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This topic comes up quite a bit, so I thought I'd post a How To guide.

Decontamination is the process of Super Shocking to Kill and Oxidize everything in your tub. There are two reasons why you would want to do this. One is your tub contains an excess amount of organic waste, and is using large amounts of sanitizer. The other is you have bacteria actively growing in your tub that has formed a protective shield (Biofilm), and cannot be killed from normal sanitation levels. The former is easy to tell by measuring sanitation levels, but the latter is more difficult (usually not until after you start getting sick).

This may sound extreme to some, but I recommend decontaminating any used tub that changes hands. You have no way of knowing how a used tub was maintained before you got it. Why chance getting sick?!? You have nothing to lose, and nice clean, safe tub to gain.

So how do you do a decontamination?!? Here's how.

1. Use an enzyme to clean out your pipes, such as Swirl Away, Spa Flush etc. Add this product, run the jets 30 mins and let sit overnight. It will clean out your pipes and deposit the gunk along the water line. Wipe the waterline with a dry paper towel or cloth. Make sure you remove your filter before adding this product. Better yet, buy a new filter.

2. The next day, drain your tub and clean the walls with some leftover enzyme from step one.

3. Refill tub as high as possible (above the normal waterline) with fresh water, and install filter.

4. Balance your water at this point. TA = 80 ppm and pH = 7.2. If your pH is too far out of range, it will decrease the effectiveness of the Chlorine.

5. Add 50 ppm FC using Regular Clorox 6% Unscented Bleach. That's approx. 1/4 gal (32 oz) per 350 gal tub.

6. Run all jets and air features for 30-60 mins. You can turn the air on and off every 10 mins, to help clean the air lines.

7. Cut the power and drain the tub. This water is highly chlorinated, so you may want to keep it away from vegetation.

8. While the tub is draining clean the cover and all shell surfaces with the super chlorinated water. Then rinse well.

9. Refill tub with fresh water.

10. Balance water.

Test your Chlorine Demand to make sure the Decontamination worked by doing the following.

11. Shock with Dichlor (Stabilized Chlorine) to 10 ppm FC. Don't use the tub, let the jets run 10 mins, cover and let sit 24 hours.

12. Check FC. If FC is 5 ppm or above, you're ok. If it's zero, your tub is still using excess Chlorine, and needs to be decontaminated again (Absent the Spa Flush). However, this should be rare.

After this procedure your tub should be clean like new. If you maintain your water properly, your should never have to do this again.

Happy Clean Tubing! :)

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This topic comes up quite a bit, so I thought I'd post a How To guide.

Decontamination is the process of Super Shocking to Kill and Oxidize everything in your tub. There are two reasons why you would want to do this. One is your tub contains an excess amount of organic waste, and is using large amounts of sanitizer. The other is you have bacteria actively growing in your tub that has formed a protective shield (Biofilm), and cannot be killed from normal sanitation levels. The former is easy to tell by measuring sanitation levels, but the latter is more difficult (usually not until after you start getting sick).

This may sound extreme to some, but I recommend decontaminating any used tub that changes hands. You have no way of knowing how a used tub was maintained before you got it. Why chance getting sick?!? You have nothing to lose, and nice clean, safe tub to gain.

So how do you do a decontamination?!? Here's how.

1. Use an enzyme to clean out your pipes, such as Swirl Away, Spa Flush etc. Add this product, run the jets 30 mins and let sit overnight. It will clean out your pipes and deposit the gunk along the water line. Wipe the waterline with a dry paper towel or cloth. Make sure you remove your filter before adding this product. Better yet, buy a new filter.

2. The next day, drain your tub and clean the walls with some leftover enzyme from step one.

3. Refill tub as high as possible (above the normal waterline) with fresh water.

4. Balance your water at this point. TA = 80 ppm and pH = 7.2. If your pH is too far out of range, it will decrease the effectiveness of the Chlorine.

5. Add 50 ppm FC using Regular Clorox 6% Unscented Bleach. That's approx. 1/4 gal (32 oz) per 350 gal tub.

6. Run all jets and air features for 30-60 mins. You can turn the air on and off every 10 mins, to help clean the air lines.

7. Cut the power and drain the tub. This water is highly chlorinated, so you may want to keep it away from vegetation.

8. While the tub is draining clean the cover and all shell surfaces with the super chlorinated water. Then rinse well.

9. Refill tub with fresh water.

10. Balance water.

Test your Chlorine Demand to make sure the Decontamination worked by doing the following.

11. Shock with Dichlor (Stabilized Chlorine) to 10 ppm FC. Don't use the tub, let the jets run 10 mins, cover and let sit 24 hours.

12. Check FC. If FC is 5 ppm or above, you're ok. If it's zero, your tub is still using excess Chlorine, and needs to be decontaminated again (Absent the Spa Flush). However, this should be rare.

After this procedure your tub should be clean like new. If you maintain your water properly, your should never have to do this again.

