Can I Fix A Leaky Pvc Pipe?

[AquaBlue]

I'm a newbie to this forum. Have a 13,000 gallon 14' x 28' inground pool, with a Hayward D.E. filter. After opening our pool yesterday, my husband and I noted a small, dripping leak coming from underneath the area near where two PVC pipes connect. (These PVC pipes are visible, above ground).

Last year, same scenario (but a nearby pipe fixture) cost us $160 to have the Pool installer plumbing expert come out and repair it (plus 2-3 days loss of swim time).

Can we do anything (tape? glue? or ?) to patch it and save $160? Thanks in advance; money is very tight now, as I've been unemployed for 14 months and could use any suggested "patch."

Thanks!

[Wobbly]

I'm a newbie to this forum. Have a 13,000 gallon 14' x 28' inground pool, with a Hayward D.E. filter. After opening our pool yesterday, my husband and I noted a small, dripping leak coming from underneath the area near where two PVC pipes connect. (These PVC pipes are visible, above ground).

Last year, same scenario (but a nearby pipe fixture) cost us $160 to have the Pool installer plumbing expert come out and repair it (plus 2-3 days loss of swim time).

Can we do anything (tape? glue? or ?) to patch it and save $160? Thanks in advance; money is very tight now, as I've been unemployed for 14 months and could use any suggested "patch."

Thanks!

3M 08101 Structural Adhesive worked for me for PVC pressure piping. It's urethane, not epoxy. In shear adhesion test with rigid PVC,

the PVC breaks before the adhesive bond (2000 PSI).

For even more strength, fiberglass cloth can be embedded in the patch. I patched our sand filter base which was broken into 3 pieces and used fiberglass mat for reinforcing.

Wear disposable gloves, and plan your application, because it sets rapidly.

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_U...CglXQ8JG35VSMbl

http://www.handsontools.com/3M-08101-Struc...90-reviews.html

[flatlander]

You should be able to fix it yourself. Is the drip near an elbow or other connection? If so there is probably a loose fitting/connection and all you may need to do is go around and tighten the clamps that hold the fittings together. If there are no clamps or it is in a middle section of pipe you can try to use a two part epoxy. Most hardware stores will sell the stuff.

If you think the pipe is broken or the elbow is completely cracked you should replace the section. Chance are if one fitting is shot most of the others will need replacing soon. It is not a huge job but can be a bit labor intensive. You will need to figure out how much pipe you'll need and how many fittings/elbows are required.

Shut your pump off and isolate the length of leaky pipe. If the run of pipe is 6 feet or less between cracks/connections you may as well change the whole length and the fittings at each end otherwise use a hand saw to cut about 6" to a foot on either side of the leak. Slip a connector fitting into one of the sawn ends and another into the next section slip your O clamps onto the connections - it may be overkill but I like to use two clamps above and below any connection which means you will need 8 clamps for a fix like this. Measure and cut the length of pipe you need and slip it onto each end of the connectors and slide into place. A little dish soap helps to slide the pipe onto the fitting. Tighten the clamps down and turn the pump back on. You may notice some drips at the new connections. Simply tighten the clamps until they disappear.

You should be able to buy all the materials you need at a hardware store like Home Depot - they may even offer installation advice or have a handyman who can help you out cheaper than the pool store.

Good Luck

[AquaBlue]

Thanks, to both of you very helpful posters!

It appears to me that the leak is coming from the area where the t-joint meets another pipe. More specifically, the leak is coming from the area directly where our pool installer applied some kind of cement? epoxy? glue? joint paste? ... but definitely *not* from a cracked pipe. (Forgive my total lack of plumbing knowledge here!)

My husband said the water is coming from the leaking of the silicone caulk that is sealing the PVC pipe joint, and he believes it is the *caulking* that has "gone bad."

My husband has more plumbing know-how than I do; and he thinks he can cut and re-do the caulking... but I cringe at the thought of "biting off more than we can chew."

In the best of both worlds here, would any "recaulk" ideas or suggestions be doable for us, versus having to cut/recut/recaulk, etc.??? (Trying to save $$$$, too!)

Thoughts? Suggestions?

Many thanks!

[flatlander]

It's really not that difficult for your husband to do - a bit time consuming and a pain in the neck though. He can try recaulking it but I'm guessing in the end the connection is failing and that is why it is leaking. In the long run it will be better to fix it right. And that advice is coming from a guy who prefers to take the short cuts

[Pool-newb]

I think if you follow Wobblys' instruction you'll be fine and it will go quick. But if you want to do it like the $160 guy, you can replace the leaking section.

