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Recessing Spa Into Existing Deck?


Jason B

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I have a 1st floor master bedroom, which has doors that go out to a screened-in porch. The existing deck is about 34 inches off the ground, and I want to put a hot tub into the deck, flush. I don't want it sticking out half-way, I want it recessed fully.

Is this is big project since I already have an existing deck there?

The tub I'm looking at has a solid base at the bottom which doesn't need a pad poured, as it has a built in pad...

You can see the screened-in porch here, on the right (no glass, so getting the tub into it won't be that bad):

av-7749.jpg

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I plan on doing the same thing next year, but my deck is only 22" off the ground, meaning my tub will stick out above the deck a foot or so. Right now my tub is on a concrete pad, up against the one side of the deck, and I plan on enclosing it by building my deck around the other 3 sides of the tub.

As far as I'm aware you need to consider at least 2 things...

1. Access to the pumps and spa services, you'll need to allow at least 3 feet access from that side of the tub. Best way to do this may be by some sort of trap door/hatch built into the deck.

2. Removing Spa completely in the event you change it, or have a catastrophic failure. Not something you want to consider, but if it does happen you'll need to design the deck so the tub can be dragged out without completely dismantling/destroying the deck. Using carriage bolts and screws (instead of nails) will help this process. Only other option will be to lift the thing out with a crane.

Anybody out there actually done this? If so, any tips or advice?

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A friend of mine had a recessed spa. As has already been mentioned, if the spa is recessed you need to plan the design to allow access to the pumps and drain. From the experience of my friend, I would recommend that you do not limit access to just one or two sides. You need to have access to all four sides. In the event you need to remove the tub, you also need to design the surrounding deck to be easily dismantled to allow people and equipment sufficient work space around the tub to do whatever work may be needed. You must consider the possibility of a "worst tub case" scenario. If you do not initially plan the construction of the deck around the tub carefully for a "worst tub case" scenario, your "worst case" scenario may include removing, re-designing and rebuilding the entire deck and tub foundation from scratch on top of dealing with whatever tub issues that need to be addressed.

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Luckily I have lattice around the screened-in porch/deck, so you can just remove a piece easily to get under...

These are two pics on the net which kinda shows what I'm dealing with:
Schnarr_HottubWS_300x72.jpg

Scharr_Exterior-300x72.jpg

another cool pic I've found, but without the screened-in porch:

MAILADb.jpg

 

I'd love to see other pics if you guys have them. I think a recessed tub just looks unreal. Sexy :)

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QUOTE (Jason B @ Dec 24 2009, 02:43 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I have a 1st floor master bedroom, which has doors that go out to a screened-in porch. The existing deck is about 34 inches off the ground, and I want to put a hot tub into the deck, flush. I don't want it sticking out half-way, I want it recessed fully.

Is this is big project since I already have an existing deck there?

The tub I'm looking at has a solid base at the bottom which doesn't need a pad poured, as it has a built in pad...

You can see the screened-in porch here, on the right (no glass, so getting the tub into it won't be that bad):

av-7749.jpg

Hello Jason

This is a bit of a project but is not really that difficult to accomplish. We do often for our customers. The easiest way to do it is as mentioned before, install the tub with one side right up to the edge of the deck so you can slide it in and out as opposed to dropping it into the hole cut.

If you are going to install it as shown in the pictures I strongly recommend installing lift out pannels on all sides of the tub to allow service access if needed. It also will give you the space to move the tub out of the deck it you ever have to do so. I also HIGHLY recommend placing the tub on at least patio stones if not a poured concrete pad. Even if the tub says it can go straight on the ground, with water comming down around the tub the ground gets wet and soft causing the tub to list over time to one side or the other. The patio slabs or concrete remove this possibility. Please see below for a step by step method to drop this tub in. Of course, ensure you meet all local building codes before starting the project.

1- determine the location of the tub on the deck. include 2 feet of space on each side to allow for the lift out panels to access the tub. Cut the deck and reinforce the remaining structure so it is sound installing beams, support posts, etc as required.

2 - place the patio slabs or pour the concret pad for the tub.

3 - you are ready for the tub now. bring it onto the deck and place it on cargo straps that are long enough to allow you something to hold onto on each side while lowering the tub into place. Slide the tub over the opening on 2x6 lumber so it is above the hole. STRONG friends are now reqwired to help lower the tub into place. with LOTS of manpower holding the straps, slide out the 2x6 lumber and gently lower the tub into place. LEAVE THE STRAPS IN PLACE UNDER THE TUB. They will be necessary if you are ever having to lift the tub out. It is much easier to not have to try and find a way to slide them into place at that time.

