Wire For 220v 60 Amp Hookup

[Porter]

For 6 gauge copper wire - is stranded TWHN copper OK? Or is it necessary to use a solid single-core style of wire?

[Hillbilly Hot Tub]

For 6 gauge copper wire - is stranded TWHN copper OK? Or is it necessary to use a solid single-core style of wire?

Stranded is actually better IMO because it cools quicker. Either will work.

[craighaggart]

For 6 gauge copper wire - is stranded TWHN copper OK? Or is it necessary to use a solid single-core style of wire?

Stranded THHN/W copper is not only OK, it's probably the only wire you'll be able to find in 6 AWG at most retail outlets. Solid wire is not only unnecessary, it's much more difficult to work with. Try pulling 4 hefty conductors through a conduit with a couple of 90-degree bends!

Oh, and I'll share my mantra with you: conduit is cheap. Use the largest conduit you can reasonably work with. You will not believe how much easier it is to pull wire through larger tubes and junctions. The price difference between 1" RNC and 1.5" RNC is trivial. The fittings cost more, but again they're chump change in the context of your whole spa project.

Craig

Sunnyvale, California

[Kent Ohio]

I also ran 220V 60A, I checked the zoning here in Ohio, your codes may vary, I was told:

Inside the house:

Run 6/3w/ground, the 4 wires(Red(hot) Black(hot) white(neutral) solid copper(ground) is wrapped by a rubber sheath.

Outside the house, from the SPA box to the hottub control panel:

Separate #6 stranded wires. We ran 2 red, both hot, and one green for the ground. There is no neutral from the spa box to the hottub(well, in our case anyways).

For the 3 separate #6 wires, just use electric tape, to hold the 3 together, tape every foot or so, makes it much easier to work with.

There, my 2 cents worth....

[craighaggart]

We ran 2 red, both hot, and one green for the ground. There is no neutral from the spa box to the hottub(well, in our case anyways).

That means your tub doesn't use 120V for anything (ozonator, lamp, whatever), which is what you'd need the neutral wire for. I suspect that not many tubs are like that, but for those that are I would recommend using one red wire and one black wire instead of two of the same. It will make it easier if any repairs or modifications ever need to be done. I've had to trace unmarked wiring before, and I spent a significant amount of time thinking of ways to torture the person who put it in.

Craig

Sunnyvale, California

[wireman]

The two hot colors don't matter as long as they are black, red or blue. Always use white for the neutral and green for the ground. Use stranded from the disconnect to the tub. Don't tape them together. 3/4" PVC is plenty large. If you go bigger you'll have to modify the knock out on the controller box in all likely hood.

[DanyR]

Hi all. Just want to add a few questions to this. The electrician (10 years ago) ran a conduit inside the house (65ft) from the main breaker box (50amps) And install a disconnect box (outside by the future spa location) at the end. He put 2 black stranded #8 awg and a small ground about #18awg. Now I want to buy a hot tub and thinking about the #8awg is too small. The wire says "colonial TWN or THHN  or THWN". 1st. Do I need to change this to a #6AWG? 2ND. Is my ground big enough or it has to be #6AWG? 3rd. I need to add a white neutral. Does it have to be a #6AWG as well? Thank you very much. By the way, if I upgrade to a 6AWG, I want to upgrade the main breaker to 60amps and add a 60 amp GFCI breaker in the diconnect. Does this sound good?

[north_of_boston]

1)  What does the electrical code say in your corner of the world?   Remember,  electrical codes do change.

2) You probably should ask this question of an electrician who is familiar with installing hot tubs.

3) It's ALWAYS a wise idea to engage an electrician who is familiar with this stuff,  get the proper permits, and have him/her do the job.