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No Flow And Cell Reversing On Jandy Aquapure 1400


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I am just following up my post from before that nobody responded to. My RS8 now ALWAYS reads that the salt level is 25,500 even though the pool store tells me 3200. I am also not getting any chlorine production. Finally, I don't have a "no-flow" light but my "flow" light doesn't light up. The only two lights on are "Power" and "Cell Reversing". Any thoughts on what is wrong or what I can do? Thank you!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Very greatful for this forum, and Pool Clown taking the time to help.

I have a Jandy 1400, 3 port, just under 2 years old for a fiberglass 10,000 gallon pool.

Getting the 172/186 error codes.

I've cleaned the sensor with the green pad, but not acid wash.. even re-seated the connector on the circuit card.

I'm a controls tech, so I'll run through the trouble shooting manual.

I guess what gets me is that the sensor doesn't have moving parts... If I buy a new one, I'll be taking the old one apart to see what is going on.

It'd be nice to have a home remedy to fix sensors..

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Hi Pool Clown (or Sly, El Neno or Las Vegas Lizard),

Looks like you have been a big help to others. I am receiving error codes 172 & 186 and went through the service troubleshooting guide. For the 4-5 backboard am recieving 0 mVDC vs 120 and on K_H .12 vs 120. With sensor disconnected with temp/salinity/ up or down buttons both give HH whereas it should be 91. With the sensor connected though it gives HH for down and 91 for up, whereas the Troubleshooting Front Board page say it should be 91 for down. The 172/186 flow chart page does not specify whether the sensor should be connected or not, so with sensor connected, and up arrow, I got 91 so answered no to HH or 32.

Although I am logical, these instructions seem to indicate both the front panel and flow sensor are bad, for example gives right 91 reading for up with sensor connected, but front board troubleshooting says sensor disconnected and down arrow.

Found best internet sensor price at $144 plus $13 ground shipping on discountpoolmart.com and front board for $300 elsewhere that does not seem a commonly available, so I want to make sure before buying the wrong one.

Thanks a million. I am willing to send you a $20 service fee, if we get it right.

Also flow sensor three SS disks are clean,but there is a fourth grey one that was slightly covered by plastic, so I removed plastic. This did not help, but not sure if it damaged sensor, if it was not already bad.

Help.

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Hi,

I am the one who originally posted this forum topic. We did find out it was the cell sensor and it was replaced. It was not the new type of Jandy so it was a little harder to find. Now I have replaced the whole unit from Jandy to Hayward since the cell went on my Jandy. With that being said, I have a 1 year old Jandy Aquapure sensor that I am willing to sell if someone needs one. I also have the Jandy main board that is working that I can sell to. So let me know if anyone needs these two items.

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The wife called Zodiac/Jandy and told them that the service manual states a two year warranty. I don't know how she did it, but they sent us a brand new sensor that is about to be installed when I log off.

Our salinity reading from the pool supply place matched our reading at the time.

With the new sensor, will I have to run a calibration??

Off to read the manual one more time.. :rolleyes:

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  • 11 months later...

Hello... hopefully someone is still reading this forum...

I *too* have the 172/186 error codes on my APURE1400 (installed Aug 2007). Cleaned cell & filters then ran the front board test... 2 of the 3 test produced different readings: 2.7 (should read 2.8), 74 (should read 75), and 91 (should read 91).

So based on the guide, if the readings are different then it's the board...

It's not clear in the troubleshooting guide if different means all three readings are different or just some. Is there any other tests I can run to confirm if the board is truly the issue?

Thanks in advance!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi

I got error codes 172 & 186 on my Chlormatic III (2 port cell, threaded sensor) about 8 months ago, replaced the sensor and everything was fixed.

Now, only 8 months later I'm getting the same error codes again. The error was intermittent at first, but is now continuous.

I checked and the warranty on parts is only 3 months :(

I've checked the voltages on the back-board test points, and all the AC voltages are okay (just a little high), but of course cannot test the 120mV DC output since the error is preventing the cell from turning on.

I don't want to pay out another $200 after only 8 months if there is any chance that the fault could be with the front board, or anything else.

According to the fault code list here http://www.discountpoolwarehouse.com/html/clormaitc_3_codes.html

code 186 means "Heated temperature sensor reading too high. Near 5 Volts. Generates a 172 code flow sensor service condition."

