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Found 13 results

  1. I'm preparing a concrete patio that will have a 7'x9' hot tub with a Vac-Formed ABS Pan Bottom. Master Spas shows the location of a 6"x6" location underneath where to run the electrical. The local hot tub shop where I purchased the tub however said NOT to come up through the pan bottom but have the electrical come up through the slab outside the tub and the run the conduit through the side wall of the tub. That sounds easy enough but isn't very appealing to the eye or friendly to toes and shins. I'm looking for recommendations or Pros/Cons for doing it either way. If we come up from underneath, is the conduit supposed to be cut flush so the tub can just slide over it? The dry weight on the tub is 1,485 pounds! The electrician would need to cut a hole in the pan, hopefully right over the conduit, and extend the conduit up through the pan and then pull the wires. What have people used to seal the gap between the conduit and hole in the pan to keep critters out? Is this method really that tuff for the workers setting the tub or for the electrician? Thanks, Gary B.
  2. I just picked up a 1998 Dakota Skyler with a 4kW heater controlled by a Balboa LiteLD CCAJ board. The heater wasnt working, was corroded... I replaced it with a new 4W coil. Still no heat. Temp probe is good, pressure sensor is good. I'm wired on 240V. Pump works on both speeds. Supply AC is correct. Heater measures 120VAC above ground on BOTH sides when call for heat is on (heat light on panel on). Both sides of heating coil are 120 V above ground, 240 V above black, and 0V above red. Thus 0V across the heater coil and no heat. So both sides of the coil are electrically connected to red and no voltage difference across them. I pulled the board out. It has 5 relays. The coils on 4 of them measure about 260 Ohms each, and one shows no continuity. Thus I presume a bad relay (th ed relay that connects to one side of the heater coil). The contactors on the relays work fine, as each tested well with a meter. I reinstalled the board and manually tripped the relay that I suspect is dead. However that did not change the voltage readings across the heater as I hoped it would. I've ordered a couple new relays. But I could use some advice!! What can anyone recommend? It would be much better with heat!! Thanks much!! Eric
  3. To anyone who can help, I have an M-Spa J-213 Luxury Exotic portable spa, which had been having some electrical issues. I got a newish power distribution board from a friend to fix the problem but I have no idea where all the wires plug in at. If anyone happens to have this spa, I would very much appreciate a picture of the board correctly wired up so I can get this thing running. Equally valuable would be some advice from someone knowledgeable on the subject. Thank you
  4. Folks, Have a 2002 Maquis spa, with a 1 (of 2) new pumps and a new heater. Wired myself. Ran fine for several months, now that it's winter, seems to consistently be tripping the supply (not the GFI cut-out box) CB. Have some milder weather, so testing again, but what is reasonable to expect? In "standby mode", with only the one pump on low and the heater on is when this is happening. Is this a hot tub problem, or an electrical problem? Seems to run fine, even with all pumps on, for about 10 mins, then trips the CB. Thanks!! Z
  5. I have a need for some lighting and therefore a separate 115v 15amp circuit and the nearest location is the Hotsprings spa sub panel. Now I know the Hotsprings spa requires a dedicated 50amp circuit. Still I was considering - if okay to tie in to the 20 or 30 amp breaker for some low voltage led lights. I realize this is not code but I believe the spa draws near the maximum required amps on both the 20 and 30 amp breaker. 1. Has anyone else done this tie in successfully? 2. Did you tie in to the 20 or 30 amp circuit (i'm considering adding a single 15amp receptacle) 3. I have No other option except and extension cord Thank you
  6. I have a caldera Tarino hot tub. It is a 115 or a 230v model. When I received it from the dealer it had the 115 cord hooked up to it and I wanted it hooked up to 230v. How do I know that it is set up fully for 230v 50a and able to run the heater on high jet and not only on low. I also got it with speakers that are not hooked up does anyone know what I have to do to to make those work. I was told by the dealer I could by a Bluetooth adapter for it but I haven't found one that looks like it will work. And can I use the USB port located inside
