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Showing results for tags 'water chemistry'.
Found 8 results
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I am having an issue and I'm hoping some water chemistry experts can chime in..., that at first I thought might have been white mold (even though it was a new spa), but tested and wasn't... resigned to it being hard water calcium flakes because I have been having white flakes floating all over the water that persists after water changes and a flush. But, after a recent water change I discovered that it isn't hard water, but in fact sealant used around the jets housing, lights, filter compartment, etc. that is crumbling. My spa also trips the breaker daily and i think this sealant, which is all in the plumbing, is causing the trips. I made a video so you can see what I'm talking about... The dealer is claiming chemical abuse of bromine and will not honor the warranty. My water chemistry is well maintained and always within range... my sanitizer is never too high and I've never done a super chlorination, yet they recommend one for this issue. Dealers I have spoken with have never seen the sealant come off like this and completely clog the plumbing as mine has. I'm wondering if someone can tell me if this is possible and how much bromine would really have to be used to cause something like this as they are saying it's a bromine issue. Even after shock, my levels only go up to around 10 at the highest then come back down to 3-4. I don't know what sealant they are using that a sanitizer at that level can destroy. Plus, they are also asking me to have the sealant (they are calling "white powder") tested and give them a chemical analysis of it. Crazy! Here's the video:
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Hello everyone, We bought a Caldera Geneva spa a few months ago and have been more than pleased with it. We also bought a drop test kit as recommended here. We started out on dichlor only but quickly ran into issues of high readings and potential over stabilization. As a result we switched to dichlor then bleach on our water change about 3 weeks ago. Got our CYA to 30-40ish based on measuring a fixed amount of dichlor the switch to plain 8.25% bleach. Bleach is added slowly with the the water running. Noticed today that the area where I normally add the bleach (in middle as much as possible but really over lounger) there is a rough patch. Worried I’ve damaged the shell from the bleach! I didn’t think this was possible, but maybe it settled there? Our water chemistry is as follows: CH about 100 TA: 40 pH: 7.5 and stable CYA: 40ish Any advice is welcome! I don’t want to switch back to dichlor but don’t want to risk damaging our new tub either. Thanks in advance.
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I'm running low on many of my test chemicals and while looking online I noticed they sell 16oz bottles. I'm sure this if for the pool/spa pros that use this stuff a lot on several pools/spas. I'm wondering though if these chemicals have a shelf life and if it would be ok if I bought these to use and to just keep the .75oz. bottles full that came with the kit. The droppers of the small bottles come right off and the bottle could be filled. All together buying the bigger bottles would cost me a little over twice as much as the smaller bottles but I would not have to buy test chemicals for years this way, as long as they don't expire. This forum has been a great asset for me in keeping my hot tub, and hopefully someone here will know the answer to this question. Thanks in advance. Josh
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Hi, Unfortunately, I found this website after I had already drained/filled my spa. I have been in contact with the rep at Aquaterra, the manufacturer of my spa, and went of his info to bal ance the water, but I am seriously questioning the info. I have a 300 gal. Aquaterra Vitale spa for which I sanitize with bromine granules and shock with MPS. Per his recommendation, I don't use a bromine floater as that was possibly the cause of needing to have a seal on the water pump/filter replaced as the spa was leaking. He stated bromine floaters are not recommended for my spa as they oversanitize and can damage the jets, pumps, etc. Per his instructions, I balance the water and then added my bromine and shock. I added 3 tsp of bromine granules and 3 Tbsp of MPS on Sat. 4/12. Everyday since I have been checking the water chem b/c I have now learned of the benefits of test kits vs. strips and I notice the bromine have been very low. I have added about 1 tsp per day on Sun. and today Mon. Also, after I used the spa on Sat. I added 1 tsp. of bromine as I was instructed to add 1 tsp. after I use it. Basically, my question is how do I balance the bromine so I don't have to keep checking it daily? Should I use a bromine floater, or is that the cause of premature seal and component wear? What do I do now for a bromine reserve? FYI, I have read and bookmarked Nitro's water maintenance post and also Waterbear's Bromine for Beginners post. I don't know who to follow, Nitro/Waterbear or the manufacturer rep. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Tx.
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We are going out of town for nearly 2 weeks. I am not sure what to do with our spa. We don't have a spa service. It's time to change our water anyway, but I am worried that if we drain the spa, any remaining water in the pipes will get moldy and gross. But we can't leave water in it without treatment for two weeks. Any suggestions on what to do while we are away? Thank you!
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How do I bring the total alkalinity up, without raising the ph? When I first fill my hot tub the ph is perfect (7.6) but the total alkalinity is somewhere between 20 and 30 (should be between 80-120)? I use alkalinity increaser, then my ph goes thru the roof. When I decrease the ph, down goes the alkalinity. I constantly have this yo-yo effect. Any suggestions?
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Thanks in advance for any insight you may have. I've been doing lots of reading in the forums, but am still confused. We're going to get a new hot tub / spa for use in a mountain house in Fraser, CO. Looking at smaller tubs, 250 - 350 gal. We will typically use the tub most weekends during the summer and ski season (2 adults and 2 kids), with occasional visits lasting a week and sometimes several months with no use at all (especially spring and fall). What sanitation approach and protocol would you recommend for this situation and would you suggest something different for the stretches where we may not be there for 6-10 weeks? Is a SWCG the way to go? -
Hi all, I am new to pools and how they work, but I am working on a project to design and build a testing device for measuring water quality and found out that pool owners constantly need to monitor the pool water. What kind of kits are out there right now? I understand there are test strips but many people dislike them, and they are not very accurate. Do you own these test kits? I talked to a pool store and they told me that they offer free testing to their customers, do you take advantage of this or would you rather prefer to do it yourself if there was a simple, quick and reliable way to do it. Have any of you used this phone app from LaMotte to test your pool water? I am just trying to find out how pool testing works, how you do it and what tools you use. Any comments and ideas are greatly appreciated!!