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Is Separate Reagant/kit Needed With K-2006 And Mps?


kincade
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I'm currently using the K-2006 Taylor kit to measure my water and I'm considering using MPS as an alternative shock/oxidizer for after soaking. But I read in the manual that a different test kit is needed from Taylor to eliminate the MPS from the sample. What do those of you do that use chlorine and MPS?

Thanks for any help you can give!

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MPS is not a sanitizer unless used in conjunction with silver ions (Nature2) at hot spa temperatures and at fairly high MPS levels. It is also much more expensive than bleach or Dichlor. So I'm not sure why you want to use it, even if still using some chlorine.

If you do use MPS, then to know the true FC and especially the CC level you would need the interference remove kit you indicated.

Most people who use either Dichlor-only just shock with MPS weekly and don't use it every day. Most that use Dichlor-then-bleach don't need to shock at all or may occasionally use MPS for that purpose -- again, not used daily. Daily use of MPS is normally only for the Nature2+MPS approach where weekly shocking may be done with chlorine, but daily it's just MPS that is used (again, with Nature2, not by itself).

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MPS is not a sanitizer unless used in conjunction with silver ions (Nature2) at hot spa temperatures and at fairly high MPS levels. It is also much more expensive than bleach or Dichlor. So I'm not sure why you want to use it, even if still using some chlorine.

If you do use MPS, then to know the true FC and especially the CC level you would need the interference remove kit you indicated.

Most people who use either Dichlor-only just shock with MPS weekly and don't use it every day. Most that use Dichlor-then-bleach don't need to shock at all or may occasionally use MPS for that purpose -- again, not used daily. Daily use of MPS is normally only for the Nature2+MPS approach where weekly shocking may be done with chlorine, but daily it's just MPS that is used (again, with Nature2, not by itself).

Thank you for all of the information. I am using the nature 2, but I'm trying to get my head around all of the different approaches listed here. After a few weeks of reading up here, I think I'm more confused than ever! Original plan was the 'nitro' dichlor then bleach method w/ Nature2 as a 'backup' (also have an ozonator) and weekly shocking with MPS. But I'm wondering if it might be a better approach (from a lower chemical sensitivity and byproduct standpoint) to go to MPS daily and shock weekly with dichlor/clorox.

I sincerely appreciate your help. I've ordered the kit from Taylor, at least it will let me know what is going on in the tub.

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You could go either way as both are perfectly valid methods. If you go the Dichlor-then-bleach approach, you probably won't need to use MPS, especially since you have an ozonator. Dichlor-then-bleach will clearly be less expensive, but you need to have a low TA and use 50 ppm Borates to keep the pH under control. If you go the Nature2 with MPS approach, then you'd keep a higher TA since MPS is acidic.

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You could go either way as both are perfectly valid methods. If you go the Dichlor-then-bleach approach, you probably won't need to use MPS, especially since you have an ozonator. Dichlor-then-bleach will clearly be less expensive, but you need to have a low TA and use 50 ppm Borates to keep the pH under control. If you go the Nature2 with MPS approach, then you'd keep a higher TA since MPS is acidic.

Thank you for all the help! I think for now I will go with the Dichlor then bleach method and shock with MPS weekly if necessary. I have a full bottle of MPS that the store gave me with the purchase of the hot tub. Is there any downside to shocking with MPS?

What TA do you recommend for weekly shocks with MPS?

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MPS is somewhat acidic and can lower pH.

MPS also adds sulfates, which increase corrosion rates of some metals, but it shouldn't be too significant for moderate use.

Some people have an adverse reaction to MPS or the sulfates.

TA while using dichlor and MPS should be in the 80 to 90 range and in the 60 to 70 range while using MPS and bleach.

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MPS is somewhat acidic and can lower pH.

MPS also adds sulfates, which increase corrosion rates of some metals, but it shouldn't be too significant for moderate use.

Some people have an adverse reaction to MPS or the sulfates.

TA while using dichlor and MPS should be in the 80 to 90 range and in the 60 to 70 range while using MPS and bleach.

Thanks a million for the information! You guys are great, and this site is an invaluable source of information for those of us who would normally rely on the hot tub store (who told me today, chlorine is not good to use in hot tubs because of the heat; bromine was invented for hot tubs for this reason). Sheesh. No wonder there is so much confusion out there!

I think I'll go with the Dichlor then bleach method, then use the MPS to shock weekly and use it prior to use .

Does MPS bring down the CC level like shocking with chlorine does? What is the shock level of MPS?

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MPS will reduce CCs, but MPS will show up in the CC test.

You can get the MPS interference removal reagent from Taylor. (Get the 2 ounce size)

MPS is measured in ppm chlorine in the Taylor test.

Instructions

The general rule of thumb is to add 7 teaspoon of MPS per person-hour of tub. If you add MPS before soaking, subtract that amount from the amount you add after tub use based on the number of person hours.

[edit] You can use 3.5 teaspoons of MPS if you have a good ozonator.[end edit]

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