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Found 28 results

  1. So I just replaced the control panel on my Windsor 3 hot tub. When I flipped on the power there was electrical arching at the spot circled on the photo. It appears to be the heating element. I'm wondering what I did wrong. I did not touch any wiring in my work. I simply unplugged the control panel and put a new one in. Please help
  2. Bought a Hot Springs Classic new in 1992. Only repair was to replace the circulating pump once. That is until 5 years ago when I opened it up in the spring (after winterizing) and found a 24" long crack in the shell from the bottom up to one of the pockets for the back massagers. Got the repair kit from Watkins, tipped it up on it's side and dug out the foam in the cracked area and proceeded to epoxy/fiberglass the exterior of the crack and filled the crack from the interior with the MEK melted pellets. Drilled a small hole at the end of the crack. It has always leaked since the repair, about an inch a week. It is on a deck raised eight feet, so I always know if it is leaking. Filled it again this spring and now it was almost gushing water, about 8 inches in a day. Did some careful measurements with a caliper and it slowed down, finally was dropping at the rate of 2.5" per day. Same rate with the pump on as with it off, so it was not in the plumbing. Way too much to make it usable. So I bit the bullet and tipped it up again and dug out the foam I has replaced after the first repair. A small area of my repair has delaminated near the back massager pocket where the bottom takes some sharp angles. Guessing a tiny leak froze during the winter and pushed the fiberglass layers of the repair apart. The surprise? Carpenter ants has burrowed into the foam, making a nest and munching on small areas of the wood base that had not gotten quite enough preservative. I took a wire wheel cup on my angle grinder to clear the foam and loose fiberglass from the edges of the repair. This time I am going to fill the sharp angles with epoxy repair putty before setting another layer (or two) of fiberglass in a thick layer of epoxy. It is a pain working around the wood base slats, but this time I am making sure there is no foam left near the edges and I end up with fully soaked layers of fiberglass. And this time i am not re-foaming the repair area. Any words of wisdom before I start the repair?
  3. Hi I am seeking help repairing an old hot tub in Wylie TX and having trouble finding anyone. Pump works, but leaks(may need replacing). Older heater leaking at the output end(may need replacing). Brad
  4. My outdoor spa/hot tub started leaking two winters ago so I took it out-of-service, and had the local dealer out to look at it this Spring. They charged me $120 for a visit, spotted an obvious leak, then told me they no longer service spas. 8^( The good news is that apart from the obvious leak, and a few top-side parts that should be replaced (easy fixes), the controls, heater and pumps all seemed to work properly. Not bad for a tub that’s got to be 12-15 years old. So I gave up on it and tried to give it away this summer. No luck. Two potential takers both backed out after realizing what it takes to move one of these. Now I’ve got it blocked up, cleaned up a bit, and am determined to at least take a shot at repairing the leak. I got under the tub tonight and found the obvious problem… and I’m not happy. There is a PVC cap at the end of a manifold fitting and the cap hangs lower than any drain on the unit. Duh, I wonder why it cracked? Really poor design IMO. I was prepared to replace or patch a section of pipe, but this thing has me scratching my head. Not sure if these photos will help, but I think you can clearly see the crack looking from below in the first photo…I didn’t even have to scrape away any insulation. The problem here is that in order to try and get the cap as high as possible, the manufacturer jammed it on tight against the manifold stubs, one of which is not even used. Got any advice for repairing or replacing that cap? If I cut it off there’s no manifold left to slip a replacement cap on. So my thinking is to either: A) clean the surface of the cap and place and glue a new, larger diameter cap (if there is such a thing) over it, or drill a hole in the end of the cap and/or force the crack to open up so I can (hopefully) remove the entire cap. If I can do that, do I have any hope of cleaning up the old joint so that I might be able to install and seal a new cap? Thanks for any wisdom you can share.
  5. Just had my pool replastered and the guys did a bad job locating the spotters on the steps and bench. Pool is filling up now. Contractor says I’m Out of Luck - Can anyone offer an opinion if there’s anything other than stripping it all off and replastering all over again? Can the steps and bench be re-done to properly place the spotters? I’m thinking downside is now I have a seam, plaster color matching, like any patch job. looks like a kindergartener placed them
  6. The attached picture shows a box at the rear of the spa controller on my Jacuzzi J-335. You can see in the picture that the plastic barb fitting has broken off inside the black box (lower right). Also pictured is a similar attachment point/port at the top of the black box. Firstly, any help in identifying these parts would be appreciated. Second, I have tried a couple of methods of extraction, but can't remove the remaining, male part of the barb fitting from the lower right port. It is threaded, right? Any tips for removal? Finally, I don't think there was anything attached to the port on top. Would that make sense? I would appreciate any advice in how I might get this back together...or what I should replace to get up and running. This is a J335 spa controller dated 6/3/08. Thanks.
