quantumchromodynamics Posted October 1, 2009 Report Share Posted October 1, 2009 There is a white wire with a black trace coming from the transformer. Are you considering the wire to be white and connecting it with the white wires, or are you considering the wire to be black and connecting it to the black wires? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quantumchromodynamics Posted October 1, 2009 Report Share Posted October 1, 2009 In your picture, I see four connectors on the right and three connectors on the left. According to the wiring diagram, it looks like there should be four wires on the right and four on the left. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lebrocoli Posted October 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2009 There is a white wire with a black trace coming from the transformer. Are you considering the wire to be white and connecting it with the white wires, or are you considering the wire to be black and connecting it to the black wires? The black and white wire is considered a black wire and the white and red is considered a red wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lebrocoli Posted October 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2009 Look closely, there are 4 wires on each side. I put the numbers on the picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quantumchromodynamics Posted October 2, 2009 Report Share Posted October 2, 2009 When will the new unit arrive? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lebrocoli Posted October 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2009 Well, I called the technician on Monday and he said that he had the unit in his shop. The problem is that the technician only comes in our region the Wednesday AND does not work if it rains. So on Monday, the weather forecast for the week was all rain so he booked somebody else. Now, we are Friday and I think he still won't come. I called him Thursday at lunch time and I left a message but since then, nothing. This is very bad and I am kind of tired of all that. We are so close to ask for a full refund... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lebrocoli Posted October 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2009 Well, I went to lunch at home and surprise, the new unit was already installed/wired and the technician was gone. Anyhoo, before starting anything, I took some measurements: Voltage at the input of the heater: 117.9 Volts Voltage at the output of the transformer: 27.9 Volts So I started up the whole thing and the digital panel came up. Good. So I pressed on the pool button and set the temp to 80 °F. The heater lighted up and all was good again. Even though I DO NOT want to create victory right away, I notice right away 2 different positive behaviors: 1 - I noticed little or no fume from the exhaust. The other heater had a lot of gray fumes going out. 2 - I noticed that the area where the digital display sits is much less warmer than the other unit. In the other unit, it was very hot inside and around the digital control. My wife is checking every hour if it is still running. We will see. Edit: It has been 2 hours now and it is still running! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quantumchromodynamics Posted October 3, 2009 Report Share Posted October 3, 2009 It seems that the initial unit was probably defective. I hope that this unit gives you good long-term performance. You are definitely much more capable with these kinds of things than the average person. Based on the new information you have provided about the exhaust and the surface temperature, I think that there are two other possible explanations. A damaged refractory lining or improper gas pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Clown Posted October 3, 2009 Report Share Posted October 3, 2009 Sounds like the refractory may have cracked or collapsed (shipping likely). Great news anyway, Good Luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lebrocoli Posted October 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2009 Thanks a lot for all your good words! Thanks a lot for your help! It is very much appreciated. It ran from noon yesterday to midnight without any problems. I started up again this morning and all seems good again. I am still amazed by the fact that the front of the unit is a lot colder than the other unit. In the other unit, it was so hot, around the digital display that I was wondering how it could work properly. There was probably too much heat inside the unit somehow and the fuse was blowing. Winter is coming down the pipe here and you will here of me next spring when I turn the unit ON again, if I have any problems. Do you have any tips for proper winterizing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Clown Posted October 4, 2009 Report Share Posted October 4, 2009 I am really starting to feel like Jandy is sh.. Sigh... Do you like Jandy again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lebrocoli Posted October 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2009 I like the way the heater look, I like the digital control, it works great now. When you buy something brand new that costs 2000$ and does not work for more than one hour at a time, you get very angry. The problem is probably not Jandy itself but how their units are assemble. If we assume that the issue was a damaged refractory lining, how come it happened on a unit that came directly from the factory? I guess it is like any other product where sometimes it comes defective right from the factory. Anyhow, it was my first experience with a pool heater and that is why I was very upset, thinking that the other brands were better. I was also very confused since the guy that came to install the gas line said that Jandy were excellent heaters. And even the guy that came to install the additional water pipes said something similar. It was almost like set it and forget it! At the same time, mine was not working for more than an hour so I was thinking 'wtf'? Also, I guess the technician who you deals with makes the difference. I had to call him often to get an update and the guy keep blaming my electrical installation Jesus-Christ. Anyhow, the water was at 55 and now at 81. The goal was to try it to make sure it works fine before Winter. I think that goal is attained. Thanks a lot for all your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Clown Posted October 4, 2009 Report Share Posted October 4, 2009 Part of the problem may have been the fact that this is a new heater (Design or otherwise) and the shipping protection may not have been tested extensively enough or the unit was just plain handled incorrectly (in shipping). The unit, in the box, could have taken a severe enough shock at the underside (dropped), and the packaging / box, may not have shown evidence of this. True, there is something to be said about a tech that should know to look for things like this, or what to look for in a failure situation, in this case the excessive heat inside the jacket. As far as winterizing, if you keep the water up in the pool and will be running the pool every day, I would suggest running the heater for a couple of min every month. If you drain the pool down for the winter, Follow the manufacturers recommendations making sure ALL of the water is drained out of the heater. Plugs, opening unions (water), etc.