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Found 9 results

  1. We have a high pH level and have attempted to adjust the sanitizer output. The output level is stuck at 60% I have attempted to adjust the output by pushing the less button. It will go to 40% but will not go any lower. And then it returns to 60%I have also attempted to make adjustments to the Easytouch control system panel. I followed the instruction booklet and disabled the Intellichlor unit on the panel. However, no change was made, on the slide panel. If I turn off power to the Intellichlor unit at the pentair power box it will also shut off the pool pump. What is your advice?
  2. I have an Easy Touch 4 with a Intellipro VS pump, two light circuits, blower, and a Pentair chlorinator. Pentair controls are not real common in this area due to market share more down south but this is what was at the house I bought and always believe if is not broke, don't mess with it. Always worked well for me.Recently an Armadillo chewed through my wires going to my intake actuator causing it not to switch when I turn on the spa. I discovered the shorted wires. I turned off all power in the main panel and repaired the shorted wires. Turned power back on put in SERVICE mode and checked the actuators by hitting the valve button. They worked. Put control back to AUTO and pump would not come on. Removed the high voltage cover and check current coming out of all breakers. They were good. None of the three little circuit breakers at the top right of the control panel were tripped. I checked the pump relay high voltage and had no current coming out of the load connections. Had current on the line connections. Checked the low voltage on the relay and discovered that current was going through the relay but the board was not energizing the relay. I swapped the connector on the back of the board from the blower which is on Aux 3 and energized the blower button and the current flowed. That circuit does not have the capability to schedule on a 4. Got out the manual and found that the Intellipro VS was wired through the relay and not direct current to the pump as manual said. I wired the pump to direct current hit the pump button and the pump works, Spa side control works and so does in inside panel, but neither would turn on pump before I rewired the motor. Checked to make sure pump was addressed as "1". However even though pump works the relay still does not energize for the chlorinator. Second problem was Aux 1 which is the pool light was on. I could cut it manually off but it would come back on when it wanted to. Totally went back through the programming and found no errors.However it appears after sitting a couple of days the light circuit AUX 1 has stayed off, which is no major problem. Could wire it with the spa light on Aux 2. After checking the program and relay still did not energize I tried a new relay for the fun of it. Same thing no work. I hit the reset button on the panel, no change, turned power off to control for a day, still does not work. Called Tech Support and we went back through programs and checked voltages and the Tech Guy, who seemed more knowledgeable than most felt that the motherboard had severe issues but could not tell me why one of the circuit breakers did not trip due to the short. We even erased the EEPROM to see what that did. Okay my question:If I was to set the IntelliPro address to 2 and program pump 2 in the settings menu do you think that the relay would energize by doing that or do you have an better idea. I have been afraid to manually ground the other side of the low voltage relay because I did not want to damage the motherboard. Any help or advice would be deeply appreciated. I
  3. Last night the water temperature sensor broke on my Pentair intelliTouch equipment. The spa temperature was really about 60 degrees but the temp would jump to 109, 77, 104, 90... I had a group of people over and really needed to get the spa to heat. The problem was that every time the temp sensor sent a value > 104 the heater would shut off. I ordered a new temp sensor on Amazon for $25, but wanted to get the spa to heat just one more time. After watching the youTube video on how to replace the temp sensor, it occurred to me that if just swapped the air temp and water temp inputs then the air temp (a constant 65 degrees) would always report a low value and the heater would stay on. So I opened up the control panel, removed the two screws holding the top section in place, folded down the top panel, and used a small screwdriver to loosen the connectors on the right side, holding both the water an air temp sensor wires. After swapping the two sensor inputs I closed up the panel and the heater worked. Of course I then needed to reduce the max temp setting on the heater to 102 since otherwise it would have heated to 104. After figuring this out I also found other blog posts suggesting the same quick fix, but none had originally come up on my search and none had enough details to help my feeble brain figure this out quickly, so I figured I would re-post a detailed description and more tags...
  4. My recently installed (Sept 27, 2017) Pentair Superflo vs pool pump will not run a complete "Quick Clean" cycle without stopping prematurely. It's programed to run at 3400 rpm for 4 hours, but stops after 1 and a half hours. I lowered the speed to 3000 rpm and the pump ran for 2 hours before stopping. I have my main drain throttled down some to create more skimmer action. Could it be the pump is "starving" for water because of the throttled down main drain and creating an overload condition?
  5. We have the Pentair Easy Touch. We have our booster pump (fountains) on a schedule to run 9:30-6 everyday. For some reason they don't turn on until 12:30. It's like there is some delay. I have checked both the remote and panel and the schedule is defiantly set to 9:30-6. Weird thing is the Booster Pump light comes on at 9:30 as scheduled. See photo attached. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks, Travis
  6. I would like to buy a variable speed pump that is quiet and energy efficient, with a digital display/timer. When I go to the Pentair website they have several different ones to choose from but I don't know which one is right for my pool. I have a 18,000 gallon inground gunite pool. It is salt chlorinated, not heated, and there is no spa attached. The pump I have currently is hayward 3/4 hp. A neighbor with a pool told me they love their new Pentair brand, but I would also be open to a Hayward brand. Any advice on which is proper for me?
  7. Hello All, Hope i'm in the right place for a hot tub heater question. I have a Pentair Minimax NT tsi heater. I tried to heat up the hot tub the other day and the following happened. The heater came on. I have the model with the little glass window. I could see a small glow of the starter, then the burners lit (the glow through the window was brighter and more intense), the fan blew HOT exhaust out of the top exhaust...it ran for several seconds and then the burners and igniter went out. The fan continued to blow warm-ish air out of the exhaust. Several seconds later the igniter started to glow, the burners lit and HOT air was coming out the top. It shut down again. This cycle happened a couple times and then the service light came on and it threw an E05 code. I bought and replaced the Thermistor and a new igniter. Still same codes. I ordered a new flame sensor and will put that in when it comes in. Is there something more i should be doing? Am I going in the wrong direction? Thanks in advance for your expertise, Gabe
  8. Hi all. i'm hoping someone can help me with a stripped T-Bolt on my Pentair Filter Clamp model 190003. The threads on the T-Bolt are partially stripped so it wont screw completely tight. So my question is, I see a bunch of places selling replacement T-Bolts but there's no info on how to replace it. The Bolt looks like it was put in place then the fastener was welded to hold the bolt in place. If there any way to replace it without welding it?
  9. It's been challenging to choose a heater based on conversations with pool equipment retailers. From what I've read, some retailers will have an incentive from the manufacturer to recommend a particular model over another. Also, a lot of people in the pool service industry still have a bad taste regarding logic boards going out even though the problem has been resolved supposedly. It seems every installer/service tech has their favorite brand whether it be the amount of time it takes to move the controls from one side to the other or something else but if the quality is apples to apples should I just choose the least expensive? Raypak, Pentair, and Hayward all seem to be at about the same price point. Thanks for any further clarification or insite.
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