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Found 24 results

  1. My Jandy LT Heater of 9 years has started having problems - namely, that it won't start from the OneTouch remote or the service panel. The OneTouch LED turns red and it appears that the heater is running (but its not). The "heater" light on the service panel also lights up as if its on. No luck. However, if I push the "spa" button on the LT itself, it goes green and fires up within a minute or two. Any ideas what may be going on here? I've checked the wiring in the AquaLink and it doesn't look loose or disconnected. No spiderwebs or ants, etc. My thinking is that the signal isn't making it from the remote or service panel to the LT "telling" it to fire up. So how can I check this? I'm assuming that there's a board in the LT that the AquaLink "talks" to. I took the cover off the heater, but couldn't see any connection to check. Any suggestions? Thanks, Tim
  2. Hello all, I'm new to Pool Spa Forum and also for the hot tub/spa subject. Please forgive me for my lack of knowledge. I tried every search engine to find this in-ground spa brand but did not have much success. Does anybody recognize this hot tub brand in the picture? How old (roughly) is this unit? ______ Here is the full story behind this, and I have a few more questions if you have time to read. The house I purchased a few months ago came with this in-ground hot tub, and it was listed as a non-functioning item. After all the hours/yard cleaning and renovations, I finally got free time to look at the hot tub. It was covered with a heavy wooden panel, and it seems the hot tub was not used for years (tenant confirmed they did not use it for six years at least.) The acrylic/fiberglass tub had few inches of old dirty water left with some residue. I cleaned up everything and washed the tub. I filled the water and turned the two pump switches (picture 6), everything seems to be working fine. Jets working, Water circulation pump is working, heater turned on and seemed working fine too. These are the equipment this system has, Jandy LXi gas heater (runs on natural gas) Jandy Pro Series CS200 filter Two separate pumps (for water circulation and jets) Air pump (very loud) Of course, the first round of water was full of dirt/dark-colored. I removed the water and cleaned the filters (Jandy CS200, canisters 1 and 2.) Filled up again with water, added liquid chlorine (Home Depot brand and added a little over half a gallon), let it run for few hours. Removed water again and cleaned the tub shell, filters. Filled up with water for the 3rd time, added liquid chlorine, circulated for few hours every day for a week (now water is clear), pumped the water out again. Now the tub is empty, as you see in the pictures. I ordered a new filter for the Jandy CS200 to replace the old filter. I will fill water again, run one more time for a week, and remove the water for the 4th time before using it. I know this is an old hot tub, but I would like to use it until the heater/motors fail (if possible) and maybe replace this with an above-ground new hot tub. I appreciate it if can help me to identify/replace few things, and some advice, What else should I do before I use it (I will do the water PH, alkaline, chlorine balance)? Hot tub jets are old and brittle (Picture 3, 4 & 5.) I need to replace them (if possible) and want to know how to remove them. I was managed to pull two fish eye parts out (picture 5) but not the whole unit that I need to replace. Two small holes in each side of the jet cover (picture 4) are just plastic hole. Not screws or anything in it. How can I remove yellow stains on the tub shell? (stains from old water and organic materials left for years). I tried bleach, white vinegar, alcohol but had no luck of removing them. Do I need to run both pumps all the time when I use the hot tub? Can someone please explain to me the pump/filtration process in picture 6? I appreciate if you have time to help me with this project.
  3. I am a new pool owner, only had a pool about a year and a half after a new in-ground pool build. Haven’t had an issue till now, and wanted to see if anyone has had this particular issue before and what was the solution. I have attached images of all of the equipment, but we have a Jandy system, with Aqualink and PDA, an Aquapure chlorination system, and a heat pump. About a month ago our pool service told me when they checked the equipment the Aquapure system was set to 0% (was 50%). They set it back and until a week ago everything seemed to be fine but then I noticed it was back to 0% at the box and I was not able to get it to change back from the PDA or the control box. I checked the water and noticed the chlorine level was .2 since the last time the pool person came out about a week prior. So over the next week I shocked the pool, and corrected any other chemical levels, and cleaned the chlorinator and pool filters. I noticed after this was done I was able to get the box to report that Aquapure is set back to 50% on the box. So I think that is generating chlorine now, though I noticed there is a service light on now. During the time these issues began another issue happened where the pool water temperature on the PDA is being report as 200+ degrees. I cannot re-calibrate it, and due to that temperature reading I can no longer use the pool heather for the pool or spa. Has anyone had this issue? Is the temperature sensor bad? If so can anyone help me find out where that is so I can replace it? I apologize not sure why these pics uploaded upside down… Thank you for any assistance you can provide.