4 - have your electrician now wire the tub up.

5- build lift out panels for the sides of the tub to complete the deck up to the sides of the tub.

6- invite the neighbours over to enjoy your tub and congratulate you on the great installation.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Installation of a recessed spa is a bit of a pain, but as the last comment has stated, can be done safely and correctly. We have design and installed many spas in applications similar to yours and would never recommend setting the spa on anything but concrete. The soil composition and grade usually are overlooked and lead to many future problems with your spa settling. Even with a perfiect installation, a poor foundation can lead to disaster in the future.

This is what our company would do if your spa was 8'x8' for example..

1) Establish finish grade "top of spa" and mark with a long wooden stake. Most people do not have laser levels.

2) Measure the exact height of your spa and mark on your stake the bottom grade with a permanent marker.

3) Excavate 8" below the mark and completely remove the soil. You may have to dig deeper if you cannot find virgin soil.

4) The newly excavated hole should be 10'x10' if possible to allow for 1' overhang on all sides for service.

5) Fill the excavated area with 4" of crushed limestone or #6 limestone. Then compact.

6) Pour a 4" thick slab and use wire mesh to keep slab from breaking apart in the future.

The cost and headache of doing this is far less than having a spa settle. In that case your entire spa would have to be drained, removed and you would have to perform the steps above anyways. Then of course re-install the entire thing again!!!!!!

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1) Establish finish grade "top of spa" and mark with a long wooden stake. Most people do not have laser levels.

Laser levels are suprisingly inexpensive nowadays. I was surprised to see how much they've dropped in price. Great advice on the other steps. I was unprepared for how thick and rock-packed the clay soil was where we wanted to put the tub. I had to rent a backhoe to dig it out. It was just NOT coming out with a pick axe and shovel. Keep the tub running somewhere while you do the job, your back will need it.

I have just the opposite situation, I'm going to have a deck installed over the existing tub. In preparation for it I've since laid a base suitable for a larger tub. Pretty much following the advice listed here. I put extra drainage around the side wall. Right now I've just got a round Nordic tub. At some point we might go for a larger and likely square tub. I mention this because if you have any consideration about a different sized tub you might want to consider it ahead of time. There should be enough room under the deck to get to everything. Any decking and side joist on the outside edge will be bolted to allow for getting the tub out with the least amount of hassles. The framing will be for an 8' x 8' tub and then framed in to meet the circle. The round tub is pretty old now and likely to get replaced (sooner than the deck would).

Another though to consider is how much to recess the tub. Think about your butt sitting on the decking. And the cover. You probably do not want to set the tub too low. Otherwise you'd run into trouble with stuff falling down the gap. Also think about how the decking material is going to feel sitting on it to get in/out of the tub. We plan on using either Ipe or composite decking to avoid the risk of splinters in our butts. We also plan on leaving the tub edge raised a few inches to allow for a lip to grasp, and to give the lid room to seat properly.

Don't forget about safety. You don't want people accidentally walking on the tub and crashing through the lid. Our lid is durable enough to deal with 'some' load but I'm still wondering how to best deal with blocking it off against foot traffic (aka children).

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1) Establish finish grade "top of spa" and mark with a long wooden stake. Most people do not have laser levels.

Don't forget about safety. You don't want people accidentally walking on the tub and crashing through the lid. Our lid is durable enough to deal with 'some' load but I'm still wondering how to best deal with blocking it off against foot traffic (aka children).

Hot tub covers in my area, and I think most/all of the US, have to be ASTM certified, meaning they have to be able to withstand a certain static load without collapsing. Not sure exactly what this load is but it's a lot more than a child or two. I believe the only exception to this is where the area containing the tub is fenced off, meaning the hot tub would then be considered a 'pool', and no cover regulations then apply. But don't take my word for it - talk to your local town inspector.

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  • 2 months later...
  • 2 years later...

Nothing makes a tech happier than crawling under a deck to fix a spa, especially after a recent rainstorm, lol

Plane for the future- give access to all four sides- be sure the screws holding in the side panels will be accesable one recessed, or just remove the screws that may be covered and inaccesable. Many spas place quipment all over inside the cabinet, as well as being able to get a leak which can happen anywhere. Plan for the future.