  7. I have a 2004 Tiger River Bengal. My Smart Jet Diverter Valve was leaking from top and I had water dripping from large white pipes under tub shell behind control panel. I replaced diverter valve and o-rings. Works great. Problem now is that water is still dripping from large white pipes under tub shell when the diverter valve is in 9 o'clock and 12 o'clock positions and pump is running. Tub does not leak unless pumps are running. The water drips down from pipes in pump compartment as well as drips out of right corner of exterior casing(tub is on concrete slab with slight pitch to right). The large white pipes coming from manifold seem very durable. Could they develop a leak? Any ideas appreciated.
  8. Hi, i have a cracked valve that I need to repair (photo). Is there a way to separate these joints to get the valve out? Thanks, George
  9. Hello, when I bought my house 6months ago, it came with a Hot Springs Highlife portable spa which seemed to have not been used in ages. However, we were able to clean it to hygienic standards on the outside, then filled it up and to our surprise, the jets are working and the heater is working also. So, very happy and very surprised. We did a tube clean treatment for 24 hours, let it drain, and filled it up again. All looks good except that there is a leak in the pipe that pumps the water away from the pump. You can see that it already has been repaired in the past and the leak is only active when the jets are on but it's still a significant leak. The leak is on the top edge of the white part in the picture. That's where the water flows out when the pump is on and the pump is on the bottom of the picture, connected to the tube I'm wondering how to go about repairing this, or if it's actually possible. The leaking part is accessible, but the pipe goes to a tee and it's pretty much hidden away behind the panel. I attached some pictures. I hope someone can advise me on how to repair this leak. Thank you!
  10. Our concrete inground pool was emptied and left dry for a little too long. It then rose up on one side by about 2-5°. And a small crack across the middle from side to side. While running I thought I could fill the crack and relevel the sides and normalise the tilt. Or does it need to be condemned and rebuilt? Will upload pictures tomorrow.
  11. Just wanted to share my experience with the community repairing motomassage jets on my Hot Springs Grandee 92-95 by Watkins, which came in "as is" condition with the house we bought. Besides of few other problems (that I fixed earlier), both motomassage jets had their "spine cords" broken, with some pieces pushed away and floating on the surface. All related tubes were in more or less good shape. A recommended jet replacement of "73307 Hot Spring Spas Moto Massage Jet Assembly" would cost me around $100 each. Spending $200 to replace these plastic pieces didn't seem to be fair, so I was looking for a cheaper option, and finally found "Moto Jet DX HG 14-C 77242" for $40 on ebay, which looked exactly as 73307, but without an air tube and o-ring. I decided to give it a try and ordered one - the risk was worse it, they turned out to be the same. I re-used my old air tube with o-ring, and my first jet started working immediately. Shortly I ordered another one and now I have both jets fully repaired for $80, rather than $200. P.S. I don't know the exact year when this Grandee was manufactured, because the serial of "G-05354" on it doesn't match the pattern they used. If someone has a knowledge - please, share. Vlad.
  12. The three pumps of our hot tub were flooded with salt water during Hurricane Matthew (2016). The pumps were flooded but not the mother board. We never use the jets and only use our spa as a hot tub to soak in. What are your thoughts on salvaging this? I was thinking of disconnecting the electric on the 2 jet pumps and buying/replacing the smaller circulating pump. Only running on the circulating pump. Would this work? Looking forward to your help and suggestions.
