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Second Aquarite Unit Really Neccesary


JAAS

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Hi guys/girls, hope everyone is doing fine.

I'm considering changing my pool to a salt system. Only problem is that it is a very big pool..

At 20' x 40' and 4'- 10' deep I'm calculating about 42800Gallons..

I've seen the Aqua Rite system but the TCell 15, which seems to be the biggest capacity cell, is for pools up to 40k gallons.. and I've read the manuals and it states that for larger pools to get an additional system.. smallest one is listed for 15k gallons.

My question is... is it really necessary to add a second unit for those extra 2,800 gallons? Or can a single Tcell15 handle the job?

I'm really tired of fighting with chems.

Thanks in advance..

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Hi guys/girls, hope everyone is doing fine.

I'm considering changing my pool to a salt system. Only problem is that it is a very big pool..

At 20' x 40' and 4'- 10' deep I'm calculating about 42800Gallons..

I've seen the Aqua Rite system but the TCell 15, which seems to be the biggest capacity cell, is for pools up to 40k gallons.. and I've read the manuals and it states that for larger pools to get an additional system.. smallest one is listed for 15k gallons.

My question is... is it really necessary to add a second unit for those extra 2,800 gallons? Or can a single Tcell15 handle the job?

I'm really tired of fighting with chems.

Thanks in advance..

That's a tuff one. My knowledge of Aqua Rite systems is there seems to be extra capacity built in to the units. Ones I installed or have checked up on I have yet to see one with dial above 50%. I don't have a definite answer and no notes from the training class about this, they really don't won't to tell people if the 40k unit is rated up that.

If you have enough room install the one use it and see how it does and then add another if needed.

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I don't get a lot of call for dual systems either, but the ones i do see have equal sized units together. The advice when sizing for one cell is to over rate the unit for the pool. So if you were to get two t cell 15's you would be able to run them both at a lower production level, which will lengthen the life of the cell(s).

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Hi guys/girls, hope everyone is doing fine.

I'm considering changing my pool to a salt system. Only problem is that it is a very big pool..

At 20' x 40' and 4'- 10' deep I'm calculating about 42800Gallons..

I've seen the Aqua Rite system but the TCell 15, which seems to be the biggest capacity cell, is for pools up to 40k gallons.. and I've read the manuals and it states that for larger pools to get an additional system.. smallest one is listed for 15k gallons.

My question is... is it really necessary to add a second unit for those extra 2,800 gallons? Or can a single Tcell15 handle the job?

I'm really tired of fighting with chems.

Thanks in advance..

Your best bet is to go with a Pentair Intellichlor Salt system. I am a service & repair tech and have found these to be the most reliable. You need to also think about the time you have to run your pool as the pool only generates sanitizer when the pump is running. I would do 1 system and in the dead of summer you can add a little chlorine if needed but if you run it enough it should not be a problem. Salt systems only draw back is that you will always be battling the ph levels in the pool but adding acid is very easy.

www.poolaidman.com for low prices

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I agree with Pool Clown. It's always better to over-size a cell. If you're looking to minimize your chemistry efforts, check out the Aqua Rite Pro with Sense & Dispense. S & D is a set of probes for pH and ORP which when coupled with the "AQL-CHEM2" ph dispense module, will automatically lower your pH with CO2 or Acid feed. ORP, if you're not familiar, stands for Oxidation Reduction Potential, in laymans terms it is a measure of your active sanitizer. This will legnthen the life of your cell because the cell only makes chlorine when it needs to, automatically. I have this system on my pool in the Northeast and last year, from April to Thanksgiving, I used 1 1/2 (20lb) CO2 tanks, keeping my Alkalinity at 80. CO2 is available at any beverage distributor or welding supply. :)

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Just got a deal for a full system with Tcell15 for just $700!!

Will try that first.

Thanks everyone

Now.. off to get a truckload of salt..

