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Found 7 results

  1. I have an older (2003) Sundance Altamar 880 spa, which are going into protect mode (watch dog error, four dashes). I can reset the error by turning of the power with the circuit breakers, but the error reappear after some time. As long as the water is cold, the massage pumps operate and the error stays away, but as soon as the water is warm enough for the massage pumps to stop, the error appears. The display also shows the "OH" (overheat) error briefly before going into protection mode. I have removed the cover in front of the heater, and it is very hot to touch. I don't know if this is normal? I have read about the watchdog error on these spas, and many are suggesting that the capacitors may be bad. They seem fine here. I personally suspect the circulation pump, as it is suspiciously quiet. Could a failed circulation pump cause these errors? Thanks!
  2. Hey Guys and Gals, I'm really hoping someone here can help me as I'm at a total loss... I recently moved into a new rental home and there is a nice 2006 Spa Coleman Hot Tub outback. It looks brand new. The owner of the property indicated it wasn't working but he would spend up to 200 on parts if I did the work to which I agreed to see if we can get it going. So first off it hasn't ran in about a year. The water in the tub is stone cold maybe 40 some degrees. When you power on the breaker the tub goes through what appears to be a self check and flashes 100 then 21 then 114 then 240 and then goes direct to an OHH (Overheat Code). I have verified DIP Switch 3 is on and all others are off as shown on the panel diagram. My immediate thought was one of the M7 sensors on the inline Balboa heater were bad. After pricing the 2 sensors I decided to just replace the entire heater with both sensors. The new heater cam today and I installed with both new M7 sensors it just fine with no issues and sure enough it still loads to the OHH screen. I am completely locked out of the panel all it will display is OHH and there is no function. Here are a few more factors that may help someone with more knowledge than me come to a conclusion... 1.) I can't find a rest button anywhere other than the GFCI Reset on the breaker panel. I have looked on the board and all along the power in cord. Am I Missing Something? 1A.) I have hosed out the filter. 2.) When I leave the power to the tub even though the OHH remains on the tub does go into its standard cycle and powers on jets to circulate water every 15 minutes. 3.) If I switch on DIP Switch 10 I get message CFE then A10. Which I understand is a programing mode for the factory and not supposed to be used by the end user. I didn't mess with it to screw up programing but did this to verify the board is in fact communicating with the topside panel. In my logic this says the board is working at least somewhat. 4.) Could it be the sensor inside the tub? That will be a bear to change the way its on the tub so I'm hoping to stay away from that if it's not the likely culprit. At the end of the day it's not my hot tub but I have a 2 year lease here and am willing to spend a few bucks to get it going. The one local spa place here charges 200 just to come out and have a look and then 150 per hour which I can't afford for just a diagnostic! Please help! I'd love to hear if you've ever experienced this or something similar and what the fix was. Happy New Year Everyone! Justin
  3. My hot tub keep cutting off and displays the OH. The tub is about 15 years old. It is not even heating up to the temp setting of 103. It will run a couple of hours then shut down with the OH on the display. When the temp gets close to 100 it shuts down. I have checked the filter and cleaned it. I have opened all the valves, the pumps are working as it should. I replaced the heating element with a heavy duty one about 4 years ago. I have cut the breaker off several times to see if it would reset itself. The temp was 98 and it cut off with the OH on the display and will not to anything even when cutting the breaker off and back on still displays OH. I don't know what to do at this point and any insight would be helpful.
  4. Hofully someone can point me in the right direction here... I have a recently acquired a 2003 550X spa and was aware that there was, and still is, an issue where it shuts down and reads 'OH'. There doesn't seem to be much of a pattern to this occurring but its fair to extremely consistent. Initially the spa heats up to anywhere around 34 with no issue at all, then cuts out. Re-sets straight away and continues to heat a little more (display set to 38). I can get the spa to full temp by resetting each time but then it seems to shut down more frequently. I initially replaced the hush pump - This was needed for more than one reason. I believe the original owner tried replacing both temp sensors. And I have checked for air blockages and the filter is new. Any help with what to try next would be much appreciated! One thought... can I test or possibly clean the flow switch easily? Is that worth trying?
