Treating A Cedar Hot Tub

[limulus]

We are installing a cedar tub with an ionizer. The ionizer manual says to keep the chlorine level at .4 ppm or Bromine at .8 ppm. I don't know if I totally trust that (sounds a little low). I'm not opposed to either chlorine or Bromine...I just want the simplest sanitizing method. I'm also willing to spend a little more money for simplicity.

My main goals are:

1. maintaining premium water conditions

2. tub longevity

3. water conservation (I'd like to limit water changes to every 3-4 mos).

I've read about Bromine and I think a 3-step system sounds about right. If I understand correctly, I need to shock about once per week using MPS. I think my main confusion is what I read in the ionizer manual about maintaining Bromine at .8 ppm (sounds low). If I follow the 3-step guideline for Bromine and use the ionizer, will I have any problems? Also, the other BIG concern is damage to the wood tub with these chemicals.

From the ionizer manual:

"Proper oxidation can be accomplished in several ways, all of which are effective:

• Maintain a constant Chlorine residual of .4 ppm or Bromine at .8 ppm

• Add 1 quart of liquid bleach per 10,000 gallons on a weekly basis

• Add 1 pound of a non-chlorine (such as potassium monopersulfate) per 10,000 gallons on a weekly

basis. This product is available in most pool stores."

I think the section of the manual above is probably poorly written. I don't think I need to add the bleach if I use bromine. I should just add the MPS, correct?

Thanks in advance

[limulus]

After more reading, I've decided to purchase or at least they are on my list to purchase a few things:

1. Taylor 2106 test kit

2. Leisure Time Sodium Bromide

3. Leisure Time bromine tablets

4. Sea-Klear chlorine-free shock (MPS)

5. Floating bromide feeder

LeisureTime has a product called OZ tablets that look very convenient. But, I think we can handle measuring the powder.

Does this sound about right for use with our ionizer? If anyone has better suggestions, please let me know.

[Hillbilly Hot Tub]

After more reading, I've decided to purchase or at least they are on my list to purchase a few things:

1. Taylor 2106 test kit

2. Leisure Time Sodium Bromide

3. Leisure Time bromine tablets

4. Sea-Klear chlorine-free shock (MPS)

5. Floating bromide feeder

LeisureTime has a product called OZ tablets that look very convenient. But, I think we can handle measuring the powder.

Does this sound about right for use with our ionizer? If anyone has better suggestions, please let me know.

There is a gentleman on here that goes by Dr. Spa who's specialty is Cedar tubs. I would try to conect with him to help you do the best chemical regimine for your cedar tub.

What you are purchasing is great for most tubs, I just would make sure with the cedar what are the suggested chemicals. You also need PH increaser, Alk Increaser and PH decreaser.

[limulus]

Thanks for the reply and the tip about Dr Spa. I've done more reading and already added all those things to my list...it's getting long (I did remove the tablets and the floating dispenser). I do know that it isn't recommended to use chlorine on the cedar tubs. Most of the manufacturers recommend bromine and floating dispensers are not recommended, so I'm changing to a 2-step system. This thing holds 588-gal of water which is very precious around here. The last thing I want to do is have to dump nearly 600-gal of water and start over. I also don't want to have to dump it anymore than every 3mos.

[limulus]

But wait, there's more: After more extensive reading an communicating with wood tub manufacturers, I've decided to use SeaKlear, which is 100% MPS as an oxidizer along with the ionizer. I'll keep some bromine on hand but will run a very low concentration as recommended by the ionizer company. I'll post results in a few weeks.

[limulus]

deleted duplicate post

[Hillbilly Hot Tub]

Make sure to get pure bromine, sodium bromide. Most bromine has chlorine mixed in with it, such as the tablets and one step systems...Godd luck and enjoy!

[Dr. Spa]

Bromine is guaranteed to more quickly deteriorate a wooden hot tub that anything else.

[limulus]

Funny thing is, I've seen other cedar tub manufacturers say to stay away from chlorine. I'll use the ionizer and shock with MPS (seaklear or something like Rendezvous Activate). If I keep any bromine, it will be 1ppm max. The ionizer manufacturer says 0.8 ppm. I believe I read that the Spa Frog mineral system keeps bromine level at 1 ppm.

[Dr. Spa]

Chlorine will sanitize the water, and the excess will evaporate.

Bromine will sanitize the water, and the excess will eat away the wood.

MPS, same story as bromine, only faster (plus, it turns the bromide back into bromine...see above).

Drop an OZ tab in the tub, and it will start to burn a hole through the bottom (been there done that personally).

Keep my number handy and check back in 5 years

BTW, Pioneer knows nothing and has no experience with wooden hot tubs.

[limulus]

Doc, why weren't you that clear in your first message? To me, that makes sense. I guess I need to rethink my whole approach. A lot of cedar tub manufacturers say to use bromine, but what you say does make sense to me. Also, some of those same manufacturers say never use chlorine, but in their cleaning info, they say use a bleach and water solution to clean the sides of the tub Is MPS bad, or is it a combo of MPS and bromine?

[GraceR]

What number do you set your ionizer to with the use of bromine in a floater and other chemicals to keep the cedar tub balanced, ph, alk, clarifier clear?  Will bromine eat away the wood like everyone is saying?  Should I dip a ozone as well into my cedar with my ionizer and set the ozone on a timer?  This allows me not to use a lot of bromine?  My skin get irritated with chemicals.  Please advise of using both ozome and ionizer together.  I have an ozone in my cold plunge.  Dip it in the same way?