FightinTxAg Posted March 4, 2010 Report Share Posted March 4, 2010 I got a free 220V 1.5 hp pump, 11kw heater, air blower, filter and an ancient mechanical timer/control box from a buddy. He had already cut up the tub to haul off. I was hoping to land a free tub shell with jets (or a free non-working tub) and plumb it all together to create a free, working, Frankenstein hot tub. He said everything worked except that the heater leaked last time he had it all running. The heater is a 1985 Raypak that looks something like this: Link The top copper ell fitting that includes the mounting flange for the element had separated from the vertical pipe that the element runs inside of. I took it to a plumber because I didn't think my little propane torch would do very well trying to sweat a big 3" pipe. I'm supposed to pick it up today, and hopefully the heater will be good now. My question is if there's a way to check the pump without having a hot tub. I don't want to get too far down this path and realize the pump I've got is junk from sitting too long. I could run some 6ga test leads out of my service panel to the pump alone, and then flip on the breaker to see if the pump runs. I could fill a trashcan with water and run some hose from the pump's suction line into it to see if the pump will move water. But, even that's not going to tell me if the pump is performing up to snuff, right? If it runs and moves water with no backpressure on the outlet side of the pump, I could still have a bad impeller, right? Is there any way, short of finding a tub, moving it to my house, and wiring/plumbing everything up to see if the pump is really in good working order? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted March 4, 2010 Report Share Posted March 4, 2010 I would just see if the pump runs first. If the motor sounds fine and there is no bearing noise, then it should be ok. If you are ambitious, you can take the motor off the pump housing and inspect the impeller to see if that is ok but you could always replace that later even if it isn't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FightinTxAg Posted March 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2010 I would just see if the pump runs first. If the motor sounds fine and there is no bearing noise, then it should be ok. If you are ambitious, you can take the motor off the pump housing and inspect the impeller to see if that is ok but you could always replace that later even if it isn't. It's ok to run it dry? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ps558 Posted March 4, 2010 Report Share Posted March 4, 2010 I would just see if the pump runs first. If the motor sounds fine and there is no bearing noise, then it should be ok. If you are ambitious, you can take the motor off the pump housing and inspect the impeller to see if that is ok but you could always replace that later even if it isn't. It's ok to run it dry? no it is not wise to run a pump dry for more than a few seconds. It will damage the seal and maybe the wet end. You are going to have to remove the impeller from the motor shaft first. Then you can let it run as long as you like Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted March 5, 2010 Report Share Posted March 5, 2010 You only need a few seconds to test the motor so I think you are safe for just a quick test. I've run pumps dry for several seconds without any damage. If you are worried about it, just fill the pump basket with water and it will not be much different than the first few seconds of a prime. Cover the ports though unlesss you want to get wet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n1oty Posted March 5, 2010 Report Share Posted March 5, 2010 I got a free 220V 1.5 hp pump, 11kw heater, air blower, filter and an ancient mechanical timer/control box from a buddy. He had already cut up the tub to haul off. I was hoping to land a free tub shell with jets (or a free non-working tub) and plumb it all together to create a free, working, Frankenstein hot tub. He said everything worked except that the heater leaked last time he had it all running. The heater is a 1985 Raypak that looks something like this: Link The top copper ell fitting that includes the mounting flange for the element had separated from the vertical pipe that the element runs inside of. I took it to a plumber because I didn't think my little propane torch would do very well trying to sweat a big 3" pipe. I'm supposed to pick it up today, and hopefully the heater will be good now. My question is if there's a way to check the pump without having a hot tub. I don't want to get too far down this path and realize the pump I've got is junk from sitting too long. I could run some 6ga test leads out of my service panel to the pump alone, and then flip on the breaker to see if the pump runs. I could fill a trashcan with water and run some hose from the pump's suction line into it to see if the pump will move water. But, even that's not going to tell me if the pump is performing up to snuff, right? If it runs and moves water with no backpressure on the outlet side of the pump, I could still have a bad impeller, right? Is there any way, short of finding a tub, moving it to my house, and wiring/plumbing everything up to see if the pump is really in good working order? Thanks. Watch the minimum flow rate when using an 11 kW heater and watch for excessive heat rise at the tub returns. Also, it is usually not a good idea to try to repair the original bronze and copper manifold. The copper especially wears thin over time and leaks (probably the issue you currently have). Any repair will probably not last very long at all. A replacement tank is generally far better. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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