  5. My 2002 Sundance Optima 850 died in the winter of 2015 after 13 years of operation. The water was cold and the display showed OH (over heat). When I started troubleshooting, everything looked correct and the water started heating. Then after a short time the temperature started rising quickly. I noticed the circulation pump wasn’t running but the heater was on. This made me think the circulation pump ($200) might be bad. As an electrical engineer I tried to get some schematics of the controller so I could determine the exact cause. If the pump wasn’t running it could be a bad pump or it could be the controller wasn’t telling it to run. Unfortunately schematics are not available. Due to the high cost of parts, shot-gunning the problem can be very expensive. I decided to write this post to explain what I did so it might be of use to other people. Looking online I saw several suggestions. Capacitor failure (<$20 for the parts) – It is possible for capacitors to fail but this is not very common. The DC voltages on the PCB are < 17 volts and the capacitors are rated at 25V. If a capacitor fails it can load down a power supply or cause ripple (AC voltage) which could affect the circuit operation in strange ways. Typically you should design with more margin but technically these parts will work. I looked at the caps and didn’t see any signs of swelling. I also checked the power supply for signs of AC ripple but there was none. Changing caps on the PCB is not as simple as it looks. The board needs to be heated so both leads can be removed at the same time and this is difficult with a soldering iron. In the process of changing the parts you can easily damage other parts. I wouldn’t recommend changing caps unless you actually had a problem that was visible. Bad temperature sensor ($30) – Several blog postings said the most common cause of OH or ---- was the temperature sensor. This part is a thermistor, a resistive element with a negative temperature coefficient. As the heat rises the resistance drops. Online I found a table listing the temperature characteristics of the thermistors used in this spa. These are 30K ohm at 25 degC. When I unplugged the sensor connector and measured the temperature sensor it read 27K and the water was around 27 degC so it looked fine. Bad Hi-Limit sensor ($30) – I checked the hi-limit sensor in the same way as the temperature sensor and it also was around 27 degC. The sensors seemed to be fine. Bad controller board ($350 – 650) – Since controller boards are expensive I really didn’t want to buy one until I knew it was bad. The controller has a microprocessor as the brains of the system. To fully understand how the system works you would need to have a schematic for the board and some information on the firmware (software for the microprocessor). I traced the circuit and discovered how the relays were wired. The board uses two driver chips to control the 12 relays. During various phases of troubleshooting I had seen cases where the heater was on and the circulation pump was off. This of course causes an overheat situation. It could be caused by a bad pump, bad relay, bad driver chip or the microprocessor not telling the relay to activate. By running the system and measuring the 5V inputs to the driver chips I discovered the board seemed to be working correctly. At this point the system started displaying --- which means it has shut down due to some problem. I was about to spring for a used controller board ($350) when I read a post that said the factory never changes the board without using a tester to simulate the sensors first. What a good idea. For the Optima 850 LDC controller I built the following test circuit http://www.pdf-archive.com/2016/06/25/optima-850-lcd-sensor-tester/ . Parts are available at places like www.jameco.com or www.digikey.com . I used a 14 pin IDC connector with a flat ribbon cable so I didn’t have to deal with crimp pins. The resistor are just 1/4W 5% parts, nothing special is required. I put the circuit in a small plastic box so I could label the switches and protect everything from touching any other electrical connections. http://www.pdf-archive.com/2016/06/26/optima-850-lcd-test-box (The controller logic runs off low voltage DC but there is 240VAC on the board for input to the power transformer and at several of the relays, so be very careful. It’s not obvious which circuit connections are high voltage.) Design of the test box allowed me to test the flow sensor and both temperature sensors. The controller requires No Flow on the flow sensor when the system powers up or it will shut down. With the flow sensor switch open, turn on the power. Close the