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Found 5 results

  1. Hi, Looking for advice on how to remove this check valve. I have unscrewed it at the top and thats now come away so all good. The bottom is glued in......so do I need to cut the pipe low down to remove then get a straight connector and a short cutting of pipe when re installing the new one? Thanks
  2. I have a Rainbow 320 in line chlorinator. It already has a check valve incorporated in the bottom of it. Pool guy told me today I should have another check valve installed in the plumbing line between the chlorinator and heater to ensure chemicals do not flow into heater. After thinking about it it struck me as odd since he installed the heater to begin with and did not mention it at the time of install. Is the Rainbow 320 built in check valve sufficient or is a secondary check valve warranted? Have not had any issues with heater in 2 years since install. Thanks for your input.
  3. Bought a new filter and multiport valve. The valve connections are backwards from what I have so I need to plumb the pump to the left side (see picture) of the valve. Thinking about using flex PVC to make it gentle, it would otherwise require 4 90s at least. First, thoughts on this approach? While I am at it, I also want to put a check valve before the pump so that the pump doesn't always drain back to the pool and stress the pump on priming. Do I need a check valve like they have there at the inlet side to the multiport valve? Seems useless and I am going to redo right back to the pump and delete the cleaner line and associated crap you see to the right. I was thinking rigid pipe to a union to flex pvc from the pump. My return that runs through the heater would also be redone for better flow. Overall this seems like the best approach to me.but wanted to ask here if I have missed something? Questions. 1) thought on check valves, delete the one at the valve and add one before the pump? 2)flex PVC as opposed to some hard pipe gymnastics? I think the flow may well be improved and thus make the new pump more efficient. Thanks in advance.
  4. Have a 1993 Tiger River Spa, Check valve is broken, not enough room to replace it, tube sticks out just a little in the upper right corner and doesn't seem to be movable. Anyone have this problem and have suggestion?
  5. After my system has shut off, water from my raised spa drains into the pool overnight until the levels are roughly equal. After reading other posts, I concluded the Jandy check valve on the spa return line might be the cause so I ordered a new valve. Upon removal of the old check valve, I discovered it was positioned with the red flapper flush against the pvc pipe. Water flowing through the line has no effect on it. The old check valve was in fine condition. It was originally installed this way 8 years ago when the pool was constructed. The drainage problem with the spa began about a month ago. I installed the new check valve anyway; first the same way as the original one, and then I also repositioned it with the red flapper to open if spa return valve opened. The problem of spa draining into pool overnight persists regardless. Since the check valve is not the problem, what could be causing the spa to drain? (And why was the check valve installed in such a way in the first place - it seems to have no purpose that way!) I thought I had it beat with the check valve - now I'm stumped! Thanks for any advice!
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