us5camp Posted January 12, 2009 Report Share Posted January 12, 2009 Newbie here .... did search, looking to solidify a couple of things on test kits, strips. Looking to buy a Taylor test kit. ? is, which one. Main Chemical's used in Hot Tub are in the Nature2 system... Nature2, MPS, Dichlor. So, which test kit in the Taylor family would be appropriate. In another post a user recommended which tests we may need, but they have a zillion test kits on the web, which is most appropriate and reasonable? Also, What's a good source of online supplies. We live a ways from anywhere, so online is how we'll likely buy most items (testing, chemicals, etc). ?? Test Strips... any better than others? We have the Nature2 Strips and some older ones left by the previous owner by Leisure Time. They seem easy enough to read, looking to verify accuracy. pH is difficult for me to read on these test strips. I know it's not at either extreme, but have trouble figuring out the correct pH as that orangish square is so marbled that the outside of the square looks like low pH and the center of the square looks like a 7.4 pH, so am confused if pH is correct or not. Thx, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
General Beluga Posted January 13, 2009 Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 Newbie here .... did search, looking to solidify a couple of things on test kits, strips. Looking to buy a Taylor test kit. ? is, which one. Main Chemical's used in Hot Tub are in the Nature2 system... Nature2, MPS, Dichlor. So, which test kit in the Taylor family would be appropriate. In another post a user recommended which tests we may need, but they have a zillion test kits on the web, which is most appropriate and reasonable? Also, What's a good source of online supplies. We live a ways from anywhere, so online is how we'll likely buy most items (testing, chemicals, etc). ?? Test Strips... any better than others? We have the Nature2 Strips and some older ones left by the previous owner by Leisure Time. They seem easy enough to read, looking to verify accuracy. pH is difficult for me to read on these test strips. I know it's not at either extreme, but have trouble figuring out the correct pH as that orangish square is so marbled that the outside of the square looks like low pH and the center of the square looks like a 7.4 pH, so am confused if pH is correct or not. Thx, I live in SoCal and went to Leslie's Pools and they have a test kit with their name on it but it is a Taylor kit and all of the chemicals have the Tayor brand. Get the one that tests Dichlor (chlorine) as you are using N2 you cannot use Bromine. As far as the strips are concerned, I use the ones made by Nature 2 for MPS. Leisure Time is a good brand as well but, someone else on the board might have a better choice. Figuring out the color test match can be tricky. I have found that the PH on my test strips usually registers a little high, ie, slightly on the red side but, when I use the Taylor Kit, it is right on the money at 7.6. When using the Taylor Kit, remember, you are not checking for darkness of the color but, more the "hue "of the color, if that makes any sense. In other words, pink is still pink regardless of how dark it is. When using test strips, you must take an immediate reading as soon as you take it out of the water. If you wait a while the colors will start to change and some will go half one color and half another. That usually means that you waited too long to read them. Here is where I go for on-line supplies. They have great prices, reasonable shipping and they are very fast' usually in the same week! http://www.hottubworks.com/HotTubSpaFilter...lter_Search.php Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chem geek Posted January 13, 2009 Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 The best test kit is either the Taylor K-2006 found at a good online price here or the TF100 kit from tftestkits.com here with the latter kit having 36% more volume of reagents so is comparably priced "per test". The next best would be the Taylor K-2005 though it won't test chlorine as accurately and will bleach out at high chlorine levels above 10 ppm FC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
General Beluga Posted January 13, 2009 Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 The best test kit is either the Taylor K-2006 found at a good online price here or the TF100 kit from tftestkits.com here with the latter kit having 36% more volume of reagents so is comparably priced "per test". The next best would be the Taylor K-2005 though it won't test chlorine as accurately and will bleach out at high chlorine levels above 10 ppm FC. Chem Geek, The two kits you recommended above are the very best and most accurate available but, for us non-chemist types who just want a clean, healthy spa and want to keep the water maintenance SIMPLE, I have found that the small Taylor kit (and N2 MPS strips) sold under the Leslie Pools Deluxe Pool Care DPD Test Kit label is more than adequate. Although it only tests for free and total Clorine, bromine, PH, Acid Demand and TA, if you have a spa with an ozonator and are using a N2 system requiring a lower dichlor usage, and you drain your spa ever three or four months as recommended, are the more robust (and expensive) test kits really necessary for the average casual home spa user? I could see it in a commercial spa or pool setting but, in the home, it seems to me like an over kill and twice as expensive to buy and refill. Besides only a "Chem Geek" would fully undestand what all those chemical values and numbers meant anyway! John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chem geek Posted January 13, 2009 Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 It's usually a good idea to have a handle on your Calcium Hardness (CH) level in order to prevent scaling. If you know the CH in the fill water isn't high, then it's level should remain fairly stable in the tub. As for Cyanuric Acid (CYA), if you change the water frequently and don't use a lot of Dichlor then you're right that it may not get that high so wouldn't need to be tested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
General Beluga Posted January 13, 2009 Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 It's usually a good idea to have a handle on your Calcium Hardness (CH) level in order to prevent scaling. If you know the CH in the fill water isn't high, then it's level should remain fairly stable in the tub. As for Cyanuric Acid (CYA), if you change the water frequently and don't use a lot of Dichlor then you're right that it may not get that high so wouldn't need to be tested. I agree and forgot to mention that I do keep a few of the Leisure Time Chlorine test strips around just to test the initial CH level when I refill the spa. Since the CH value remains relatively stable between refills, the strips last a long time and are good for the neighbor kid to use when he is maintaining our spa while the wife and I are cruising the Caribbean dive sites! Thank you for your continuing great advise and input! I really appreciate it! John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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