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Found 12 results

  1. My wife and I bought a foreclosure 6 yrs ago that came with a very neglected Sylvan free form inground pool. The plan for this year was to make a serious effort to rehab it for use. I've managed to make sense out of most of the plumbing and have replaced the filter. The pool has been completely drained, cleaned, prepped, and soon to be painted. I am in the process of trying to locate replacement parts for the skimmers and drains which has proven to be no easy task. I'm going to attemp to try and explain the plumbing as I see it to the best of my ability, in the hopes that someone may be familiar with my setup. I can post pictures later as I'm sure a visual would be much more helpful. The pool appears to have a drain in the shallow end that ties to a drain in the deep end of the pool. The two drains each appear to have plumbing that ties them to the skimmers. I had seen elsewhere that some older sylvan pools had what was called a diverter that would switch the draw between the drain and the skimmers themselves but there were no pictures of this type of skimmer, only illustrations and I'm not able to tell if that is the skimmer type I have. I had tried some tests with air and a shop vac and discovered that if I plugged the hole in the bottom of the skimmer, the air did escape through the hole in the side of the drain so I assume they are joined somehow. I have three pipes at the pump with valves. One valve seems to control both returns to the pool and the other two seem to control the drain/ skimmer combos. There are also two other plugged holes in the deep end on either side of the drain. I was only able to remove one and it seems as though it allows water to drain but slowly. I assume its leaching out underground somewhere. I can provide photos later as I stated, if this can aid somone in helping me to understand what I have. I have high hopes of filling the pool next week and getting some use at the tail end of the season.
  2. Hi All! Is any air supposed to come out of one of the, I call them circulation jets, that are on the side underneath the lounger during circulation and heating (no air,) and when the jets are on with no air? We purchased a used 2013 Calspa ( I think it's an Envoy) from a dealer seven months ago. After a couple of months we noticed that one of the diverters wasn't working well to divert to the cool-off seat side. (It took a couple of months to notice because I did three cleanings/water changes with ahhsome before we started getting in it.) A tech from the store came out and replaced the diverter and redid some plumbing that was not correct. Everything seems to be working well now, but I don't recall air coming out of that jet (when no air is on) before the repair. Not 100% sure, though. Thanks for any help. Picture is during circulation cycle.
  3. I have a 2009 Artesian island Grand Bahama that needs a new pump. Problem is, I can't get the slice valves to close all the way no matter how hard I press. The valve goes down, but stops like 1/4" or so from the end..... any idea why both of them would do this? I think it's a 2" waterway valve.
  4. I am a newbie to this, but we moved into a house this past year with a hot tub. Before winter, I thought I closed down the pool properly and put in RV antifreeze to be sure nothing got frozen. Today as I went to open the spa back up, I went to flush the jets and this disgusting yellow “confetti” started to come out of the jets in a large amount. Any idea what this is, and how to prevent it in the future? Thanks for any help!
  5. I am having an issue and I'm hoping some water chemistry experts can chime in..., that at first I thought might have been white mold (even though it was a new spa), but tested and wasn't... resigned to it being hard water calcium flakes because I have been having white flakes floating all over the water that persists after water changes and a flush. But, after a recent water change I discovered that it isn't hard water, but in fact sealant used around the jets housing, lights, filter compartment, etc. that is crumbling. My spa also trips the breaker daily and i think this sealant, which is all in the plumbing, is causing the trips. I made a video so you can see what I'm talking about... The dealer is claiming chemical abuse of bromine and will not honor the warranty. My water chemistry is well maintained and always within range... my sanitizer is never too high and I've never done a super chlorination, yet they recommend one for this issue. Dealers I have spoken with have never seen the sealant come off like this and completely clog the plumbing as mine has. I'm wondering if someone can tell me if this is possible and how much bromine would really have to be used to cause something like this as they are saying it's a bromine issue. Even after shock, my levels only go up to around 10 at the highest then come back down to 3-4. I don't know what sealant they are using that a sanitizer at that level can destroy. Plus, they are also asking me to have the sealant (they are calling "white powder") tested and give them a chemical analysis of it. Crazy! Here's the video:
  6. Hello, when I bought my house 6months ago, it came with a Hot Springs Highlife portable spa which seemed to have not been used in ages. However, we were able to clean it to hygienic standards on the outside, then filled it up and to our surprise, the jets are working and the heater is working also. So, very happy and very surprised. We did a tube clean treatment for 24 hours, let it drain, and filled it up again. All looks good except that there is a leak in the pipe that pumps the water away from the pump. You can see that it already has been repaired in the past and the leak is only active when the jets are on but it's still a significant leak. The leak is on the top edge of the white part in the picture. That's where the water flows out when the pump is on and the pump is on the bottom of the picture, connected to the tube I'm wondering how to go about repairing this, or if it's actually possible. The leaking part is accessible, but the pipe goes to a tee and it's pretty much hidden away behind the panel. I attached some pictures. I hope someone can advise me on how to repair this leak. Thank you!
