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No Flow And Cell Reversing On Jandy Aquapure 1400

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Periodically, I get low flow indications after I installed a new trisensor on my AquaPure 1400.

Should I press the calibrate button when the pump is on low speed or high speed?

Also, does the system produce the chlorine when it senses a low or no flow condition?

Thanks

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Lo is a low water temp, not lo flow. No flow will not produce Cl. You can push the calibrate button on either speed as long as you are not getting a low flow display on the LCD.

I realize it has almost been a year since you posted this. Sorry for the delay.

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I have the same problem with my Jandy aquapure 700. I believe the problem to be the sensor, I have even tried to remove the daughter board but then received the appropriate error codes indicating sensor problems, so I went back to the same configuration with same results daughter board flow light blinking and no flow indication on Jandy controller. Temperature and chorine reading are correct.

Does anybody know the pin out on the flow sensor cable, since all other readings are correct I would like to bypass the flow sensor.

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replaced my cell and sensor. While replacing i noticed that the new sensor had only 2 contacts and my old one had 3 contacts on the bottom (do the new sensors only have 2?), also the DC power cable that came with the new cell had two wires (blue and red) while my old one had 3 wires (black, white and green the black and white wires were connected to a single push on connector), I connected the blue wire to same connection where the black and white were connected and the red wire to where the green wire was connected, hope this right.

I replaced both the cell and sensor and reconnected to the aquapure control center. Everything seems to be working OK, except that i haven't seen that the reverse cell light ever goes off.

Is this normal,

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If you turn the unit off, then back on, the cell reversing light should not be on (after the 4 min wait state passes).

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I've been wrestling with the no flow situation on my Aquapure 1400 for years. I've been through new cells and sensors. Newest sensor was 6 months ago, the newer kind with 2 silver discs and the little box in the cable. It fits into the third port of the cell. I keep it very clean. Lately, I've been getting the flow light sporadically off again, doesn't generate chlorine. No error codes. Chlorine level is perfect, 3200, by sensor and test strips. Flow is excellent, 50gpm on the flow meter. All board tests are good. It is extremely annoying.

My cell is on the same switch as the pool pump - what I'd really like to do is void all the warranties and find out a way to bypass the flow sensor / spoof the system that flow is good. Perhaps a "wiring modification" however I'm not sure how the flow sensor even works. Any explanations, thoughts, or ideas?

Thanks,

Russ

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Ok, Am I correct in assuming the flow is measured by thermal mass dispersion? One of the metal sensors is heated and its temperature measured vs the other sensor (control). The faster the flow, the faster heat is carried away from the sensor and the less the temperature difference between It and the control. If that's the case, I was considering experimenting by placing a small baffle or diverter in the cell that diverts more flow directly onto the sensors, thus dissipating any difference in temperatures much faster. Any engineers out there have a comment on this?

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You are correct with how the sensor "feels" flow. Circumventing the unit's flow sensing capability is extremely dangerous! The unit must be able to tell when the water flow stops. You may think that when the pump shuts off, that the unit will shut down (providing that the unit is wired to the pump) and, no problem. This is true, however there is a scenario where flow can stop without the pump turning off. In the event where the water level drops too low, or otherwise the pump looses prime, can create a condition where the unit would continue to produce hydrogen gas in the plumbing and, well, you can imagine what could happen.

There was one customer that had two separate bodies of water with two separate sets of equipment. He couldn't figure out why every couple of days the plumbing on his spa would explode! Turned out that he had his cell cables crossed, and was producing chlorine/hydrogen in an environment where there was no flow.

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Need Help!! Pool Clown Hey 1st time posting , great info! I have a Jandy Aquapure 1400 replaced cell after 6 years , received replacement kit with new cell, sensor and DC cord ...on the DC cord new one has two wires red \ blue and old one has three wires green and black\white together in one terminal...does red wire replace green on the pcb board and blue wire replaces black \white wire, just want to make sure {these replacement parts are expensive}

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Hi Pool Clown.

I have a question/problem my jandy nature2 fusion had a salt water sensor replaced last week, the previous sensor didn't have anything attached to it other than cord, new sensor has a small board "sensor indicator module, but the main iAqualink always show cell reversing, is there a programming need to be done for the unit to operate correctly?

Thank you for your help

Boris

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My Aquapure keeps going down to 0% chlorine production and saying low salt. I had the water tested and it has 3100ppm.

I recalibrated it twice. The chlorine is at 2.0.

Any ideas Pool Clown? The complete cell just turned 2 years old!

Ron

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Apologies for the delay.  You have probably already found the problem...

My guess though would be the sensor.  Its job is to detect temp, salinity and flow.

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Do the new type R0452500 Jandy Flow Sensors still need the little calibration circuit board like the ones before? Or does the new one have it built in the box on the cord? 

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I don't think there is the board anymore.  To be honest, i haven't worked on one in a while.  I have kinda gone in another direction with SWCG's.  Now i'm mostly installing/replacing with the IC40's.  A lot less problems. 

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I don't think there is the board anymore.  To be honest, i haven't worked on one in a while.  I have kinda gone in another direction with SWCG's.  Now i'm mostly installing/replacing with the IC40's.  A lot less problems. 

FYI -I just installed the new style flow sensor. It doesn't need the calibration board.

My black epoxy sensor failed after getting a bubble type crack in the epoxy that let water into it. That caused a 170 code right away.

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Unfortunately, Jandy has a problem on their hands with these flow sensors. But like with most large companies they won't offer that fact. I have replaced more flow sensors than Carter has little pills. You can pretty much trust those 172/185 codes.

Sly, you should return that sensor to where you got it from before it ages anymore to get warranty on it. I would normally tell you to call Jandy, but thats not time efficient these days...

My pool is nearly 4 years old and it persistently shows NO FLOW after about 5 mins. Cleaned the cell and the sensor and still NO FLOW. Have contacted Jandy and am waiting for them but suspect I'll need a new sensor. What goes bad on the sensors exactly. Why do they no longer sense flow?

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My experience 

On 5/6/2017 at 3:57 PM, Rodders said:

 What goes bad on the sensors exactly. Why do they no longer sense flow?

It appears, through my experience, that Jandy is having difficulty keeping the internals of the sensor dry.  They cant seem to find an epoxy that can tolerate the hot cold cycles that the sensor goes through to determine the three variables necessary to give the unit accurate information, those being temperature, salinity, and flow.  

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