Downeast Exeter Lf Error Code

[B0Darc]

As you can see by the subject line my Down East (MasterSpa budget brand) Exeter model spa is throwing a "LF" code which trips other codes as it continues to fail (dr and dry). Unfortunately "dr" and "dry" codes mean there's a low flow in the heater so it shuts off, not good in the winter! Looks like DownEast uses Balboa electronics as the error codes are inline with what I found online here

SPA ERROR CODES

All indications are that it is my filters. So it struck me that I am spraying off my filters with my garden hose and the cold winterized water coming out of there... so using the filter cleaning spray outside in Winter is probably like trying to wash your dishes with icey water ... meaning it wouldn't matter how much Dawn dish liquid you were squirting on that greasy plate it won't degrease with ice cold water!

My filters are getting a little old so it's likely time for me to replace, but I DID get results by cleaning/soaking my filters in hot water inside (after hosing off any chunks or hair with the frosty hose outside) with filter cleaning juice... meanwhile I am still getting the "LF" code with the filters in place. So question;

1.) Maybe demineralize my filters with something acidic? Is straight vinegar bad? (smelly?) I saw something on here about Citric Acid which is a very safe organic food acid (Citrus) which is also sold as coffeepot descaler... of course that's 2 tablespoons for $9 at the store (for your coffee pot) or you can buy a one pound bag of "sour salt" for $2.50 Anybody use Citric acid to demineralize pleated paper filters? I saw the advice for using Muriatic Acid, but I'm a little wary about having pool grade concentrated muriatic acid around the house (20:1 dilution ratio, soak in a bucket til the bubbling stops). I like doing stuff for cheap! haha I saw the advice for using bleach for sanitizing instead of Dichlor/Calchlor/bromine

2.) Good online source for filters?

3.) Any way to backflush the heating channel? Would it really help? How about that Spa-Flush stuff? Should I not be focusing on the notion that the actual path through the heater might be clogged and just focus on likely clogged intake filtration? I mean I don't want to have to drain this thing after two months (read the advice regarding spa water change frequency calculation)

Thanks in advance

Bo

[TinyBubbles]

Have you tried running the spa without the filters in to see if that makes a difference?

[B0Darc]

Have you tried running the spa without the filters in to see if that makes a difference?

I had changed out half of the water and it was pretty much crystal clear, but not heating. I ran it overnight WITHOUT filters and it came fully up to temp and NO codes. After soaking filters in commercial alkali type cleaner (mix with water) for three hours, threw same LF code (after priming and 15 minutes of running. Removed and soaked overnight last night. Put back in this AM but have not checked code situation.

[slash]

It sounds like you're doing the right things. by soaking the filter in a cartridge cleaner solution. If you are getting no error codes without the filters in it is definately the filters. I have a Master Spa and at a certain point you just need to get new filters, as it sounds like yours are gummed up pretty bad.

[realDrew]

I'm having the same problem with a 45 day old Master Spa, leading me to believe it could be the type of filter or the sensor gets triggered when foaming occurs.

The 3 in 1 filters have the centre filter as a harder, probably less porous filter. I am tempted to remove that filter completely and use only the other two standard type of filters.

This has happened to me twice now, and when I remove and clean the filters I have to fiddle with the placement of them to stop getting the codes. I added some water the last time to see if that would help. This reduced foaming for a few days, and the codes didn't appear for a while until now.

I have filters soaking now, but am contemplating doing a full water change the next semi-warm day we get.

As you can see by the subject line my Down East (MasterSpa budget brand) Exeter model spa is throwing a "LF" code which trips other codes as it continues to fail (dr and dry). Unfortunately "dr" and "dry" codes mean there's a low flow in the heater so it shuts off, not good in the winter! Looks like DownEast uses Balboa electronics as the error codes are inline with what I found online here

SPA ERROR CODES

All indications are that it is my filters. So it struck me that I am spraying off my filters with my garden hose and the cold winterized water coming out of there... so using the filter cleaning spray outside in Winter is probably like trying to wash your dishes with icey water ... meaning it wouldn't matter how much Dawn dish liquid you were squirting on that greasy plate it won't degrease with ice cold water!