  13. Hello Everyone. Reaching out here, in the hope of some of your wisdom and help pls. Guess what i did ? Yup. chlorine capsule escaped to the bottom of the above ground (bestway) pool. i didn't see it until the following morning. By then, the chlorine had burnt through (dissolved) top layer of the pvc liner. through to the mesh layer. i did panic, but actually it didn't see to be leaking much water since water pressure seemed to seal the other pvc layer, to the floor (ground). the affected area is about the size of my hand. i tried putting on those pvc repair patches. but they float off within an hour. water pressure when the pool is full seems to prevent much water leaking. but i really want to patch / cover up the area where the pvc top layer has dissolved. or to buy a large (1 foot square patch) and attach that. does anyone have any tips or suggestions ? ideally if i could just get a strong glue / adhesive to cover the abraissed area (when the pool is empty) then maybe ? i thought of even a strong silicon that you put around the bathrooms seals? but kids jump in the pool and so there feet i would assume would wear away the silicon. is there like a paint glue i cant jut put over the affected area, to give it a rubber seal ? (i'm intending on lifting up the pool, and putting another layer of plastic sheeting underneath so that water pressure again forces the pool liner into direct contact with a plastic flooring, prior to the ground. very much appreciate any thoughts. (i'm in south italy, and so dint have the abundance of DIY stores i'm sure you luck people have elsewhere) jez
  14. Hi all, first post here so please forgive me if I do something wrong... I have a 12 year old Southwest Spa with HydroQuip guts (product HQ6000 - order code CS6220-U). A few weeks ago I drained the tub and cleaned it like I do regularly, and after filling it took twice as long to heat back up. Normally it takes roughly 4 hours to heat and this time it took 8. On top of that it has been having a hard time keeping the temperature at 100. Where before the pumps/heater only came on as needed, now they are running all the time. Last night I noticed that the temp has begun to fall as it was at 96 and holding. the top side controls say that the heater is on (or calling for it), but I don't see the heater light on the controller lit. All other functions and flow seem normal, and there are not any error codes or warning lights. I will put an ohm meter / multimeter to it this weekend, but my initial thoughts are that the heater may need replacing. Thoughts? Suggestions? Any help is greatly appreciated. thanks, Kent
  15. I own a marque spirit 2 person hot tub approximately nine years old. I ended up with the house and the hot tub in a divorce but not before my Ex. let the hot tub sit covered with about 6" of water. The inside of the tub is now filled with slugs and black mold I mean covered. Should I even try and save this tub? I have missed my hot tub and can not afford a new one. Thanks for any help.
  16. My 10-year-old inground gunite pool needs some tile repair and I'm hoping someone can give me advice. There is one section of about 8 small tiles that all popped off and I saved them all, so those need to be repaired/re-attached. No more have come off in probably 3 years and I don't know why they came off in the first place. Can I do that myself or hire a professional? The rest of the tiles around the perimeter seem to get mold or algae in them. I started using a solar blanket and maybe that is causing the mold issue, I'm not sure. I scrub the grout with a wire brush to loosen/clean the grout and there is enough chlorine in the pool but it seems to come back fast, especially near the skimmer basket. I noticed the grout between the tiles is not flush with the tiles - is re-grouting tiles at the pool perimeter something that is normal upkeep? Or am I doing something wrong? Is there a better way to clean the grout other than wire brush? Should I be using a chemical also? Or will re-grouting help the issue of the algae/mold forming between the tiles?
  17. i have a HAYWARD sp1515-z-1-esc it is 1.5 HP . its been a daunting task to attempt to repair this pump. it wasnt turning at all. so i decided to take it apart . i was able to do that but couldnt without first breaking the four thru bolts. well i did remove the armature it was really corroded .. so after cleaning everything up,and putting it all back together. I now have a free turning armature. unfortunately i have to plug in the pump and give it a quick turn with a srewdriver for it to start turning. But here is the problem it only turns for about 5 to 7 seconds before it starts smoking. i am not sure if its the plate that has the switch thats giving me the problem. if it is i cant find anywhere that has any parts for this OLD pump.
  18. Hi recently bought a used garden leisure spa don't know the year but the model I believe is a Camillia standard. it seats 6 and has 2 pumps. when I power on the spa normal or low pressure will come through the waterfall and the jets on the seats next to the waterfall. this is pump #1 when I press pump #1 a second time more pressure comes out of the same location mentioned above not a problem. the issue is that nothing is coming out of half the spa the jets are on . if I press pump # 2 button the #2 pump blows water out of the diverter about 2 feet high and the jets that where off are now on and the water shoots out of the spa. is it possible that pump #2 has is a super pump and I just need to replace the diverter valve so it doesn't come off when pump #2 is turned on? or can I just disconnect the second pump and only run pump #1 with medium pressure?