Don't go crazy and add all the salt at one time. add 3/4 of and let it circulate for at least 24 hours. Look at the reading in the box and get your self a good salt water tester then add more if needed. It is always easier to add more then if get salt level to high

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Just got a deal for a full system with Tcell15 for just $700!!

Will try that first.

Thanks everyone

Now.. off to get a truckload of salt..

Don't go crazy and add all the salt at one time. add 3/4 of and let it circulate for at least 24 hours. Look at the reading in the box and get your self a good salt water tester then add more if needed. It is always easier to add more then if get salt level to high

Thanks for the tip.. thought about that.. only I thought about half..

42000gallons.. should be about 20 salt bags right?

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ALWAYS test your existing salt level first. Then refer to the chart that comes with the unit to add the required amount to bring it up to 3200ppm. Save 2 or 3 bags and let it run for 24 hours. Then add the rest, referring again to the chart. If you over salt you'll have to drain & refill to lower it. Then bring your Cyanuric Acid up to 80 ppm. Better test for Phosphates also since your cell is under sized. Use Phos-X or No Phos to make sure the level is Zero.

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ALWAYS test your existing salt level first. Then refer to the chart that comes with the unit to add the required amount to bring it up to 3200ppm. Save 2 or 3 bags and let it run for 24 hours. Then add the rest, referring again to the chart. If you over salt you'll have to drain & refill to lower it. Then bring your Cyanuric Acid up to 80 ppm. Better test for Phosphates also since your cell is under sized. Use Phos-X or No Phos to make sure the level is Zero.

Lol.. just when I tought things where becoming easier.. :(

I've never tested for phosphates.. I don't even think I have a kit to test for that..

I iknow I need to buy a kit to test for CYA and another for salt... which are from what I understand from reading the forums (please correct me if wrong) are the two most important things to keep an eye on with SWG pools.

I already have one for ph/cl/total alk/acid demand

I'm assuming another kit entirely different is needed for phosphates right?

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ALWAYS test your existing salt level first. Then refer to the chart that comes with the unit to add the required amount to bring it up to 3200ppm. Save 2 or 3 bags and let it run for 24 hours. Then add the rest, referring again to the chart. If you over salt you'll have to drain & refill to lower it. Then bring your Cyanuric Acid up to 80 ppm. Better test for Phosphates also since your cell is under sized. Use Phos-X or No Phos to make sure the level is Zero.

Lol.. just when I tought things where becoming easier.. :(

I've never tested for phosphates.. I don't even think I have a kit to test for that..

I iknow I need to buy a kit to test for CYA and another for salt... which are from what I understand from reading the forums (please correct me if wrong) are the two most important things to keep an eye on with SWG pools.

I already have one for ph/cl/total alk/acid demand

I'm assuming another kit entirely different is needed for phosphates right?

I would have the water tested for phosphates at the pool store rater than buy a test kit.

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ALWAYS test your existing salt level first. Then refer to the chart that comes with the unit to add the required amount to bring it up to 3200ppm. Save 2 or 3 bags and let it run for 24 hours. Then add the rest, referring again to the chart. If you over salt you'll have to drain & refill to lower it. Then bring your Cyanuric Acid up to 80 ppm. Better test for Phosphates also since your cell is under sized. Use Phos-X or No Phos to make sure the level is Zero.

Lol.. just when I tought things where becoming easier.. :(

I've never tested for phosphates.. I don't even think I have a kit to test for that..

I iknow I need to buy a kit to test for CYA and another for salt... which are from what I understand from reading the forums (please correct me if wrong) are the two most important things to keep an eye on with SWG pools.

I already have one for ph/cl/total alk/acid demand

I'm assuming another kit entirely different is needed for phosphates right?

I would have the water tested for phosphates at the pool store rater than buy a test kit.

Great.. I can get them the water to test when I'm ready to buy the salt. They sell the 80pounds bag at about $20.. Is that what it usually sells by?

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