Happy Clean Tubing! :)

Will this be good to use with a bromine based water?

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Will this be good to use with a bromine based water?

Yes, except you stop after step 10 of the decontamination procedure and do not add CYA (stabilizer/conditioner) nor use Dichlor. They are not needed for a bromine spa. After decontamination, you add either bromine tabs or sodium bromide and shock, depending on which bromine method you are using.

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Can I do the spa flush and dichlor-based superchlorination at the same time or sequentially and flush once?

Spa flush first, drain, then chlorine. Spa flush will help remove stuff from in the lines ect, but will not decontaminate. Chlorine decontaminates.

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Can I do the spa flush and dichlor-based superchlorination at the same time or sequentially and flush once?

Spa flush first, drain, then chlorine. Spa flush will help remove stuff from in the lines ect, but will not decontaminate. Chlorine decontaminates.

I have to drain again after the super chlorination?

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Im switching from baqua spa to nature2. Do you think it would be alright to just use spa flush, drain and replace the filters? Then refilling it, adding the n2 cartridge and MPS and calling it a day?

Unfortunately in s. cali were on tight water regulations so I cant keep emptying it and refilling it twice.

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I have to drain again after the super chlorination?

If you don't you'll have Super Chlorinated water in your tub, which will last for days. Not recommended. However, you can use Hydrogen Peroxide to neutralize the Chlorine. I'm not sure on the amount.

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Im switching from baqua spa to nature2. Do you think it would be alright to just use spa flush, drain and replace the filters? Then refilling it, adding the n2 cartridge and MPS and calling it a day?

Unfortunately in s. cali were on tight water regulations so I cant keep emptying it and refilling it twice.

I believe if you don't super chlorinate, when you add a little amount of chlorine in the tub, it will react with the baqua and turn into pea soup.

You may be able to keep the water after the second fill by first Super Shocking, then using Hydrogen Peroxide to lower the Chlorine level. However, after seeing your tub convert from baqua, you may want to refill.

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Can I do the spa flush and dichlor-based superchlorination at the same time or sequentially and flush once?

Spa flush first, drain, then chlorine. Spa flush will help remove stuff from in the lines ect, but will not decontaminate. Chlorine decontaminates.

I have to drain again after the super chlorination?

To be more specific, I can't run spa flush and super chlorinate in the same water... and then drain?

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To be more specific, I can't run spa flush and super chlorinate in the same water... and then drain?

No. You want to add Spa Flush by itself. Spa Flush is an enzyme that may be killed off by the high chlorine level.

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Hi guys.. so I'm getting ready to do the decontamination and switch from baqua spa to nature 2 setup this is what I am purchasing. Can you pls let me know if I'm missing anything? I don not have an ozonator in the tub. Also I'm using city water and usually the only thing I need to balance it is calcium increaser:

for decon:

1- spa flush

1- bleach

2- new filters

1lb - dichlor sanitizing granules

1- oxy spa non chlorine mps

1- nature2 filter

1- calcium hardness increaser (can I use the baqua spa one?)

Am I missing anything?

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Hi guys.. so I'm getting ready to do the decontamination and switch from baqua spa to nature 2 setup this is what I am purchasing. Can you pls let me know if I'm missing anything? I don not have an ozonator in the tub. Also I'm using city water and usually the only thing I need to balance it is calcium increaser:

for decon:

1- spa flush

1- bleach

2- new filters

1lb - dichlor sanitizing granules

1- oxy spa non chlorine mps

1- nature2 filter

1- calcium hardness increaser (can I use the baqua spa one?)

Am I missing anything?

You may need Dry Acid (pH/TA Down). What is you TA at now? You also may want to get a drop test kit such as the Taylor K-2006. It will make maintaining your water a lot easier.

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My water is usually pretty good from the tap.. the only thing is that it needs the calcium hardness increaser.. I will look into getting that kit.

Thanks alot NItro your always a big help :D

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My water is usually pretty good from the tap.. the only thing is that it needs the calcium hardness increaser.. I will look into getting that kit.

Thanks alot NItro your always a big help :D

My water is good from the tap also (Lake Michigan). However, good from the tap doesn't mean good for the tub. If you use the Dichlor/Bleach method, you're going to need to adjust your TA to 50-60 ppm. My tap has 100 ppm TA. Without knowing what your TA is you're in the dark. With that test kit, you'll be in the light.

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Is there any cheaper kits out there? Thats alot of money just to test water

You spent how many thousands of dollars on the hot tub itself, now you're worried about a 70 dollar test kit?

First, the kit should last a long time. Then you can buy reagents in 2 oz size and save money. It's really not that expensive after the upfront cost.

Second, you'll make up for it in the chemicals you save by making precise measurements, and are able to keep your water maintained.

Third, and most important. The doctor bill you get after you get a nasty bacteria infection will be much higher then the test kit.

