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Found 18 results

  1. Hello, Everyone. This salt / chlorine generation has been a nightmare since buying my home with an inground pool 4 years ago. (Salt, 28k gallon, gunite, 2 skimmers, 1hp super pump, DE hayward pro-grid filter). My issues are around chlorine generation. The salt system is an older Mineral Springs MS-10 Control Panel with software version (r 1.40). I just bought a brand new $900 Hayward salt cell (TCELL 940) a couple hrs ago. I have flow, I have power, I have all chemicals in, water tested, all good -- yet the following issues are present: When I turn Control Panel off,
  2. I have a Hayward Pro grid DE6020. I put in all new grids, and made sure everything was tight. I added new DE and had no kick back, but now when I shut the pump off to empty the pump strainer, I see a short stream of DE re-entering the pool every time I restart the pump. Any ideas?
  3. So hopefully this is in the right place, I'll start off with a little back information just to bring anyone willing to share their knowledge up to speed. We finally bought our first home about 6 months ago, the property has on it a in ground indoor pool, (about 15,0000 gallons I believe). I have never in my life owned or maintained a pool so I am still very new to this world. We fell in love with the house and had the pool building itself inspected but unfortunately didn't understand how important a pool inspector would be. After dealing with a stained liner, and cleaning up a slightly neglec
  4. Does a Hayward lights (same model but different cord length) have also different wire size or just the same? Example:Hayward model: LPCUS11030 - 30ftLPCUS11050 - 50ftLPCUS11100 - 100ftAlso, anyone tried hayward LFGUY1000 niche for universal colorlogic?Thanks in advance.
  5. I would like to buy a variable speed pump that is quiet and energy efficient, with a digital display/timer. When I go to the Pentair website they have several different ones to choose from but I don't know which one is right for my pool. I have a 18,000 gallon inground gunite pool. It is salt chlorinated, not heated, and there is no spa attached. The pump I have currently is hayward 3/4 hp. A neighbor with a pool told me they love their new Pentair brand, but I would also be open to a Hayward brand. Any advice on which is proper for me?
  6. i have a HAYWARD sp1515-z-1-esc it is 1.5 HP . its been a daunting task to attempt to repair this pump. it wasnt turning at all. so i decided to take it apart . i was able to do that but couldnt without first breaking the four thru bolts. well i did remove the armature it was really corroded .. so after cleaning everything up,and putting it all back together. I now have a free turning armature. unfortunately i have to plug in the pump and give it a quick turn with a srewdriver for it to start turning. But here is the problem it only turns for about 5 to 7 seconds before it starts smoking. i
  7. I have a Hayward H350FDP propane heater for my spa that is about 7 years old. It turned the unit on this weekend which is run at least a couple times a month and I could hear the blowing blowing but the heat and gas would not kick on. What kind of things can I trouble shoot to see what the problem might be? The only error code on the screen was b0 which I think it just something to do with a bypass to use the remote. Thanks
  8. The folks at my local pool store swear up and down that it must by my Hayward multi-port valve. The handle doesn't snap back into place when you pull it down. I took it apart and sure enough the spider gasket is in very rough shape (glued!) and I guess I'm going to replace the top part of the valve as well since the handle/spring seems worn out. Here's the problem. It doesn't make sense to me. If the multipart was leaking then wouldn't water come out of the discharge line? Wouldn't leaking only occur when the pump is on? Somebody please set me straight.
