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Found 5 results

  1. So we got our very first hot tub- a Hot Spot/Hot Springs Stride model. We have well water, so the common problem we have is metal in the water -even though I use a prefilter on the hose to refill- which of course turns yellowish/greenish when you use the MPS oxidizer to shock it... No big deal- I had a system worked out where whenever I top up the water, I put a new filter in the tub, add the well water, add the MPS, it turns yellow, but then with the filters running, it’s clear again by morning, I take the yucky filter out- clean it and replace it with a new filter. I have two filters I rotate out- one for the day after the refill and then the other right up until I refill. This has worked well, up until now... My child had a sleepover with 3 friends and these boys splashed quite a bit (!!) of water out, so the refill was much more water than the usual top up... as expected the water turned yellow/green after I put the oxidizer in; I did the same process I usually do, but the next day water looked unchanged! What shocked me was the filter didn’t look that dirty either- not like it usually does. I figured since it was so much water added, maybe it needed some help- added a half a bottle of Metal Gon and ran the filter 6hrs, then 6hrs overnight. Nothing really happened except I began to see lots of yellow/orange around the tub. Added the other half of the bottle and ran filters 6hrs in the morning and 6hrs overnight again. Checked the filter- it had some brownish runoff when I cleaned it, but not much and definitely not like the normal brown “muck.” It is now 3 days later, with running the filter on the 6hr/6hr setting, and not seeing any real progress. Water is clear, but the yellow/green color. Other metrics are in balance (alkalinity, pH, calcium and chlorine all check out) My question is, is it possible for the jets to be working (high and low settings both work- no gurgling or surging), but the filter to somehow have no suction? With how yucky the water looks but how relatively clean the filter looks, it’s almost like the water is just circulating around the tub, but not thru the filter. I have made sure the filter basket area is clear of debris and I can feel water coming out of the 2 small jets inside the filter housing area. ...or for some reason is the metal just not clumping together with the Metal Gon and filtering out this time? Not sure what else to try from here- don’t want to drain and refill since with the same water source I’d just be right back at this issue I fear.
  2. We have had a small (~800L) spa for around a month. Ive begun using the dichlor-then-bleach method today after half-draining the spa to reduce the CYA to close to recommended levels. Questions: 1) How often? The providers said drain every 3 months, but apparently that's too long for a small spa. The Taylor site recommends the formula: Size in Litres / (10 x # of bathers daily) which comes to just 40 days for us. I think we should be able to go longer than that, because we wash with soap first and we are pretty small people. What guidelines do other follow? I'm thinking 2 months. Is there a more scientific way to say when to drain (provided of course the water looks fine and sanitised correctly each day)? Perhaps a total dissolved solids measurement? 2) Draining onto garden? Im using the recommended 50 ppm borates, and I understand that a little is good for plants, but that is going to be a lot of borates over time in the soil. What do others do with the drained water?
  3. I would like to run my startup procedure and maintenance schedule by you folks because A. I'm a new owner, B. I'm not a chemist, C. I'm good at following direction, and D. I received multiple products with my tub. I own a 2019 Hot Springs Relay, it holds 345 gallons, keep it at about 103F, and use it 1-2x per week, sometimes an extra couple time on weekends with more people. I just had a problem with getting my FC up for more than 8 hours and simply bit the bullet and drained it. Frog, the inline folks, told me that my spa likely had too much chlorine in it and it was ready to be drained, so I did. Below are my steps for startup and maintenance, chemical wise. Please let me know if it looks good, you see something wrong, or have other suggestions. 1. Refill water to 1" below seat pads. 2. Re-install filter 3. Purge pumps. 4. Let warm up to 90 Degrees 5. Adjust PH and Alk as necessary. I use PH + and PH- by Pro Team Spa to set these values. If Alk is low, I also have Alk + by Pro Team. 6. Check hardness(I use an RV drinking filter to fill the spa, so my hardness is usually on point the last 2 fills). 7. Add Pro Team Spa Gentle Spa per directions 8. Add Pro Team Spa Metal Magic per directions 9. Super Chlorinate with 1.38 TBSP of Dichlor by Pro Team Spa 10. Once my FC has dropped back down between 1 and 3, I'll insert my Frog Mineral and Chlorine cartridges. If that looks good, onto maintenance. Usually every time before I jump in, I shock with Pro Team Spa oxidizing shock, let it circulate for 15 mins or so, sit in the tub for an hour or so, then close it up. And that's about it. My Frog system typically keeps the chlorine levels in check, and I check the PH and Alk once a week. Should I be doing something else? More, Less, A-OK? As I said, I'm not chemist, but want to see if I'm doing too much, not enough, or just right. I get somewhat confused when I'm mixing different brands, or when my chlorine levels get out of whack. Or when I'm supposed to add in shock(Pro Team Oxidizing shock) vs. more dichlor if at all. I also have a few others that came with my kit such as foam fighter, blue clarifier, etc. Thanks in advance!