flow sensor to simulate the circulation pump operating. Since the lowest temperature you can set on the heater is 80 degF, the design allows you to simulate heating and non-heating conditions. With this I checked the operation of the heater to verify it turned on and off properly. The hi-limit switch allows checking of overheating condition. After testing each sensor it appeared everything was working properly. When I reconnected the actual senor connector the system went back to its previous state and would not turn on. It simply displayed ----. Even though I couldn’t see anything wrong with the sensors when I measured the resistance, I decided to buy new sensors since they were cheaper than replacing the controller board. When the two sensors arrived, I replaced the temperature sensor first since it’s the easiest. The spa is now working again. Apparently there was some intermittent on the sensor that I couldn’t see. Not knowing the exact logic running the controller didn’t allow me to troubleshoot any further before taking a guess at the problem. I now have a spare hi-limit sensor in case that fails in the future. Thermistors aren’t under any stress so I don’t expect a problem; in fact I don’t know exactly what was wrong with the one I changed. The bottom line, the most common cause of this problem turned out to be exactly what several people had stated and fortunately it was one of the least expensive solutions. It's now been three weeks and the spa is working fine. PROBLEM SOLVED!
  6. Hi everyone. So we finally caved and bought a new to us Clearwater, circa 1997. I don't know the exact model, I can't find it anywhere and like a meathead, I've lost the paperwork. It has Balboa controls on it. Long story short I got it all wired and filled and fired it up, and everything seemed fine besides a pretty substantial leak next to the niche. Water temperature was 62.7*F (ambient 65.5*F) out of the hose. After a few hours had gone by, it had climbed to 67.2*F. Awesome. I did some reading on biofilm, grossed myself out so ran to the nearest store to grab some cleaner. Was gone about an hour and a half total. I came home to the spa controls displaying "Oh." Water temperature was 67.7*F. Pump was not running. I decided to cycle the power at the breaker and when I did that, I was immediately greeted with an "Sn" code. Pump does not operate at all, doesn't go through priming, just goes straight into "Sn." Have cycled a few times, this is all I get. What paperwork I've fou​nd shows that typically a machine will operate with an Sn code, and it should flash with another number. Is this correct? I pulled resistance readings and showed 61.6kohms on the temp lead, and 54.4kohms on the high-limit (which if I understand properly is the one that goes to the shell, near the footwell. I do not have dip switches to enter a test/diagnostic mode. This was with the water temp at 63.3*F. If it matters, part numbers are as follows: Control Module: Balboa DU-GRDELT-DCA 51597 Top side controls: Balboa/Clearwater, two numbers 51558 and 33394 Sensor Assy: Balboa 30337 Edit: More information - tub has not been used for at least a year, probably much longer. Tub was stored dry, clean and covered.
  7. We received this spa upon purchase of our house. It is a 2005 Sundance 880 series Majesta. We have had constant problems from day one. It has always overheated to mid 100's - 110's, no matter what the thermostat is set at (even the lowest setting of 80), and would also constantly trip the circuit breaker, and routinely go into watchdog. Over the winter it got so hot the heating element melted through the casing and it leaked. I patched the hole with water weld so the tub could hold water, but the heating element has not heated since. The temperature correctly reads in the 70's, but just does not heat and constantly runs. I was told I would need a new heater, and should also replace the high limit and temperature sensors. I purchased these and replaced them, and am confident it was done correctly. Now, upon startup, it reads that the temperature is 106 when it is really about 76, and gives the OH and Sn3 error code, indicating the temperature sensor is bad. I've switched back and forth between my new and old temperature and high limit sensors and the same problem persists since placing the new heater. The heater will start heating on startup (I can feel it get hot briefly) but then instantly will stop once the error codes kick in. Any suggestions, is it possible the new temp sensor I received is bad too, or may there be an issue with the circuit board? Any help appreciated, thank you. Chris
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