  7. Hi, I have an in-ground pool with a pool system that seems not right to me. Could you please take a look at the 2 attached schematics, the 1st is the actual installation and the 2nd is an idea of how I could fix. Any suggestions on what to do, and how to improve this piping would be great. Also, do you think I should install a check valve, and where should I install it. 1 - Actual installation schema: https://flic.kr/p/GeST5j 2 - Installation idea: https://flic.kr/p/GkK5mm Sorry for the links to Flickr, I could not figure how to attach jpg to this post. Thanks Eric
  8. Notes: In-ground vinyl pool liner with alum. coping, built around 1976. Location: CT Dug up return line to repair a leak in the pipe. While uncovered, found that the the steel pool wall below the return fitting is wet and leaving a v. small puddle in the hole. Tried snugging up the cyclo-nut on the backside of the wall, but that didn't help (already fully tight). Also replaced the faceplate and gasket with new screws - didn't help either. Planning to remove and replace the entire fitting. It's not a big leak, but while the hole is dug out, might as well do it now. Looks like I have to pull the fitting out from the liner-side of the wall. Which I assume means: draining the water below fitting, unclipping liner in the area that needs repair (assume I only unclip the minimum length needed to get my hands behind the liner and pull the fitting?), unscrewing the nut behind the wall, loosening the 4 faceplate screws and removing the faceplate. Assume the fitting would not pull out from behind liner? Installation is the reverse. **What I need are some tips to save time and hassle. I can handle/repair most anything mechanical, but have never messed with liner removal/reinstall. - how do I remove the liner in the "repair area"? Assume I need to pull "up" to unlock it from the bead lock in the aluminum coping? How do I pull the liner up and out easily without tearing the liner, or starting way down at the corner where it already has popped out of the track? - I have read articles about people using buckets or stryofoam coolers with a hole cut out at the top and a rubber seal at the end to prevent having to drain the pool below the fittings, but assume this makes it difficult to impossible to get behind a liner. I would see this trick working on a non-liner pool wall. The only thing I could see working would be a LARGE 4-sided box, large enough to allow behind-liner access. . . . . but I don't think I'm going to build something that I'll hopefully only have to use once. I hate draining water this low to prevent liner shrinkage, etc. It's late in the season, and not a lot of sun. . .so should be OK. Any other solutions to not having to drain the pool? - When I re-install the new SP-1408 fitting, should I put some silicone sealer around the flange that goes against the pool wall? If so, what's the best sealer you guys have found? Or, should I hand-cut a round rubber gasket for underneath the flange? I don't want to have the same problems again. What's the best way to "seal" the fitting against the wall? - I haven't purchased the SP-1408 fitting yet, but from the install instructions on the Hayward site, it looks like the faceplate gasket actually goes BEHIND the liner - between the liner and the SP-1408 fitting. Is this the correct position? Should I perhaps put a faceplate gasket both behind AND in front of the liner? Where is it supposed to go to best prevent water intrusion? - Is there a more suitable replacement return fitting other than the SP-1408 (even if from a mfg. other than Hayward - Pentair, etc)? I looked at the SP1423, which is available with 2 separate flange gasket OR a "sandwich" gasket for the wall. However, the flange diameter is smaller than the SP1408, and this wouldn't be preferable, if there are any issues with the condition of the wall underneath the fitting. - Once installed, what's the best way to stretch the liner and clip back in place? Assume I will need a hair dryer to heat the liner, stretch and tuck bead back in the track? Any tips/tricks for getting the liner back in place without damaging liner or making it "thinner" from stretching? - Hopefully my screw holes in the liner will all line up and I can screw the faceplate back on without issues. I know the fitting OD is keyed, so this 'shouldn't' be an issue. - If anyone can't walk me through the complete procedure, I would appreciate tips for any of the individual steps (removing/unlocking liner in repair area, etc). I need to get this fixed before buttoning up pool for winter, and before liner gets too cold/'unstretchy' to R&R without damage - already in the 40's at night here in CT. - Any other tips/tricks that you pros could advise me on for this job? Want to do it RIGHT and want to do it ONCE. Can send pictures, if that would help anyone. Thanks in advance.