  9. I am a newbie pool owner, so I am not familiar with the pool equipment yet. I bought a Hayward Chlorine Feeder (CL220 Off-Line Automatic), but I don't know where to attach it. You can see pictures of my pool equipment at http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=8BauGTlq4ZKLVQ
  10. Alittle background; I have a 10,000 gallon salt water pool with an Aqua Rite generator, R 1.4, I had the pool installed in 2006 and 3 yrs ago my Cell failed and made the "mistake" of calling the guys who put my pool in and they went and got me a Hayward Turbo Cell T-15 for the bargain price of $650. Fast forward to present day: found out my T-15 failed 3 months after the warranty expired. so searching online I found a great price on a Hayward Turbo Cell T-3, which all indications showed it was a viable replacement. but after I got it I find it needed firmware of 1.5 or better, so Im back to th
  11. I have the following equipment and want to add SWG and in the process automate the equipment and make it easier to switch between pool and spa and control the temps. Pool is 26K and spa must be around 4-5K gallons Pump: Pentair Variable Speed (4 speed) Filter: Purex 4000 series DE filter (10 plus years old but really well kept and serviced) Heater: Purex Mini Max Plus heater (10+ years old with rotary knobs for the temp controls) Pool and Spa each has 1 LED LIght with many color combinations I was thinking to go with the Hayward Aquarite chlorine generator with the T-Cell 15 for 40K pool
  12. I have a Hayward cartridge filter with four cartridges. The top closure plate (manifold) is broken in two places along the flat part around the part that fits inside the cartridge. It seems to still fit ok, but I've started having a problem with brown silt at the bottom of my pool and cloudy water. I've replaced the cartridges and used Pool First Aid, and ran the filter overnight. This seemed to clear things up for a day, but the cloudiness and bottom silt have returned. Chlorine and pH levels are normal. Is it likely that the problem is, in fact, that I just need to replace the top closure pl
  13. My old Hayward Super II has been leaking for a long time and I decided to do something about it. I watched some videos on You Tube and opened up the pump. I replaced the gaskets and shaft seal and applauded myself when it didn’t leak anymore. Until the next morning when it started up again and there was an even bigger leak. I took it apart and put it back together multiple times, never getting rid of the leak. On my attempt yesterday, it worked for a couple of minutes and then the pump clicked off. I took the pump to a local shop. When they hooked it up to power, it sparked. It turned
  14. Hello, Which brand has the most reliable products of Hayward, Jandy and Pentair? It's for a salt water automation/clarification unit. Thanks!
  15. I recently moved into a house with a pool and everything was working fine. However, now the pool cleaner moves VERY slow and the pump psi is around 30. I have a Haywrd system with a cartridge. I have pulled out the cartridge and cleaned. When I clean I very thoroughly the system drops to about 18-20 psi but that only lasts about a day then it goes back to 30psi and moving across the pool bottom slowly. What can I do to get this system running properly? I have taken the cartridge to pinch a penny and they said that the cartridges fine and doesn't need to be replaced.
  16. Last year I bought a house with an old inground pool that uses a Hayward Super Pump and a Hayward 270T sand filter. This year, after changing the sand (350 lbs.), I've encountered a problem. When I go to suction the bottom of the pool, the suction on the pump decreases significantly, until there is no water flow whatsoever--there is water in the pump system (because the basket section is full to the lid with water), it's just not moving. After that, I have to switch the pump off and on a couple of times, which starts the water moving again. It appears to me that the problem is with the
  17. This is my second year with a vintage Buster Crabbe inground pool. Last year was a successful one learning all the basics. At the beginning of this season I decided I should change the sand in my 270T filter. All went well and I've been filtering (with a few backflushes) for a couple of days. Today, however, I started vacuuming the bottom and at point the return flow diminished (I was using a skimmer basket and of course the pump basket, and not using the was setting--this is how I did it last year). I turned off the pump, cleaned all the baskets, backwashed and rinsed, and then restarted
  18. It's been challenging to choose a heater based on conversations with pool equipment retailers. From what I've read, some retailers will have an incentive from the manufacturer to recommend a particular model over another. Also, a lot of people in the pool service industry still have a bad taste regarding logic boards going out even though the problem has been resolved supposedly. It seems every installer/service tech has their favorite brand whether it be the amount of time it takes to move the controls from one side to the other or something else but if the quality is apples to apples should
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