My filters are getting a little old so it's likely time for me to replace, but I DID get results by cleaning/soaking my filters in hot water inside (after hosing off any chunks or hair with the frosty hose outside) with filter cleaning juice... meanwhile I am still getting the "LF" code with the filters in place. So question;

1.) Maybe demineralize my filters with something acidic? Is straight vinegar bad? (smelly?) I saw something on here about Citric Acid which is a very safe organic food acid (Citrus) which is also sold as coffeepot descaler... of course that's 2 tablespoons for $9 at the store (for your coffee pot) or you can buy a one pound bag of "sour salt" for $2.50 Anybody use Citric acid to demineralize pleated paper filters? I saw the advice for using Muriatic Acid, but I'm a little wary about having pool grade concentrated muriatic acid around the house (20:1 dilution ratio, soak in a bucket til the bubbling stops). I like doing stuff for cheap! haha I saw the advice for using bleach for sanitizing instead of Dichlor/Calchlor/bromine

2.) Good online source for filters?

3.) Any way to backflush the heating channel? Would it really help? How about that Spa-Flush stuff? Should I not be focusing on the notion that the actual path through the heater might be clogged and just focus on likely clogged intake filtration? I mean I don't want to have to drain this thing after two months (read the advice regarding spa water change frequency calculation)

Thanks in advance

Bo

[realDrew]

I spoke to Master Spa's manufacturer's rep at the Pool & Spa show in Toronto today who informed me that they have changed out the 3 in 1 filter system to a 2 in 1 system which incorporates all of the same functionality of the prior filter system. The previous filters' manufacturer had decreased the micron size of the filters without notifying anyone, causing the system to clog up quickly. I was advised to pull the middle filter out, and use only the 2 standard filters until I replace them with the new ones.

I'm having the same problem with a 45 day old Master Spa, leading me to believe it could be the type of filter or the sensor gets triggered when foaming occurs.

The 3 in 1 filters have the centre filter as a harder, probably less porous filter. I am tempted to remove that filter completely and use only the other two standard type of filters.

This has happened to me twice now, and when I remove and clean the filters I have to fiddle with the placement of them to stop getting the codes. I added some water the last time to see if that would help. This reduced foaming for a few days, and the codes didn't appear for a while until now.

I have filters soaking now, but am contemplating doing a full water change the next semi-warm day we get.

As you can see by the subject line my Down East (MasterSpa budget brand) Exeter model spa is throwing a "LF" code which trips other codes as it continues to fail (dr and dry). Unfortunately "dr" and "dry" codes mean there's a low flow in the heater so it shuts off, not good in the winter! Looks like DownEast uses Balboa electronics as the error codes are inline with what I found online here

SPA ERROR CODES

All indications are that it is my filters. So it struck me that I am spraying off my filters with my garden hose and the cold winterized water coming out of there... so using the filter cleaning spray outside in Winter is probably like trying to wash your dishes with icey water ... meaning it wouldn't matter how much Dawn dish liquid you were squirting on that greasy plate it won't degrease with ice cold water!

My filters are getting a little old so it's likely time for me to replace, but I DID get results by cleaning/soaking my filters in hot water inside (after hosing off any chunks or hair with the frosty hose outside) with filter cleaning juice... meanwhile I am still getting the "LF" code with the filters in place. So question;

1.) Maybe demineralize my filters with something acidic? Is straight vinegar bad? (smelly?) I saw something on here about Citric Acid which is a very safe organic food acid (Citrus) which is also sold as coffeepot descaler... of course that's 2 tablespoons for $9 at the store (for your coffee pot) or you can buy a one pound bag of "sour salt" for $2.50 Anybody use Citric acid to demineralize pleated paper filters? I saw the advice for using Muriatic Acid, but I'm a little wary about having pool grade concentrated muriatic acid around the house (20:1 dilution ratio, soak in a bucket til the bubbling stops). I like doing stuff for cheap! haha I saw the advice for using bleach for sanitizing instead of Dichlor/Calchlor/bromine

2.) Good online source for filters?

3.) Any way to backflush the heating channel? Would it really help? How about that Spa-Flush stuff? Should I not be focusing on the notion that the actual path through the heater might be clogged and just focus on likely clogged intake filtration? I mean I don't want to have to drain this thing after two months (read the advice regarding spa water change frequency calculation)

Thanks in advance

Bo

[boussagues]

LF means low flow. Firstly check your pump!! I was getting a LF problem and replaced the sensors, When I started the pump I still had the same problem, I then discovered that the sensors need a certain flow of x cubic metres an hour. I took out the pump and there was some crud in the impellers. I cleaned it out, put the old sensors back in and refilled it. It then worked. Spent $120 on sensors for nothing.