks, Joe Hello Pool Clown, thank you for being so helpful to everyone. I'm sorry for the delayed reply but for some reason I did not get an email informing me of a reply, however, i did get one on your first post. So not sure what happened. Anyway, he said that it did not change anything immediately when he installed it. It never worked. So he took it out and put back the old one. He thought for sure it was the sensor. Maybe the new sensor was defective? I guess it's possible. Sorry, I meant to say front board. I guess I'm working on computers too much here at work. I emailed Zodiac again and I asked them given the situation, what they thought could be wrong. They said if we replaced the flow sensor and i still get no flow that it must be the front board. Strange that the front board passed the diagnostic tests. Anyway, the pool guy is going to come back and try another flow sensor just to make sure. Thanks again for all the help, I'll update you next week after he tries another flow sensor. Joe Hello All, I thought I would update everyone on my situation, just in case others find it helpful. Well, I replaced the flow sensor with another new flow sensor and I finally got a flow reading. However, now I got a low salt reading on the aquapure (1.4gpl) and thus it would not produce chlorine. I had the water tested and it showed the salinity to be 3.0 gpl. So at this point I was very confused because I had already tested the front board. Anyway, I decided to test the frontboard again because Zodiac said if it's not the flow sensor, it must be the frontboard. So I tested the frontboard again and this time it failed the salinity test. I don't really get it. The only thing I can think is that the frontboard failed between the 1st time I tested and now. (about 2 weeks) So I ordered a new frontboard and replaced it. After that everything worked perfect and it has been working fine for the last week. So I guess the flow sensor was initially bad and then the frontboard went bad after the initial testing. Very strange. Thank you to pool clown for his assistance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Clown Posted September 9, 2010 Report Share Posted September 9, 2010 Thanks for posting the experience, I'm sure someone will benefit from it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socaljoe Posted September 9, 2010 Report Share Posted September 9, 2010 Thanks for posting the experience, I'm sure someone will benefit from it. Thank you for your help. I do have to say, flow sensors going bad, front board going bad, I just don't have a lot of faith in the AquaPure system as far as reliability. I have a small pool (10k gallons) and the Aquapure runs at 30% most of the time for about 6 hours. The Aquapure unit is inside a really nice pool shed so it is protected from sun and rain. Frontboard going bad after 3 years? Seems like they could make these things a little better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Clown Posted September 9, 2010 Report Share Posted September 9, 2010 Did you at some point, or your pool guy, try to recalibrate the salinity sensor (before it was replaced)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socaljoe Posted September 9, 2010 Report Share Posted September 9, 2010 Did you at some point, or your pool guy, try to recalibrate the salinity sensor (before it was replaced)? No, we never tried recalibrating the salinity sensor. When we got the low salt reading after replacing the flow sensor, I then rechecked the frontboard and it failed the salinity test. I also had the water checked and it was reading 3.0 gpl but the the aquapure was reading 1.4, so it was way off. So I replaced the front board and now it reads 3.0 gpl and everything works fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbosco7 Posted September 10, 2010 Report Share Posted September 10, 2010 I was getting codes 172 and 185. Replaced the sensor. Now I am getting error code 120. Cleaned cell with acid wash 4:1 ratio. Still get error. Am I checking voltage at cell and backboard next? What should I do if the voltage is right at these check points? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Clown Posted September 10, 2010 Report Share Posted September 10, 2010 How old is the cell? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbosco7 Posted September 11, 2010 Report Share Posted September 11, 2010 The cell is in its fourth year. 33,000 gallon pool. runs at or near 100% most of the season, which is 5 1/2 months long. Solar heated pool on Long Island. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Clown Posted September 11, 2010 Report Share Posted September 11, 2010 Sounds like the cell is done. Four years at 100% is actually pretty good. A 120 code may, or may not halt production. I would run it till your'e getting no Cl at all. Save up during the winter for a new cell... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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