  4. Recently remodeled our pool. When we put the pool in spa mode the jets don't create any disturbance (no bubbles). The heater still works and the Jandy e-pump is on highest rpm possible. Just not enough pressure to make the bubbles come when the spa is in spa mode. Any possible problems come to mind?
  5. Hi All, I am a new member and in need of some help. I have a 2 year old Jandy LRZE 250 natural gas heater, wired for 220V, that will not stay lit. The problems began the first year of use, just after the warranty expired and have continued to worsen. The igniter glows bright orange, the gas valve energizes and the heater lights for 3 seconds then turns off. This cycle continues 3-4 times then I receive an error message "Ign Fault" Eventually the heater will light, but this can take anywhere from a few minutes to several hours. I have read through the formuforums and found the flame sensors are problematic. I inspected the flame sensor rod. It appeared a bit crusty, so I cleaned it. No help. I noticed the wire attached to the flame sensor had several broken strands, so I replaced it to no avail. I have read elsewhere the ignition control box is a common problem, which was also replaced, with no improvement. I had the plumber who installed the gas line check the gas pressure. He "says" it is within specifications. I was not present when the test was done so I do not have numbers. I have inspected the heater for debris which may restrict airflow, as noted in the user manual. No restrictions were found. Any thoughts? George
  6. Hello, I am hoping someone can help me with this problem, My spa will not heat anymore past 86 degrees unless its hot outside. everytime I run the spa heater it also turns on the pool filter pump and the jacuzzi water spills into the pool. It used to be able to run the spa heater alone and the pool heater alone but now its stuck doing both at the same time. everytime I try to turn off the filter pump while running the spa heater, I get this message: "pump will remain on while spa is on" then if I shut off the spa heater it shuts off the filter pump after a cool down?? I am new to this so I am not sure how to navigate the controls. I have a Jandy Aqualink RS12 system and If anyone can help me figure this out, I would be grateful. Thanks so much and please let me know if you need more information. Bobby
  7. Greetings pool gurus, Hoping to get some clues as to what's up with an older Jandy LXi heater that's not working consistently. Been in my house for about 5 years - pool and equipment came with the house, and was clearly a few years old at that point. Heater outdoors, but in a covered area so it's not getting rained on. Use the heater for integrated hot tub. Heater has been flaky the entire time we've been here - sometimes it would light, sometimes it wouldn't, sometimes it would come on once, but then not re-activate once the water temperature dropped - just flaky all around. Pool company we contracted with for service at the time could never make it work right; threw parts at it, called it "repaired", but the next time we'd go to use it (often weeks later), it would act up again. Most recently - wouldn't light at all, period. Checked resistance on the igniter; supposed to be between 40 & 75 ohms; was at 76 ohms one time, and 74 the next. Swapped it - seemed to help; lights the first time *consistently* now. Unit comes up to temperature, but will not re-ignite; ends up timing out after 3 tries, I get my ignition fault, and three flashes on the ignition control module. When this occurs, I *am* seeing the glow through the window on the side of the unit, so the igniter seems to be online. Replaced the flame sensor rod; it had a fair bit of residue on it - cleaned it first; no change, so swapped it. No change in behavior with the new sensor. Pressure sensor was replaced recently by my pool maintenance guy before I did the above - (he works for the old company, and has buddies who help with repairs) - it looks fine, both hoses are new - no obvious issues there. Would this be related to a fusible link issue, even though I'm consistently getting the ignition fault error message? Could it be the incoming airflow needs to be adjusted a bit, in that once the heater has been on for a while, the mixture needs to be slightly different to allow for the subsequent rounds of ignition and heating? I don't have the tools to measure the plenum pressure unfortunately. Open to any suggestions on what to check next; kind of a pain since I can't just do testing right off the bat - gotta let it heat up, cool down, and wait for that second attempt at heating. Unit is on propane, and has a dedicated line that's for it, a 900 square foot outbuilding, and a patio fireplace - neither of the others are in use when this occurs, and no issues with either of them. I'm stuck since the error is consistent, not pointing to other sources - appreciate any additional testing ideas or suggestions!
  8. I bought a house with an Aqualink system with an AquaPure 1400. The cell was throwing errors 120 and 121, not knowing how old the cell was...i replaced it. The errors are gone but what I've noticed is that there is no lights on in the display. The LCD shows the salinity, the chlorine level and flow... no power light, no flow light, no cell resting light. I have checked the cable, made sure it was fully plugged in and noticed mouse poop. I pulled the cable to the user interface and noticed some checking on the wire. Two of the left most wires/pins were cut (along with the red pin strip of the wire chewed through by the mouse), so I assumed that was it. I ordered a new cable and replaced it, turned the system back on and the board beeps and no LCD now. So either those two wires need to be cut (probably not the red one tho)? At this point, I'm not sure why the LCD works with the old cable but not getting any power lights? Any ideas of what I can try? Appreciate any pointers!
