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Recalibrate Aqua Logic - Salt Level


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Over the past 6 weeks my AQL-PS-4 is reading approximately 1000 lower than the what the salt level shows when testing at several pools stores. Is there a way to recalibarate this to provide for an accurate reading? I get the same consistent low reading on both a positive and negative polarity.

Thanks.

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Over the past 6 weeks my AQL-PS-4 is reading approximately 1000 lower than the what the salt level shows when testing at several pools stores. Is there a way to recalibarate this to provide for an accurate reading? I get the same consistent low reading on both a positive and negative polarity.

Thanks.

The main reading that you first see is a average. Pressing the black button until the negative number show, that is what the cell is reading right now.

with the pump running take the switch from auto to off back to auto. This reread the salt level by the cell in the negative number setting.

Switch from auto to super chlorinate to auto will put the number on the main display(number with no - sign and erease all the average readings

The test strips for testing salt need to be timed properly. The longer you wait the high the salt reading will be even though it is not. If you are between 2700-3600 you are ok

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Over the past 6 weeks my AQL-PS-4 is reading approximately 1000 lower than the what the salt level shows when testing at several pools stores. Is there a way to recalibarate this to provide for an accurate reading? I get the same consistent low reading on both a positive and negative polarity.

Thanks.

The main reading that you first see is a average. Pressing the black button until the negative number show, that is what the cell is reading right now.

with the pump running take the switch from auto to off back to auto. This reread the salt level by the cell in the negative number setting.

Switch from auto to super chlorinate to auto will put the number on the main display(number with no - sign and erease all the average readings

The test strips for testing salt need to be timed properly. The longer you wait the high the salt reading will be even though it is not. If you are between 2700-3600 you are ok

Thank you for the quick response. Does this apply to the AQL-PS-4?

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Over the past 6 weeks my AQL-PS-4 is reading approximately 1000 lower than the what the salt level shows when testing at several pools stores. Is there a way to recalibarate this to provide for an accurate reading? I get the same consistent low reading on both a positive and negative polarity.

Thanks.

The main reading that you first see is a average. Pressing the black button until the negative number show, that is what the cell is reading right now.

with the pump running take the switch from auto to off back to auto. This reread the salt level by the cell in the negative number setting.

Switch from auto to super chlorinate to auto will put the number on the main display(number with no - sign and erease all the average readings

The test strips for testing salt need to be timed properly. The longer you wait the high the salt reading will be even though it is not. If you are between 2700-3600 you are ok

Thank you for the quick response. Does this apply to the AQL-PS-4?

I will have to check on that one

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Over the past 6 weeks my AQL-PS-4 is reading approximately 1000 lower than the what the salt level shows when testing at several pools stores. Is there a way to recalibarate this to provide for an accurate reading? I get the same consistent low reading on both a positive and negative polarity.

Thanks.

The main reading that you first see is a average. Pressing the black button until the negative number show, that is what the cell is reading right now.

with the pump running take the switch from auto to off back to auto. This reread the salt level by the cell in the negative number setting.

Switch from auto to super chlorinate to auto will put the number on the main display(number with no - sign and erease all the average readings

The test strips for testing salt need to be timed properly. The longer you wait the high the salt reading will be even though it is not. If you are between 2700-3600 you are ok

Thank you for the quick response. Does this apply to the AQL-PS-4?

In the dianostic mode you can get a instant salt reading from the cell. My book says to press and hold to make that reading the new set point for the averages. It does not say what button to hold though.

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In the diagnostic menu on the display which shows the instantaneous salt (second menu), press the plus (+) key and that will save the instantaneous salt reading as the average. However, there is no calibration involved at all. In fact, there is no way that I know of to calibrate the unit. The method mentioned here is to save the instantaneous salt level as the average. This does not calibrate the unit in any way.

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Over the past 6 weeks my AQL-PS-4 is reading approximately 1000 lower than the what the salt level shows when testing at several pools stores. Is there a way to recalibarate this to provide for an accurate reading? I get the same consistent low reading on both a positive and negative polarity.

Thanks.

The main reading that you first see is a average. Pressing the black button until the negative number show, that is what the cell is reading right now.

with the pump running take the switch from auto to off back to auto. This reread the salt level by the cell in the negative number setting.

Switch from auto to super chlorinate to auto will put the number on the main display(number with no - sign and erease all the average readings

The test strips for testing salt need to be timed properly. The longer you wait the high the salt reading will be even though it is not. If you are between 2700-3600 you are ok

Thank you for the quick response. Does this apply to the AQL-PS-4?

I will have to check on that one

Thank you all for the suggestions and taking the time to post.

I'm actually looking for an unpublished sequence of buttons than can be pushed on the AQL-PS-4 to reset / recalibrate the salt reading. I have had the water tested several times at different pools stores. The AQL-PS-4 Aqua Logic is consistently reading about 1000 ppm lower than what the pool stores are showing. If anyone can post the sequence of buttons that when followed resets the salt reading it would be greatly appreciated.