Coming from someone that has replaced all of the plumbing once, several more parts of the plumbing again, and still has PVC glue on his pants from some stuff done today, I can tell you that working with PVC can is easy, can even be fun but it does take time.

I'm not sure what you mean by "silicone caulk". If there really is silicone caulk on a 1½" or 2" PVC pipe, I believe there was a boo-boo made somewhere.

Usually, when two pieces of PVC are put together, they are first primed with some purple stuff, then bonded with a (usually) clear PVC glue that actually softens the surfaces so that they slightly melt and fuse together. Additionally, the joints of the PVC pipes are slightly cone shaped so that when you push them together they will wedge without seating all the way - they will only seat properly once you have the glue on them.

The basic steps are for PVC are:

- figure out what you need and buy the parts (glue and purple primer too),

- cut out the old stuff (if you haven't turned off your pump by now you will notice ),

- cut the new parts to the proper length as needed

- do a temporary assembly with the new parts to make sure it all fits

- then smear purple primer on both surfaces of one the joints

- then smear glue on both surfaces of the joint

- and push the joint together within the next several seconds.

- Repeat the last 3 steps as often as necessary until you have all the joints done.

If you've never done PVC before, your local hardware or home improvement store will be glad to show you (and of course then sell you) the proper parts and glues, and then show you how to use everything. If you take some photos (with a cell-phone perhaps?) of the leaky part with you into the store they may even be able to show you all the parts you need.

If you still feel a little nervous you can even purchase some extra parts and practice gluing them together.

But don't worry, it is a very easy thing to learn and do, and even if you mess up somewhere, repairing the mistakes are usually not difficult or expensive.

[AquaBlue]

Many, many thanks! I'm grateful for your kind and highly valued advice!! I'll show this to my husband, who assures me that I have no need to worry (he's a real 'handyman' at that).

I appreciate all the points you mentioned and helpful tips. Thanks so much!!

I think if you follow Wobblys' instruction you'll be fine and it will go quick. But if you want to do it like the $160 guy, you can replace the leaking section.

Coming from someone that has replaced all of the plumbing once, several more parts of the plumbing again, and still has PVC glue on his pants from some stuff done today, I can tell you that working with PVC can is easy, can even be fun but it does take time.

I'm not sure what you mean by "silicone caulk". If there really is silicone caulk on a 1½" or 2" PVC pipe, I believe there was a boo-boo made somewhere.

Usually, when two pieces of PVC are put together, they are first primed with some purple stuff, then bonded with a (usually) clear PVC glue that actually softens the surfaces so that they slightly melt and fuse together. Additionally, the joints of the PVC pipes are slightly cone shaped so that when you push them together they will wedge without seating all the way - they will only seat properly once you have the glue on them.

The basic steps are for PVC are:

- figure out what you need and buy the parts (glue and purple primer too),

- cut out the old stuff (if you haven't turned off your pump by now you will notice ),

- cut the new parts to the proper length as needed

- do a temporary assembly with the new parts to make sure it all fits

- then smear purple primer on both surfaces of one the joints

- then smear glue on both surfaces of the joint

- and push the joint together within the next several seconds.

- Repeat the last 3 steps as often as necessary until you have all the joints done.

If you've never done PVC before, your local hardware or home improvement store will be glad to show you (and of course then sell you) the proper parts and glues, and then show you how to use everything. If you take some photos (with a cell-phone perhaps?) of the leaky part with you into the store they may even be able to show you all the parts you need.

If you still feel a little nervous you can even purchase some extra parts and practice gluing them together.

But don't worry, it is a very easy thing to learn and do, and even if you mess up somewhere, repairing the mistakes are usually not difficult or expensive.

[Pool-newb]

Thanks so much!!

Glad I could help, let us know how it goes!

[jeffwltrs]

I have a tiny hole in an elbow! It is under 2 pvc pipes and very hard to get to. What is the best way to fix this leak?

[INDY K]

I might be late to the party

 

Clean the area and use a 2 part pvc repair putty or epoxy, let it sit and cure, the fire the system and inspect the results, sometimes it will work under pressure, this all depends on what you really have going in there. 

90’s can be easily replaced if there accessible by cutting flush with the fitting and attach a new 90 with sch40 pipe extenders, vs links. Pre prime and glue the extenders to the new 90 and then slide it together with the existing plumbing you gain less than 1/16 of an inch or so each side of the fitting but Im sure you could live with that.

Can you use pvc shears or a cable saw under there?