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Found 18 results

  1. Hello, Everyone. This salt / chlorine generation has been a nightmare since buying my home with an inground pool 4 years ago. (Salt, 28k gallon, gunite, 2 skimmers, 1hp super pump, DE hayward pro-grid filter). My issues are around chlorine generation. The salt system is an older Mineral Springs MS-10 Control Panel with software version (r 1.40). I just bought a brand new $900 Hayward salt cell (TCELL 940) a couple hrs ago. I have flow, I have power, I have all chemicals in, water tested, all good -- yet the following issues are present: When I turn Control Panel off, and then switch back up to Auto (on), all green lights are activated and system is generating/working. 5 minutes pass and then I hear a single click noise inside the Panel and then the Green Light next to "Generating Sanitizer" disappears. So I don't believe it's Generating anymore. Secondly, Check Minerals gets lit up Red. Thirdly, inspect cell gets lit up solid Orange (not blinking, and when I hold the selection button down for 3-4 seconds, it doesn't turn off, like I read it should). So not sure what this is all about? Could the older control panel not be compatible with the new salt cell? (Think of hooking together a computer from 2005 with parts from today, 2020; compatibility may be an issue?) Also, what setting do I need to choose on the Control Panel. AL-0, AL-1, AL-2, AL-3, AL-4, AL-5? Perhaps the software version (r 1.40) isn't compatible, either? I don't know. Maybe time to just buy a new Control Panel from the year 2020? I'm sooo tempted to just bulldoze and fill this pool in, and plant some pepper & squash plants! If anyone can lend a minute of assistance, it would be SOOO APPRECIATED! Your Fellow American, David
  2. I have a Hayward Pro grid DE6020. I put in all new grids, and made sure everything was tight. I added new DE and had no kick back, but now when I shut the pump off to empty the pump strainer, I see a short stream of DE re-entering the pool every time I restart the pump. Any ideas?
  3. So hopefully this is in the right place, I'll start off with a little back information just to bring anyone willing to share their knowledge up to speed. We finally bought our first home about 6 months ago, the property has on it a in ground indoor pool, (about 15,0000 gallons I believe). I have never in my life owned or maintained a pool so I am still very new to this world. We fell in love with the house and had the pool building itself inspected but unfortunately didn't understand how important a pool inspector would be. After dealing with a stained liner, and cleaning up a slightly neglected building I finally was able to get the water balanced out for the most part and find a propane company willing to work with me (some of them here wont service pools)... unfortunately when it came time to hook up everything we found out that we would have to invest in a new pool heater, we rolled out the over 20 year old raypak and just received our new hayward h200fd, the vent pipe looked ok from the outside and I ignorantly assumed I could reuse it, which of course I quickly realized would not happen. The hayward instructions are somewhat vague, the pool stores near me can't offer more then the number of someone to call, doesn't even sound like it would be a professional and I already have a friend of the family that is an electrician and owns a home improvement business helping us tackle it, he has installed pool heaters before just not indoors. I have now ordered a positive pressure vent kit for the model I have and am starting to become concerned if I ordered the right thing or not, apparently negative pressure is for vertical venting, and positive pressure is for horizontal, I believe since the vent pipe will be going out the side of the building it is considered horizontal, also, also I would like to understand what a drip tee is and if I need one, why the old system didn't have one but did need a draft hood? Lastly this vent adapter is coming from a company called heatfab, they have other vent pipe material to purchase and it's shown in the owners manual the part numbers for the rest of the piping to go out the building, the prices they ask are very high, just the adapter was almost $250 So we would prefer just to go to a hardware store and buy a few feet of double wall stainless vent pipe, is there a reason against doing this? Thank in advance, I know this was a lot at once but I'm finally at the point where I can admit I am lost...
  4. Does a Hayward lights (same model but different cord length) have also different wire size or just the same? Example:Hayward model: LPCUS11030 - 30ftLPCUS11050 - 50ftLPCUS11100 - 100ftAlso, anyone tried hayward LFGUY1000 niche for universal colorlogic?Thanks in advance.
  5. I would like to buy a variable speed pump that is quiet and energy efficient, with a digital display/timer. When I go to the Pentair website they have several different ones to choose from but I don't know which one is right for my pool. I have a 18,000 gallon inground gunite pool. It is salt chlorinated, not heated, and there is no spa attached. The pump I have currently is hayward 3/4 hp. A neighbor with a pool told me they love their new Pentair brand, but I would also be open to a Hayward brand. Any advice on which is proper for me?