  4. I have a 6 month old Artesian Nevis spa which appears to have ozone and UV sanitizers installed since the lights for those are illuminated on the panel and there are little bubbles coming out from the footwell like the service tech at the dealer said there would be. I also have a Microsilk system which produces the tiny oxygen bubbles. When I got it, we filled according to instructions using a dichlor system. No issues and kept the chlorine pretty minimal, adding more after each use, since we always showered first and went in au natural. I had to go out of town for 3 months, so turned the heat down to 50 (although ambient temp was high enough to probably keep it at 65 at least) and switched to bromine floater with the nature 2 stick, which seemed to keep things nice the whole time. Drained and cleaned it, soaked the filters (which still looked brand new) in vinegar and water overnight, refilled and decided to try the Spa Frog system. I used the start up packet which came with the spa frog kit (PH and Alk and hardness all good) and dialed the bromine to where it was suggested. The next day, no bromine reading, so I figured I would stick the floater with bromine tabs in the tub to help it out since I had read about others needing to do this. Left it for a couple of hours with the floater open about an inch and took a soak. I don't remember testing the water before I got in, so i'm guessing I didn't! After soaking for 20 minutes (my max time) I did my usual routine of emptying my bladder and showering. Two things happened. My eyes burned like crazy in the shower once water hit them. I thought maybe I had gotten shampoo in them, but this was really painful and took ages to wash out with water and soothing eye drops. A few minutes later, my whole urinary tract was irritated and painful, radiating to my lower back. Saw the doctor since I was worried about a possible UTI, but nope. Just irritation and inflammation. So I am wondering what it is that triggered this. I don't seem to have a bacteria problem since the bromine levels seem to stay up well over two days without the floater in the tub and no use. I had used a bromine floater system in my last hot tub with no problems. Could it have been the start up packet chemicals that came with the Spa Frog? I didn't add any MPS until after I had gotten in that first time, so that wasn't it. Do people have a reaction to the silver in the frog system sometimes? I wear silver jewelry with no problems. Or was it likely that the bromine level was just too high after two hours of the floater plus the frog? I did leave the floaters in the tub with me for about 10 minutes, since they stayed in their own corner, but I know i should have probably taken them out. I was thinking about flushing, draining and refilling the tub and switching back to dichlor, but thought I would get some feedback before going through all that in case it's just chemicals that needed to burn off a bit. Thoughts?? Thanks! I am dying to get back in the spa but afraid to until I have some answers and a decision.
  5. Hi! I have a problem I hope someone can help me with. I have a 400 gallon Four Winds hot tub. On Sunday I noticed the water was rather milky. On Sunday it was a white opaque color. I tried various methods to clear the water including non chlorine shock, chlorine, enhancer, and clairifier. The chemicals were all fine except for the chlorine (which fluctuates as it does in a hot tub). After nothing helped, I did a plumbing purge overnight then cleaned and refilled the tub. Today, two days later, I open the cover to get in and guess what?? Same milky water. Did a chemical check and all was fine except, again, low chlorine. I am at a loss. Help!!
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