Surfbeast Posted August 30, 2009 Report Share Posted August 30, 2009 Ok, I got to the circuit board and checked the high limit switch. I moved the little arm on the heater and high limit switch and they clicked. I noticed that there is a jumper wire from the heater switch to the high switch. Right below these 2 is another switch marked High limit ( 2 high limits one on either side of the Heater switch ) there are no wires going to the other high switch, never looks like there was, is this normal? I am waiting for the tub to cool down to about 90F then turning it back on with the temp set at 85F. What should I look for if the temp starts to climb again??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrfixit Posted August 30, 2009 Report Share Posted August 30, 2009 Ref your last post- who replaced the pump and why? Was there an issue before the pump was replaced with the heat not regulating? is there a chance you can post pics? I am not understanding what you are loking at from your description. I am suspect that when the pump was replaced, something was disconnected and not reconnected properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ps558 Posted August 31, 2009 Report Share Posted August 31, 2009 Ok, I got to the circuit board and checked the high limit switch. I moved the little arm on the heater and high limit switch and they clicked. I noticed that there is a jumper wire from the heater switch to the high switch. Right below these 2 is another switch marked High limit ( 2 high limits one on either side of the Heater switch ) there are no wires going to the other high switch, never looks like there was, is this normal? I am waiting for the tub to cool down to about 90F then turning it back on with the temp set at 85F. What should I look for if the temp starts to climb again??? Looks like you are describing a older Balboa Instruments Pc board. The best way to see if you have a stuck relay is test for voltage at the heater while the spa is not calling for heat. If should be 0 volts. If indeed it is a Balboa board you will see the heater relay close and open with the temp setting. The temp sensors are usually not far off in temp reading and controlling the heater. If they go bad, most spas come up with a error message and the spa does not run Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Surfbeast Posted August 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2009 OK I started the tub up today after the temp had finally come down. Set temp to 89F, water was at 85F. All the functions acted normal, tub came on, then blower for 1 minute ect.. Unit started heating water and got to 90.5, then unfortunatly I had to leave for 30 minutes. Came back and the FL code was up. I just reset tub and everything is going fine so far after 10 min. The board is a Balboa unit from 1999. I did mess with the little wheel thing on the back of the heater when I had this heating problem, I moved it back and fourth a few times, what does that do and where should it be set to?? also, I noticed when I restarted the tub the high temp switch was on and the heater switch was open ( off ) and tub temp was at 90.5 setting still 89 I never moved or unhooked any wires when I changed the pump, only the copper ground and the plug in cord. Hope it starts acting normal again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrfixit Posted August 31, 2009 Report Share Posted August 31, 2009 The "wheel thing" as you described it, is probably the pressure switch. It measures the water flow thru the heater tube and tells the heater to turn on if there is sufficient flow. I am guessing you adjusted the switch all the way so that the heater stays on all the time. I strongly suggest getting an experienced spa tech to look at this. Adjusting the flow switch can be tricky. Also, the heater relay can also still be the culprit. Test the heater as described above by ps558. When you get the "flo"error code, or when you have the temp set below the current water temp, test the heater with a meter. It should read 0 volts. if it is on, it will read 230v. This will confirm the relay theory. BE CAREFUL 230V WILL REALLY, REALLY HURT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Surfbeast Posted September 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2009 I'l bring my meter home from work tommorow and try all that. I read about setting the flow switch. I turned it back utill I heard it click ( power was off ) then turned it up about 1/4 turn or so. So far so good. The tub is set at 94F and temp is holding at 96.4 - 6. If it stays at that and cycles through it's normal routine I can live with that. Will check heater on Tues and check flow switch. Other problem could be bad high temp sensor?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrfixit Posted September 1, 2009 Report Share Posted September 1, 2009 No, I don't see that as a problem. There will normally be a variance in the water temp vs the set temp by a degree or 2. That is normal. Keep us posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Surfbeast Posted September 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2009 OK, the tub seems to be working OK now. The temp is set at 95 and he temp is 98.6 to 99. Not real far off but at least it is cycling through it's system and not overheating. I stuck a screwdriver into the relay switch and lifted up the little arm a bit, that seems to have solved the problem. It was he high limit switch. ( I did turn the power off first ). Thanks for all the help, I will be watching it like a hawk for a while! Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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