  7. What position are the white, red and black wires to be attached to the back of the motor? Please end my confusion. We have a Leisure Bay spa with a Series S2 Board built by Balboa. It allows the spa to be wired 115V yet can be wired as 220V. After removing the motor for cleaning out dead bugs reinstalling it was easy until it was time to wire it. Now I cannot figure out where the black or the red wires go. The phrase that appears Jeffery where is: red is high speed". My motor is connected: 2 is White, 3 is Black and 4 is red. Now two sources say the red should be number 3 and the back number 4. At the present time all the spa produces is low speed. the heater works, pressure switch is new. Spa is hard wired by an electrician for 220V. Another confusion is the black wire that goes to the motor comes off a tab labeled "common Black", is this possible? ASOSmith motor, 110V, 2 speed, 1 phsase, John
  8. I am expecting delivery of Beachcomber "Copper Cove" soon. It is rated at 55 amps and calls for #6/3 and no longer a length of wire than 70'. Well, That aint happening because the shortest distance that I can possibly run service from the main breaker box to a cut-off to the tub is about 140'. So, my plan (indeed I have implemented most already...I guess I'm just looking for reassurance or a wave-off if I am asking for trouble) is to run #6 wire (red, white, black, and green) all in individual insulation within a 1" PVC conduit from the GFCI breaker cut-off to the tub itself. That distance is 50'. This part is done. So, now I am trying to decide between using more 6/3 as above for the 75' run from the main breaker (240v/2 pole) to the GFCI cut-off, or if I should use 4/3 for that run. My hot tub shut-off has room for not only the 60-amp hot tub breaker but also 2 additional 20 amp GFCI breakers, both of which I intend to run a couple ceiling fans, a few LED light fixtures, and a couple of wall outlets from one day in the future when I get my patio built. If it was not for this intention, I think 6/3 the entire length may just make it...but that isn't going to be the case. Also, I am pouring my pad this week and I have heard I should ground the re-bar in the pad with a grounding rod and also ground the tub itself to that same bar. I have heard to also ground the Cut-Off panel with a copper rod, and of course make sure a ground wire goes from the hot tub to the cut-off panel to the main breaker. How does this sound and does anybody see a better way of doing things?
  9. Just purchased a variable speed motor (10A max), and decided to completely re-wire from the house to the pool. Old switches and receptacles were rusty, etc and seemed like a good time to upgrade everything. Running 10-gauge wire out to pool inside pvc conduit the entire length. Would like to install a plug end on the pool motor instead of hard-wiring, so I can easily remove pump/motor assy for the winter here in CT. Using a US MOTORS/EMERSON ECOTECH EZ #EVSJ15-NS Variable Speed Motor wired for 230V. Motor only calls for 3-wire connection (L1-black, L2-red, and Ground-Green). However, when I look at 30A and 50A receptacles, appears latest code (after 1996) calls for 4-wire receptacles and plugs for 230V appliances. I have a 4-conductor 10g wiring running from main panel to the GFCI enclosure on the house. Should/can I run 3 wires out to pool (eliminating white wire), install a 3-prong receptacle, and run a 3-prong plug-in from the motor. Or, should I run 4 wires out to pool, install a 4-prong receptacle, use a 4-wire plug on the motor, but just not connect the white wire? Don't want to run 4th wire out too pool, if it's not going to be used, and at cost of copper wire (x 60 ft), seems like a waste, unless req'd by code. And. . . if required by code, why isn't a brand new VS motor setup for a 4-wire connection? I am obviously mounting everything in weatherproof boxes (was planning to use 30A or 50A weatherproof enclosures from GE designed for outdoor RV hookups). Hoping some electricians chime in and can lend some guidance. Trying to wire and pick up parts this weekend, so any comments today would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for your assistance.
