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Heat +- Button Does Not Work Anymore


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Yesterday I noticed that I couldn't get the temp to go up or down by pressing the +- key. It seems that the key is faulty but I am not sure.

The spa is an above ground Leisure Bay Chesapeake series C I believe, purchased new April 2005. We barely use the spa but I run it for a few minutes at least once every 2 weeks. The circuit breaker is always kept off when the spa is not in use. I am not sure what model the electronics are but the top control panel has a buttons for pump, light, and temp +-.

Can anyone give me some advise as to how to troubleshoot and fix? Thanks.

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Yesterday I noticed that I couldn't get the temp to go up or down by pressing the +- key. It seems that the key is faulty but I am not sure.

The spa is an above ground Leisure Bay Chesapeake series C I believe, purchased new April 2005. We barely use the spa but I run it for a few minutes at least once every 2 weeks. The circuit breaker is always kept off when the spa is not in use. I am not sure what model the electronics are but the top control panel has a buttons for pump, light, and temp +-.

Can anyone give me some advise as to how to troubleshoot and fix? Thanks.

Did you get the tub into the "lock" position? Does it say anything on the topside when you try to change the temp?

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  • 1 month later...

It has been suggested to me that the problem is likely the control panel on top of the spa.

Can anyone give me a part number for this control so that I may see where I can purchase one of these control panels? I believe my spa is a Leisure Bay, Chesapeake Series C, with Balboa instruments but not sure about that.

Thank you.

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It very well could be a topside, figured I could possibly save you a buck if you checked to see if it is locked, we see this a lot. Sometimes holding a light button locks them, sometimes it is a sequence of buttons.

For the topside, we are a dealer and service center for Leisure Bay. What options does the spa have? 1 or 2 pumps? blower? ozone? If you get me the seriel # and the information off the control system we could help, or you can call leisure Bay....888-524-9475 and speak to the parts department.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thank you Hillbilly Hot Tub.

I've finally had a chance to do some basic troubleshooting. I removed the access panel to the spa's inner workings, and I found a very clean (no corrosion or etc) area inside, including the topside control panel from underneath (I removed the screws). The topside control panel has a sort of clear rubbery protectant which is undisturbed, and the circuit board as well as the multipin connector has absolutely no corrosion, and it all looks brand new.

Anyway, I sprayed some cleaner on the RJ45 plug that connects the topside cable to the main control box. My +- button on the topside control panel still does not work.

How do I determine if the topside control panel is the problem, or if something inside the main control box is the problem?

What color wire(s) on the topside control panel correlate to pushing the +- button? Perhaps I could short those manually to see if it works or not.

And the way I normally operate this hot tub is like this: When I am not using it, the circuit breaker is always off. I periodically turn on the circuit breaker to run it (usually once a week) for about a half hour. If the hot tub was used, I generally drain it and fill it with clean water.

Here are a few pictures of my system for reference:

Spa Access Panel Removed

SpaAccessPanelOpenM.jpg

Topside Control Panel - The +- button no longer works, therefore I am unable to shut the heat off.

TopSideControlPanelM.jpg

Topside Control Panel - Underside

TopsideControlPanelUndersideM.jpg

Control Center Sticker #1 - This is a Balboa Instruments model V240R / part # 52108-02

ControlCenterSticker1M.jpg

Thanks everyone!

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  • 1 month later...

I wanted to update everyone monitoring this thread.

I ended up fixing the problem myself. I installed a 240v double pole switch onto the side of the spa, and ran 12 guage wiring back to the spa control panel where I spliced in to the heater leads. I enclosed the switch in a plastic box, and used a plastic isolating-type switch throw lever cover plate. I picked 12 guage wire since my heater is rated 4000w @ 240v; that equals 16.7A which 12 guage wiring is suitable to carry)

So this setup is completely safe from shock/electrocution hazard, and further, it works very very well. It cost about 20 bucks and 2 hours to do. I am very happy with this setup. If anyone wants a picture of the finished product please reply.

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