(the actual pool temperature is around 92 degrees)

Running the diagnostics, with the sensor disconnected, I got test readings of 2.8, 74F and90F

Does anyone have the pinout for the sensor connector ?

I'd like to check the input from the sensor to see if it really is high, to help double-check whether the fault is with the sensor or the front board.

Checking voltages on the sensor connector randomly, I do get a lot of high (5.5v) readings, but am not yet sure if this could be because the voltage supply to the sensor is too high.

(I'm assuming the temperature sensor part is just a thermistor, but not clear on how the other sensors function)

Any help that saves me from wasting more $$$ would be greatly appreciated.

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Hi

I got error codes 172 & 186 on my Chlormatic III (2 port cell, threaded sensor) about 8 months ago, replaced the sensor and everything was fixed.

Now, only 8 months later I'm getting the same error codes again. The error was intermittent at first, but is now continuous.

I checked and the warranty on parts is only 3 months :(

I've checked the voltages on the back-board test points, and all the AC voltages are okay (just a little high), but of course cannot test the 120mV DC output since the error is preventing the cell from turning on.

I don't want to pay out another $200 after only 8 months if there is any chance that the fault could be with the front board, or anything else.

According to the fault code list here http://www.discountpoolwarehouse.com/html/clormaitc_3_codes.html

code 186 means "Heated temperature sensor reading too high. Near 5 Volts. Generates a 172 code flow sensor service condition."

(the actual pool temperature is around 92 degrees)

Running the diagnostics, with the sensor disconnected, I got test readings of 2.8, 74F and90F

Does anyone have the pinout for the sensor connector ?

I'd like to check the input from the sensor to see if it really is high, to help double-check whether the fault is with the sensor or the front board.

Checking voltages on the sensor connector randomly, I do get a lot of high (5.5v) readings, but am not yet sure if this could be because the voltage supply to the sensor is too high.

(I'm assuming the temperature sensor part is just a thermistor, but not clear on how the other sensors function)

Any help that saves me from wasting more $$$ would be greatly appreciated.

I would really push Jandy on this one. This is something that happens due to a faulty part not from abuse or mistreatment. They know that there was a problem with the sensors and they should make good on this warranty. The new sensors are made with black epoxy and should be OK. They have had this problem for about two years(that i know of). Don't take no for an answer. Ask them if they feel it is fair to pay 200 dollars a year to keep the unit working? If they say "well, they are good now" then you have gotten them to admit there was a problem.

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Hi

I got error codes 172 & 186 on my Chlormatic III (2 port cell, threaded sensor) about 8 months ago, replaced the sensor and everything was fixed.

Now, only 8 months later I'm getting the same error codes again. The error was intermittent at first, but is now continuous.

I checked and the warranty on parts is only 3 months :(

I've checked the voltages on the back-board test points, and all the AC voltages are okay (just a little high), but of course cannot test the 120mV DC output since the error is preventing the cell from turning on.

I don't want to pay out another $200 after only 8 months if there is any chance that the fault could be with the front board, or anything else.

According to the fault code list here http://www.discountpoolwarehouse.com/html/clormaitc_3_codes.html

code 186 means "Heated temperature sensor reading too high. Near 5 Volts. Generates a 172 code flow sensor service condition."

(the actual pool temperature is around 92 degrees)

Running the diagnostics, with the sensor disconnected, I got test readings of 2.8, 74F and90F

Does anyone have the pinout for the sensor connector ?

I'd like to check the input from the sensor to see if it really is high, to help double-check whether the fault is with the sensor or the front board.

Checking voltages on the sensor connector randomly, I do get a lot of high (5.5v) readings, but am not yet sure if this could be because the voltage supply to the sensor is too high.

(I'm assuming the temperature sensor part is just a thermistor, but not clear on how the other sensors function)

Any help that saves me from wasting more $$$ would be greatly appreciated.

I would really push Jandy on this one. This is something that happens due to a faulty part not from abuse or mistreatment. They know that there was a problem with the sensors and they should make good on this warranty. The new sensors are made with black epoxy and should be OK. They have had this problem for about two years(that i know of). Don't take no for an answer. Ask them if they feel it is fair to pay 200 dollars a year to keep the unit working? If they say "well, they are good now" then you have gotten them to admit there was a problem.