  9. Hello all! Pool equipment Jandy Aqualink RS6 Jandy Stealth pumps Long time reader 1st time poster. I have two issues with my pool and before I call the pool guy I want to make sure I’ve done all I can to resolve the issue on my own. 1st Issue – Pump stays on. When in auto mode or in service mode the pool pump stays on until I pop breaker or tap the relay with a screwdriver… Now here is the tricky part. I purchased and installed a new relay and the same thing happened. I had to tap the new relay with screwdriver and the pump turned off. Bad relay? I install 1 3rd one today and we will see. Any ideas? 2nd issue – Spa keeps draining each night. This just started happening. When I wake up some mornings the SPA level drops about ¼ to right above the spa jets (see pic). This does not happen every night and since its “winter in California” we are not using the SPA. My logic… If there is a SPA return valve issue the SPA should drain each night. Is that correct? Any help would be appreciated. Image links upload image free
  10. Jandy AquaPure 1400 chlorine generator is working intermittently. This is a newer model and the cell and sensor were replaced about 6 months ago. The system worked flawlessly after replacement up until a few weeks ago. Now, when the system is turned on, lights on the panel come on in the normal way over the first minutes of operation. Sometime after "Power On" , "Cell On", and "Flow" all show and chlorine is being produced (as tested by taking a sample near an outlet) the "Cell On" light will go off and all others will remain lit. With the "Cell On" light off, no chlorine is produced. The service light is not on and no error codes show at any time. While the "Cell On" light is off, if I push either the "Chlorine Production Rate" up or down arrow arrows, the "Cell On" light immediately comes on and chlorine production resumes. Sometime thereafter (between minutes and an hour) the "cell On" light goes off again. Any ideas on how to fix this?
  11. First time on this forum, so much help and information it is fantastic. I have a Jandy Aquapure 1400 SWG that is 9 years old. I have replaced salt cell and sensor in past years. I check and clean the cell and sensor every month. The cell stopped generating chlorine about 2 weeks ago, the panel shows "no flow" and the "cell reversing" light seems to stay on all the time. There are no other codes that show up on the panel. The temp and saline level readings on the front panel seem to be accurate after manually checking them as well. My sensor is the black epoxy type with the additional daughter board installed. I have tried resetting the daughter board 3-4 times by holding down the reset button but it didn't help. While holding down the reset button after about 15 seconds the "cell on" and "flow" lights on the front panel come on and off for about a second, then nothing. Also the little green light on the daughter board is constantly blinking so I don't know if that is normal or not. I had a new daughter board so I replaced it but got the same results. My questions are is the daughter board malfunctioning or do I need to replace the sensor again? I have photos of both the daughter board and face of the sensor if that would help. Thanks so much for your help.
  12. I Have a Jandy Aqualink RS, the pool and spa lights turn on without any scheduled programs. This has been happening ever since the pool was built in 2005. No pool guy has been able to figure out the problem. The following actions have proven a failure: HARD REST RESET, AND CLEAR ALL PROGRAMS (THE HARD RESET IS WHEN YOU HOLD DOWN THE RESET BUTTON FOR 10 SECS AND TURN OF BREAKER WHILE STILL HOLDING BUTTON IT, THEN TURN POWER ON WHILE STILL HOLDING RESET BUTTON 10 SECS then lettting go) DISABLED THE SPA SIDE CONTROL TO RULE OUT THAT AS WELL The lights come on every night at around 9PM and off at around 11PM, i usually just turn it off by the remote. Just so you know, there are 0 programs for the pool or spa lights, they just randomly come on without any program. Please help. Thanks in advance.
  13. Jandy Pool Heater LX400N-L Manufactured 2003 will light sometimes and when it does, it will not re-light when the water cools off. I get an AGS error code. Before this happened it was blowing a 2A fuse. The tech said it was time for a new heater. Any suggestions before spending $3000+?
  14. I have a natural gas lrz heater that is reading the wrong temp. Reads 93 when water is 80 ish, it turns on if I set the dial higher than 93 but its getting worse so I would like to fix it. Should I just replace the temp sensor or can I clean it or someething? Or is it another issue entirely? Thanks a lot
  15. New member - found this forum online - please excuse this thread if I am not participating properly... I have a one-year old Jandy LRZ heater. It worked fine all winter, but now it won't heat above 94 degrees. It also reports an incorrect water temperature. Other than that, it appears to be working properly. Thanks in advance for any replies......