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quantumchromodynamics Posted October 4, 2009 Report Share Posted October 4, 2009 I recently put in a Heat Pump. The box for the Heat Pump had a mechanical device that would indicate if the unit was exposed to an acceleration above a certain limit. I think that it would be a good idea to include this type of device on expensive equipment that can be adversely affected by being dropped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Clown Posted October 5, 2009 Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 I have a friend that builds/ tests satellites, and he has mentioned to me before that accelerometers, even the "cheap" ones are extremely expensive. But maybe thats for just his line of work. Was it some kind of a mechanical device that maybe buckled or something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quantumchromodynamics Posted October 5, 2009 Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 Yes, it was a mechanical device that was attached to the outside of the box. It did not record acceleration; it just tripped if it was exposed to a preset acceleration. I meant to keep it to see how it worked, but it was thrown out with the box. I don't think that it should have been too expensive, although I don't know how much it cost. I liked knowing that the unit was probably not dropped or subjected to excessive acceleration. Digital accelerometers are becoming very cheap. A manufacturer can probably get them for less than $10.00 each in bulk. They are being included in many electronics, such as video game controllers, like the wii, and other electronics such as cell phones and PDAs. I think that you will begin to see many sensors being embedded in all appliances. Every conceivable (relevant) metric will be measured and monitored. Temperature, acceleration, GPS position, pressure, flow rate, voltage, current, audio, video etc. The cost of all sensors is dropping is accordance with Moore's Law. Costs per performance are being reduced by 10 X every 5 years. This will enable the new demands people have for Smart Homes, Home Automation and Networking. As IPv6 becomes fully implemented, all devices will be internet addressable and remotely monitorable and controllable. This will allow for much better predictive analytics that can detect performance and predict failure before the unit actually fails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quantumchromodynamics Posted October 5, 2009 Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 Dual Axis Accelerometer $7.95 Triple Axis Accelerometer $19.95 Dual Axis Accelerometer $32.99 The Memsic 2125 is a low cost, dual-axis thermal accelerometer capable of measuring tilt, acceleration, rotation, and vibration with a range of ±3 g. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quantumchromodynamics Posted October 5, 2009 Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 Here is a similar device Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Clown Posted October 5, 2009 Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 Cool, the ones my friend works with are reusable. AND they need to be plugged into a computer. They also give a shock/ acceleration measurement. Even 7.95 per unit may still be a bit costly. Make the customer pay for it. Hide it in the shipping cost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lebrocoli Posted October 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 Very interesting. Well, 7.95$ for a ~2000$ product is 0.4% so I think it would worth it. Just hide the cost of it in the price or in the shipping. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quantumchromodynamics Posted October 6, 2009 Report Share Posted October 6, 2009 The shock indicator labels are probably only a few dollars and they should be good enough for most applications. One good thing it does is make everyone be extra careful because they don't want to trip the sensor. Another option is a reusable device that is sent back to the manufacturer. It could record acceleration tilt etc throughout the trip. A deposit could be charged and refunded after the manufacturer receives the device back. http://www.agmcontainer.com/shock_indicato...rs_products.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Clown Posted October 12, 2009 Report Share Posted October 12, 2009 Was that sensor on the box or in it? If it is on the box (so you could see without opening to see if your product had been damaged), what would keep the offender from ripping it off the box. Then all he would have to do is shrug his shoulders and say i don't know where it went. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quantumchromodynamics Posted October 12, 2009 Report Share Posted October 12, 2009 It was on the outside of the box. Of course, people can always try to cheat whatever systems are in place to ensure quality. Since I didn't even know that the box would contain the device, I would not have even known it was missing if it had been removed by the shipper. It is just one component of a quality control process. If a particular shipper or driver is incompetent or dishonest, they should eventually be dismissed by those who are competent. It shouldn't take too many such discrepancies for people to figure out that someone needed to be investigated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Clown Posted October 13, 2009 Report Share Posted October 13, 2009 Perhaps the shipper should be the one to install the device. When you think about it, once the product leaves the plant, the manufacturer has no real responsibility to correct any damage (without cost, of course). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quantumchromodynamics Posted October 13, 2009 Report Share Posted October 13, 2009 It all depends on when and where the damage occurs. If the unit is made wrong or damaged before being shipped out, then the manufacturer is responsible. The tag helps identify if any sort of mishandling occurred during shipping. In the case of this post, we are assuming a bad combustion chamber panel (refractory). Someone should be analyzing the original heater to determine exactly what caused to original malfunction. The manufacturer is responsible unless they can determine that someone else is to blame. If they can determine that the unit was damaged during shipping, they can file a claim with the carrier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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