  6. i have a HAYWARD sp1515-z-1-esc it is 1.5 HP . its been a daunting task to attempt to repair this pump. it wasnt turning at all. so i decided to take it apart . i was able to do that but couldnt without first breaking the four thru bolts. well i did remove the armature it was really corroded .. so after cleaning everything up,and putting it all back together. I now have a free turning armature. unfortunately i have to plug in the pump and give it a quick turn with a srewdriver for it to start turning. But here is the problem it only turns for about 5 to 7 seconds before it starts smoking. i am not sure if its the plate that has the switch thats giving me the problem. if it is i cant find anywhere that has any parts for this OLD pump.
  7. I have a Hayward H350FDP propane heater for my spa that is about 7 years old. It turned the unit on this weekend which is run at least a couple times a month and I could hear the blowing blowing but the heat and gas would not kick on. What kind of things can I trouble shoot to see what the problem might be? The only error code on the screen was b0 which I think it just something to do with a bypass to use the remote. Thanks
  8. The folks at my local pool store swear up and down that it must by my Hayward multi-port valve. The handle doesn't snap back into place when you pull it down. I took it apart and sure enough the spider gasket is in very rough shape (glued!) and I guess I'm going to replace the top part of the valve as well since the handle/spring seems worn out. Here's the problem. It doesn't make sense to me. If the multipart was leaking then wouldn't water come out of the discharge line? Wouldn't leaking only occur when the pump is on? Somebody please set me straight.
  9. I am a newbie pool owner, so I am not familiar with the pool equipment yet. I bought a Hayward Chlorine Feeder (CL220 Off-Line Automatic), but I don't know where to attach it. You can see pictures of my pool equipment at http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=8BauGTlq4ZKLVQ
  10. Alittle background; I have a 10,000 gallon salt water pool with an Aqua Rite generator, R 1.4, I had the pool installed in 2006 and 3 yrs ago my Cell failed and made the "mistake" of calling the guys who put my pool in and they went and got me a Hayward Turbo Cell T-15 for the bargain price of $650. Fast forward to present day: found out my T-15 failed 3 months after the warranty expired. so searching online I found a great price on a Hayward Turbo Cell T-3, which all indications showed it was a viable replacement. but after I got it I find it needed firmware of 1.5 or better, so Im back to the drawing board with a brand new cell that isn't compatible. Question: can I upgrade my firmware? or Do I have to buy a new motherboard? if so any suggestions... Thanks in advance...I can be reached also at jfw22@cox.net Jim
  11. I have the following equipment and want to add SWG and in the process automate the equipment and make it easier to switch between pool and spa and control the temps. Pool is 26K and spa must be around 4-5K gallons Pump: Pentair Variable Speed (4 speed) Filter: Purex 4000 series DE filter (10 plus years old but really well kept and serviced) Heater: Purex Mini Max Plus heater (10+ years old with rotary knobs for the temp controls) Pool and Spa each has 1 LED LIght with many color combinations I was thinking to go with the Hayward Aquarite chlorine generator with the T-Cell 15 for 40K pools but upon further review and paying only $200 more I can get the hayward PL-Plus Automation and 40K gallon chlorination. I will also purhcase 2 automated valve actuator (preferably Hayward) and connect the puzzle together for an easier single control center for all our needs and if need be a remote control to have handy? I am not sure how to add the current older heater into the control unit or will I have to purhcase a new heater to use thru the new controller? Your comments and ideas are welcome. Located in Southern California. Thanks
  12. I have a Hayward cartridge filter with four cartridges. The top closure plate (manifold) is broken in two places along the flat part around the part that fits inside the cartridge. It seems to still fit ok, but I've started having a problem with brown silt at the bottom of my pool and cloudy water. I've replaced the cartridges and used Pool First Aid, and ran the filter overnight. This seemed to clear things up for a day, but the cloudiness and bottom silt have returned. Chlorine and pH levels are normal. Is it likely that the problem is, in fact, that I just need to replace the top closure plate? I've ordered one just in case. I run my pump 8 hours a day, and am also wondering if it might help to run it 10 hours. Any tips are appreciated. Thanks!