  19. We are staying at a friends house. My daughter innocently dumped in a bottle of bubbles, you know the kind that kids blow bubbles with? I don't know much about hot tubs but I do know that the bubble solution should not have been put into it. How can I clean and if necessary repair the hot tub before I leave? I should say that my friends are not around. They are allowing us to stay at their place during their vacation. While they will be understanding, I would rather have the problem fixed before they return. Please help!
  20. I have a 16' H2X swimspa that I bought used and had for 6 months and the propusion motor quit working. It had been working but the propusion was getting weaker. I drained it for new water and found that the blades on the propeller were broken off. How long had they been missing? I don't know. Got the new 3 blade propeller, filled the tub, and fired up the swim spa. TSUNAMI!! After 2 days to heat the water I went to use it and it didn't work. My electrician friend and I checked all the connections we could find. I am getting 36v to the motor so I think the bearings and or motor may be shot. Has anybody rebuilt one of these 36 volt motors? The new one is $900! Any help would be great. Thanks, Clyde
  21. Good morning, I purchased a home a few weeks ago and have had enough time to start to get settled in. The home came with a hot tube and I've never owned one before. The person who owned the home didn't leave with me with any instructions, all he said was that it worked. I'm looking for some help on what to do to test everything on the hot tub to verify it works and get me going for the winter months. Check for leaks? Verify Heating element works? Verify Pumps work? Verify sprayers work? I'm just looking at how to do all this stuff and anything else i might need to do to verify I have a good, working order hot tub. I suppose a manual might help give me information on all of this, but any help from anyone who's done all this before, would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Pictures Below of what I have. I think the last picture is the nameplate on the tub, and it says spring Harbor acrylic spas.
  22. I inherited this Savannah Tremblant and am getting it ready to run. The tub doesn't leak at all but it is definitely in need of some love. The previous owner got it cheap because the shell had been damaged. It was patched by the dealer but the dealer didn't bother to match the colour. (Or smooth the finish. Or anything, really.) The patch itself has held up over time but the paint or epoxy or whatever it was that they applied to cover the patch has not. It has separated from the patch and has flaked off, revealing significant discolouration. Here, I hope you're sitting down, because this is what it looks like: The patch area is about 15"x8". I'm not extremely concerned that the acrylic be perfect but I want something that will bond to the patch and be blue or mineral mottled similarly. What should I use? Paint? Multitech granite patch? Should I grind off the old topcoat? Any advice would e greatly appreciated. Well, almost any. Don't tell me to toss it. She's got life in her yet.
  23. I have an early 90's conway spa by emerald spas. I inherited it and am in the process of rebuilding the whole thing by way of necessity. I am trying to determine the appropriate brand and model of jet internals to replace on it, but the manual I found on line does not seem to match what are currently sold under the same name today. The emerald spa website says they are magna microjets, however they appear to look more like the magna vsr jets. Also, the hydro air website states they should have a catch on them to release but I can not determine how to pry them off. Any insight?
  24. I purchased their heat pump back in the fall of 2011. I live up in NY and 2012 was the first season of use. No problems at all. Two weeks ago my heater lost all of its Freon. Their repair tech came out to my house and a hole was created by two copper pipes rubbing against each other due to the vibration of the unit. It cost me $825 later to fix and I have made repeated calls to the manufacturer for some goodwill assistance. Although it is out of the 1 year full parts and labor warranty, I believe that this problem was caused in year one. I have sent repeated emails and made a call to the President and still no response. This company brags about quality and customer service and I get no satisfaction. What recourse do I have?
  25. Let me start off by saying I'm new to pools. We have purchased a home with a hybrid pool that is in need of some repair. 18' x 36' pool. The top 4 feet of walls are fiberglass panels, and the floor and walls beneath 4 feet are plaster covered concrete. There is a 6" ledge all the way around that the walls sit on. Some of the fiberglass walls have pulled away at the top in spots and water slowy leaks out, I'm assuming through the wall panel joints. As far as I know, the concrete is in good condition. I'm looking for a cost effective way of repairing or replacing the fiberglass wall sections. Would it be possible to remove the wall panels and spray gunite as a replacement, while leaving the existing concrete? Any ideas are welcome. So far, the one guy I've had look at it told me he could repair the walls and would need to add fiberglass over the concrete that would run up a few inches on the walls to create a watertight seal. Then the whole pool would be coated. His estimate runs about $12K. Just wondering if that sounds high or are we really in for an expensive repair?
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