Good luck

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Not leaving acess to all four sides is just betting you will never have to fix it, and I don't care if your spa was built by Jesus Christ himself and spouts holy water from the jets, sooner or later a tech will need access to the side you decided to ignore, this goes for putting a spa up against a wall as well... trust me on this, it is a BAD idea to bet against having to work on it.

Would you buy a car, and then weld the hood shut because it is just that good?

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  • 1 month later...

new to forum and just traded an old motorcycle for a sundance optima 2008 model. my plan is to drop it into an existing deck corner as mentioned above, away from any walls or big obstructions. i dont have a whole lot of "buddies" on call for help and im still working on the exact position of the tub for easy access underneath the deck and the optimum height i want it to stick out. i spent all of last night thinking about how to do this and here is my plan:

1. find the final location and trace it onto the deck surface with a black marker.

2. move the tub out of the way via pvc pipe or wood dowels as rollers (the egyptian method).

3. cut out the hole.

4. reinforce the deck as needed.

5. lay a foundation (either poured slab or concrete blocks)

6. roll the tub back over the opening with some old boat oars or onto a couple of 4 X 4's.

7. using 3 tow straps going under the spa bottom and 6 guys, lower the spa onto the foundation (like a coffin into a grave)

8. hook up power/drain

9. fill it up and turn it on.

i'll take some photos as this project progresses and id appreciate any advice on how this method works or any tricks im missing.

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If you recess the spa completely, it tends to be tougher to get in and out of, I would reccomend recessing it to the height of your highest internal entry step, then you are stepping in and out in perfect balance in spite of not being able to see the step clearly going in. Pretty handy if your guests have had a glass of wine or two. B)

Always leave access thru lift panels on all four sides.

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If you recess the spa completely, it tends to be tougher to get in and out of, I would reccomend recessing it to the height of your highest internal entry step, then you are stepping in and out in perfect balance in spite of not being able to see the step clearly going in. Pretty handy if your guests have had a glass of wine or two. B)

Always leave access thru lift panels on all four sides.

This is always my advise as well. Patially sink it in so that the seats in the spa are about at deck level. It makes it SOOOOOO much easier to get in/out of.

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  • 2 weeks later...

1) Establish finish grade "top of spa" and mark with a long wooden stake. Most people do not have laser levels.

2) Measure the exact height of your spa and mark on your stake the bottom grade with a permanent marker.

3) Excavate 8" below the mark and completely remove the soil. You may have to dig deeper if you cannot find virgin soil.

4) The newly excavated hole should be 10'x10' if possible to allow for 1' overhang on all sides for service.

5) Fill the excavated area with 4" of crushed limestone or #6 limestone. Then compact.

6) Pour a 4" thick slab and use wire mesh to keep slab from breaking apart in the future.

The cost and headache of doing this is far less than having a spa settle. In that case your entire spa would have to be drained, removed and you would have to perform the steps above anyways. Then of course re-install the entire thing again!!!!!!

This is exactly what I did but instead of concrete I used XPS insulation (10 cm thick). Easier to install and provides good insulation. Extremely pressure resistant, it handles long term loads well over the filled spa weight. This is actually the recommended way by most resellers of American spas in Sweden.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I love this one: it has multiple levels, could be incorporated into an existing deck, has a nice finish on the edges, and I would build it so the deck around the back of the spa could be removed and the tub slid out in case of some problem...

pt-deck-banner.png

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  • 5 years later...
On 6/14/2012 at 2:38 PM, matt_s said:

This is exactly what I did but instead of concrete I used XPS insulation (10 cm thick). Easier to install and provides good insulation. Extremely pressure resistant, it handles long term loads well over the filled spa weight. This is actually the recommended way by most resellers of American spas in Sweden.

I never ending up doing this project but think I'm going to now. Anymore installed pics by people recessing into their deck?

And when you say patio stones instead of concrete, what do you mean? Or XPS insulation (10 cm thick) , never thought od that. How's it holding up?

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  • 3 years later...
On 12/29/2009 at 1:38 PM, backyardliving said:

3 - you are ready for the tub now. bring it onto the deck and place it on cargo straps that are long enough to allow you something to hold onto on each side while lowering the tub into place. Slide the tub over the opening on 2x6 lumber so it is above the hole. STRONG friends are now reqwired to help lower the tub into place. with LOTS of manpower holding the straps, slide out the 2x6 lumber and gently lower the tub into place. LEAVE THE STRAPS IN PLACE UNDER THE TUB. They will be necessary if you are ever having to lift the tub out. It is much easier to not have to try and find a way to slide them into place at that time.

 

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