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Confused- New Tub- Simple Blue Chemicals


Hex92

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I have a new tub and they set us up with SimpleBlue (I thought we were going to get Pristine Blue, but whatever). We got the tub two weeks ago and we already have had to drain it and start over. The water turned green after a couple of days and they gave us some story about how the pumps have an algecide in them that is green and the only way to get rid of it was to drain and refill...

So we did that.

So we have new water in as of Saturday night and it looks fine. What I am confused about is what I am testing for with the strips. The strips test for Oxidizer, pH, alkalinity and hardness.

What is this CYA I see mentioned in the forums? Do I need to pay attention to it?

We bought a separate kit to test for chlorine since SimpleBlue does use dichlor as one of its chemicals. We were told that after satarting up the tub we should only need to add Spa Manager (which has the oxidizer) and the dichlor on a regular basis.

We have ozone on our tub too if that matters.

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I have a new tub and they set us up with SimpleBlue (I thought we were going to get Pristine Blue, but whatever). We got the tub two weeks ago and we already have had to drain it and start over. The water turned green after a couple of days and they gave us some story about how the pumps have an algecide in them that is green and the only way to get rid of it was to drain and refill...

So we did that.

So we have new water in as of Saturday night and it looks fine. What I am confused about is what I am testing for with the strips. The strips test for Oxidizer, pH, alkalinity and hardness.

What is this CYA I see mentioned in the forums? Do I need to pay attention to it?

We bought a separate kit to test for chlorine since SimpleBlue does use dichlor as one of its chemicals. We were told that after satarting up the tub we should only need to add Spa Manager (which has the oxidizer) and the dichlor on a regular basis.

We have ozone on our tub too if that matters.

I will have to say...the algecide in the pumps was a new and different story! The CYA is Cyanic acid. It is found in stabilized chlorine which di-chlor is. It builds up over a period of time and if the levels get to high it will reduce the effectivness of the chlorine and you will have to keep a higher free chlorine level and in some people it is thought that it may be the culprit that causes them to itch. If you are using dichlor only weekly and do water changes every 3 months, the levels should not go sky high on the CYA. The oxidizer is MPS or also known as non chlorine shock. It is a shock, not a sanitizer. It is very effective in breaking down waste that gets into the tub. Dichlor is a sanitizer. PH is very important to keep on tract. If to high you will get scale, cloudy water, foam, skin/eye irritation and the sanitizer won't be as effective. Low PH can cause damage to the pumps, jets, cause skin and eye irritation ect. The alk is alkalinity. It helps keep the PH buffered if it is in the correct range, in other words keeps the PH from bouncing around as much. The ozone in your tub is also an oxidizer, not a sanitizer. It will also help oxidize waste and makes it so you use a bit less chemicals.

Hope this helps a little...

I looked up Pristine blues site and green water is a sign of to much chemical. It also does not play well with several other chemicals such as clarifiers, alk. increaser, calcium ect. i would work closely with a dealer who understands this system to make sure you are doing it right.

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  • 11 years later...

I have been using the simple blue system and also had a green buildup. I put in hth spa shock and the green went away. I just drained and cleaned the tub, followed the system with fresh start and the power boost but was 1 capful short of the spa manager. What is in the spa manager and is the system compatible with the hth shock (chlorinating agent)?

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