  16. I need some help trouble shooting this error message on my Jandy Heater!!!!! "Shorted H20 Sensor" I have replaced the Water Sensor which is in the pipe between the filter and the heater - (thinking this was what the error was regarding, I should have known better) Is there a sensor actually inside the unit which I can replace? Or could this be a board problem...... Heater is 3 years old..... Jandy LRZ 400ep
  17. Hello On Nov 28th 2013 I noted LO indicator flashing on my Chlorinator Controller. Setting was at 20% Performed Chemistry, Chlorine was off the charts, heavy yellow Ph was high Total alkalinity 70 Salinity 3.4 Temp 47 degrees Prior to removal from service Flow Salinity Temp sensors working properly Removed from service Scale build up on probes was observed Cleaned chlorinator using mix of water and muriatic acid Returned to service LO indicator continues to flash. All sensor points operating normally Flow and Cell Reversing lights are On LO continues to flash Increased Chlorination to 70% No activity of Chlorinator was noted > No Cell ON indication was created by % increase in chlorine production rate Turned Power off to controller, waited 5 minutes Returned to service LO continues to flash and all sensors active. Cell Reversing light on constantly Thanks for your assistance. Todd
  18. I have a jandy 125,000 btu above ground heater but I want to use it on my 35,000 gallon inground pool..not sure if it would work though using above ground heater for inground. thanks for all help
  19. I have a jandy controller. The panel is in the house. The controller box is outside next to the filter. From that it is connected to a pool pilot dig 220. Question. Why isnt the display board on the pool pilot working? I can't even run the pump for the pool. I am assuming no power to the pool pilot. From the jandy controller in service mode I can here the relay click, but nothing. I can run the pump for the water falls. I think the pump for water falls is in same relay as pump for pool. Do I need a new pool pilot? Can I check to see if approprite power from jandy is going to pool pilot? I am handy with a volt meter. I do not see anything burnt inside the pool pitol. I can also turn on lights in pool. Also, I can remotly turn valve for solar heat in service mode.
  20. I have a Jandy LX 250, about 8 years old. It is connected throught the fireman's switch to a Jandy RS6 control center. Both thermostats (pool & Spa) on the heater are set to max. The heater will come on and bring the water up to the temperature set on the control center. When the water temperature drops, the control center activates, however the heater doesn't come one. I hear the blower fan for maybe a minute. then nothing. No error lights, and the spa or heater light remain solid. Rather than start blinking when the burns are light. I hear no ignition clicks. It seems after it sits for a while, the heater will come on, and the process will start all over again. I have replaced the temperature sensor, and cleaned the flame sensor. Any thought on what the problem may be? Thanks,
  21. We had a new pool installed last summer. All Jandy equipment - heater, aqua pure, pump, filter. We went a little overboard on the size and blew our pool budget for the automation features. I'm getting tried of turning the pump on/off. Trying to educate myself on Jandy remote control components however with so many options - I'm very confused. Can anybody recommend an inexpensive setup for the following: Pump Control Heater Control 1 value (deck jets) with Remote Control or iPhone Your advice is greatly appreciated.
  22. Ever since we opened our pool we have been trying to get the water clear and everything working properly. This is our 1st year opening it since it was new last year. It is an above ground pool with a jandy salt system chlorine generator. ( I think that is what it is called). The jandy reads " no flow". This is the only reading since we have plugged it in. I have cleaned the cell which then looked better but didn't change reading. Our filter flow would deteriorate after a couple days. We lubed the lid to the motor pot. Our pool person suggested we were probably losing prime. Sounds good but reading still says " no flow". Been shocking the pool and added a lot of salt and a couple things here and there to try and clear up the pool. My last guess for the Jandy is the flow switch part. Does that sound right ? I don't mind replacing it but I'm hoping thats the issue then. When we took it apart to bring in for the winter the back plastic top seems to be snapped a little. Doesn't really look like it would have any effect on anything since the paddle still moves inside and all looks like its in tact where it matters. Any ideas or tips I'd appreciate. We are frustrated and not really fond of the help from the pool place.
  23. I have a 250000 BTU LoNox heater. The heater kicks on and off without reaching temperature. Sometimes the burners will come back on after a minute or so. Sometimes after 10 minutes, sometimes the heater need to sit idle for a few hours before it will work again. Generally it will not bring the water up to the set temp. If it does the heater will not maintain the temperature. Also the blower will start, then the burners will go out. I just replaced the flame sensor, and seems to be worse. Both the pool and spa sides of the heater are set to max. I have the same problem weather I have the heater set on the pool or spa. The heater is activited by a Jandy Aquqlink control. Even at best the spa will come up to about 99 degrees, with the remote system set at 101. Then stop funtioning.
  24. Just bought a used Jandy lite 2 250LJ pool heater. hooked this thing up and it ran for 5 to 10 min. then it quit and the control display flashes on and off no codes just everything flashes any help would be very appreciated.
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