Bottom line: if you try to maintain your water without a good drop test kit, you will have problems. Be warned, don't mess around with a Hot Tub. It can be very dangerous to you and your family if the water is not maintained properly. Don't risk it!

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I recommend These test strips for making quick FC measurements. BUT you're still going to need a Drop Test Kit to measure CD, TA, pH, CH and CYA. You cannot measure them with any precision using Guess (Test) Strips.

I got the leslie's pool test kit which is pretty much the taylor kit but with leslie name on it and $20 bucks cheaper :D

Today I put half a bottle of Spa flush (350 gal jacuzzi) in and ran the jets for 30 min.. I got alot of foam but not much if any deposit.. I know my water not balance but my question is when I empty it out tomorrow and refill, add the colorox and some mps can I put the rest of the spa flush in again and run the jets then empty? or will it nor react well with the colorox?

btw when I was at leslie I had them test my water from tap and this is what I got:

FAC= 2

TAC=2

PH=7.5

TA=80

CYA=0

It looks like its pretty balanced from the tap with exception of the chlorine level..

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I got the leslie's pool test kit which is pretty much the taylor kit but with leslie name on it and $20 bucks cheaper :D

I'm not familar with the kit you got, but I'd be willing to bet it's not the same as the Taylor K-2006. Just curious, when you measure Free Chlorine (FC), do you count drops or do you compare the color?

Today I put half a bottle of Spa flush (350 gal jacuzzi) in and ran the jets for 30 min.. I got alot of foam but not much if any deposit.. I know my water not balance but my question is when I empty it out tomorrow and refill, add the colorox and some mps can I put the rest of the spa flush in again and run the jets then empty? or will it nor react well with the colorox?

Why would you put the rest Spa Flush in? Just save it for next time.

btw when I was at leslie I had them test my water from tap and this is what I got:

FAC= 2

TAC=2

PH=7.5

TA=80

CYA=0

It looks like its pretty balanced from the tap with exception of the chlorine level..

Looks good, but you still may need to lower TA to 50-60, IF you plan on using the Dichlor/Bleach method.

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I got the leslie's pool test kit which is pretty much the taylor kit but with leslie name on it and $20 bucks cheaper :D

I'm not familar with the kit you got, but I'd be willing to bet it's not the same as the Taylor K-2006. Just curious, when you measure Free Chlorine (FC), do you count drops or do you compare the color?

You compare colors.. ALl the chemicals are from taylor.. Even the instruction booklet says taylor! It literally looks like all they did was get there own box and slap there Leslie logo on it..

Today I put half a bottle of Spa flush (350 gal jacuzzi) in and ran the jets for 30 min.. I got alot of foam but not much if any deposit.. I know my water not balance but my question is when I empty it out tomorrow and refill, add the colorox and some mps can I put the rest of the spa flush in again and run the jets then empty? or will it nor react well with the colorox?

Why would you put the rest Spa Flush in? Just save it for next time.

Well my theory is because my water is so out of sync that the spa flush isnt working because the water is not balanced..

btw when I was at leslie I had them test my water from tap and this is what I got:

FAC= 2

TAC=2

PH=7.5

TA=80

CYA=0

It looks like its pretty balanced from the tap with exception of the chlorine level..

Looks good, but you still may need to lower TA to 50-60, IF you plan on using the Dichlor/Bleach method.

If I'm using nature2 and mps/dichlor do I still need the TA to be at 50-60? The N2 manual said 80- 120

Also do you think because my tap water has chlorine thats whats making baqua spa not work for my spa? or is baqua spa crap either way lol

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If I'm using nature2 and mps/dichlor do I still need the TA to be at 50-60? The N2 manual said 80- 120

If your using N2 with MPS/Dichlor, you can leave your TA at 80ppm. Be careful using N2 though. Make sure you always have either Chlorine and/or MPS in the tub at all times. If you have more than 2 people soaking, I recommend you have some Chlorine (1-3 ppm) in the tub with MPS. I'm still not convinced N2 with MPS alone is enough during high bather loads, but I could be wrong. Better to be safe than sorry.

Also do you think because my tap water has chlorine thats whats making baqua spa not work for my spa? or is baqua spa crap either way lol

Yes and Yes

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If I'm using nature2 and mps/dichlor do I still need the TA to be at 50-60? The N2 manual said 80- 120

If your using N2 with MPS/Dichlor, you can leave your TA at 80ppm. Be careful using N2 though. Make sure you always have either Chlorine and/or MPS in the tub at all times. If you have more than 2 people soaking, I recommend you have some Chlorine (1-3 ppm) in the tub with MPS. I'm still not convinced N2 with MPS alone is enough during high bather loads, but I could be wrong. Better to be safe than sorry.

When you say chlorine, do you mean the dichlor?

ANd thanks for the advice again! :D

btw

this is the kit I got:

http://www.lesliespool.com/browse/Home/Wat...:400000/I/81330

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