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Thank you all for your insight and taking the time to post.

I'm actually looking for an unpublished sequence of buttons that can be pushed to reset the AQL-PS-4 Aqua Logic salt reading. I have tested the water on several occasions at different pools stores and the AQL-PS-4 is consistently reading 1000 ppm lower than the pool stores are showing.

Thanks in advance.

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I still highly recommend you test your salt level w/ AquaChek White (salt) strips before proceeding. Test at least twice, in different areas of the pool. If you read this forum much, you'll learn that most test strips are inaccurate, w/ a couple exceptions - Richard (Chem Geek) recommends the AquaChek White strips and I have found them quite accurate. You can always correct your salt level per the AquaCheck test results and re-calibrate, etc. the unit later.

I wouldn't calibrate and/or reset your SWG for an "average" reading until checking the levels for myself.

Re: your question, I would contact Hayward directly. I couldn't locate a phone number, but they do have a webpage for email inquiries.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi there, this is my first post on this forum and I just joined today. Anyway, I am a warranty station in California for Hayward Pool Products and Goldline Controls. Hayward owns Goldline which manufacturs the Aquarite, AquaLogic, and ProLogic Salt and Automation systems.

The ps4 is in the aqualogic family. The first response for calibration was for the aquarite, not the aqualogic.

Anyway, you need to press the menu button to get to the diagnostic screen. there you should see a water temp, amperage, and voltage rating, and your instant salt reading. You can hit the plus or minus button and that will restart a new countdown. you can check both sides of the cell this way. each time you do this, it should reverse polarity and that will be denoted by the positive or negative sign in front of the readings. After getting the readings, you can hit the right arrow button and then plus to save that new instant salt reading. Your main screen will now show the new reading that you just forced it to take. The reading you see at the default screen is a 2 hour average. The reading you see in diagnostics is the reading in the cell rite at that moment. aka instant salt reading.

your initial post stated that your reading was 1000 ppm less than what was being tested independantly.

This indicates some other problem and not a calibration problem. Either your salt testing results are wrong, the actual reading is out of the proper range, or the two more common reasons are that the cell is dirty and in this case very dirty or the cell is bad.

I would start with verifying the salt reading with a meter and not test strips. Your local pool store should be able to do this for you. make sure it is indeed between 2800 and 3500. Then clean your cell properly. Make absolutely sure there is no scale on it. If you still have a problem after that then you most likely have a failing cell. The amperage and voltage readings in the diagnostics screen (with a clean cell) would help confirm that.

I hope that helps and good luck.

Paul

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Hi there, this is my first post on this forum and I just joined today. Anyway, I am a warranty station in California for Hayward Pool Products and Goldline Controls. Hayward owns Goldline which manufacturs the Aquarite, AquaLogic, and ProLogic Salt and Automation systems.

The ps4 is in the aqualogic family. The first response for calibration was for the aquarite, not the aqualogic.

Anyway, you need to press the menu button to get to the diagnostic screen. there you should see a water temp, amperage, and voltage rating, and your instant salt reading. You can hit the plus or minus button and that will restart a new countdown. you can check both sides of the cell this way. each time you do this, it should reverse polarity and that will be denoted by the positive or negative sign in front of the readings. After getting the readings, you can hit the right arrow button and then plus to save that new instant salt reading. Your main screen will now show the new reading that you just forced it to take. The reading you see at the default screen is a 2 hour average. The reading you see in diagnostics is the reading in the cell rite at that moment. aka instant salt reading.

your initial post stated that your reading was 1000 ppm less than what was being tested independantly.

This indicates some other problem and not a calibration problem. Either your salt testing results are wrong, the actual reading is out of the proper range, or the two more common reasons are that the cell is dirty and in this case very dirty or the cell is bad.

I would start with verifying the salt reading with a meter and not test strips. Your local pool store should be able to do this for you. make sure it is indeed between 2800 and 3500. Then clean your cell properly. Make absolutely sure there is no scale on it. If you still have a problem after that then you most likely have a failing cell. The amperage and voltage readings in the diagnostics screen (with a clean cell) would help confirm that.

I hope that helps and good luck.

Paul

Paul,

Thank you for your very indepth response. I will take your advise and give it a try. All the amp and volt reading appear within tolerance. I will try once again to clean it and see if that makes a difference.

Welcome to the forum and again, thanks for the response.

R/Don

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  • 9 months later...

Hi,

many people have this problem with cells over 3 years old- salt reading is 300-1000 ppm less than what was being tested in pool store(getting worse by time). Reading from pool store are correct.

When salt reading drop bellow 2300 ppm is Aqua Rite will shoot down output to cell( generating LED off). Chlorine generation will stop even actual salt level in pool is 2500-3400 ppm. But cell is still OK and can generate chlorine.

Problem is caused by salinity sensor that is part of cell, so we need to clean,calibrate it or replaced. Unfortunately, no one have details how to calibrate or replace this sensor, so you have to replace entire expensive cell .

Dusan

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