  9. Hi, I'm new to the forum - nice to meet you guys. I've recently purchased a home (in November) and I've been slowly getting the pool into order. When i moved in it was a swamp - i've since gotten it pretty much pristine. The previous owners had the bottom of the pool repainted at one point and it really looks great when it's in top shape. That said, right now the skimmer line is clogged (tons of trees, so i'm assuming it's leaves) and I'm likely going to need someone with a co2 gun come out and clear it - so it's a bit murky right now. But that's not why I'm here. I'm here to show you guys some of the plumbing and ask some questions about it, so here we go! First, here's a picture of when it's look good: Ok, so here's my skimmer: and here's some weird hole, water doesn't come out of it - it might be threaded, i was told it might be for a vaccum which would be great because im tired of running the kreepy krauly and manual vaccum from the skimmer: here's the plumbing: Some of the equipment: New wisperflow pump for the pool and spa circulation Old (i forget the brand name) black spa jet pump (under the bubbler) Two Chardonnay valves A very old filter An equally old heater A bubbler Some X10 stuff (X10 sucks) not shown Close of of the plumbing: From left to right: from the spa to the pump from the skimmer to the pool from the heater to the spa from the bubbler Here's from another angle, AND some weird capped off pipes (could this be for that vaccum hole?): So here are my questions: How might i go about determining what those capped off things are in the last picture. How might i determine what the mysterious hole is How can i tell if the bubbler is working - i guess i do so air in the spa, but the water\air only comes out about a foot, it's not very strong - do i need a better pump for that perhaps? How do you service a bubbler? What can you guys recomend in lieu of X10, preferably something that doesnt' require me to go over to the equipment and manually change valves. Should i bother re-doing all of the PVC here - it looks terrible and it's obvious that a lot of changes have been made over the years. I'd like to add the 'screw on' (for lack of a better word) connectors at various places to keep things nice when changing out components. Thanks!
  10. Help! The pool and hot tub floor drains do not drain any water. Bought a home with a pool and hot tub not in service. The Hot tub water level is above the level of the pool. The hot tub has a spillway into the pool. There are 3 pumps laying in a pile of misc valves and cut off lines, etc. There is also a sand filter and a propane pool heater. I pumped out all of the bad water and have now identified 7 out of 8 of the lines. My biggest question is why wouldn't the pool drain by gravity with all of the lines cut off? I can blow air into the backwash line or drain line and air bubble up through it into the pool bottom, same thing with the hot tub, but zero water will drain out. I figured there is a check valve in the hot tub floor drain to keep the water from draining into the pool if the pool and hot tub utilized the same drain line. The previous owner said that the the 3 pumps were for 1. Pool Circulation, 2. bubbles for the hot tube, 3. small fountain features which spill into the pool. There are two holes in the main drain in the floor of the pool. One is closed with a threaded plug. The other is open. There is one skimmer, also with two holes and one plugged with a threaded plug. I tried taking out the plugs and that didn;t allow the water to drain either. But I can blow air or water back up into both into the pool or hot tub but not out?? What is in the bottom are drains, right? You wouldn't cirulate water into the pool from below?
  11. Due to back issues my physical therapist recommend i get hot tub. Budget issues prevented me from getting new tub , I found a tub in classifads that had One 120v 1hp pump motor,5.5kw heater ,spa light 7 small jets on lounge , 1 small jet down by drain and 6 rotating eyeball type jets that look to be in a 2 1/2 inch hole . a 120v feed .( Im a electrician with control exsp) I was very disappointed on performance! So i started looking into ways to improve it. First thing i found was that it could be chaged to run on 240v . So i ran new 240v 50amp gfci line and changed setting in panel and now it maintains 104deg but im still not happy with the power of jets. The motor is still running on 120v and is 1hp (2 speed),not sure of gpm. My first idea was to change motor to 240v 1.5 or 2hp . I know the circut board and wiring is set up to do 120v or 240v motor . Secondly i thought changeing the jets from a single eyeball type to a mutiable port massage type jet would also help. Im having a hard time finding jets that will replace eyeball without chaging complete jet assemply. So ive been hunting parts from old tubs Money being a issue Ive been looking in classifads and I have had some luck in locating parts from people upgradeing there tubs and looking for help getting rid of old equipment. So now i have 1 topside control panels ( 1 ,8 button with 8wire conection 2 motors , single speed 230v 3450rpm 5.7 amps which I estamate to be about 1.5hp 1 120v blower motor with fittings and tubing but no jets Assorted shut off valves and pvc and tubing 1 main control panel that was used to control 2 motors ,spa light ,heater,ozone genrator, inputs for temp,hi limit freeze,pressure switch , 20amp or 50amp options , 5 hr or 2 hr filter option,and its missing the original top side control buttons however i do know it had a 6 wire control panel. Then theres the orig control panel that is running the tub now. All i have to guide me is pictures of the newly required parts installed on old tubs before i removed them. wireing diagrams that are on control panel covers. Where can i find some tech manuals ,wires schamatic for control boards , Also would like to find some plumbing diagrams to see the best way to seperate my exsisting plumbing to have the tub use 2 motors and blower. I know this might sound crazy to some but im in need of a more powerful tub and also in need of a project , Ive built complcated electrical control system in the past and i have over 25yrs exsp in the electrical industry. Any advice and links to tech support schamatics would be greatly appreciated
  12. I have a 7 person hot tub and I believe it's leaking at the part below so I want to replace it - but I don't know the name of the part to be able to find it. Can someone identify it please ! Thanks in advance for any help you can provide !
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