  13. My old Hayward Super II has been leaking for a long time and I decided to do something about it. I watched some videos on You Tube and opened up the pump. I replaced the gaskets and shaft seal and applauded myself when it didn’t leak anymore. Until the next morning when it started up again and there was an even bigger leak. I took it apart and put it back together multiple times, never getting rid of the leak. On my attempt yesterday, it worked for a couple of minutes and then the pump clicked off. I took the pump to a local shop. When they hooked it up to power, it sparked. It turned out that two of the wires to the capacitor were rubbed by the mechanism at the back of the shaft and the protective coating was worn away leaving bare metal. The tech first suggested that I stop working on it and get a variable speed pump (I’m considering it). He said that the capacitors both looked fine and that I could probably tape up the wires (he said he wasn’t allowed to do it) and that the pump should work for a while. I took the pump home, put electrical tape on the bare sections of the wires, and hooked the pump up and nothing happened. Any thoughts? I am not willing to put much money into this--if I have to, I'll go ahead and buy a variable speed. I know all about the rebate from our electric company and the benefits of the variable speed. It's the upfront cost when I've got other bills, like food, mortgage, college tuitions, etc.
  14. Hello, Which brand has the most reliable products of Hayward, Jandy and Pentair? It's for a salt water automation/clarification unit. Thanks!
  15. I recently moved into a house with a pool and everything was working fine. However, now the pool cleaner moves VERY slow and the pump psi is around 30. I have a Haywrd system with a cartridge. I have pulled out the cartridge and cleaned. When I clean I very thoroughly the system drops to about 18-20 psi but that only lasts about a day then it goes back to 30psi and moving across the pool bottom slowly. What can I do to get this system running properly? I have taken the cartridge to pinch a penny and they said that the cartridges fine and doesn't need to be replaced.
  16. Last year I bought a house with an old inground pool that uses a Hayward Super Pump and a Hayward 270T sand filter. This year, after changing the sand (350 lbs.), I've encountered a problem. When I go to suction the bottom of the pool, the suction on the pump decreases significantly, until there is no water flow whatsoever--there is water in the pump system (because the basket section is full to the lid with water), it's just not moving. After that, I have to switch the pump off and on a couple of times, which starts the water moving again. It appears to me that the problem is with the pump not having enough strength, so that when it's tasked with suction duties, it slows down to a halt. (Note that the motor is still running). Do I need to replace the impeller? Seals? Can anyone make a recommendation? Thanks.
  17. This is my second year with a vintage Buster Crabbe inground pool. Last year was a successful one learning all the basics. At the beginning of this season I decided I should change the sand in my 270T filter. All went well and I've been filtering (with a few backflushes) for a couple of days. Today, however, I started vacuuming the bottom and at point the return flow diminished (I was using a skimmer basket and of course the pump basket, and not using the was setting--this is how I did it last year). I turned off the pump, cleaned all the baskets, backwashed and rinsed, and then restarted filtering. The return flow was strong for about 30 seconds and then went to just about zero. I backflushed and rinsed a couple of more times with the same results. Trying to determine where the problem is, I checked flow on backwash and waste settings, with positive results--the water flows properly. Then I ran the rinse for a minute or so and monitored flow, and just as with the filter setting, the flow (this time away from the pool) diminished. So, I know that the problem is within the filter and not within the return line to the pool. Any thoughts? Could I have put too much sand in the filter? I was a little more than the recommended six inches from the top (more like eight). I used standard filter sand. Could it be a problem with the laterals? Could they somehow have been crushed? Why would it work for four days before this problem. And why after vacuuming? Have I put really bad slugde into the filter that won't come out? Also, the pump is working well, pulling/pushing as it should (when the settings are backwash and waste.
  18. It's been challenging to choose a heater based on conversations with pool equipment retailers. From what I've read, some retailers will have an incentive from the manufacturer to recommend a particular model over another. Also, a lot of people in the pool service industry still have a bad taste regarding logic boards going out even though the problem has been resolved supposedly. It seems every installer/service tech has their favorite brand whether it be the amount of time it takes to move the controls from one side to the other or something else but if the quality is apples to apples should I just choose the least expensive? Raypak, Pentair, and Hayward all seem to be at about the same price point. Thanks for any further clarification or insite.
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