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Sundance Heater Always On


skeetpick

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I have a Sundance 701, 1991, Sentry (Marin), Balboa panel. I replaced the heater element with exact replacement part 25-24042.It has 3 leads for 220v, black,white & green(ground),replaced exactly the same. After replacement whenever there is power to the spa, the element is heating, regardless of flow sensor, temp settings, or water flow. Meaning, if there is no flow (jets not circulating) the element overheats (boils) the water in the element compartment, causes an overheat which disconnects total power to the spa. I can't use the spa normally, as I have to shut the power off at the breaker box immediately after the flow is turned off to avoid boiling the water an causing an overheat. Question, what could have changed to cause this problem after just unhooking the old element and hooking up the three wires to the new one. Help will be appreciated. Skeetpick

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It sounds like you have a stuck relay on the board and if this is the problem you would need to replace it. It is possible in most cases to have the relay replaced for a fraction of the cost of a new Sundance Board and it should be done by someone that is familiar with how spa boards work.

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It sounds like you have a stuck relay on the board and if this is the problem you would need to replace it. It is possible in most cases to have the relay replaced for a fraction of the cost of a new Sundance Board and it should be done by someone that is familiar with how spa boards work.

I wonder if the relay and the heater went at the same time. Or if the faulty heater may have caused the relay failure. Or visa-versa.

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It sounds like you have a stuck relay on the board and if this is the problem you would need to replace it. It is possible in most cases to have the relay replaced for a fraction of the cost of a new Sundance Board and it should be done by someone that is familiar with how spa boards work.

I wonder if the relay and the heater went at the same time. Or if the faulty heater may have caused the relay failure. Or visa-versa.

The one post had rusted off the heater element plate. So before replacement I ran the heater with only one lead attached, figured it was probably 110v. It heated up OK, and other than being slow (probably 1/2 the heat) the timer and temp functions worked OK. So before the element was replaced, the panel/board was still working OK. Just when I switched it, the tried the new, the heat would not shut off. Coincidence? Can you ever tap on the relays to "unfreeze" or "unstick" them? Thanks for the comments. Skeetpick

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It sounds like you have a stuck relay on the board and if this is the problem you would need to replace it. It is possible in most cases to have the relay replaced for a fraction of the cost of a new Sundance Board and it should be done by someone that is familiar with how spa boards work.

I wonder if the relay and the heater went at the same time. Or if the faulty heater may have caused the relay failure. Or visa-versa.

The one post had rusted off the heater element plate. So before replacement I ran the heater with only one lead attached, figured it was probably 110v. It heated up OK, and other than being slow (probably 1/2 the heat) the timer and temp functions worked OK. So before the element was replaced, the panel/board was still working OK. Just when I switched it, the tried the new, the heat would not shut off. Coincidence? Can you ever tap on the relays to "unfreeze" or "unstick" them? Thanks for the comments. Skeetpick

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The element will not work unless you have 2 wires going to it, you could only get residual heat coming from the motor and water seal. Yes you can sometimes tap on them and break them free, but it won't be long before it's welded shut again and then you may take the element out a second time. You've got a serious problem and for your safety and others that use the tub you need to get it fixed by a pro.

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The element will not work unless you have 2 wires going to it, you could only get residual heat coming from the motor and water seal. Yes you can sometimes tap on them and break them free, but it won't be long before it's welded shut again and then you may take the element out a second time. You've got a serious problem and for your safety and others that use the tub you need to get it fixed by a pro.

Thank you very much. I'll bite the bullet and call the spa guy, and, from past experience, I'll get ready to bend over again. SP

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The element will not work unless you have 2 wires going to it, you could only get residual heat coming from the motor and water seal. Yes you can sometimes tap on them and break them free, but it won't be long before it's welded shut again and then you may take the element out a second time. You've got a serious problem and for your safety and others that use the tub you need to get it fixed by a pro.

Thank you very much. I'll bite the bullet and call the spa guy, and, from past experience, I'll get ready to bend over again. SP

After the above post, decided to try what we used to do to distributor points. Took a fine emery board and slid it between the contacts on all the relays (since I didn't know which one might be stuck/fused/welded shut). Now the spa works normally. Oh well, we'll see how long it lasts. Skeetpick

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