  10. Hi, Three wires are disconnected from the circuit board near where external power comes into my Hot Spring Sovereign. The wire colors are green, white, and black and appear to run to the heater. Where should these wires be connected? Terminals P2 and P3 are open, and the GND hole appears to be missing a screw. Here's a photo: http://imgur.com/PKHGaY8 I don't have the manual and am not sure what year the tub is. An electrician told me that if it's 240v then it doesn't matter which terminal black or white go to since polarity doesn't matter. It would be nice to see a photo of what it's supposed to look like. Thanks
  11. I purchased a used Hot Springs Prodigy H hot tub. They originally had it wired using the 115 VAC wiring. When I installed it I went ahead and converted the tub to the 220 VAC converted Spa wiring. I did everything as described. Used 8-3 wire from the panel to the sub panel (55ft). then 10-2 and 12-2 wire from the two (30A & 20A) GFCI breakers in the sub panel to the hot tub (8ft). All wires are sealed in the liquid tight casing and fittings. I removed the jumpers on the Terminal block and installed one at the 4 & 5 locations and installed the program jumpers in locations 1, 2, 3, & 9 as directed by the owners manual and the wiring label on the back of the board cover. When I turn on power to the spa the LIM OK light is lit up green and the control unplugged is lit up red. Nothing will operate. I have triple checked everything and I can not seem to figure out what I am over looking. The control is plugged in and I witnessed it with my own eyes working correctly before I swapped it to the 230 VAC converted spa requirements. What am i missing?
  12. Hello All, I acquired a hot tub from a buddy who bought a new home with the tub left behind. He didn't want it, and the tub was in really nice shape, so I figured what the heck? I've read as much as I could about how to wire up the tub correctly and to code. Not looking for a shortcuts, but would like to save what dollars I can. It's a 220 / 50 amp set up. The tub sits on my deck. I was able to run four #6 THWN wires from the tub to the shut off box mounted on a deck post (about 6 feet away) from the the tub. I ran these wires in pvc under the deck to the tub. (The deck is high enough off the ground that I can crawl and work under it pretty easily.) Anyway.... My question in in regards to running the wire from the breaker box located in my basement to the outside disconnect box. Inside the house, I need a run of about 55 feet from the breaker to the outside basement wall. From the outside wall, there's another 20 feet or so to the disconnect box. The 20 feet outside will also be run under the deck in pvc. I would like to use 6/3 romex with the bare ground inside the house, as it would be easy to pull through the rafters, around a corner, and out through some cement block without too much difficulty. Plus, I was hoping to avoid having to conduit that 55 ft run in the basement. Again, once outside, I would use the separate #6 THWN wires in conduit to the disconnect. I would like to splice the 2 types of wire together in a junction box mounted (but accessible) on the outside wall under the deck. However, the ground wire for the 6/3 romex seems to be only about 10 gauge in size when looking at it at the store. Is that too small? Can I go from a 10 gauge ground in the romex inside the house to 6 gauge THWN ground which then runs to the disconnect box? Would I use a split bolt connector or something else? Thanks.
  13. The Story behind the tub. i purchased a balboa hot tub from a spa company in my city and this tub is a 1998. when i first set everything up they forgot to send me the pump so when i called them they couldnt find it and gave me a brand new ultra jet pump. when i wired everything up the lite leader board wasnt putting out the right voltage so i had to get it replaced. once i finally had everything said and done the problem im having is the following When i wired the pump up the diagram on the lite leader showed brn blu and blk going to pump as high low and common. and the wires that i have for my pump are black red and white. so finally i found a diagram on the internet for lite leader that had those 3 colors and i wired it up. the problem im having is when i first boot up the hot tub it begins heating with the pump on low speed. which is my understanding thats how it should be but unfortunately it wont heat up the tub past 80 degrees. but when i switch the high and low wire so that it heats with the pump on high it heats the tub to 104. the issue im having is that this will use much much more electricity. Anyone have any ideas on what could be going on? Any help is appreciated it!
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