Thanks 'Pool Clown'

I'll try pushing them.

You mention that the new sensors are made with a black epoxy ... Is this the color of the actual plastic body that screws into the T, or of the epoxy used to hold the sensors into the assembly ? (The one I ordered from a retailer 8 months ago still has a grey plastic body, and I can't see any black epoxy)

If the assembly is at fault then I guess the problem is with the wiring inside the assembly failing ?

I'll let you know how I get on with hassling Jandy, which I'll try Monday.

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  • 9 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Thanks Pool Clown for sharing your wealth of knowledge with this as well as other forum communities.

I too have the model 1400 old 2 port style approx. 6 years old. Has been regularly maintained and working flawlessly. However it recently too has been intermittently showing "no flow". After covering all the basics I've read (IE. cleaning cell and filters, comparing salt and temp readings manually and through the sensor, cleaning the sensor and powering down the whole system) I decided it was the sensor especially since it was the old white epoxy type and the epoxy was starting to separate from the sensor surfaces. The new sensor does have the black epoxy but different in the fact that it came with a small electronic board at the end of the wire harness (new style I guess?). After following the install instructions everything went back to normal. Except that after a week of running it I noticed it was having trouble keeping up the CL level so I bumped it to 100%, still having trouble, so I bumped up the run time an hour, still having trouble, finally came home the other day to "no flow" again which seems to continue to be and intermittent issue thus my trouble keeping up the CL level. So after all this explanation, would you think this might be a front or back board issue or possibly a bad new sensor? If it is a board issue after this many years should I just upgrade the whole system?

Again, thanks for your time and expertise.

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  • 3 weeks later...

With my 2 year old 1400 unit, I am getting code 121.

I am only reading 3.8 volts at the connector on the cell.

The link that was posted earlier in this topic seems to be down, and I am having trouble finding specific info on testing the board.

Can someone please re-post the link to this troubleshooting info?

Thanks,

Mike

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Thanks Pool Clown for sharing your wealth of knowledge with this as well as other forum communities.

I too have the model 1400 old 2 port style approx. 6 years old. Has been regularly maintained and working flawlessly. However it recently too has been intermittently showing "no flow". After covering all the basics I've read (IE. cleaning cell and filters, comparing salt and temp readings manually and through the sensor, cleaning the sensor and powering down the whole system) I decided it was the sensor especially since it was the old white epoxy type and the epoxy was starting to separate from the sensor surfaces. The new sensor does have the black epoxy but different in the fact that it came with a small electronic board at the end of the wire harness (new style I guess?). After following the install instructions everything went back to normal. Except that after a week of running it I noticed it was having trouble keeping up the CL level so I bumped it to 100%, still having trouble, so I bumped up the run time an hour, still having trouble, finally came home the other day to "no flow" again which seems to continue to be and intermittent issue thus my trouble keeping up the CL level. So after all this explanation, would you think this might be a front or back board issue or possibly a bad new sensor? If it is a board issue after this many years should I just upgrade the whole system?

Again, thanks for your time and expertise.

Re-calibrate the the flow switch as outlined in your instructions(hold the little button till the light comes on).

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With my 2 year old 1400 unit, I am getting code 121.

I am only reading 3.8 volts at the connector on the cell.

The link that was posted earlier in this topic seems to be down, and I am having trouble finding specific info on testing the board.

Can someone please re-post the link to this troubleshooting info?

Thanks,

Mike

If its mine, i'll try to fix it. Do you remember what post # it was?

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  • 1 year later...

Hi everyone- I have a 3 yr old Jandy model Apurem and PL1400

No flow and cell reversing lights were on. Sensor was white epoxy. Replaced with a new one with black epoxy with little circuit board on the connector.

It flowed for awhile and now it says no flow again, but cell reversing light is NOT on.

Hi Pool Clown, any ideas on what to do? The water flow look normal and system is clean.

Thanks

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After the wait message goes off, push the button again on the little board.

Thanks Pool Clown,

I did that and I think everything's working again.

I do seem to see cell resting and reversing a lot now, but at least the "no flow" light is gone.

I clicked on the "Like This" button on your post but I got an error message of "You have reached your quota of positive votes for the day"

Which is weird because your post is the only one I've ever clicked on the button for.

Sincere thank you.

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